Fishwhittler

I would like to see more aftermarket parts available in the USDM. More lefty reels would be nice, as well. That's what happens in 2014. Due to exchange rate differences, Shimano will be forced to give the Citica G a graphite frame, use a lower bearing count in the Curado G, switch the Chronarch E to the G platform (while giving it a snazzy new coat of paint), and then the Core gets an aluminum frame in the 50/51. The Core 100 is phased out and replaced with the Core 200/201, also with an aluminum frame. The new Core also gets a two-tone gunmetal and black paint job. The new series is called the "H" generation, and is praised by diehard Shimano users for lowering prices on all models across the board.

J Francho, please do not shoot me for what I am about to say. (I'm going off-topic…) It's funny when you think about it: The Shimano Calais DC has possibly the most advanced braking system on the market and retails for $650. The Daiwa Steez costs $600 MSRP, and it's one of the best-known flagship reels for its lightness and refinement. Now Abu Garcia rolls out the MGXtreme, which will be the lightest metal-frame baitcast reel in the world. Why is Abu being bashed for trying to cut into the high-end reel market? The MGXtreme is .5oz lighter than a Steez or Abu's own MGX, and being at least a half-ounce lighter than any other reel on the market seems to me to be a pretty impressive feat that's worthy of a flagship reel. Whether or not the MGXtreme is worth $500 is up to each individual angler—nobody has to buy one. I probably won't because I can't afford that much for a single reel, but if someone else has the money and wants one, I hope they really enjoy it. Personally, I think the MGXtreme is a stunner in terms of cosmetics, though I wouldn't mind seeing a different color for the accents. Black and red is a trifle blasé, but the execution on the MGXtreme is well done. Maybe if they'd go with black and green, or black and purple, or something? Hint, hint…

The product specs say the MGX has the IVCB-IV braking system, and the MGXtreme has the IVCB-4. Looks to me as though they just decided to use arabic instead of roman numerals.

Have one. Used it last year. Like it much. Get one.

The differences are in the width, line capacity, and the clutch lever location. The 4600 has a thumb bar similar to low-profile reels, but the 5500 has a lever on the handle-side cover that takes the place of the thumb bar. It's a little less convenient than the thumb bar, that's all. Other than that, the 4600 weighs .6oz less than the 5500 due to the smaller size. The 4600 holds 160 yards of 30# braid as opposed to 205 yards of 30# braid for the 5500. I've got a 5501C3, which is the LH version of the 5500, and the spool is huge. You'll probably never need all of the line on your reel if you are fishing for bass, though if you were fishing for carp, stripers, or other large fish that make long, hard runs, I can see where the extra line capacity would be useful.

Based on the thousands of lure customizers doing exactly that, yes. I've never heard of a single case of anyone getting sued for repainting factory lures and selling them, and I'm pretty sure the big companies would have rooted out any such loophole long ago if one existed. It's the same with any kind of custom work, fishing-related or no: You are selling your work, not necessarily the product you customized. If such were not the case, companies such as Jann's Netcraft, Barlow's Tackle, Lure Parts Online, and other large suppliers of lure-making parts would not exist today.

What I'd try is putting a liquid polishing compound on the gears and cranking for an hour or two. I've tried toothpaste as well as polishing compound, but the toothpaste doesn't do anything the polish doesn't do better. I've had good results with Meguiar's PlastX polish. After the polish you'll have to clean off the gears with soap and water and a toothbrush before reinstalling.

The 5.1:1 BB1's are the only reels without the instant anti-reverse. Both the 6.4:1 BBHZ and 7.1:1 BB1SHZ versions have an AR bearing.

Is that the Speed Spin or the Speed Spool?

Some bearings have removable shields but not all. For example, the bearing shields on the Shimano Citica E are not removable though the shields on the Citica D were. Beats me as to why they changed, and I don't like the change. Look carefully at the bottom of the bearing in the pic below and you'll notice a darker area. There's a metal C-clip that holds the shields in place, and this can be removed by carefully inserting a sharp pointed object (such as a sharp fishhook or a dental pick) into that space and then sliding it between the clip and the bearing race. The shield can then be carefully lifted off the bearing using the same hook/pick. To replace, just place the shield on the bearing and slide the clip into place. Not all bearings will have this clip, and if you don't see it the shields cannot be removed. Also, if your bearing looks like the one below, the shields are permanent. I much prefer bearings with removable shields because they are easier to clean. However, I always replace the shields after flushing the bearing so as to keep contaminants out. I've not noticed any difference in how freely the bearings spin with the shields on or off. I've heard the Orange-Seal bearings can spin faster/longer with the shields removed, but I've no experience with them and can't say for certain. I hope this helps! Ben

Cheaper lures will catch fish, but you'll see far more issues with cheap lures not running straight or breaking. Suspending jerkbaits especially - cheaper ones will not always suspend the same. No lure really suspends perfectly, but the high-dollar ones will be much more consistent. Of the two "Springer 100" knockoffs of the LC Pointer I've got, one is a slow sinker and the other suspends or floats extremely slowly. I saw a pic once (on this forum, but that was years ago) where a guy took a bunch of the Springer 100 lures and put them in an aquarium together. Most ended up on the bottom, a few suspended, and the rest floated. That's par for the course with knockoffs. If you buy, say, ten Lucky Craft square-bill cranks and ten Strike King KVD cranks and compare them, the LC baits will all look nearly identical. The paint on the Strike King lures will have noticeable inconsistencies, and the lure bodies themselves will not all be put together with the two halves lined up. Take them out on the water and odds are you'll have to tune more of the SK lures than the LC's. As far as fish-catching, fish are far too finicky from one day to the next. Some days they'll hit one lure and others they want something completely different. It comes down to what each angler believes he/she is getting the most bang for their buck out of. The Megabass Vision 110 is extremely popular, but I couldn't say whether it will catch more or bigger fish than a $3 knockoff. I've heard far more complaints about Strike King® lures than lures from any other big-name company. I caught a lot of fish on the Red Eye Shad this year, but I know a lot of guys have had problems with them swelling up if left out in the sun. Broken lips, water entrance, untunable lures, those are all things that occur with a much higher frequency in cheaper lures. Plus, the high-end lures usually look better than cheap ones. I'm very susceptible to being "caught" by a lure with a well-executed build and finish. Take a gander at this one: [i was trying to post an image here, but this forum won't let me. Try this link instead.] No, I don't have one. Yes, I want one. Oh yeah, once you catch a fish on a lure you built/painted, you're a hopeless addict. You've been warned. Tight lines! Ben

Don't expect the KO's to perform like the originals. They are decent baits in their own right, but there's a reason Megabass jerkbaits command the price they do and a reason why the KO's sell for $2-3 apiece. I've tried a few of the more expensive KO's and they're very nice, for a $3 lure. If they charged $15 I'd laugh outright - they're not worth it. Look closely at a KO and see how many bubbles and other flaws are in the plastic, and then compare it with an original. The difference will be clear. I've got both the Lucky Craft Pointer 100 and the Jann's Netcraft Springer 100 copy of the Pointer and there's absolutely no mistaking which one is worth $15.

Actually, the C3 has a pair of "strip" springs in place of the coil springs prevalent in newer bait caster designs. The part is #22808 on the schematic below; I have no idea if this is the right model, but that part should be the same regardless of model. You might try bending the springs toward the spool to give them more springiness, but don't take it too far. http://www.mikesreel...500C3_99-10.pdf