A-Rob

I wish I didn't have to store my rods haha I usually support them so there is no lean in a rack or somehow. reels come off and drag and spool tension backed off cleaned and put back in their boxes. Then I cry.

I always used EWG hooks, but switched to 4/0 and 5/0 straight shank hooks. AWESOME switch. I increased my hooking percentage for sure. At first I wasn't happy with how high maintenance the straight shank was b/c my bait kept slipping down the shank, so.... I would get heat shrink wrap and make my own little bait keeper on the shaft. They have worked great for me, stick the bass nicely for me. Give them a try in your brush hogs.

Not exactly plastic but a Jig & Pig gets some big bites. 10" ribbontail worm? maybe they'd work for ya? I don't use swimbaits or other big big lures so won't talk on them.

Uni knot for any fluoro that I can cinch down (17# test and under) palomar for anything real heavy (20# test plus) as the line is too thick to cinch. My humble opinion.

spinning gear for me fast action or xfast.

I've fished with a trailer hook on my spinnerbait. I was fun fishing and actually killed a couple bass b/c they were hitting the main hook and the trailing hook ripped up their gills. If I'm fun fishing I won't ever use a trailer hook. I rarely ever feel like I'm missing fish with it anyways. Maybe in a tourney if the fish were missing the main hook I'd throw it on. I'd probably switch to a crankbait before I put a trailer on tho.

uni knot for lines that cinch down (0-17#) palomar for line that wont cinch (20# and up) Shaw Grigsby shows a good way to cinch down the Palomar so you don't burn your fluoro and weaken it.

1. Spinnerbait 2. Frog 3. Jig (4. 10" worm) In no specific order

I am picky about the frogs I use. I like Spro over Snagproof b/c I don't like how much plastic is in front of the hooks. I find the Spro hooks are easier to grip. I like a rod with backbone but some tip to it. I use a stiff MH on my lakes (moderate junk, not heavy like the deltas). So when the bass hits I can let it eat that frog b/c the tip will give and the rod will load. I only set the hook when the rod loads. That's when the backbone comes in to play. I use braid all the time fishing frogs, that helps stick 'em to.

I have 6 or 7 combos. I did my first tournament and remember re-tying lures to the combo, by the time I got rigged up we were in a different spot and I'd tie something else up etc etc. My boater said "I don't re-tie, I just pick up a different rod" Couple hundred dollars later I was doing the same hahaha.

citica would be my choice in that price range.

Thats a nice benefit of braid, I do that as well.

7'0 MH is what I use, great for the moderate junk I fish. It's no California delta. I feel I could go with a longer rod, but can't transport it in my truck anymore. I wouldn't go heavier for my area tho. 7'0 MH is perfect for me. I think Dean Rojas uses a 7'0-7'6" MH rod for most of his frog fishing he said in an article....mind you some MH are heavier than some H actions

I use Spiderwire Stealth and Power Pro I like them both and they don't gunk up your reel like some of the lines.

The same person could probably also explain why red line disappears, but red hooks attract. haha good point

J knot

brand of your choice, whatever feels good in your hands. But I like 7'0 MH baitcasting rods b/c I find them the most versatile.

I've always wondered why we use dark lures in dirty water b/c they cast a better silhouette and the bass can see it....yet we want our line to be less visible to the fish...so we want it to stay dark green? I would prefer my dark green braid to fade a bit, I don't mind that. A white silhouette is tougher for a fish to see as it floats above them compared to a black. Anyone got an explanation?? p.s. not all vegetation is dark green, it has different shades, so a lighter green line is still camouflaged to the vegetation

Maybe Zoom doesn't pay them enough to say they won a tourney on them haha

I use the red eye shad in 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 oz sizes. I just change up the weight depending on the depth. I use the trebles that come on it for the most part, they're decent VMC hooks I think? If they dull out I change them, can't afford KVD's hooks they're expensive! I toss that lure out, wind it in, rip it off the grass whatever. I usually spazz a bit b/c I can never clear the grass from the hooks, they usually just rip the top half of the weed from the bottom and 1 hangs on the entire time to my lure haha. I caught some nice fish tho on it. Fish it on a MH David Fritts Glass American rodsmith rod, 7'0. Shimano Citica reel, 15# Fluorocarbon. I get smallies trailing it a lot but not striking the lipless cranks. I usually just toss a senko out after and pick them up so it calls them in for me and works out great. That's everythign i know on this topic...everything haha

I fish this one Lizard from a local tackle shop made by Josh's Lures or something, 6" big. But it comes in this wicked black/purple color and holds up good. Perfect for pitching scattered structure for me.

I think I heard Boyd Duckett saying he won the Classic with a chigger or crazy leg chigger craw. I wish I won the classic.

I enjoy using watermelon (clear water) and junebug (darker water) 10" worms on deeper structure in the summer when the water is warmed up. If things are clear and you want to go more subtle, Zoom Mag II worms are awesome for a smaller profile worm that's still big enough...it's perfect for me. Maybe worth a try. I find the worm is underutilized....but it's a nice contrast to a crankbait and bass usually eat a worm. KVD throws it after cranking an area he said in an article I had.

I agree with Roadwarrior. That is a good 3 rig setup. I really like my 7'0 MH baitcasting rods. You can do most everything with that one rod. I use a 7 MH rod for pitching jigs, frogs, spinnerbaits, swimjigs, big worms, other soft plastics (even senkos). It is a pretty solid all around rod. I do have several of these similar rods of course hahaha I use different lines and reels for the different applications, but only b/c I'm addicted.

1st off, awesome post...I will always take time from work to organize my rigs hahaha. 1. Pitching Stick: 7'0 MH Daiwa Procyon. Shimano Curado 200E7. 65# braid. Jigs and T-rigged craws 2. Frog Rod: 7'0 MH Daiwa Procyon. Shimano Citica 200E. 50# braid. Buzzfrog, spro frog, or swim jig depending on the conditions. 3. Worm Rod: 6'10 Fenwick HMG. Shimano Cruxis 200. 17# Fluoro. 10" worms or spinnerbait depending on the conditions (and if I bring my crappy Spinnerbait rig). 4. Cranking Stick: 7'0 MH American Rodsmith David Fritts Glass. 12-15# Fluoro. All kinds of crankbaits. 5. Spinnerbait Rod: 6'6 MH Berkley something or rather with a crappy bass pro reel that has lasted forever and will not give up. 15# mono. (I've won tournaments with this rig haha I can't believe it). 6. Spinning Rig: 6'10 MH Rapala R-Type. Shimano Sahara. 15-20# braid with 12# fluoro leader. Senkos or finesse worms. 7. Spinning Rig2: 6'6 M Shimano Sojourn. Shimano Sahara. 15# braid with 8-12# fluoro leader. Drop Shot. I've got enough to cover my bases....but I still spend $$ upgrading hahaha.