George Welcome

If bass had ears that functioned like humans, the ping of a sonar is quite loud. Since sound travels so much faster in the water if they did hear like us you would have spooked them long before you got near them. "The speed of sound in water is much faster than in air. It does depend a little on your water - fresh vs salt, cold vs warm, pressure - but it is much faster in all conditions - in the neighborhood of 3200 mph or 1400m/s. We can hardly push things through air (at sea level) at those speeds. The fastest bullets reportedly have an initial velocity about 1500m/s." However, since confidence is a major factor in this sport of ours you need to do what you feel is best.

Let's talk about tipping: Tipping is neither required or expected, but it is most certainly appreciated. I have to take my wife out to dinner once in a while! Tipping tells me that the customers thought I did an outstanding job that day. Let's talk about the guides job: The first part is to make you feel at home and maintain safety throughout the day. The second part would be to find the fish and show you how to catch them. The third would be to give instruction that you desire. The fourth would be to keep the trip upbeat throughout the day. The fifth would be to give you the full day of fishing that you expect to include boat management so that you are able to fish throughout the day. To be able to do all the above it is important that the guide truly know the lake they are fishing intimately. This requires a constant and fulltime presence on the lake. Things to watch out for: Part time guides - they are probably in the buisness to make boat payments and not in it for the the long haul. Guides who claim to fish multiple lakes - It's hard enough to know one lake well enough, let alone 3 or 4. Guides who don't provide a method of selecting your own references - hand fed references aren't worth a bunch. Guides who insist on the misguided premise that live bait is the only way to go. The are times and places for live bait, but live bait is not the end all way to catch quantity or quality. These are all red flags, but they are not your final consideration. Your final consideration should be made when actually talking with the guide to determine if you are compatible. A big concern when hiring a guide should be safety! Is the equipment adequate to keep you safe and get you back to the ramp if the weather turns sour? I have heard stories of guides drinking while having clients out on the water - would you feel safe with a half drunk guide? I have heard stories of guides carrying fire arms on the boat - would you really feel comfortable with a stranger carrying firearms? I have heard stories of guides getting in arguments with other boaters on the water - would you feel comfortable with a guide who has a lack of temperment control? A good guide keeps the day fun! A good client knows that fishing is far more than just catching, and participates in the day of fun.

If all you are looking for is local knowledge, go to a bait shop, don't hire a guide. If you are looking for an educational and productive trip then expect the guide to fish. That doesn't mean the you will be front boated as any guide that is worth anything is an expert at handling the boat to keep you in the zone. Also, bear in mind that not all fishing is the same. If I was taking a trip for trout I would expect to be shown productive eddies and such, not to have the guide ****** the trout that is sitting there. Trout and bass are nothing alike. If I was going muskie fishing I would expect the guide to be handling the boat, not grabbing the rod that gets hit. Muskies and bass are not the same. If I am going for saltwater fish such as reds I would expect the guide to be pointing out the reds to cast to, not catching them. Saltwater fish and bass are not the same. If I am on a bass trip I want the guide showing me that the fish are there, not just pointing a finger and telling me that they are. As for fishing by invitation: sounds to me like you are on your boat and not the guide's boat. Somewhere you got lost in who owns the boat and who is the guest. As a guide's client you hired his expertise, you didn't buy his boat. As a guide I run the show. I tell you when, where, and suggest how, which is what people pay me to do. If you don't want that kind of advice then it is probably best that you charter a boat. As I previously stated: talk with a guide about your expectations and desires. If your not in agreement than move on to someone that agrees with you. As someone said, bass fishing changes by hour, by day, and by week. If he isn't fishing than how is he going to know what is going on. Are some of you suggesting that he rely on your fishing skills? If that is what he is doing than you didn't need to hire him in the first place. To be disappointed in your decision to hire a guide if neither of you caught fish tells me that you haven't done much bass fishing. There will be those days, although rare and far between that the fish just won't cooperate no matter what. You may be disappointed, but probably not as much as any good guide is, but to blame him if he worked throughout the day is flat out rediculous. So, that's the philosophy of an extemely successful and busy guide. PS: Out of thousands of trips that I have done, I have only had one client ask me not to fish. After three hours of fairly non-productive fishing he asked that I show him that fish were in the area. We went on that day to catch in excess of 70 fish including his long sought after 10+ pound bass. We did that with the same bait, and never left the same area. He just needed some demonstrated coaching. Monkey see, monkey do is an outstanding way to learn.

The dam is off limits for safety reasons just like every other dam is just about anywhere. I would suggest that he is only one of probably many that fish the dam. Don't take it so personal. If he wants to risk endangering himself let him and the authorities worry about it. I doubt that the Military really cares, but rather has it posted for the same reasons as all dams are posted; Safety and lawyers. However, you might mention it to someone at the base if it has you really concerned.

Costas seem to costa lot but nothing compared to what it will costa you in loss of vision later in life from not protecting your eyes. If you want to protect your eyes, see into the water, and look stylish then the costa Costas will seem to costa you a small amount.

The assumption is being made in this thread that bass see what we do and have the ability to discriminate colors. It's too big of an assumption. Spend some time researching: Look to find out how many controlled research projects about bass eyesight have been done, and look closely to see if they were scientific or assumptive. Is it you that the bass sees, or is it your footfall and the consequential vibration of the ground that the bass feels that makes them run? Next time you have a bass in your hand, look at the pupil of the eye and with shading see if you can get the pupil to change. Someone could write a book about this sight stuff. Oh, I think someone already did, but you have to sort the truth from fiction, and once you do you will come to the conclusion: Bass do not have eyes that function as a human's eyes do. Wearing special clothing to fish is not going to change your productivity. Walking slowly and quietly will affect your productivity, as will casting skill and recognizing those shoreline areas likely to hold bass and casting to them before you are standing on them.

Carolina rig bite = plastics bite I see this question frequently and if is a common one asked by my clients. The C-Rig bite is the same as any other bite that comes with the use of plastics. There is the smash and run - There is the pick up and sit, (increased pressure) - There is the pick up and swim towards you, (suspicious but not sure). As with any method of of plastic fishing the simple rule is: If it feels different hit it. If you have fished plastics using any type of method, look for the same thing from the C-rig. The hits are going to be the same. Of course, key to this whole topic would be, are you using a C-rig, or someone's modified idea of a C-rig. For example: pre-packaged C-rig, (weight sliding a short distance on metal wire), aren't a C-rig at all. Weight crimped on the line is not a C-rig at all. A C-rig is comprised of: bait on hook, then leader, then swivel, then bead if you want, then some form of slip weight. Since the line moves through the weight freely if you stay in contact with the bottom with the weight, and stay in contact with your line as you move the bait, then you will feel the bait get picked up without a problem.

Let's get it straight: Senko - Kinami Only the packaging is different!

Tidal fishing: Yes, the moon affects the tides, but the tides relate to salt water access-egress. Lakes don't have tides. You can out-science yourself quite easily with this bass fishing thing.

Everybody should take a moment to say hi to Avid because his path that he follows when there is a storm is what kills people here in Florida every year. He could definitely be the next statistic we have down here. It should be real easy for everyone on this subject.

Backing up Glenn's response: Structure is impenetrable. Cover is penetrable

From the bottom: Kreatures make excellent C-rig bait. The lindy makes an excellent weight especially in heavier greass. Depending on cover you are fishing the bait can be Texposed or hook buried. The action and coverage makes the rig an excellent search rig, and once the fish are found a deadly presentation. Move the bait with the rod, not the reel. Put the c-rig into a swimming pool with some items that create obstructions for your weight and watch the action. Simple physics make this bait a large are coverage bait. (physics: action-reaction)

Secondary points are all points in coves and inlets. Any point is a restriction of the water, which will accelerate water movement: (Bernouli principle) when it is present, whether by wind or current. Increased current equals a great place to hang. As previously noted, add cover and you have an almost irresistible place for the bass to hang with their mouths open.

Pay to fish lakes have been around a long time. It was not uncommon at all back in the 60-70's. The owner of the property kept the place stocked and most areas were catch and release. It was far more common with trout locations than any other. Places such as Bienville Plantation do quite well in this day and age, specializing and bass. They off package deals such as lodging, food, and fishing.

another: www.micromunchtackle.com

Beautiful place, beautiful fish.

Where is the lake?

Pre-rigs: the package may call them a pre-rigged Carolina rig, but they are not. A Carolina rig is comprised of a hook, leader, swivel, (bead if you want), and a free running weight. On the pre-rigs the weight is not free running. The pre-rigs are a gimmic that is not as called. The bead came into being because the lead weight tends to close up with the beating that it takes when being dragged. As the lead became out of round the hole would close and the edges would get sharp with the warpage. The lead would then have a tendency to cut the line at the knot, hence the bead. It is also used to add color, and some believe noise. With the brass weights and the Tungsten weights, you will not have any warpage of the hole. How many of those fish that you think you missed where actually holding onto the weight and beads? I consider the hardware an attractant so my rig is set up: #10 swivel and Tungsten or brass weight with no bead.

Star Brite Hull cleaner and a tooth brush will take care of it if the rust is light. If there is visible pitting then get rid of them.

Where are you looking for a map of?

There is no question that the trap can be one of the best producer during these hot times. The bass are feeding in the AM and in the PM on shad. If the shad don't hit the surface they will be just below and the bass know it.

One of the good things to know would be where you are fishing. However, the more than likely is the deeper and the shaded. Down sizing could make the difference, but I would think slower would be the more correct solution. Also, search that deeper water for some form of cover and fish the opposite side of the sun. I am assuming that you are fishing from a boat. Dock pilings make perfect areas of shelter from the sun, so when you are targeting those docks get in tight to the pilings.

My location gives me access to both salt and fresh water, and if we do salt water fishing, the circle hook is the only way. Unfortunately with the larger golden shiners the circle hook doesn't work as well. However, for the smaller baits such as minnows they would definitely be the way to go.

Doing it better: Here's a few tips - 1. Hooking - very important for what you want to have the shiner do. If you want surface activity the hooks should be placed just before or aft of the dorsal fin. Be careful not to go too deep. Before the fin pulls the shiner upward as they swim away, and aft the fin will pull them up even quicker. If you want the shiner to swim normal hook them through the bottom lip and out one of the nostrils. If you want the shiner to swim down and forward hook them just aft of the anal fin and forward of the anal opening. Unless you are in heavy weeded areas or very woody areas get rid of the float and fish them free-lined. If there is current present, (an ideal situation), consider adding a split weight or even Carolina rig them to keep them down in the column. Hooking: There always has to be the tough part to any technique and with shiners this is definitely the hard part. You must have a straight line between you and the fish. Any bow or loose line will translate to a miss. Sometimes you get lucky and the bass will accomodate this by swimming directly away, but this doesn't occur always. Many times they will swim back towards you and when this happens you have to reel to the fish. You cannot sneak up on a bass Any nudge before the hookset and the bass will spit the bait. If you have to reel, reel quickly until you have that straight line and then set. (This timing takes practise) The other key to successful shiner fishing is to be patience. Whether using a float or free-lined remember that the bass has to actually have the shiner positioned so that your hookset is made when the hook is in their mouth. Just because the float goes down, or the shiner starts getting pulling doesn't mean this is so. Give the bass a chance to position the bait properly and even then take your time. Use the proper hook for the shiner size: Kahle hooks work best and result in the least gut hooks. Learn to remove hooks if they do get gut hooked through the gills!!!!!

Since you have a chart, looking for structure has been solved. Follow the basic steps and look for a pattern by answering the following: How does the season affect bass where you will be fishing. What is the weather pattern where will you be fishing and what effect could you expect this pattern to have at this time. What other factors could affect the above factors? One that occurs on most lakes was given and that is that early AM shallow water bite. Another item given which can alter the above factors is areas of inflow. A lake in a mountainous region can be affected at inflow areas for days after a period of heavy rain. Once you have determined where and the prescence of fish try to determine the pattern within the pattern. For example on a main lake point did you find the fish on the lee or windward side of the point. Also look for a pattern of technique. Work through your various baits slowly to determine if there is a preference there. If you have been successful with finding the pattern and the fish then look for the identical scenerio to occur when all things are identical. Same structure, same depth, etc.