SWMIBASSER

Agreed with the post above boat owners manuals are incredibly generic

Not always. The cheapest reels I've owned were the most reliable and by far longest lasting

Considering the budget, how it'll be used and the HP you are looking at I would be looking at a 16-17ft TILLER deep V. Casting deck up size up front, as well as storage can be more than adequate with an extension. The rest of the boat will be wide open.

You said you will fish and camp for 3-4 days. How do you think that will influence your boat decision. I'm just curious as I haven't noticed that mentioned in a thread about choosing boats.

Can you use any size hook listed in the mold description for any of the head sizes? For instance if the mold is listed as for 1/4,3/8,1/2 oz and the hooks listed as 2/0, 3/0, and 4/0 can I use a 4/0 hook in the 1/4pz head? Ill call netcraft tomorrow if they are open but thought maybe I could get an answer before then

Well considering they fish top of the line stuff and things are updated regularly it probably isn't stretching that much to say "this is the best". Now I don't see Quantum competing with shimano especially on the higher end stuff but they may have gone the extra mile to provide them with things they felt made things much better. Its not unreasonable to think they could have received new reels with modifications already in place. I don't know maybe I'm just rambling in his defense at this point. I know I would be willing to switch to dewalt tools and promote them for free tools and $$ for the work I do. I use Milwaukee and feel like their tools are superior but business is business

A lews LFS reel, a fly tying vise for tying jig skirts, a pour pot for pouring my own jig heads/DS weights etc and a few Bandit cranks. And a pair of Ariat jeans.... She did good!!

I've been out of this for long enough that I'm basically starting over. I need to put my boat together and rebuild a collection of rod and reels

I did a quick search and didn't find if this is a welded or riveted boat

I couldn't agree more. A dual cable system and a hydraulic system are both NOT the way to fix the issue. Now if you really want the hydraulic system because they are nice, because they are, nothing wrong with that either. I just wouldn't spend that kind of money on that unless I was keeping the boat for awhile.

where are you located?

2) Just buy a new cable helm assembly shop around though some places are much cheaper than others for the same product 3) Just make sure you remove and replace water logged foam. Rotten floors usually mean wet foam

Hmmmm This is a new motor.. My mistake So I'm curious how the steering actually compares to cable steering Edit: Ugh. After reading about it more I realize I just need to win the lotto to afford all the new tech

The point I was trying to make is that a Terrova offers the same spot lock and anchor features among others, for less money

WAY to expensive for me. So I may be biased with ***. With that said the updated ipilot on other models is supported to be more accurate than when it first came out. Ipilot is available on the powerdrive v2 and the Terrova. The Pd has a different mount and pedal and it's not for everyone but as far as I can tell the ultrexx and Terrova are the same motor minus the power trim and stow

There is a video of this on YouTube. Super simple if I remember right. Just reversing two wires for right/left. I intended to do this on my boat actually. I'm going to shorten the shaft on a used power drive and install it on the transom of my 17'Vhull along with a Maxxum up front

Well because of how the thread is going I'll say my super short top priority list is stability room to move FOR ME that boils down to a boat big enough that I can walk side to side and front to back without feeling like I'm going to fall out or over. Stable while standing and only moving enough to cast isn't stable enough for me I would rule out everything under 15-16ft the only reason I can see using anything smaller is for towing purposes (not a good reason) or because access is limited severely and a bigger boat won't fit. In the case of towing some REALLY small cars even can tow a bigger boat than you think. If access is that limited that you NEED a 12ft boat then you don't need a "bass boat" I would be looking for an old 16-18ft Starcraft V-hull to build from if I were you The other thing is like others have said your particular requirements may vary compared to mine. FWIW I'm building a boat now after a long long hiatus. 17' 78" wide Conveted to tiller with a 75 Evinrude a long front deck with two flip up "jump seats" at the end. And a drop in deck extension for the back when absolutely necessary Ive got tons of ideas and could go on for pages

The old Pro Lites were the best reel for the $$ hands down. No comparison. And that was at list price, not on sale. If they picked up more line I would have bought and used them exclusively.

Sponsor money enables more and more skilled guys to make their way into the Classic. Technology, and information has enabled the development of skills. I think someone who dominates in this day and age would make the guys who were good 20+ years ago look down right foolish. I hope to never see any sort of "greatest" tag ever applied to Rick Clunn again.

I just can't possibly fathom how it is even debatable who the greatest bass fisherman of all time is. Not only does he have 4 classics now, but he is doing it in a time when sponsor money, and technology has upped the skill well beyond what the old guys fished against.

In my opinion, those techniques require different rods.... A little shorter, and faster rod for shakey heading and longer and slower rod for drop shotting....If you have to pick one, buy the rod that works best for what you do the most. Shakey or D/S

It is their job...... If you were offered a raise at your job, would you turn it down?

Again, they were with Quantum for much longer than Shimano.

I wouldn't worry about cutting weight on an S. It's just not money well spent. Lighter spool fine.. The older premier uses a lighter handle with no bearings, no bearings in the levelwind, aluminum screws, lighter spool....Basically every part in it, except the frame, and palm plate is lighter. You can't use the 24lb drag of an S with the older Duralumin gears. (maybe it's possible on the newer gears but I can say for sure) Reason being the main gear doesn't have the machined notches for the keyed drag plate. You can however add a carbontex washer to below the main gear. The stock Abu round reel washer fits and works perfect....You can also add a second drag plate, and washer....Still not the drag of an S, SX, or STX, but much better than the stock Premier.

Maybe there is a bearing that will match up with the regular supreme knob, and the XT shaft.