cadman

Siebert sells Arky jigs and they skip better than a brush jig. The flatter bottom glides really well on the surface of water and you can trim the skirt strands where they lay on the bottom of the jig to glide even better.

My jigs and a Netbait Paca chunk, wouldn't fish without them.

Grizzn Like mentioned throw the hooks out and replace with new. On the blades, if they are brass blades with a nickle finish, you can polish them out with some jeweler's rouge and a buffing wheel. You can also try rubbing compound followed by wax polish. Less abbrasive would be toothpaste. Now all this depends on how bad the rust is. if the nickle plating is throughj to the brass, you won't be able to polish this out except to re-plate. Finally also depends on how much time you want to spend. In all honesty, find someone to sell you som new blades, a lot cheaper in the long run.

Ben, Just some honest information here. If you have never poured lead before, I would suggest you be very very careful. Lead does burn and even the smallest splashes cause 3rd degree burns. So make sure you are paying attention to what you are doing. Although making your own jigs is fun and all, pouring the lead part is extremely dangerous. Don't take it for granted. One wrong step and you will get seriously burned. I'm not trying to scare you but it is what it is. The best way to learn how to pour is from someone that is already knowledgeable in this. Please be safe.

Ben, If you call up Do-It, they will send you a free jig mold catalog. In this catalog, they have all of their molds that they currently sell with the appropriate hook that the mold was originally made for. Another better source would be to go on Barlow's website, and when you find your mold, they will tell you every hook that will fit in that mold. It is an excellent source of information on molds and hooks.

Don, If you are trying to copy this jig for personal use only then fine. If you intend on copying it and then selling some than I strongly advise against it. If this is some companies jig that they currently make and sell on the market, than I would not do this. You will get sued. No-one wants their ideas stolen from them. Just some friendly advice.

Ben, Here is the deal on these molds. I have all of the Do-it molds, so I am 99% that I am correct. Weedless Football Jig $33.99 is Do-It's cross reference ##3318 model FBW-4-AF , 4 cavity mold 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 oz.This mold accepts aberdeen hooks. Aberdeen hooks are meant to be bent and rebent if they get stuck. It is a weedless jig, that accepts a weedguard. If you are looking for a more versatile "Bass" foot ball jig buy the one below. Weedless Football Jig II $39.99 is Do-It's cross reference ##3434 model FBB-4H-AFM , 4 cavity mold 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 oz.This mold accepts two styles of hooks. Mustad #32786 (regular hook eye) and Mustad #32798 (flat eye). Both hooks are 60 degree. Also this mold will take a wide variety of other hooks along with different brands. It is a weedless jig, that accepts a weedguard. I strongly recommend this mold as it has a lot of flexibilty. Pm me I have some better pricing info for you to look into.

Definitely Jika rig, for the additional movement without doing much.

Wow, this is vary vague. Is this for school project or are you trying to come up with an idea for customization? If this is a school project, then I would suggest going to BPS, buy a spinnerbait and carefully dis-assemble it. The cost to make one will be way too expensive if you go component by component, because no-one sells just one of everything. I can explain to you how to make one from scratch, component by component, just PM me your e-mail.

Nothing wrong with trying. If you don't try you'll never know. I try not to follow the crowd on many things line was one of them. I didn't buy fire line or spider wire or anything else and always thought I was missing out. Until last year when I bought Power Pro braid. Just plain didn't like it and was disappointed. However some guy turned me on to Paca Chunks versus some of the other baits I used to use, and now my quantity of fish has doubled along with some bigger fish thrown in. So the moral is you never know unless you try.

What is the original paint on the jig head? Is triple thick an epoxy? I never heard of it so I can't comment on it. If you use epoxy, depends on what you use it will run. Some nail polish with its acetone base will soften paint, and will make it worse before better. I apply epoxy with a brush. I am really confused by all of this that you are doing and not familiar with this process. Are you making these jigs from scratch? If so a step by step explanation would help on how you go from a raw jig to the final finish and what specifically are you having problems with.

iabass8, Based on reading his description of how he puts his glitter on, it looks like he puts on the epoxy and covers the jig with fine glitter. I can't tell from his jig pics about his process, however if I had the jig in my hand I could tell you right away. There are several ways of applying glitter to a jig. If the jig is powder painted you can apply the glittered clear and then bake. You can also clear coat the jig with epoxy and sprinkle it on however, depending on the epoxy, it will sag and run, you can mix the glitter in the epoxy and then apply or you can spray it on with a spray can, and then clearcoat. Again it may run. I choose to powder paint the jig and then put on a glitter coat with a clear and then a clear epoxy coat to protect that if you want durability. I am confused by this statement "using triple thick to dip the jig head in" and "They are currently drying for 24 hours and then I need to coat them." Can you elaborate on these two statements you made and maybe I can help you further?

Does anyone know if Netbait sells bulk plastics????

Road Warrior, I didn't want to suggest that he charge for shipping, and really didn't know how to put it down in words without it sounding like he is trying to sell his plastic, which I'm sure this is not the case. Maybe a better way to put it is to state free plastic bait to the first (# of members) that sign-up.

I have used mono all my life, switched over to Power Pro last year and I didn't like it. This year back to big game or XL, and going to try the Yo-zuri first thing.

Just from past experience, you may want to state to the first 10 or so members, and members must pay return shipping or something like that. The reason for this is that you may get 100 + members that will sign up and want free plastic baits. Then you will have to make all of this and pay for all the shipping out of your own pocket. I don't want you to get taken advantage of. Moderators if you don't feel this is right you can delete my post. Turner I would like to test your baits, however I will not get on the water for another 2-3 weeks. Also I will pay for the shipping to my house. If this will work for you, PM me and we will discuss the details. This is just my opinion on this subject.

Rooster, Since Smalljaw replied, he was the person I was going to recommend to you if and when you want to get into airbrushing your weights. He does some incredible jigs and spinnerbaits with his paint process. We all develop a technique that works for each of us. You will develop your own things that work well for you also.

Just a few pointers for a beginner: This would solve half of your problems. #1 Do not use a candle or a lighter. Candles and lighters give off black soot as you have noticed. Neither one of them is a good source for even heat on the initial heat up and then on the re-heat. So either use a heat gun or a propane torch. Both of these will work just fine. Remember that either one of these will melt a jig head if kept too long in the heat. #2 Always fluff your powder paint whether you are dipping or swishing. If you are not using a fluid bed, then you will have to fluff every 2nd or third jig. #3 If you are only applying 2 colors. The first base color should be applied to the entire jig, unless you are trying to apply a lighter color over a darker color. The first color will always give the second color something to grab onto as far as something like a primer. On the second coat always heat through thoroughly, so you can get both paints to cross-link, and you will get a smooth even transition between them both. #4 In applying the second color, the jig with the first color has to be hot. Then either dip it quickly in the powder paint or use a brush to tap on the second color. If you want to use the brush, just keep on tapping more powder until you've covered it all. Once you've done this heat through. #5 You can also apply powder paint via a special airbrush. I am not an expert on this, however if you need a name to ask questions about this . PM me. #6 Finally all of this will take some time. Practice makes perfect, and I'm not talking about 10 minutes a day. So once you put in some time, you will see better results. This should give you a start in powder painting.

I sent you an e-mail

I have never heard of them, so I can't comment on the quality. However I get industrial stock colors of powder paint for $7/lb, so they aren't the cheapest if you are looking for price.

traps and then jigs

Net Bait Paca Craw line-up all the way

Tackle Warehouse, Bass pro

Spinning gear for me as well.

I received your PM and do understand. Let me know when you're ready and if you have any other questions. PM sent.