SirSnookalot

If the bite were really bad I might put a senko on, something I've done maybe 2-3 times in the last 12 months. Quite often I start off with a roostertail, not a bad fish catcher at all won't go skunk too often. On some of the toughest days I 'll go to a top water, may not catch much but sometimes I surprise my self with a really nice fish.

Best time to do it, you can check the backbone of your rod at the same time, nothing like killing 2 birds with 1 stone. If you're worried just rinse the lure off when you're done.

I back off after each outing, once in a while I forget. Resetting is just routine, takes a second and it's done, I know where I want my drag to be set. Scale necessary, sure if you're fishing the outer banks for wicked tuna, other than that feel works just fine.

It probably doesn't make much difference in performance what you buy in the $100 range. They all are fairly smooth and have a more than adequate drag, what else a small spinning reel needs to provide I don't know. With that being said when I look for a reel it's how it feels on the rod, clearance when cranking (bail doesn't hit your knuckles) and handle style, I personally favor a paddle style or t.

I have not noticed loops being created during the cast when the line comes off perfectly straight from the spool. When I do have a loop it's generally on a lighter set up when get a little negligent in not insuring my line is tight before reeling my lure in. In other words the loop is on the spool before I cast. I deal with spinning gear only.

I've been seeing chiropractors over 40 years along with full body stretching. I had some pretty good ones back in Detroit that kept me in check, I had problems due to my occupation. This problem is something I have never experienced before, after many years of search for a good chiro in Fla I think I finally found one. I am responding to 3 times a week treatment flexibility has improved but pain is still there. It's 3 steps forward and 2 back. The very best chiropractor I ever met it this man in Lake Chapala Mexico http://www.chapalaclub.com/2010/06/they-scoffed-when-she-told-them-a-holistic-doctor-at-lake-chapala-diagnosed-her-with-leukemia-but-then-they-tested-her/ Not only was his adjustment fantastic but he diagnosed a blood infection just by feeling my back. Of course my MD. in Detroit thought he was a quack util he ran a blood test, the infection was true. Giving a thought about hopping on plane to fly down there if things don't improve.

I'm fortunate enough to be able to buy pretty much what I want. I wouldn't spend $40 on a lure let alone $250. I'm not on this big lure bandwagon for reasons other than expense. My freshwater fishing is not conducive for larger swimbaits, don't want to use the required rod size to launch those bigger baits for what I consider smaller fish. Sure a 8-10# bass is a great bass and a nice trophy but it's still only 10#. As a recreational fisherman there for just the fun of it, I can catch bass in that size range on lighter gear, I find that to be more fun. Even a 5-6# bass on a ul or light power rod is pretty darn good in my book. I do toss some 2-3oz lures for species that can easily exceed 10 pounds, my success rate is no better than if I were using a 3/4 oz bucktail for a few bucks or a jerk shad on a jig head. The bigger bait serves 1 purpose for me, that's just to do something different, it's not a big fish guarantee for me.

Fishermen can be gullible, always looking for the next magic bullet.

The Walmarts have gone down hill since I moved to South Florida, it used to be pretty fair. I still can buy what I need to catch both fresh and saltwater fish, just a smaller selection. I was in Yuma Arizona last week, the Walmart there was terrible. I had my own reel and salt water lures with me but I needed a rod, couldn't find anything decent, Sports Authority was even worse. I did buy at Walmart an Ugly stick 6' med/hvy $40 and went freshwater striper fishing, sold it to a guy on the bank for 20 bucks.

I would if I were catching fish worth $250, then I'm breaking even.

What's been killing me this year is the southeast wind every single day. That wind brings in a ton of seaweed, much of matted, makes fishing difficult. The southeast wind does not promote bait like a northeast wind, there just isn't a lot of fish around now. This has been my worst fishing season ever down here. I just got back from Arizona/California/ Mexico, 105-110 everyday and it was humid a few days. Humid or not I felt much better there physically than I do here in South FLA, probably less bothered by allergies.

I watched a video just now, had no idea what they were. At least in the video the loops got straightened out, whether that's the case in real life application I don't know. More important is not to have the loops in the first place, my sop is to always raise my rod so my line is tight, no loops before I start reeling. Wind knots can be cause by a few factors, one of them is when the braid hits the first guide when the line comes off the spool very fast, with the microwave there still is a larger first guide with a small one inside. With hard snap cast the line still will hit the first guide, may or may not eliminate wind knots. I tend to make long flowing casts keeping the line coming off the spool too fast. I've changed brands of my braid, wind knots have been a thing of the past. Weight is of no issue to me, a little more less no big deal. I'm an old school kind of guy, all I need is for the line to pass thru guides and the guides don't corrode. I might buy a rod that had them, wouldn't pay an extra nickle to put them on an existing rod.

I know why I use leaders. I can break a lure off from a snag easier. I can also break a fish off if it's too big to land or I don't want to tire it out any more. Braid getting wrapped around a treble hook is time consuming to unravel, leader is much easier. A shortish leader provides just enough stretch, I get a better hook set. I use up less braid tying leaders on.

2 opinions. Is the FG knot useless, no but I don't need it. I haven't found I need anything stronger than an Albright, Alberto or a Bristol. Doing quite a bit of saltwater fishing I put a fresh leader on for each outing, wear and tear isn't an issue. I leave my freshwater leaders on quite a while before I change, no wear tear there either and I don't always check them. My knot only needs to be slim enough to go thru the guides and if there is a problem it's only the top guide, which can easily be changed but I haven't seen the need to do so. I don't even see the point to micro guides, so the super thinness of the FG is an exercise in futility for me.

They should have said "landed" bigger fish, a knot or weld doesn't catch fish the lure does. This is gimmick for the guy that has everything and doesn't know what to do with his millions. If one is having knot problems, one needs just to go back to re learn the basics, this toy will not land any more fish than a well tied knot.

I've been spooled myself a few times, compared to the hundreds of inshore outings I've had getting spooled is a pretty rare event. True redfish can get pretty big but the average is probably no more in the 5-7# range. I wouldn't fish much different than I would for bass in open water. Grassy flats are no where near as difficult to pull fish out of than heavy freshwater vegetation. For the most part your dealing with a fish that has the capability of stripping out some serious line, but don't need 50# braid. You can throw out numbers all day long, but pace out 150 yds and you'll see that's long way for a fish to run. Unless you're fishing for tuna, wahoo, 150# tarpon etc, not likely to hook a fish to run any where near that distance. I personally prefer braid, my reels on average hold some where around 200 yds of 15 or 20#, more than ample. I target juvenile and mid size tarpon up to about 60-70#, I use 20# braid, getting spooled or having my line break isn't a concern. My reels' max drag doesn't match the breaking strength of 20# braid, but I wouldn't set it that tight any way.

My only commitment is to go fishing, and I do it every day year round. I'm not bothered by the heat and humidity but the summertime gnats are a deterrent. This year is bad, last year wasn't so I did more bass fishing then. I do have some spots I go to that are fairly void of them little critters, that's where I do my peacock fishing in the summer. I have a strong distaste fishing the summertime muck and high weeds in the canals here, I fish winter for my big bass. Nothing could be truer than this Florida adage, when the bass turn off the snook turn on and vice versa. Year round I have a good bite to after.

My go to color is white with red trim. I've caught fish with black, yellow, green, red.............

I've made that trip to the ER, couldn't push the hook thru as the barb was in the joint of my thumb. I'm very careful with bass now. Been hooked a few other times while fishing the surf, hard to control a flopping bluefish or ladyfish. Hooked in the leg I was able to push it thru but the #1 4x hook was stronger than my wire cutter. Luckily I had passerbys that had better leverage and pressed the barb down. Odds are it will happen again.

If anything I've reduced my lure arsenal. I buy for replacement as needed, pretty much stick with same lures. Although I have a few reels that I may replace in time, the burning desire hasn't reached the level of researching to buy, I'm good with rods too. I catch fish each time out with good performing equipment, see no need to spend when I don't need to.

It has not been proven to me that there is any advantage to FC, whether it be line of actual leader material. I'm a spinning user, braid on all my reels with leader that I cut myself. I do have a couple of set ups with mono line and FC leaders but not associated with bass or inshore fishing. One thing I believe important with braid is keeping the rod low and under the wind, trying to keep the line as straight as possible.

For frogs I use the same line as I use for everything else, I've been switching over to US Braid. At present I have 5 reels spooled up with this line, 2 freshwater and 3 inshore 10 & 20#.

I agree with the above, I'd head west along Griffin/Orange rds.

The short answer is anything you presently use for bass. Redfish are not a difficult fish to catch, providing they are in the area and feeding. That is pretty much the key to any inshore species. As a daily inshore fisherman I carry a small arsenal of lures with me. At all times I have soft jerk shad on a jig head, bucktails, spoons, topwater and a hard jerkbait. If the fish are there one of those 5 (probably all of them) are going to work well. A typical rotation for me is a jerk shad on a jig head pre dawn, sunrise a topwater, then a spoon.

Muskegon is long way from Det. Detroit is hot now, lot going on.