plural_of_fant

Most will tie direct To a spinner or buzzbait. The twisted line tie tears up your line when it wraps around. Dsg had an exclusive booyah SB with such a tie. There was one color I really liked. But man you had to retie that thing every 15 minutes. Why the snap swivel?

It works really well. Also look at the gulp swimming mullet. This year in Delaware a 1 oz ultra minnow (spro knock off) with a four inch swimming mullet. White bucktail with pink or red gulp got me over 40 keeper flounder up to 25". If your fishing from a boat. Keep it as vertical as possible and jig rapidly. Basically Google john skinner fluke bucktail fishing. Watch his videos.

I broke the stripper guide of an Fenwick elite tech... Kept using it. Had a large wiper blow up on a spook. During the first run. Every guide but the tip snapped off. Was an interesting fight. Managed to land it. But wasn't fun. I'd get it fixed. Diy isn't hard. But for one guide a shop fix is cheaper

I coated mine with a urethane. Don't lose any details and good shiney baits. Took like 10 coats

Pour my own. Hook right through and forget about it.

Lipless cranks. Caught a few fish from time to time. But never consistently. I think I have trouble with depth control and fish them to fast/shallow

I give Susquehanna bait and tackle about 99% of my business. they are a good independent shop that's as up to date as any of the big guys.

The boat was garage kept. I'm not sure I agree with saltwater rotting more slowly.the deck was certainly not encapsulated in fiberglass. The boat was bought used. Perhaps it had already been redecked and was done poorly. All I know I've seen a lot of trackers/Lund's/alumacraft deep v multi species boats used in saltwater deteriorate rather quickly. And I know some of these people take good care of their toys.

I wouldn't put a tracker in saltwater. My friend used his tracker deep v 16 or 18' foot in Indian river bay in Delaware. The wood deck rotted in 5 years. Plus it was a very wet ride. My suggestion is if you want to swing both ways. Look for a saltwater center counsel. I'd rather take a saltwater boat into freshwater then the other way around. When going used always sea trial and have both hull and motor surveyed

I like braid for some situations... One technique that I prefer mono is weightless senkos. I feel the floating braid ruins the presentation..

I use them at a private pond. They work, hook up ratio is like any frog. I've had many tear after two or three trips to said pond. But that can easily be 100+ bass. Good sized ones too. You do have to squeeze out water more often then a padcrasher. They are light might be tough to cast on what I read about typical frog set ups.. I use a 6'6 mh spinning rig with 15 lb power pro. They don't walk. But I don't really try either.

1/4 shad dart with hair or no hair tipped with a Killie minnow and jigged very fast just on the bottom is absolutely deadly on summer flounder in the shallow bays in delmarva

Anyone have suggestions on a brand of hollow body frogs that skip well? Or any mods to improve skipping?

I've used them in a private pond.. Caught lots of fish.. But they didn't last long. Got beat up to the point that they filled up with water too fast.

The battle in 3000 or 4000 depending on line needs would be a good choice

What's your target species? I like the penn battles. I use them for inshore flounder fishing in Delaware.. They are nice reels for the price. About as nice to fish as my shimano stradic. The Penn's are a bit heavy but I look at that as a good thing when in the salt. Gives you a better chance if you hook into a random larger fish such as sharks or rays

Don't remember where I bought it.. sorry

Look for a product called screw medic. Its a small dropper bottle with fine particles suspended in a viscous liquid. A small drop and a good screwdriver works wonders. If found it works best with Phillips head screws. The stuff works and a bottle is only five bucks. So its worth a shot..

I'm going to jump on This thread rather then star a new one. Anyone know of secure options for 7' rods with a truck that has a short bed. I'm looking to buy a ram 1500 but i need the quad cab for child seats. My current freshwater boat doesn't have internal rod storage. Looking for some type of rack. But would prefer one with some level of locking. 8-10 rod capacity would be preferable. Thanks

Thanks everyone.. I have quite a few things to keep in mind and try out now.

Thanks for all the quick replies guys.. I really appreciate the help.. Man I love cranks... I have a hard time putting them down and fishing slow with plastics anymore..

The rod is a 6'8" shimano cruicial medium.. *** says it is med-fast but the actual stamp on the rod says moderate. The rod says its rated for 8-15lb test.. I am using 10#lb test Triplefish camo escent. It is a monofilament but not nylon. I had thoughts about perhaps too much stretch in combination with the whippy rod. I've never used a pure fluorocarbon but had some thoughts about trying it out. I am ok with losing the occasional fish that is not quite taking it or just slapping at it.. But the other day there was two fish in particular that I KNOW they had it choked until they got up enough for their first jump. When you can see that bass come up and there is no crank visible and then just see its mouth open up and the crank come flying is a bit discouraging. I am starting to think that I should have went with the shimano cruicial medium heavy. The only reason I really didn't was because 7' rods are difficult for me to transport with my vehicle and I didn't want to break a tip on a 160 dollar rod.

I have a fenwick elite tech rod that I absolutely love. I broke the very first guide above the reel. I still have the guide. How do I take a measurement from the guide and translate it to the single number size I see listed on rod component sites? Thanks

So I went along with the advice of wanting a moderate action rod for cranking. I bought such a rod in the 150 price point. I mostly throw smaller bodied cranks. SK 3xd, bandit 200 and 300s. Since I've started using this rod I feel that I'm actually missing fish. The thing is so flimsy that I don't feel as I am getting a good hook set. I have had numerous fish in the past few weeks come right to the top and spit the crank. Which this is exactly what I thought this type of rod action was supposed to prevent. I can feel when a fish gets on the crank, I sweep set to the side as much as I can. I have seen some guys (read on tv shows) actually take a step or two back during the sweep set. This I can't add in due to the fact I'm in a jon boat and not on the front deck of a bass rig. Any thoughts or advice that could keep a few more fish buttoned up?

I throw cranks a lot and I don't use any sort of metal leader. I've only lost one so far this year from breaking it off and I'm pretty sure that it was about 90% my fault and not from getting bit off. I've been catching tiger muskies everywhere from right to the left of state hill launch all the way up to the launch on 183. The tigers I catch are usually hanging around the numerous lay downs. Just start banging crankbaits offa the wood and you'll eventually find some musky. I would actually prefer to not catch them. They are a pain to deal with and not worth it in my opinion. For some reason a lot of them don't even really fight hard until you get them right to the side of the boat. My advice is to make sure they are played pretty good before bringing them in the boat.