crankbait2009

im looking for a nice vibrant red liquid color for plastics. I recently bought a bottle from dead on plastix. I shook it up several times. I added a lot of t to my plastic and it ended up looking orange once injected and cured. to save me from buying a bunch of different bottles, can anyone recommend a good red?

Which i do, but right now I remove it after every injection. Slows down the process 😊

when you are injecting cnc molds with the injector. once you inject all the plastic and need to refill to continue on, can you keep filling the injector up with more plastic even though you have the left over plug from the previous injection? right now, after each injection, i am opening the injector to remove that leftover plug. then i fill back up and proceed. is this plug removal needed during the process? the only thing I think that it does, is decrease the amount of plastic you can draw in for the next injection. anyone have any thoughts on this?

@Jig Man - here's a photo of the mold I got. I got it from Do-It Molds

Well, the temperature difference between the mold and plastic was the culprit. I warmed the molds up to 300 and it did the trick. Downfall? Those molds take a long time to cool down, even after injected. Had to wait a good while before cracking the mold. So I might warm them up to 200 and see how that goes. The worms are coming out nice now. here's some pictures

I'm using the red label - medium plastisol from dead on plastic. the molds I have are vented

350

@JIGMAN what method do you use to warm your molds up?

I bought my 3oz injector from basstackle too. Let me try and warm the mold up and I'll see how it goes. I'd certainly be happy if this 3oz injector could fill the senko mold. I thought about lubing the mold. I've heard some ppl use the worm oil that you use for bagging, to lube the mold. I have a big bottle of that I could try. I'll do the lube first. If that fails, then I'll try the warming method. Then if that fails, I'll do both. Thanks for the input

I have a 3 ounce dual injector. I started making 4" flukes and all is going well. Still trying to get the right amount of glitter per fluke. Work in progress. Overall, I'm pleased with the way the fluke turns out. tried to do the 5" senkos, and that is a struggle. When I inject the mold, the injector seems to stop prematurely in the process. I thought it was full of plastic, so I stopped pumping. After a few minutes, when I open the mold, the first worm in line seems to fill in with plastic. The rest of the cavity's have only half the worm injected and the tubes are hollow. I have tried the process over. double checking that my injection temperatures were within range, which they are. plastic is completely cooked. I've gone as far as injecting the plastic, then when the injector stops, I immediately refilled the injector with plastic and follow the previous fill. (I think it all has to be injected at once. Can't follow with multiple injections.) I am starting to think that the problems I am having are due to the difference in temperature from the hot plastic and the cnc molds. The plastic is setting faster than I can inject. I've heard some say to use a heat gun on the mold, or even a hot griddle. but wouldn't heating the mold cause the aluminum to warp? Is a 3 ounce injector large enough for a 4 cavity, 5" senko mold? any suggestions? I do have a ribbon worm mold coming tomorrow, will I experience the same issues with that?

what did you catch them on? I wouldn't be able to fish knowing that there are alligators in the area at any given moment

I guess I should have explained the process that I will be using. I have two aluminum molds that will be filled via the injector. I thought about the dipping too, certainly a lot easier.

im starting another hobby and this time I'm getting involved in making my own plastics. Have a couple questions about techniques. Some plastics have a different colored tail. how do you create that effect? I see molds where you'd make the tails separately, but how do you attach it to the worm itself? When don'e, it looks like it's all one piece, naturally. I was searching on YouTube for videos, but I guess I'm not putting the right title in the search field. also, if you want a crystal clear plastic, which has a translucent green appearance. how would you go about achieving this?

I guess now that you mention it....all the accessories I have and have seen, are in black plastic. None in aluminum. I guess that does answer that.

I have searched over the past few years for this, and figured I might as well try again. Once again, I have failed. YakAttack accessories are pretty much all black. With you occasional bare aluminum parts, as well as a few orange. With all the back accessories that you can buy, why on earth can you not get the GT175 Generation II GearTrac™ 8" gear track in black? I'm at the point where I might take a knock off brand to get what I am after. Currently I have the aluminum installed on my kayak, but I want black. The aluminum clashes with the kayak colors Sure I could paint it black, but that paint would chip or scratch off. So that is not an option. Has anyone here seen the black track?