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kikstand454

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Everything posted by kikstand454

  1. i tried some of that 15lb red label and had the same problem. it seemed to break on me at the strangest moments. i do not have this problem with berkley 100%. i tried the red label because everyone seems to love the seagur and the red label was dirt cheap. guess i know why now...
  2. yeah. like i said i had the some problem with a similar rig. really though for the most part when youre using a c-rig youre in open (ish) water and an overhand cast isnt an issue. i actually use a two hand "surfrod" type cast and can get some really good distance with my 7'6" crucial and a 3/4 lead. glad i could help! keep at it!
  3. i had this same problem when i was learning to throw a popping cork saltwater rig. the key is to cast as if youre throwing the sinker... NOT the bait. its a very slight difference but it keeps the leader/sinker from helicoptering which is probably what is causing youre backlash problems. also.... a c-rig should also be thrown more with an overhand/overhead type of cast instead of a side arm cast. im not sure if you are doing that but if youare... that might also be the issue as that GREATLY increases the odds of helicoptering. the c-rig is awesome.... stick with it!
  4. sounds to me like you put the spool tensioning cap back on the reel before you reinserted your spool. if you do this and tighten it down..THEN put your spool back in.... it binds up. if you then forced (maybe unknowingly) the sideplate back on and stuff like normal... this would have a binding effect on the spool. that might also account for the sound when you reel in as it could be the pinion rubbing the frame or bearings binding up. whatever it is you should not use the reel until you get it resolved. sounds like something is dying. you dont want it to be the reel. lol.
  5. i would recomend yozuri hybrid for your spinnerbait needs. AND at <$12 im sure you can hide the purchase from the ball and chain.
  6. not to highjack the thread....i have to agree with brush hoggin. the spro has done nothing for me but make me wish i had bought two scum frogs. sure.. they cast well.... but thats it. theyre average at every other variable and quite honestly... didnt even last longer than my cheap discount manns frog. (which i kill on till it starts taking on water). for that matter... the bronzeeye 65 that i got didnt make it one trip out... and didnt catch a fish either... just me working it through slop made it start to sink. its an ok frog if you like it... but im sure not buying anymore than the two i was suckered into. i neleive the next frog i try will be ishs fat frog.... i like the idea of a seperate bladder so it cant sink. oooo.... and the kopppers is prety!
  7. when i didnt have confidence in a jig.... and it wasnt that long ago.... i just made up my mind that was all i was going to throw in almost every situation umtil i caught some fish. it worked. truth is everyti,e you read an article about any technique it normally mentions a jig as an option. pros kill on them. they work. just throw it till it convinces you. youll be happy you did!
  8. ill use an old quantum iron and a shimano cardiff for deep cranking. theyre awesome. i also have to old abu black max's that i use primarily for salt water in live bait situations...(throwing pin fish at sharks and cobia).... those cheap little things just wont die. lol. too bad about the low profile "replacements"........... >
  9. i use a quantum iron for cranking deep and i love it. it casts well (like all quantums) and it has plenty of power and smoothness. of course it is a bit heavier than going with a lower profile reel or even a newer round reel... butits what i have and i have come to love it. for that matter my two deep cranking rigs are the quantum iron and a shimano cardiff. i think they are both excelent reels for the job im using them for... and i typically throw the quantum mainly with the cardiff set aside as either a back up or different line size. this is only because the iron is a tiny bit lighter and i have it on a lighter rod also. the lower gear ratio in terms of cranking (esp deep) is more for the torque than it is the "speed". the amount of resistance that a 3/4 oz lure at 20+ft deep on a 30 yard cast puts on you all day is much easier handled by a reel that is geared for "strength" rather than speed. just like your car downshifts to go up a hill..... same concept.
  10. i used it for a good long time. i liked alot. it had some memory.... but it was as strong as a rhino on pcp. then i discovered yo zuri..... and now flourocarbon....... and so i cant go back to mono again. the stretch kills me. if i were to use mono though... itd be cajun or biggame.
  11. I don't think you hijacked it, you just took it in the direction it needed to go sooner or later. Because in my opinion, the idea that location is 99% of the game doesn't allow for enough left for the other remaining aspects. Earlier, I stated that success comes about through a combination of three parts. This theory was put forth many years ago by the staff of In-Fisherman, and is the best explanation I've ever heard. So in trying to answer your question regarding location, I'll ask you a few questions. What are the bass looking for at this time of year? That should be fairly easy. Understanding that bass have three main instincts that dominate their life, Food, Shelter, and Reproduction, can narrow your search. In this instance, pre-spawn is going to tell you that the bass will be staging somewhere near spawning areas on the lake you are looking at. What kind of lake are you going to fish on? The second part of this puzzle lays in the type of lake that you are targeting. It would do little good to try to fish a midwestern natural eutrophic lake using tactics suited to a southern impoundment. You can't follow creek channels into spawning coves on a lake that was formed without any creek channels in it. So after you have learned of the habits of the bass, you need to learn as much about the various types of lakes, rivers, or impoundments there are, and the types of structure and cover you will find on these types of waters. By combining your knowledge of the bass' seasonal needs and how these fish will relate to current conditions, you should be able to determine what types of structure or cover they will be focused on given those same seasons and conditions. Once you have these two factors figured out, you come to the final question. What baits should I use? Almost every bait you can buy on the market will catch fish at some point in time, while very few will catch fish all of the time. You need to think about the first two aspects of this effort to figure out which bait completes your entire plan for success. If the season and conditions tell you that the bass will be actively feeding, then you should focus on baits that give you the best chance to quickly take advantage of this. Conversely, if conditions tell you that most fish will be suffering from a case of lockjaw, then you will need to focus your efforts with baits that work better for neutral or negative bass. So now taking all of this into consideration, I'll tackle your challenge of facing a new lake. It doesn't matter if it's March, July, or December. I should be able to look at what the bass are doing based on the season, I should understand the attributes of the type of lake it is, and taking current conditions into mind, I should be able to find fish and determine what type of mood they will most likely be in. Case in point - Kentucky Lake and the upcoming Roadtrip. I have only been on that lake once in my life. I was 13 years old, and we fished for nothing but crappie. Now I'm getting ready to go there this spring to fish for bass. The lake is huge by the standards of the lakes I normally fish. But I have confidence that I can catch fish down there. I won't do as well as the guys who fish it all the time, but I should avoid the skunk. This is because I know the fish I'm going after, I have fished impoundments like it before, and I know what the season is. The challenges I will face are going to be based on the actual conditions for the time I'm there, and what baits I'll need to throw to maximize my chances based on the fishes mood. I'm sorry this is so long, but I don't know how to explain it any other way. It's F + L + P = Success. x2. knowledge and versatility can trump local knowledge regularly. take a look at major tournements... esp those of the b.a.s.s. elite or F.l.w pro tour and you will see that RARELY does the "home angler" win. i think local knowledge gives you an upperhand in sudden game changing scenarios... but for the most part the advantage tops out at a good chance of at least being in the money. if you fish a body of water regularly then you know that even the "hot" spots can skunk people or not have the weight to win a tourney. you know that even within a certain season the fish change mood day to day...hour to hour even. and certainly from one week to the next. knowing how to figure out the puzzle is much more productive than having "spots". this is why kvd could come to your home lake and outfish its best guide more times than not. wheather hes been on it or not.
  12. well.... i made the switch from mono to copoly about 3 or 4 years ago... and never looked back. now im switching my spinning reels, crankbaits and "bottom" lures (jigs,worms,c-rigs...etc.) to flouro.... and im probably not going back from that either. i have convinced myself that the flouro is slightly more sensitive and much more invisible. this may or may not be true... but i have talked myself into it. for all moving lures (spinnerbaits,topwaters,floating worms...etc.) i use 12 or 15lb yo-zuri hybrid copoly. for bottom lures and cranks i use berkley 100% flouro and from time to time bps flouro. the only itme i think i could justify using straight mono anymore would maybe be for topwaters such as poppers or spooks where you want a little bit of stretch for the treble hooks but dont really want a soft rod for the technique.
  13. the video is brilliant. my advice for the newbie baitcaster... as i havent been doing it that long myself is... dont try for distance OR accuracy when you are practicing in the yard. just try to cast and get used to the mechanics of what you have to do. learn how a 3/8 and 1/2oz cast differently.... how they load your rod...etc. and most importantly.... walk your lure out about 50 or 60 feet and then go back and put a peice of clear tape across your spool. this will keep your backlashes confined to the top part of your spool... and you wont have to respool all the time. fwiw i taught myself to baitcast as stated above by pitching down the hallway in my house. this was the reason i wanted to buy a baitcaster in the first place and so thats what i started learning. i think it made the transition to casting much much easier. *shrug*
  14. for what its worth ive caught some pretty decent speckled trout on them. the very first time i threw one in freshwater i caught a crappie on one hook and a small bass on the other.... didnt get another bite on it all day! lol.
  15. i like mine and like said before ... they have their place next to the other brands that you like. i love how they cast and how the fall pretty vertical.... i hate how the paint comes off in two trips. *shrug* id be ticked but my more expensive xcalibur oneknockers all have their eyes missing and i havent used them but a handfull of times and havent caught but maybe one fish on them. they just dont make things like they used to,
  16. three words... zoom trick worm.
  17. Sounds like a whooping well deserved..they may want to re-think about who may have a concealed weapon permit before "running up to them with a club". yeah... here in florida.... we can shoot first and ask questions later. like it should be. "i dont know your honor.... i was just out fishing with my kid and this naked dude came at me with a club...." "why did you shoot him three times?" "well my father always said 'dont ever pull a gun unless you plan to shoot it... and dont ever shoot a gun unless you plan to kill what youre shooting at..... and so... well your honor... he was still moving..." case dismissed. ;D
  18. has he ever flipped? I think that if he did give up on cranks for a tournament, people might think he was sick or something. oh....he flips. lol. his how-to "pitching to heavy hitters" is must see t.v. i dont think theres anything he cant do.... he just likes to do things that require the most action and speed. thats his style. i think thats why he doesnt do as well on "big fish" lakes where draggin 14 in. worms or pitching to submerged brush is the winning pattern. *shrug* make no mistake... he can do it. lol. however... knowing him he will spend all year trying to master his "weakness" and throw a swimbait in every tourney. probably win again too......
  19. X4 x5 +black.
  20. yup. i agree with everyone else. they are great producing lures..... but then.. almost everything zoom makes is. *shrug*
  21. for what its worth i have 2 saltwater rods that ive been using for about 5 years or more now with powerpro braid. it is old braid that i leave on most of the summer and then flip over and use again before i discard it. i have no wear on my guides and no visible or noticable damage/wear to the rod in anyway. i have caught 4 foot sharks and countless redfish and blues on these rods. the rods? hahah..... uglystick graphite pros. if those guides dont have a problem... then the recoils should/better be fine.
  22. ive been considering buying a dedicated jig rod for months now and have decided on the vertas 7'mh/f. a local store finally got them in and now its all i think about. lol. i want one so bad its stupid. i know that they are ligthweight and i love the feel and design... but for those who have them...a few questions. i have mostly shimano rods. i love them. i have no problems with them at all and love their warranty. but the truth is i also love the split grip design. i have a crucial that is split grip and i love it. i cannot afford a cumara so im forced to look at other companies if this feature is important to me. also i want to experiment with some other rods and companies as most companies now affoer awesome rods in the <$150 range. my questions are does anyone know how their warranty is? i know their new but has anyone had and durability issues? excluding the split grip factor... how do they compare to say the compre shimano? again .... just asking... im almost certainly getting one as soon as the funds are available to do so.
  23. i love rush.... i play bass. while any of the big companies have great reels for that price range....i agree somewhat with scorpio... the daiwa 100hn is an awesome reel for a beginner that has brakes that actually work. imho i think that when youre just starting out a solid competent reel that is midly forgiving is better to get than a "pro" level ridiculously smooth reel that is designed for people that are more advanced in their casting. that is not to say that you can not learn on these type reels... and their might be the argument to do so sets you up for better casting in the future.... but i think just starting out a high quality ROD is much more important. get a <100 dollar reel and get a >100 dollar rod. Or you could get a bps pro qualifier combo which is the general consensus on this site as the best rod/reel for the midlevel price.
  24. im going to offer my standard advice when this thread comes up. the ratio of the reel in relation to why it should be lower for deep cranks has alot more to do with the torque and resistance a 3/4 or 1oz lure puts on a reel when its 20 feet down and 30yds out. you dont tow your boat up a mountain in fifth gear/ overdrive...you (or your autotransmission) shifts down. same principle. if... like you said... you dont plan on doing it too much then a 6.x reel may be the reel for you as you can multi-purpose it. but if youre going to be throwing dd22s and mann 30+ all day long in the middle of summer.... do yourself a favor and get a 5.x or lower. oh... and as an alternative to the calcutta.... the cardiff is another awesome shimano round reel that is 5.x and sometimes 4.x and is easily found for 100 dollars or less.
  25. yeah... i use my 7' m/f shallow crank rod as my topwater rod. i think personally that the two techniques call for very similar rods. you want a fast tip so you can walk the dog, and you want a fast tip so you can have a better feel on a crank. you want medium for both rods because of the treble hooks.
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