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That's a good article. What RM showed me was using the old style wooden shaft q-tips and BRASSO. Cut one end of the Q-tip off, place it in the dremel, then wet the q-tip with brasso. Now at a slow rotation run the q-tip around the brake race then let it sit for a few minuets or until hazy. Now using a clean dry q-tip and high speed polish the brake race, to a shine. Using the brasso there is very little in the way of residue left over to have to clean up, also using the Q-tip there was no need to remove the brake races from the reels. Basically all you are doing is removing the tarnish from any and all free spool friction points. The other point that Nielsen makes in the article is that super tuning at the time of the article was written it was a way to make the OLDER reels perform like the newer super frees and higher end reels without having to pay the prices for reels today.... This is something RM does to each reel automatically (new or older) he services..

When I was training with ReelMechanic I learned that loosening the drags was a relative term. Loosening the drag from a 2/3 of line strength setting to fully disengaged is not necessary, loosen the drag enough to relieve the pressure on the drag spring washers and drag pads, but not so much that the spool is free turning. I don't think I have ever backed off the CCCap on a reel when storing. Just my .02¢ learned from a pro. Tight Lines!

Yea that is an original Sweden tooled Garcia 5000C (circa 1976).. Gear Ratio should be around 5.1:1 to 5.5:1 has the old thin fiber drag washer. The spool shaft rides on 2 brass bushings/bearings (but can be upgraded to bearings), copper shims and oil rings under both caps. The cap on the crank side is always tight, the cap on the palming side plate is the free spool (cast control cap). The level wind is engaged while in free spool, the pawl part number is #5176 and still available. As far as drag pads smoothie and the Reel Mechanic carry the pads for it now, probably the old #049 part number. I use to have 2 of them, until the black 5001C came out in 1985 and I started cranking big nasty Abus in lefty. Great work horse reels!! Tight Lines!!

There is no way to fix a bent frame or cracked shock ring. As far as the finish on the threads you can while using a super fine grit sanding pad from 3M rough the surface slightly and redcoat with finish. As far as replacing the guide and re-wrapping, the only video instructions I know of are located at Mudhole and Fish Sticks 4 You!... Good Luck!

St.Croix uses... REC® Recoil® guides on the Legend® X-treme rods.. Fuji® Alconite® Concept on the Legend Tournament® Bass (the blue rod).. Fuji® Alconite® Concept on the Avid Series rods.. Batson Forecast hard aluminum-oxide on the Mojo Bass rods.. Batson Forecast® hard aluminum-oxide on the Premier® rods. All can be had directly from St.Croix, or any of the other rod building supply shops online... Good Luck Tight Wraps... 8-)

Back then there was 2 or 3 different memberships on the membership sign up card, if I remember right a 1year, a 2year and a lifetime. For the lifetime you paid a total of $300 $150. down and the rest in time with no sign up gifts until balance was paid.

You need to clean and re-lube the worm gear. Pull the pawl and clean the blade then re-turn it with one drop of oil.... Good Luck...

Life Member since 1975.

With all of the service techs that are out there, there is the availability of support information from most any of them on most any reel/s if you know how to search the info. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Try this thread...... http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1226116477/all

Getting harder to find good medium power 5'6" rods I'd keep it for jerkbaits, small spinnerbaits, etc. Tight Lines!!!

I use a wrist rest that RM and I came up with. As far as finish applications we use the yellow FlexCoat® brushes trimmed flat. Tight Wraps!

Found out today from St.Croix® that the Mojo rods are imports, they wouldn't say from where but we knew they had bought a new factory either in China or Mexico. They aren't a step down in the Premiere series but a step up in the Triumph series. Good Luck & Tight Lines!

As a builder that builds with RM exclusively on the St.Croix blanks. The Mojo rods are just a premiere with a new finish color (black cherry), the guides are the same Batson Aluminum Oxide, only difference is the split grip get into a premiere series rod. The splits use to only start with the Avid on up to Legends. We have been building rods like these for better than 2 years now....Only spiraled for efficiency!

Check and make sure that the drag spring washers in the stack (jist above the drive gear are in the proper orientation like so () not spooned like this (( ..

Wrap colors for the most part are personal preferences. I personally like Royal Blue with Silver inlays, Scarlet with Gold inlays, and Candy Apple with Silver inlays. When I don't want any colors then I wrap in Black with Silver inlays. But like I said color is personal preferences.. The important part is to wrap each guide keeping the wraps to a minimum in length, and with as little finish as possible to keep the weight down on the forward end of the rod. Tight Wraps! 8-)

Yup kind of figure that you had either taken Connie & Killers business course, or you purchased the $90 vid and tool kit...... 8-)

Balance is a matter of personal preference. I would say when the rod/reel feel (lightest and most comfortable) in your hands. Tight Lines!!!

Guess that covers your question then. Good Luck..

At least once a season for a complete servicing. Basic maintenance is done as often as every few outings or depending on how worked the reel/s get. Some would say it is easy. If you have never done it then I would recommend you have someone like The Reel Mechanic do it for you. Yes! 5:1.1 is a slow crankbait GR (Gear Ratio). 7:1.1 is in the Burner range, real quick for turning the heads before the fish can get into cover, I use them for t-rigs, and jigs. 6:1.1 to 6:4.1 is an all around gear ratio you will find on most BC reelsHope this helps..

What reel? Model and Make........... I know on my reels if I turn them over I don't see bearings I see the bottom of the reel foot..

If RM were here he would say "If you are going to break down the reel to oil it then you need to clean it first, because it doesn't do any good to lubricate a reel over old grease and oil"... With a clean reel, grease the teeth of the main drive gear and force the grease down into the cuts to the base of the teeth, and oil everywhere else remembering "LESS IS BEST".. Only one drop oil in the bearings (whether or not they are spool support or crank assembly). Hope this helps....

I have been reel service and rod build trained by that man (for 5 years now), I listen to everything he says. Did you get the burnt burl he sent off? The best and lightest way he taught me was to make an arbor out of dry wall tape. Build it up to fit the front of the seat... Oh btw we won't be seeing much of RM on the forum anymore, he's just not up to it. If I can relay messages or help in any way let me know..... As RM would say, tight wraps all!

RM and I have had lots of discussions about the QA of reel manufacturers, found out recently they are only looking at (QA) 1 in 1000 reels trying to keep the production lines running and producing more in a day (paid by the piece)...

I personally wouldn't do it... Warning! You will void any warranty on the Avid... Here is an article from another builder George Roth HANDLE REMODELING Good Luck!