Fishing Rhino

First goal. Have fun. Others: Learn to use jigs, jig n pig, drop shotting, shakey heading, and crankbaits. Most of my fish are caught in shallow water of five feet or less. Try new places. Last goal. Have fun.

If you have windows, check for updates. When the window for updates opens, click on express, and the program will check your computer to see if it is current. You can pick and choose the updates you want to install. I select them all since they deal with security and performance issues. I had a problem a while back playing videos on Internet Explorer. It kept telling me I needed to install flash player. When I tried, my computer would not install it. Even though it had been installed and videos played in the past. I had to download SublnACL from the Microsoft website (no charge). It fixed permission issuses that prevented the flash player from being installed. I'm no computer geek, but managed to get the problem solved. If you try to install flash player, and it doesn't install, there is a troubleshooting link that will get you to the appropriate Microsoft page for the above download. An easier solution if you have AOL is to open it on the AOL site. AOL has it's own video player. Go to AOL.com. When it opens, paste the URL for the Lunkerville show in the address space and click go. That might work.

1500 - 2000 That's figuring in gasoline for my truck, but not including a trip to Georgia and Alabama in March. Will be visiting our daughter in GA, so it's a combo trip. Shouldn't need any rods and reels, since I have 5 baitcasters. One can handle lures up to 6 oz. Another up to 3. The remaining are one 1.5 oz and two 3/4 oz. Four spinning rods of medium to medium heavy action. But, never say never. I don't have an ultralight, so.................. Pretty well set on terminal gear. Maybe a trolling motor. Might build a jon boat. If so, that will push my spending higher.

No better way to spend a profit sharing check. Enjoy it in good health.

It should work just fine. Square stern, ready for trolling or small outboard motor. I notice it has a bit of a keel, which is also good. It will greatly reduce sideways drift in a breeze, and also help it track better when under power. I'm guessing, but it looks like you could stand in it to fish. I'd suggest doing it in shallow water until you get your sealegs under you, just in case. Looks versatile. I'd say it will work just fine as long as you stay within its limitations. It'll give you many, many hours of pleasure.

The chatterfrog is my lure du jour. It comes with two frog leg trailers. Make sure the trailer is straight, and does not follow the curve of the hook. When you've got it in place, a drop or two of super glue will lock it in place permanently. I fish it in shallow or deeper water. The frog head loses its paint from bumping over rocks. Fish it fast enough to feel a good throb in your rod. As was suggested by another member, vary your retrieve 'til you find what the bass want.

I just picked up two. Christmas gift to myself. A great bargain at 30 bucks off the regular price, and an 80 dollar savings over buying them separately. Nice selection of rods and reel with different ratios and one flipping model. I got the 7' 10" extra heavy and a 6' 6" medium heavy. The first is for casting swimbaits up to 3 ounces, and a backup to my Nitro combo which can toss lures up to 6 ounces. I plan to try them on Stripers chasing herring into the Westport River next spring. I'm curious to try some of the stuff I've got for largemouths to see what happens. The other makes number two of that combo. Will be rigged with a different bait for ease of switching.

Too cheap to buy a drift sock. Yeah, I know all that spent on equipment and too cheap.......................... I use a five gallon bucket with a three line harness to its mouth. Really slows the drift and keeps the boat from swinging back and forth. Costs nothing, plus it provides storage for bottles of water and miscellaneous stuff. Drilled four one inch holes in the bottom. I figured a round parachute spills air through a hole in the top for some reason, possibly to keep it more stable. It should work on a bucket as well. It is stable. Because of the holes? Who knows?

Thanks. While not being able to stand has its disadvantages, the advantages more than balance it out. I do everything right from the seat. When you catch a lunker and get it to the boat, it's right there beside you. Easy to lip or net it. I rarely use the net for bass. I usually use if for large pickerel. Funny, years ago, I thought nothing of handling them. Now, the large ones look like barracuda to me. I want no part of those teeth until I get it under control with the net. The other thing about handling fish that makes the canoe handy is that I always wet my hand before handling any fish. A wet hand does less damage to the slime coating on a fish. Though I plan to have a platform boat, jon or otherwise to complement the canoe, I cannot get the image of me taking a couple of unplanned swims as I lean over the side out of my mind.

Thanks. My wife thinks it's absurd with all those rods. I'd hate to go back to just a couple of rods, but would if necessary. It is eye opening to see how the catch goes up when you can put one rod down and pick up another that is rigged differently. When I had a couple, I'd set up my tackle box with the lures I wanted to try 'til I found what the fish wanted. Changing lures is time consuming, for me anyway. I now do it at home. With that number of rods I can rig with an assortment of baits. The center rod is for handling wake baits. It will handle lures up to six ounces. The rod to its left is also extra heavy and will handle lures up to three ounces. I'm anxious for next spring. When the herring start to run in the Westport Rivers, it isn't long before large stripers chase them into the runs. I want to try some of the large swimbaits that look like herring, and some of the larger worms, just to see what happens.

Here's a site to give you a start. http://www.trackerboats.com/segment/jon-utility-boats.cfm While I'm not a fan of riveted jon boats (I'd prefer the welded), I had one years ago from Sears. The problem is, that after pounding around, and on Lake Norman, that's quite possible, the rivets will loosen up. But, if you treat her appropriately by fishing calm waters, which means the sheltered shores and coves on windy days, it will take years for that to happen. I used to take my jon onto Cape Cod Bay, and beat it around chasing Stripers and Bluefish. I know, not too bright, but it was all I could afford back in the late 1960s. Keep in mind, riveted jon boats, while not being as sturdy as their welded kin, do have the benefit of being lighter and easier to handle, on the beach and on the water. The price of a riveted Tracker, will also allow you to get a new electric trolling motor and battery for the budget you quoted. Granted, it won't be the most powerful, but you don't really need that on a jon, and the entire unit will be new and guaranteed. In addition, being new means that you should get a few years of trouble free use out of both. I've been by Lake Norman several times on trips to the South. I'm guessing there are several public access ramps available, based on its size. If that is the case, you should always be able to find a ramp on or near a sheltered area. Start by using it as is, then modify it as budgetary considerations allow. The prime consideration is that you'll have something to get you where the fish are, or at least where you think they might be.

I've used a canoe for two years now. Yes, the wind can blow me around at trolling speed, but that's one of the tradeoffs. Anchoring is a PITA, but I fish shallow, soft-bottomed water and the anchor holds very well. Also, slime mats or thick lily pads can serve as anchors. I agree, even though John can carry a lot of stuff in his kayak. I also like the fact that I have such easy access to everything I bring. Mine is pretty wide and I can stand in it, but I don't very often. The width makes it very stable, but the tradeoff to that is paddling inefficiency. I don't want to get into the canoe-vs.-kayak thing, to each their own, but for me my two choices were either an ultralight Kevlar canoe or nothing. The pond I fish most has a rocky shore. The east side of the pond is mostly farm fields. The west side is heavily wooded with a few homes. However, there are stone walls running through the areas around the pond which tells me that the woodlands were once all open fields. I suspect the rocks around the pond are the result of farmers clearing those fields. On average, once you get 20 to 30 feet from the shore, the bottom is soft mud. There are also a few "jetties" that run out from the shore, which are obviously man made. But not recently. The shore is thick with vegetation. One of my tricks, if the wind tries to blow me along the shore is to back the canoe into this vegetation (thick lily pads, and water hyacinth work as well), then fan cast the area thoroughly. Move 30 - 40 feet and repeat the process. It works very well.

Yes, I built them. This is the second incarnation. The first prototype was fine, but had some minor flaws. The spacing on the forward rack was not correct. Ditto for the larger rack for the butts. The cutouts were a little too close together. I used a piece of 1/2 inch plywood that was hanging around. The new version is made of cabinet grade birch plywood. 1/2" is nine ply. Seven core layers and two veneer layers. Much nicer for this type of job. The other rack could hold eight rods, and the paddle in the center of them. The old forward rack had a straight top, the new version is crowned. It's a cheat to provide a longer surface than straight. It allows for a bit more space between the tips that way. Esthetically it is more pleasing, to me anyway. Took more pains. Used a drill press and a jig to hold the rack so all the dowels lined up nicely. The prototype was done with a hand drill. Looked like it needed an orthodontist. But it worked. The best part is the white cushion for the butts. It is weatherstripping. But it is neat, clean, tough and durable. Got it at Home Depot. It's Frost King EPDM Rubber Weatherseal. 5/8" wide by 5/16" thick. Its ribbed. Will not harden, crack or freeze and retains its shape in sub-zero temps. It's a lot like a gasket on a fridge. Self stick. Peel the tape off the back as you go. I've given it a pretty good tug, and it does not separate from the wood. In fact, when applying it, if it touched a surface it wanted to stay. Several coats of marine polyurethane on the pieces. That way, it cannot absorb moisture which could get to the weatherseal, and perhaps ruin the bond. To protect the rod tips, I used a piece of 3/8" clear plastic tubing. I made a cut lengthwise so it could be slipped over the pegs. Then I marked where each peg was, drilled at the marks, then slipped the tubing over the pegs. A couple of pan head phillips stainless steel screws at each end secured it nicely. Between that screw and the peg on each end, I put another screw, leaving 1/4" between the head and the plastic tubing. Hook a canopy bungee cord on that screw, stretch it across the rods and hook it over the screw on the other end. When transporting the canoe, it prevents them from bouncing out or chattering and getting scuffed. Just prior to launch, I remove the bungee. At the butt end, I have a dowel between and below each rod that is angled downward at the tip. When fishing, I hook a bungee at each end and across the rods. If I tip, it will keep them with the canoe. When traveling, I hook the bungee over every other rod. Makes them very snug in the rack. What might not show in that photo is the cord that goes to the tackle box under the front seat. I use it to pull the tackle box to me, then use the paddle to slide it back. It's the perfect height to stow under the seat, and slide beneath the center thwart. One other thing. What is the front seat as I use it, is really the rear seat. It balances better because the front seat is closer to the center of the canoe. The canoe is pretty near symetrical so it handles just as well. The canoe in that video is 6 to 8 inches wider than the Old Town I have. I capsized mine once last summer. Stupid me, I was poking at something with the paddle and I stretched out over the side of the canoe. Splash. When I fell out, it righted itself, but I had to gather a couple of the tackle boxes, the paddle, and the landing net. Fortunately I was only in about four feet of water. I bailed it out, walked it to shore, got everything organized, boarded it, and continued fishing. That will not happen again.

I have this version. http://www.oldtowncanoe.com/canoes/generalFamily/camper_15.html I really like it, but it does have its limitations. Canoes are best on calm days or in gentle breezes. The wind raises Cain with them. I fish in one. Some like kayaks better, but I prefer the canoe. You can carry more gear and goods. Don't advise standing in it. Nine rods, three tackle boxes, a fish finder, a five gallon bucket to use as a wind anchor, and another holding a ten pound mushroom anchor. The paddle stows to my right, and the landing net to my left. I can do everything without leaving my seat, while I am on the water. As rigged, it's a one man boat. I can remove the rod holders, making it usable for two in a matter of a few minutes. Can't take as many rods then. Great on small bodies of water or fishing sheltered coves and shores of larger ponds and lakes.

OK, I think I've got it. I hope I've got it. I pray I've got it. YES!!!

Great info. Just what I was looking for. Thanks.

A few months ago I posted about my "fishing machine". I had modified my canoe to keep everything instantly accessible from my seat. While the prototype worked well, and exceeded my expectations, there were things about it that could be improved. The spacing on the original rod tip holder was not quite right. The "pockets" on the midship holder for the butts were a little too deep, and a bit too close together. Here is the finished, refined product. http://s135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/?action=view&current=DSC03363.jpg http://s135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/?action=view&current=DSC03362.jpg http://s135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/?action=view&current=DSC03361.jpg http://s135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/?action=view&current=DSC03360.jpg http://s135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/?action=view&current=DSC03359.jpg http://s135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/?action=view&current=DSC03358.jpg

Did you leave the nap on the edges. If so, what gap did you have between panels? My compartment lids are measured out to be approx. 1/8-1/4 inch below the carpeted deck. After I wrap the comp. lids I'll shave the underside right down to a nub. If I leave the pile as it is, the compartment won't close down all the way and it will also be uneven with the deck surface. In any boat recarpet job, if you use 20oz and especially 24 oz, you may find it difficult to open compartment lids due to the pile thickness. This can also be aleviated by shaving the sides of the compartments carpet. Great, that answers my questions. Thanks But it brings up another regarding the carpet. Is heavier always better? Is the carpet on the rolls at Home Depot or Lowes satisfactory, or is there something better? I don't mind paying more as long as the value in durability and quality is worth the extra. What about color? Most of the boats I have seen use gray. I know lighter colors will reflect more glare, and show dirt quickly, but will absorb less radiant heat. Vice versa for dark colors. I'm guessing that medium colors such as gray strike a happy compromise.

Did you leave the nap on the edges. If so, what gap did you have between panels?

I am able to vacuum bag. Have done it on some small parts. Have also done some laminating to foam w/o bagging and haven't had a problem. But, I'm glad you brought it up. Could also use balsa core. The main problem with either is their tendency to wick away the resin, leaving gaps. I've found that rolling on a generous coat of resin prior to applying the mat eliminates that problem. If you lay out the material and wet it thoroughly without regard to the wicking, it will present the problem you mentioned. It will be wet with no visible voids, but those voids will appear during the cure because some of the resin is absorbed into the foam leaving the laminate resin starved. When I first worked with foam, I thought that would not be a problem because it is a closed cell foam. Wrong. I certainly don't want to go through the bagging process. I've got the nylon separation cloth and the material to absorb the excess, but it can be a pain. Thanks for the heads up.

Depends on the weight of the carpet. 16,20 or 24oz carpet has varying thicknesses depending on the manufacturer. You can always use a razor or a set of electric hair trimmers to trim the fabric down to a stub. I've alotted 1/4" on my deck insert carpet redo project. You are quite likely correct about the weight. But, I am going to use a foam core construction with minimum material except in the high wear areas, and where extra strength is needed. Batteries, and other "permanent" equipment such as pumps would mean more weight. The stock car bodies I make weigh in at around 60 pounds, bumper to bumper. If it requires a trailer, that's fine. I suspect the decking would be the bugaboo regarding weight. However, my fiberglass vendor has honeycomb resin panels up to an inch thick that are very light, and as stiff as plywood. They have the added benefit of not absorbing water. I have not used them in my work, and it is possible the cost would be prohibitive. As much as I like the idea of a platform boat, I may be better with a standard configuration with pedestal seats and a carpeted bottom. A question on the carpet to make sure I'm understanding correctly. When the carpet is installed on a panel, the nap on the edges is shaved or trimmed close to the backing. Is that right? I appreciate your input, it has given me much food for thought.

The first order of business for me is to catch fish. I got hooked as a kid with a bamboo pole, no reel, just a line, bobber, hook, and a can of worms. Catching small paddies (bluegill, sunfish, etc.), yellow perch, hornpout or horned pout, was a big deal to a young lad, and a great way to while away the afternoon. My experience on the pond I fish most often is that the dinks will not bother with a 4" Storm Wild Eye or similar swim bait. The same with a chatterfrog, and spinnerbait with a larger trailer such as the five inch Mister Twister grub. Only occasionally do I use the larger size spinnerbaits, opting for the medium size with a larger trailer. Even Mepps number 4 Black Furies seem to reduce the numbers of dinks. Even the number 3 is ok, but anything smaller and the dinks are the order of the day. I would make one suggestion, since there are times when smaller seems better. If there are a few fish within range of your lure, the smaller ones seem to beat the larger fish to the bait. If you haul in a dink, make a few more casts to the same area. Clear the dinks out and who knows, you may find a goodun on the business end of your line. How many times have you seen on a fishing show that a hooked fish is often followed to the boat by a larger one.

Looks like you did a fine job. And that's along the idea of what I want for a deck, except for the open area. I plan to make a hatch that will provide the leg access you have, but will cover it when fishing. I'm likely to stumble into any open compartment. Falling over the side, except in cold weather, doesn't concern me, but taking a header into a recess does. One question. How much of a gap is required to accomodate rolling the carpet over the edges of deck components?

I mentioned some time ago that I was considering building a jon boat out of fiberglass during the offseason. I know the hull will be heavier, and it will cost more than buying an aluminum version. But the finished product may not be much heavier than if I started with an aluminum, new or used. And, I can build it to my precise specs. Starting with a blank sheet will make many things possible. Anyway, here's my thoughts to date. I want a full platform rail to rail, bow to stern, with no obstructions save for motor power outboard and/or trolling motor. A "foot well" with a hinged lid would allow the operator to sit on the deck while controlling a small outboard at the stern. While fishing, the hatch would be closed and flush with the rest of the deck. One or two rod compartments to accomodate rods of 8(?) feet. A live well/bait well somewhere amidships. Compartments for tackle, foul weather gear, cooler, battery(ies), fuel tank, electronics, etc., must be taken into account. I want to build it with the maximum beam that will fit between the wheel wells of a standard pickup truck. Length of twelve feet. Can be slightly longer, if necessary. The hull will be compartmented by stringers and bulkheads with no need for framing. The current plan is to laminate fiberglass mat to both sides of 1/4" foam in 4 by 8 foot sheets. These can be cut to fit the hull and the top edges will support the deck. This, along with the foam core should make for a reasonably light, yet stiff hull. The plan is to use the minimum amount of fiberglass for the hull with extra layers at the chimes, corners, runners on the bottom, and anywhere else that is subject to abuse. Since I work with fiberglass, repairs will be a simple matter. I have a roll of kevlar left over from the race car body business, and I can incorporate that into the hull for extra strength. Two pedestal seats, and flush mount pole holders with covers need to be placed in the platform. Basically, I want it to be a floating raft for fishing, with everything stowed below the deck, but remaining easily accessible. I know several members have modified jon boats into bass boats, and would appreciate input as to sizes for compartments, things to avoid, and ways to streamline and simplify plumbing and wiring. My canoe is great for fishing alone, and in it's place cannot be beat. But I want something that allows me to bring a guest with room for all the gear and equipment, and that can be used on larger water and windier conditions. The canoe is moved around by the wind like a hot air balloon. Regards, Tom