snapshotmd

So I bought a 15 amp circuit breaker instead of a 20 amp CB online to replace the 20A CB that is not usable anymore. This breaker will serve the lights, accessory plug, bilge, aerator pumps, and depthfinder. Would I be ok with the 15 amp breaker or should I go through the trouble to exchange it.

When I retire, I'm moving to TN. My FIL has a lake house in TN and the bass fishing is SUPERB!!!

Wow that's cheap! Minnkota wants $45 for theirs. But then it's a 60A breaker.

I'm trying to remove a seat mount from the floor of my boat. The screws just spin in place and when I tried to pry the plate up to get the screws out the screws got really hard to turn, starting to strip the head. Is there some sort of special trick to taking these things off?

After having the boat for a few days I've decided to keep it on the driveway. I figured that it would give me more room to work on the boat. The only thing that bothers me about it is the tree crapping on it and parking the cars. My original plan was to raise the deck to a more "bass boat" like layout, but most of my friends say to leave it the way it is and to just replace carpet, wires, and clean it up. I've notice that true bass boats have you sit higher. Is there a significant advantage to raising the deck?

I just acquired a used deep cycle marine battery and when I went to charge it the charger "flickers" between "almost full charge" and full charge". That is, it will switch between charge and charge complete each second. What does this mean???

I posted about 3 weeks ago about paying $500 for a 1990 16' Procraft Crappie Hunter boat. Well, I dropped it off to have it looked at and after 3 weeks in the shop she's finally home!!! Y'all are probably gonna laugh at this. I admit that maybe I didn't plan well enough for this. I had planned to squeeze the boat and trailer into my garage while I work at refurbishing the boat. My driveway is graded a bit. I drove the boat up part of the way up the driveway and figured that I finesse it into my garage with a trailer dolly. Well, my wife was busy and my 5-yo son was eager to help. So, I had my son pull the tire chocks while I was on the front end of the trailer ready to push it up the driveway. The boat ended up pushing me down the driveway and into the street where the wheels stopped in the gutter. The boat pushed me so hard that it pushed me out of my sneakers which weren't tied on too tight. So I was fighting the boat in my socks all the way down the driveway. :-[ Seriously, I can't make this stuff up. Anyway, I drove it up the driveway and halfway into the garage when I realized the motor was taller than the bottom of the shelf in the back of the garage. > I needed every last inch to get the boat in. I'm probably going to leave it in the driveway for now. Can't haul it to the back of my house b/c there is not enough room to get it back there. Enjoy the pics!

I was getting ready to buy the orange Pflueger/Allstar baitcast combo on sale for about $69. I noticed most of the reels of the same model were broke on the display stand. Also, I noticed this model amongst many others did not have a centrifugal brake adjustment on the other side of the crank. Is this new technology or should I steer clear of these reels? I was going to use this baitcast combo as a worm setup since the reel has a low 5.1 to 1 ratio.

Being a new boater and never pulled a trailer before, I didn't double check to see if the trailer was properly seated on the hitch ball.... Well, I guess you probably could guess what happened. I think I was very lucky that the trailer didn't takeoff across the road. Always check the hitch connection by pulling up on the tongue and feeling underneath that you have the hitch ball seated in the tongue socket (that actually sounded dirty)

I'm having a motor inspected at Riverside Marina and they're charging me $110 to look at it. I was expecting something like $65! Are they ripping me off, or is this what it cost nowadays?

How hard is it to paint a 16' long, 73" wide aluminum boat? The paint on the bottom of this boat has chipped off and I'm concerned about flipping the boat over, or cocking the boat to one side to clear the bunks on the trailer. I'm not sure how to go about this and would appreciate any suggestions I'm also thinking of using a HVLP sprayer on this in my garage. Will I have a problem with overspray; do I need to cover EVERYTHING in the garage? I'd appreciate any suggestions on how to go about this.

In Maryland it ain't so bad. I titled and registered my old canoe that I bought from from someone else and has not been used in years. I titled and reg because I wanted to start using a trolling motor on it. IIRC, I just went down to my DNR office, told them the situation, told them what I paid for it, filled out the forms, submitted a trace of the hull id number, paid my fees, and they issued a title and registration. No problem.

whew! This is my first boat so I wasn't totally sure if I did a stupid thing or not. Before getting this boat I did alot of research on what to look for, and there were some checks I couldn't do because the deck was buried under ice/snow and couldn't put in the water. I was standing there with half of me saying "I want this boat" and the other half "but you weren't thorough". I couldn't even get most junkers for less than $600... it seems to good to be true, but it looks like I'll end up on the plus side. I will definitely keep y'all posted on the progress.

A 1990 16' ProCraft 1672 aluminum boat with 1990 25hp Mercury on a 1996 Venture galvanized trailer showed up on CL yesterday. The asking price was $500. Yes, five hundred. My area just had a snowstorm that had just ended when I went to look at the boat. The boat did not have a cover on and the inside was buried in snow and ice. The owner says he owned it since it was new and has always put a cover over it but this year. The hull exterior seemed in OK shape; no dents however there was a small hole in the transom above the waterline. The paint was scratched up and was peeling off the bottom of the boat. I put my weight on the motor while it trimmed up and the transom was solid. The owner turned the motor on momentarily to show operation. I checked the lower unit fluid and it was a thick green color. The steering hydralic line appeared to be frozen, after all it was about 25 deg out! The trailer was in good shape. Minor rust at the tongue support and on the wheel hubs. The owner said he never had a trailer light go out on him. He was selling it because he got a bigger boat and needed to clear his driveway. He says that he takes this boat out crabbing and used it last season. The seats and carpeting definitely need replacing. The owner indicated that the floor was still good. During the visit the owner's phone was ringing off the hook from people asking about the boat. I ended up buying the boat. I know the warning about never buy a boat until you get it in the water and a mechanic to look at the motor, but at $500 I just could not let this deal pass me by. I know I'm putting the cart before the horse, but I'm going to take the motor to the mechanic for a look see this weekend. What would you have done?

That makes sense. The way it sounded on some of the things I've read made it sound like they're continuously charging while the charging batteries were in use. Maybe it was solar battery chargers.

I joined up with B.A.S.S. last week sunday and I still haven't seen any membership materials in the mail. How long did you have to wait for your B.A.S.S. stuff to get in?

I'm confused about how an onboard battery charger works. I see that they have to be plugged into 120VAC... So how does it charge the batteries while on the water? Do i have to have a power inverter DC-AC to operate and dedicate a battery to power the inverter?

As probably alot of us are, I'm on a budget to get a boat. Question is what would be the best for under $2500. I'm in the upper chesapeake bay, bush river. a) Built up jon boat with late model 20-30HP motor Vintage bass boat with issues I'm pretty handy... I think? or at least more than the average person, and willing to work thru a problem if properly motivated.

Thanks for the replies thus far. Would it be fair to say that by buying 20+, you're basically paying for the motor and hull? I've been in deep thought about this, almost hypnotic. To stay within the economics, the other way is to get an old jon and build a basser from the ground up. This way I know what's in my boat. OTOH, I'm probably limiting myself to under 25HP and I'd really like console steering.

I've also read somewhere that because of the weight glass plows through water rather than glide over it. As mentioned, glass molds can be tweaked to the optimum profile.

Maybe I ought to pal up with someone who has a boat? Maybe fish with him for a season, or just have him look at the boat for me.

What are things to look out for in a used boat? I've been looking around and the 1980's vintage boats are looking attractive (read cheap ;D). Am I taking a huge risk on buying a boat that's 20+ years old? I'd appreciate any advice/opinions.

I drive the Malibu MAXX; a hatchback with a V6. The wifey drives a Honda Odyssey with a 6 cyl. Not sure of cyl configuration. I'm figuring that I get the boat to the marina and dry store it there. All I have to do is to get it in the water each time. Another option that I've been toying with is to get a trailer for my canoe and put stabilizers on it. Maybe I'll start another thread.

I would've thought rear wheel is preferred for hauling.

I guess the hitch will have to go on my wife's minivan?