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Remove the cowl. Look on the bottom of the pan on the port side. See if you can see where the gray hose connects to the black hose coming from the boat. I've seen that connection come apart. Probably due to over trimming the engine and/or not enough slack in the black hose through the rigging tube. Can also check where the hose goes into the gauge. You're probably good there or you would have a wet leg after a short run.

Yes, add distilled water to a level so that the plates are immersed. In a lot of cases, AGM batteries will be heavier and have better ratings for CCA/MCA and Reserve Capacity compared to a wet cell of the same group size. More lead = more capacity and more $$$. I believe one reason that wet cell batteries fail prematurely is that folks don't maintain the water level. Both battery styles need to be charged ASAP when discharged. Personally, I get better service and a LOT fewer headaches with AGM's. Good luck what ever you choose.

Water level must be maintained in a flooded cell battery. Distilled water is recommended. AGM's are sealed and require little to no maintenance. Keep terminals clean and tight whichever way you go.

Try pumping the primer bulb to firm at every restart. If running fuel lines (and bulb) over 3 or 4 years old consider replacing lines and bulb with the new E10 resistant parts. Get the parts from a boat store - not Walmart. Best of luck!

Google "jetskibrian". He is a VERY avid and knowledgeable jet ski fishermen on he VA coast.

Check your manual. My Fortrex has big knob just under the head that you can loosen to rotate the head.

Might try over at the Statos forum on *** (http://www.***/forumdisplay.php?f=52). Good chance those folks will have some info for you regarding that combo.

Some tech's recommend pumping the primer bulb prior to each restart due to the low quality fuel we're stuck with. A battery that is inadequate and/or not fully charged will cause problems similar to the ones you're describing as well. Might be a good time to get it into a good Merc shop and get the service up to date. Good luck!

Added weight is DEFINITELY a factor. Try removing one plug at a time from your new prop to improve hole shot. Set the boat up like you will run it MOST of the time - i.e. light or heavy.

Revo Winch in LH drive is another option.

Also look up C&O Marine Parts in the Nashville area.

Loctite makes a product called "Stik'nSeal". It's good for these types of repairs. Should be available at your local Walmart, etc.

It's my understanding that it has to do with the way fuel and oil are injected into the engine. The two never mix. The use of fogging oil can clog the injectors. Again, IMO, it would be best for the OP to get advise and instruction relating to his engine from Mercury or a Mercury certified tech.

Optimax/DFI engines are different. Suggest you consult your manual or a good Optimax tech. I believe the correct procedure is to remove the plugs and inject a few ounces of Merc Premium Plus in each cylinder. Good luck.

If you're a Costco member, their optical department is good. You must take your prescription, however. Will 2nd the motion for Walmart. I have some non prescription "real" glass polarized glasses from them that have been real good.

In addition to the comments above, IMO, you need to look into changing your fuel lines and primer bulb to the newer ethanol resistant parts. The material in the liner of the older fuel lines will react in a bad way to E10 and cause pieces of the liner to be transmitted to the engine. Get your parts at a boat dealer - NOT Walmart. Start with fresh gas, fuel lines and a clean fuel system on your engine all at once or you will be chasing your tail for a long time. Good luck!

I would do a THOROUGH inspection of the boat and trailer, test the operation of ALL systems, and demand an on the water test even if buying a brand new rig off the show room floor.Would also recommend getting all service items addressed ASAP if you do purchase the rig. Negotiate the cost of the service(s) due in your offer.

I charge them up ASAP when I get off the lake. Leaving batteries partially charged will shorten their life. Then I unplug the charger. Too many bad things can happen to/with electrical devices left energized and unattended for expended periods. If it's more than a few days before I go again, I will plug the charger in and "top off" the charge for the next trip. Usually only takes 30-45 minutes for the lights to go green again.

Use a digital volt meter. A fully charged 12v should read ~12.7 volts. Anything less is a potential problem.

As mentioned above, we're not sure where you're located, But, IMO, the way to shop for a new boat is to "shop" for the best dealer in your area FIRST. Some Bass Pro service departments are OK. Some are dismal. Talk to as many boaters as you can to get an idea of which one is able and willing to provide the service and support you will SURELY need. No doubt they will be able to guide you to a rig that suits your needs. Boat brand should be low on your priority list - again JMHO. Good luck with your search.

Lots of good information in the engine owner's manual. If the owner doesn't have the owners manual for the engine, check with Mercury or a dealer to try to get one. Don't believe there is an oil filter on that engine. Running a de-carbon agent in the fuel (Seafoam is one) is recommended. Mercury Quickleen will be the OEM recommendation. Would run the Merc recommended 2-stroke oil with NO additives in the oil tank. My guess would be Merc Premium Plus. Check with a Merc dealer to make sure. IMO, there is no need to run premium fuel in any engine that doesn't require it. If, like most of us, you can't get 100% fuel, running an ethanol treatment in your E10 fuel is a good idea. Merc "Quickare" is the OEM recommendation. Even though the engine hasn't been run much, you need to add the installation of a fresh water pump impeller kit to your service list.Sounds like a great first rig. Enjoy! NICE post fishncamp!!

Good advice here. You can also get some advice on the optimum setup for your combination. That rig should scare 80 with a healthy engine, the correct setup, and a good driver. Do NOT try to "drive through" the walk. Increase trim, throttle and your comfort level in small increments. It will take some seat time. Be careful!

I'm also a Dual Pro fan. I like their "Pro" Series w/15 amps per bank. As stated above, if you have 3 batteries, get a 3 bank charger. Your engine will not adequately maintain a charge on your cranking battery.

Most OEM's recommend once a year or every 100 hours, whichever comes first. Cheap insurance against a catastrophic failure, IMO.