retiredbosn

AC/DC- Back In Black Lynrd Skynrd- Greatest Hits Motley Crue - Shout at the Devil Guess I'm showing my age.

Congrats

I had a neck fusion in 2007, and a lumbar fusion in 1992 and 2002. Good news is that a neck fusion doesn't take as long to heal as a lumbar. Souds like he is planning a disectomy through a small incision which is easier to heal from than a fusion. I wish you luck, unfortunately I have had several surgeries on my spine. If you want any other information from a patient's perspective just pm.

Just picked up my boat from the mechanics today. I was really worried about being taken for a ride as it was an ignition problem that I couldn't locate using resistance checks, and neither could they. Anyway two power packs, a new impeller and lower unit service later and I'm back on the water. They dynoed the engine, compression checks and everything was with in specs. I don't recall the torque numbers from the dyno, but the compression came out to be 95 on one 92 on two and a drop to 81 on one. I questioned the mechanic who worked on the boat and he said it was within specs and nothing to really worry about. So all in all I'm happy, I felt pretty good considering the engine is a 1987 model, still runs strong.

If it is yen then it will run about 465

After doing alot of research on the lines I'm sold on the hybrid. The qualities of the line are numerous, being bonded to the floro results in a closed cell construction and will not weaken when wet like mono, the floro makes the line much more abrasion resistant, it is denser so should cast farther, make cranks run a little deeper, etc. Additionally the thinner diameter to pound breakage results in a more sensitive line, add to that the floro prevents UV rays from braking down the line as quickly.

Once you get used to your line, you will be able to recognize at a glance the lb difference just by looking. I have three identical set ups, one has 15lb and the other two 12 all it takes is a glance. I have also thought about putting low vis green on one reel to tell the difference easier. But in short I can tell the different lb ratings by looking. Out of 6 set ups I have three different line sizes and I can tell at a glance what is 15 lb, what is 12lb and what is 8 lb. Of course since you are using three different types and sizes use clear, low vis green and smoke that way you don't need to use a sticker or label anything, just remember what line is what color.

watch the flea market here, or do an ebay search. the last one I did resulted in last years Quantum PT reel for 129 shipped brand new, Quantum Accurist CX'x 2 for 99, and the Accurist PT for around 65. This is a good time to buy last year's models at deep discounts, you may end up with a 200 dollar reel for 100 bucks. Good luck.

Other things to consider when purchasing rods, are the resins and types of graphite. How all of these things come into play are beyond me, so I just purchase rods from reputable manufacturers. Like I've state before we are at the point now that the rod technology has surpassed my ability to tell the difference. I have some nerve damage in my arms so a rod that you can feel a fish look at your bait doesn't do me much good. I still have to watch line and keep a finger under the line. Anything past a quality rod with blank through constuction that I can place a finger on the blank under the reel and I'm not gaining anything.

Call your state's attorney general's office and complain to them. A company that crosses state lines to perform work falls under different criteria that one who performs all their work on instate materials. I know you shipped your engine, but if your state titles the engine then you shipped a part of your state to him for rebuild. In short he can get into real trouble real quick doing shoddy work like that.

Just copied a post from another site. Everything not highlighted is the little I know. From the searches I've done this information seems to be have taken from Loomis way back when they still advertised graphite rating content, which they haven't done for years. If that is the case then the content to series rating would be way off as new technology has allowed rod builders increase the graphite content.

You could always take advantage of *** demo program. You register, pay shipping and they send you up to four reels of your choice to test. So in short you can pay 20bucks for shipping get a Tour PT, a Zillion and a couple of others, try them out for a week, send them back, and then purchase the one you like the best.

I have been looking for another article I read that goes into the High Strain graphite. This type of graphite allows sensitivity with less brittleness. In other words a HM rod of 60 million is more brittle than a HS 60million modulus rod, both have the same sensitivity. IM = Intermediate Modulus HM = High Modulus HS = High Strain graphite ***** The first thing you should know is there is no industry standard for IM6, IM7and IM8. Rather, it's a range that manufacturers use to classify their rods according to the modulus content. Modulus is a term that describes the stiffness to weight ratio of the graphite that's used to create the rod blank. Here's how it works.when you cast a lure, the rod flexes with the weight of the lure, storing energy as it flexes. When the motion of the rod stops, the rod flexes and releases all of its stored energy to propel the lure. When you increase the modulus of the graphite, you increase the ability of that graphite to store and release energy. You also increase the speed that the rod releases the stored energy. That in turn, increases the lure speed that is generated in the cast. Increase the modulus and you increase the reaction speed and power of the rod blank. Below is a general example of modulus ratings using G Loomis classes: GLX - 65 million modulus IMX - 55 million modulus GL3 - 47 million modulus (IM8) GL2 - 42 million modulus (IM7) IM6 - 38 million modulus Standard Graphite - 33 million modulus Unfortunately, increased modulus results in increased costs. The highest modulus graphite material costs as much as ten times more than standard graphite. The drawback with increased modulus is the rod blank tends to be somewhat brittle and more likely to break from impact fracture, such as dropping the rod on a hard surface. If you tend be abusive with your gear, it would be wise to back away from the top modulus rods and choose something in the mid range that will offer more durability. Before you purchase a rod, especially the high priced, high modulus, be sure that it is backed by a lifetime warranty. ***** and more ****** Graphite is the most common rod material today, and is the lightest and strongest material. However, there are many varieties of graphite, depending on manufacturing quality and process, and thus graphite rods range widely in cost. Graphite rods, especially higher-end models, tend to be thin and a susceptible to breaking if they are chipped, scratched, or cracked. Lower-end graphite rods, these days, are probably almost as durable as fiberglass rods. Most high-end rods have lifetime warranties, partly because they do tend to break more often. Below are some explanations of rod materials: From Ralph Heidecke: Types of Graphite (IM6 etc) [from Brian Costlow, posted this back in April 1998] IM6 is a 'Grade' of Magnamite, a graphite product of Hercules Inc. BASF makes a similar product, as well as others. The important thing about IM6, IM7, IM8 ratings for fishing applications is the tensile modulus. Most dept. store rods that are graphite composites are around 30-35 million psi tensile modulus. The IM is a shorthand for that tensile rating. IM6 = 40 million IM7 = 41 million IM8 = 45 million Tensile modulus briefly is: (Courtesy Owens-Corning) "When a bar is pulled in tension, it has to get longer. The tensile modulus is used to calculate how much longer it will get when a certain load is applied to it. Units are normally millions of pounds per square inch. Higher numbers indicate materials which will not elongate as much as others when they are being compared under equal tensile loading conditions." That elongation, or elasticity, is what allows the rod to spring and bend back. So (grossly oversimpifying) a rod made of IM6 can be built with similar strength and flex characteristics to a rod that uses cheaper material, while making the tube wall thinner, which in theory makes the rod lighter and more sensitive. On the other hand, just because a rod is built using IM6 does not mean it's a great rod. Exactly how the material is laid up in the blank, whether any other material (other graphite composites, fiberglass, aramid and gel-spun polys for instance) the taper, length, all go towards making a good blank. These things also affect the action (fast or slow taper). Then to make a good rod, you have to worry about the seat and handle, and how it's connected, guide material and so on.

Thanks for the link, never knew there was a site like this. I had used the local state one before but I don't think it is updated like it should be.

My wife did alot of work and went the extra mile for my 40th. Check out the cake, the guy breaking to rod with his line all tangled in the trees is all to familiar. The fish catching the fisherman at the bottom of the cake was a hit. Anyway just wanted to give Kudos to the bride.

I successfuly changed the drive gear and pinion gear on my EXT Pro to a 4:7:1 for deep crankin. I like the reel so much and didn't want to change the type of reel, so for 30 bucks it was a win win for me.

Thanks, I ended up getting the 05 Extreme based on the advice of the local pro, last years model with the ITB braking system. I have been playing around with my set up, a KVD ML signature rod and 8lb test line. I cast the light weight jigs and finesse drop shots with ease. I'm very happy up to this point, I will be able to tell more once I can start fishing with it, it is 28 balmy degrees today, so it will be awhile. In fact up to this point I'm thinking that my spinning set up will be collecting dust for a while.

While I was in the grips of the bait monkey I ended up purchasing several reels. This one was a suprise, I don't even remember buying it, but it came in the mail today. It seems to be a beefy reel, gear ratio 5:1:1, high capacity spool, bait clicker. What I'm thinking is putting it on a heavy fast action rod for the rare times that I catfish, or maybe working heavy baits for stripers. I have no idea how it will cast or anything. Does anyone have any experience with this reel? Am I on the right track for proper use? I could always keep it as a back up for in the rare chance that my EXT Pro that I modified to a 4:7:1 would break down. What do you think?

I purchased a telescoping light bulb changer. The flood lights in front of my house are 20 feet off the ground, I don't climb ladders any more and for the money it cost it was worth it. After awhile it dawned on me to attach a large duolock to the end, snap it to the line and follow the line down the lure, only trouble is if it is over twenty six and half feet I can't get it back, hardly any lakes here that deep anyway. So my light bulb extension now does double duty.

Two of the best pieces of advice I ever got were as follows. Love is a decision, because your emotions always change. When I asked a couple who had been married for 50+ years how they did it, the response was "we never fell out of love at the same time." Meaning that through all the ups and downs one of the two of them always stuck it out when they didn't really want to. Good luck

I couldn't imagine just having one set up! What I would do and what I do is find my gear on sale and I mean close out type sales. For example why spend 278 dollars on a PT Tour reel when you can get it on Ebay for 129 shipped, new and first quality. When you think about it rods and reels are a lot like computers, the newest technology costs the most and is outdated in a year or so. However the technology that is a year or two old is more than you will ever need and a whole lot cheaper, seems like a no-brainer to me. When I hunted I thought nothing of dropping 2 grand on a gun, but that gun would last me and my children and grandchildren their entire lives. Now that I fish more than anything else, I purposefully keep my combos under 200 bucks, because they will not last a lifetime or two, one misstep and there goes your four hundred dollar rod. Example the new Tour Edition rods, have 54 million modulus High Strain graphite, fuji ecs seats and fuji alloy guides, two years ago that rod would have cost 150 bucks, you can buy them now 3 for 100 if you know where to look. Good luck and I hope you find the set up you are looking for. If I had to spend 500 on one set up it would be a Diawa Luna and some rod that I wouldn't even know where to buy.

Becareful when shopping for copolymer lines, especially if you want a hybrid floro-mono line. I found out the hard way that most company's copolymer is a blend of different nylons and has no floro in it. In fact when I questioned a couple of companies about a true copolymer (floro-mono blend) I was always directed to their "floro" lines, which in many cases was just mono with a coating of floro. Due to the high regard that many here have of yo-zuri hybrid I have purchased three spools from BPS for 4.88 for the 1/8 lb spools and 5.88 for the 1/4 lb, which is a great deal. So just make sure you do your homework before buying a copolymer as many companies sell a blend of pure nylons and call it copolymer. There are relatively few true hybrid lines.

At first I thought this thread was about me, just looked in to see what was being said :

Also just to let you know, BPS has last years KVD signature cranking stick on sale for 60 bucks, the crankin stick can be had several times a year for 40. Cheap is also a relative term, all of my rods would be considered cheap to some. I typically buy last year's models at close outs this time of year, I have never paid more than half price for any of my rods. Then again I'm not a tournament guy just fish for fun, but I do like good products, my jig rod is a tour grade pt I got for 40 bucks new, that is the type of deals I look for. Good luck

good and cheap when used together makes an oxymoron. Depending on where you are located, the BPS spring classic starts in five days, I would imagine that you will be able to get the BPS Crankin stick for 40 bucks. If there are no bps stores near you, the nearest one to me is 3 hour drive, then the Walmart should have some Berkley Lightning rods, or Quantum Torsion rods for about 25 bucks. These rods are dead sticks, no sensitivity, but should suffice for a cranking rod. Good Luck.