win222

I recently replaced my 7 year old locator with a HDS-7 with the structure scan. Now I keep getting a low voltage alarm on the HDS-7, which was set for 11 volts, I just changed it to 10 volts, but I'm concerned that this might damage some stuff if the voltage is too low? Here are the voltage readings I took on my new battery: 12.6v at battery with nothing on 12.3v at battery with locators and dash on 12.3v on dash display with locators on 11.8v on HDS-7 display If I use my bilge pump and have other lights on, the HDS-7 display can go to 10.8 volts and set off alarm, or if I use the power trim (with motor off) this also sets the alarm. Do you think that the HDS-7 plus structure scan is drawing too much power off the wiring that was designed for older style locators? Should I run a new wire from the battery to power this stuff? I like it the way it is now so the toggle switch by the key shuts it off.

You can get some really good deals if you shop around. I got a Lowrance HDS-7 and love it. Normally $949.00 Reconditioned unit with 1 year warranty from Cabelas sells for $799.00 usually but was on sale for $749.00 Lowrance still gave me the $100 rebate. Cabelas sent me a $50 off coupon off, I get them all the time. My credit card give me 3% off all purchases at Cabelas, saved another $20 here. New total was $579 plus tax, I was laughing at all the people that are trying to sell these used for $800. Also if you shop in the stores, I walked into Gander Mountain and told them to knock $50 of their LSS-1 side scan, and the guy didn't even blink and said ok, wish I had said $100. You can probably talk them down at any of the fishing stores.

Yes, there is a seal on the prop shaft, and most likely the fishing line broke the seal. It's pretty easy to take apart and replace the seal. One thing you can check is take the top off the motor, and turn it upside down, and see if water comes out of the shaft, if it does, the seal is bad and water is getting in.

There is a 1/2" bolt on the top of the Talon, you need to carry the wrench with you, and just crank the bolt to raise the Talon if you lose power or it breaks. Also my Talon barely sticks up above the motor, and there is over a foot of clearance to make it into my garage, I have a standard 8' door, not sure what height doors the guys have that are having problems.

Hello all, I have seen a few fishing tournaments and I was just wondering why some boats have 3 or 4 or even more fish locators? I understand why someone would have one in front and one in back, but why do some boats have even more? The reason I'm asking is I might add a 3rd on my boat.

Thanks for the tips on what setting to use, I could never find any that I liked, I will try those. I did follow those instructions when I mounted a skimmer type transducer the same ones you linked. I have never seen a fish arc on this locator tho. Are you saying all I need to share the transducers is buy a yellow cable and connect the 2 units? Is there a way to have the shoot-thru hull transducer always show the depth on the map overlay, and use the other transducer to show sonar, without changing settings all the time?

I currently have a HDS-7 and a HDS-5. The HDS-7 in the back of the boat uses a thru-hull transducer and works great for showing me the depth even at full speed, but it is very poor for showing any structure or fish arcs. My question is, is there a way to have my HDS-7 use the thru-hull transducer when driving, then switch over to trolling motor transducer that the HDS-5 uses while fishing? What would I need to buy in order to do this? Would the LSS-1 structure scan allow me to do this? Or would the Navico expansion port do it? Is there any reason someone would have both the expansion port and the structure scan? It looks like the structure scan does everything that the expansion port does plus the structure scan? One last thing, does anyone use the broadband sounder? is it any good for bass fishing?

Hello all, I am looking to upgrade my electronics and need some help on what would be best for me? I currently only bass fish, mainly LM, and spend about 50% of my time around docks, and 50% of the time on drop off's or flats between 5 and 30' of water. I currently have a HDS-5 on the dash, and want to move that to the bow and get a new HDS unit for the dash. I want to spend $1,200 to $1,600 ish. I see there is a deal on the HDS-7 with the structure scan for $1,600 ($200 off). or would it be better to get the HDS-8 for about the same price? I could not afford the HDS-8 and the structure scan... If I get the structure scan is there a way to use my current shoot-thru-hull transducer for the unit in the dash when I'm driving fast with the outboard, then switch it so it uses the transducer built in the trolling motor when it is down? With the structure scan am I able to share way points between the 2 units? Can I use one map card to share between the 2 units? Or are these options only available if I buy other stuff? Any advice/opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Nice forums, glad I found this. I'm looking for any used bass boat in the $6000-$10000 price range. I was only searching for Ranger, Triton, or Skeeter but I found a 1993, 19', Charger bass boat with a 2001, 225 Johnson motor for $6000 asking price. I looked at some of the older posts that say newer Charger boats are ok, but not sure about a 1993? Any advice would be appreciated. Any reccomendations for other brands would be good too. I think the low price on NADA is about $7000?