win222

I got 7 years out of my 1st set of Walmart Maxx 29 batteries, they finally went bad last year, and I was considering the Optima batteries, until I seen the cost!!! So I bought 3 more from Walmart. I also have worked at battery factories, and from what I seen, all brands are made identical, they just slap different stickers on them at the end of the line.

I would check all your battery connections, even if they appear tight and clean, this is a common problem. I would take apart all connections, clean them, and then re-connect them. If that doesnt help, check if your TM has a plug, and take the plug and receptacle apart and check all those connections too.

The primer ball was replaced a few months ago, I'll check into the other items listed. The motor is a 2001, Ive owned it for 5 years and I always use stabilizer with each tank. I know the fuel filter was never replaced, maybe i'll try that too.

Having a minor problem with my motor, at least I hope it's minor and I'm looking for some suggestions. At idle and low speeds under 5 mph, it doesnt want to stay running, seems likes it's running out of fuel, it may have this problem with only one of the gas tanks, but I think its happens on either tank. Also a few times at high speeds, mostly during heavy accelerating it just cuts out for a split second, like it ran out of fuel, but then goes back to normal instantly. Any ideas what might be wrong?

Just a few days after I said Yamaha is the best, mine started having problems, lol. But really Iv'e owned many brands, and this motor has had the least issues of them all.

No, it cant be added to all models, only certain electric steer models, its impossible to add to a cable steer model. Also if your in the market for an I-pilot, I would wait until December, see this link for the newest model: http://www.minnkotamotors.com/ipilotlink/ Apparently you can set way points on your locator, and set the trolling motor to go to them, or spot lock on them

Dont listen to him, and whatever you do, avoid Mercury motors, especially if buying used, Yamaha are bulltet proof, and will never let you down!

I see boats similar to that with asking prices between $800 and $1800 around here, the boat and trailer look like their in good shape.

I have a tandem axel, and if i rock it back and forth, I can push the tongue of the boat over a foot or two, myself, it's really not that hard.

Is the speed controls with a dial that you adjust with your foot? It's possible if you rammed the dial past 10 or 0, you might need to re-adjust it. This would make sense, 4 would actually be your 0 speed, and 10 would be your 6 speed (its off by 4) This happened to me many times, on different TM's.

GPS is a must on any fish locator, even if you fish the same lake every time. Saving waypoints and going back to them within a couple feet is awsome. Finding your way home on foggy days is easy with GPS. Fishing new lakes is so much easier with GPS. Once you fish with GPS you will wonder how you ever lived without it.

I changed the primer bulb today and the fuel lines from the tank to the motor, took forever to prime it, had to pump it about 200 times, but then the motor started right up, without messing with the solenoid. I'll have to let it sit a full day now, to see if it starts without messing with the solenoid.

Hello all, On one of my boats, I have a 1997 70Hp Johnson outboard, about 3 years ago, it would no longer start. I have no clue how to work on outboards, so I took the top off, and wondered what the problem could be? The only thing I seen inside there that I could move was a red level, so i decided to turn it, and somehow magically the boat started right up, lol. So for the past 3 years, I have been pulling the top off, and hitting this lever, which I found out is the fuel primer solenoid or it's bypass, the motor starts right up, then dies, I then have to flip the switch back, re-start it and it runs great all day. Now that I have some $, I want to fix the problem, is the problem the fuel primer solenoid is bad? or could it be the primer bulb on the fuel lines? The primer bulb is really old and hard, I can barely squeeze it any more? I'm going to replace the primer bulb either way. Thanks!

I rate my boat in GPM (gallons per mile) at WOT

Thanks alot Todd, I will try all these setting and get the boat out in the water and let you know. It will probaly be a week or two before I can get on the water.

I currently have 2 HDS units on my boat with the structure scan, and the ethernet connections. I'm having a hard time adjusting all the setting to see fish or struture on the displays. Can someone tell me what to set every setting to, to fix this? I mainly fish 5 to 20 feet of water, and its usually muddy and weedy. I have a built in tranducer on the TM, a shoot-thru hull in back, and the structure scan mounted on the jackplate. I can select which transducer to use on either unit, just to verify one isn't bad, or properly installed, but I can't see any fish, or maybe I don't know what to look for? Thanks in advance for any advice!

The Talon has a fold down bracket, so it only sits a couple inches above the boat, but they say your not suppose to drive with it down. This bracket to fold it down costs extra

I have a Talon, and it works ok, kinda wish I had got the PP instead, the Talon gets stuck easy in the mud, but there is a nut you can turn to manually raise it, only takes a few seconds. But if price and storage space are a concern, then I'd go with the Talon, plus the Talon will have a $100 rebate starting after April 1st, I only paid $1000 for my 8' Talon, and with the $100 rebate, it's not a bad deal, how cheap can you get a power pole? Can you install the power pole by your self? I think anyone can install their Talon themselves.

I had the same noise on 2 different TM's, there are tiny washers that go on the screws when the motor housing is put together, and I bet one of the washers fell off and is inside the motor. This even happened on a brand new TM for me. Did you have the motor apart reccently?

Extension cords cause a voltage drop, chargers are designed to operate on 120 volts, if you use a long cord, and the current (amps) are high, you can actually lower the voltage alot, once the voltage drops under the manufacturers specfications, you can reduce the life of equipment or even burn it up.

I love my I-Pilot, I've gotten use to it, and no problem manuvering around piers.. The GPS functions on it are awsome, I don't think I could ever fish without it. On the down side, the remote and foot pedal are cheap, both broke the 1st year, and had to be replaced,

I pay $170 a year for my bass boat that is worth about $10,000 from Foremost, not sure why some other people are paying more than double, maybe they have $50,000 boats, It sounds like the boat your looking at is about the same price, so I wouldnt pay more than $200 a year. Also around here, outdoor storage run $30 to $60 a month, indoor storage runs $60 to $150 depending on alot of factors.

I'd go with the 10' PP, definatley not the 6' option.

It's hard to tell with the information you gave us if its worth that much. It could have 10k in electronics? Don't be afraid to low ball people, if someone is asking 12.5k ask them if they would sell it for 9k before you even look at it, that way your not wasting a trip hoping they will lower their price when you get there.

Thanks for the advice, the battery is brand new, I replaced the starting battery with the largest multipurpose deep cycle battery. The charging system is fine, I checked the voltage while the battery is charging and its 14 volts, so that should be ok. I have a 3 bank on-board charger, so all the batteries get charged after each use. I did notice that off the battery there is one 14ga wire that goes to a terminal block, that block feeds just about everything on the boat; I'm going to replace that 14ga wire with a number 8ga and see if that helps, if not, I will run a separate wire up to the locators.