Mumpy

This is how we catch them here in the South when that happens http://www.myoutdoortv.com/how-to/freshwater-fishing/bluegill-panfish/popping-cork-rig-video-included

^^^^THIS^^^^ I LOVE Being on the water when the sun comes up. Just reading this makes me want to be back out there!!!!!!

Ken Sturdivant sent me this via Email. http://www.lowrance.com/upload/Lowrance/Updates/HDS%204.0%20software%20update%20from%20the%20website.pdf PRESS ADJUST AND PRESS ENTER and then: SENSITIVITY: Set the amount of power 70% in deep water and 60% in shallow water. AUTO SENSITIVITY: This setting works well in all water depths. If desired, turnoff and use the sensitivity settings above if desire. RANGE: set to your choice so you can SEE the bottom on a FULL screen AUTO DEPTH RANGE: This locks the unit so the bottom is always on the screen. Leave this feature off, unless you want to “scout” an area of varying depths. FREQUENCY: 200 kHz in fresh water. Use 83 kHz a larger cone in fresh water and use 50 kHz for deep salt water fishing past 400 feet. PING SPEED: 16 on the console and 18 on the bow. SONAR OPTIONS: 1. Split screens as needed. 2. Palette sets colors of screens 14 colors to choose from. 3. Temperature graph turn on. 4. Depths line off. 5. Amplitude Code leave off. 6. Zoom Bars off. 7. FISH ID OFF! STOP SONAR: This will “STOP” the pings and freeze the current screen for review. LOG SONAR: This will start up a Log Sonar Screen. This feature allows anglers to record screens currently running for review later. Be sure to STOP LOGGING or the machine will log all it sees. REMINDER! ALWAYS PRESS ”ENTER” TO SET YOUR PREFERENCES. SONAR: Press side arrow: This brings all the main SETTINGS screens. NETWORK SONAR: Leave off until adding another feature: i.e. “SIDE VIEWING”. NOISE REJECT: Leave off, press enter. SURFACE CLARITY: Leave off, press enter. SCROLL SPEED: Set at 8 or desired speed MANUAL MODE: Use this to always “see” the bottom. This overlays previous depth settings and is helpful in “searching” all depths. FISHING MODE: Shallow Water if fishing 80 feet deep or LESS. RESET FISHING MODE: This resets the sonar to default factory settings. VIEW SONAR LOG: Record the current live screens. SONAR INSTALLATION: Set Keel offset leave at 0.0, Water calibration leave at 100%, Water Speed averaging 1 sec, temperature calibration +0.0, Temperature averaging 1 sec, reset water distance, select transducer, pick the one you are using on the boat. PRESS OK TO BE SURE ALL SETTING ARE IN PLACE! PRESS EXIT TO GO TO ACTIVE SCREEN. IMPORTANT INFORMATION. Look on the end of your sonar’s TRANSDUCER. See the silver tag? Now tell the HDS machine that this is the transducer you want to use. The default is UNKNOWN. The most common transducer is HS-WSBL. This transducer choice is SONAR INSTALLATION. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Go to pages and you will see on the top of the screen: “Press menu for data overlay and panel resizing”. “Show” will show the overlay data on the screen. Adjust Panel Sizes will make the “split screens different sizes. “Edit data overlay” will allow anglers to add, move resize and select the data on any screen, sonar or GPS. To toggle from one spilt screen to the other to add, edit or resize any Overlay Data, press the “pages” button twice. Notice the “frame” around the screen turns orange. This tells you that you are now on the “active” screen. Now you can Zoom and adjust each screen on the screen’s menus. On the HDS 8 and HDS 10 Lowrance machines, there are 6 “Quick Buttons” on the bottom of the machine. These “Quick Buttons” on the sonar screen are Sensitivity, Colorline, Range, Frequency, Split/No split and Stop Sonar. On the GPS screens, there are New Waypoint, Go to Cursor, Info, Overlay, Chart Options and Imagery. These “Quick Buttons” allow fast access to the most commonly used menu items. See the links below for information about the NMEA 2000 Networking. http://www.bassfisher1.zoomshare.com/files/Lowrance/Newtorking/Networking_Overview.pdf http://www.bassfisher1.zoomshare.com/files/Lowrance/Newtorking/NMEA_2000_Networking_Starter_Kit.pdf http://www.bassfisher1.zoomshare.com/files/Lowrance/Newtorking/Matrix_of_Networking_Functions.pdf Structure Scan/Down Scan Set UP Lowrance HDS5 and HDS7 machines allow a two way split on the Structure Scan/Down Scan. Lowrance HDS8 and HDS10 machines allow up to a 4 way split screen on the Structure Scan/Down Scan. These pages are also adjustable by pressing pages and the Menu and then adjust the screen as desired. Be sure to press ENTER to accept. Press PAGES and hold this down, and the machine will change to another screen. Press menu to go to Structure Scan. Set CONTRAST SO THE SCREEN IS NOT TOO BRIGHT. Set RANGE at three times the depth, not AUTO. Set Frequency to 800kHz. Set VIEW to 1. DOWN 2. RIGHT 3. LEFT 4. LEFT AND RIGHT. PALETTE: There are 8 palettes available. Pick the palette and press enter. STRUCTURE OPTIONS: Structure surface clarity to off, Structure noise reject off, Flip/Left/Right. Change this for trolling motor mount. Range lines off. Measure distance off. Stop Sonar off. Log sonar off, but if you add this, every time you press the POWER button, you will take a screen shot of the current screen. Structure scan frequencies are 455kHz and 800 kHz. Use 455 kHz to scan out as far as 250 feet each way or one way. Set the unit to 800 kHz when you want to see items in more detail. In most cases, scan on 800 kHz at distances of 100 feet or less. When the screens are split, you can use either frequency on either screen. One thing we have learned using this technology is to pick different palettes and different contrasts. Each palette has advantages and it is best to experiment with each palette and set the contrast up and down to find the best screen. Press PAGES and then MENU and a small screen will pop up that has SHOW, ADJUST PANEL SIZES and Edit Data Overlay. There are many items you can add to each separate screen and they all have advantages. Once you have this open, there will be blue boxes around an item. Press the up or down ARROW and the pages box will move. Now you can edit this item, move it and change the size or bezel. Add what items you want to EACH screen and be SURE TO PRESS ENTER. THIS IS A WEB PAGE THAT HAS LOTS OF EASY TO USE TIPS ON THE MOST COMMON LOWRANCE SET UP PAGES. http://bassfisher1.zoomshare.com/

This is funny, because last week I had a Spotted Bass take one of my Claws off my RageCraw and I immediately took it off, threw it away and put a new one on. 5 casts later, another claw gone, immediately took it off, threw it away, put another one back on. Then my dad say's to me... "Have you never seen a Crawdad with one Claw?" Which got me to thinking... Wouldn't this give the Crawdad a more "Vulnerable" apperance to a fish? lol, just a thought

I just purchased the GoPro Hero HD2 Outdoor Series today, I also had to purchase the BacPac TM accessory and I already can tell I'm going to want the Suction Cup Accessory for the windshield of my boat. I can't wait to start video taping!

Thank you for the post, I've been trying to get myself away from the bank for quite some time now and only recently have I begun to finally win that battle against myself.

Hmmm, I've got a pack of em but never gave them a fair shot. I'll be casting it on my next outing. Thanks fellas

That looks like my Tackle Box, lol No wonder my wife can't pick it up!

http://www.bassresou...fishing-tackle/ Look in the Pinned Topic Senko FAQ - Look Here First

Ok, so I think I've got it. One side will say Old Memories The Other side I would like to say: He didn't tell me how to live; he lived, and let me watch him do it. ~Clarence Budington Kelland What ever Font you choose will be fine, as long as it is all the same. Man I can't wait to see this thing finished!

The leader I felt was too long, it was about 3', I shortened it. The C-Rig was using a 1oz Brass weight with a Glass Bead and I'm positive they were hitting the worm because on the hit that I got on the senko I only got back half the Senko! All in all though I'm happy with that area, I like the point I was fishing, Although I didn't get to fish the Original Main point, I got to see it in person and I liked the looks of it. The Dock that was near by looks to be outstanding and shad were moving in that area like MAD right before dark so I just have a good feeling about that area during day break.

Well, last night was uneventful as far as Catching Bass was concerned. There was a Catfisherman parked on that Main point and didn't leave. Even at dark when I left, he was still there. So, I never got to fish that point. I did fish the other point and positioned the boat as such and cast Jigs and Carolina Rigs on both sides and down the center. I got three bites and never hooked any of them. I'm thinking they were smaller Spots. One bite was on a 12" Junebug worm, The other bite was on a Black and Blue Senko Carolina Rigged and the third bite was on a Black and Blue Senko Weightless Wacky rigged. (Can't believe I missed that bite) but, that's why they call it fishing and not catching.

It must be the Reel Seat because it doesn't have a Threaded hood since these are Deep Sea Fishing Rods, the Reels are Clamped in.

Ok, got it, wish me luck, Leaving for the lake in 30 minutes! I'll update you on how everything went.

Nitro - I moved the boat in the below photo, is this where you would begin? Placing the boat down stream of the point and casting across the point and bring it up and over the extended point?

So, I'm going out tonight after work and give it all a go. Quick question. If you look at the first Picture you see where #2 is marked. To the left of that point you can see a small brown mark, that is also a little point, I seen it on Google Earth. How would you fish / approach these two points? The water flows from the bottom of the picture towards the boat you see, North to South.

My friend is wanting to purchase these Rod and Reels from my Supervisor, my friend lives about 1.5 hours away. He asked me to check the Rods and Reels out and let him know if they're good to go and he'd purchase them. So, I've come to you guys for a question because no one knows rods better than those that make them. The one Rod is good to go along with the reel. But, the other Rod, I can turn the Reel left to right, like the shaft is turning or something. It's the weirdest thing. Do you guys know what is causing this? Thank you and any other information you need from me, just ask and I can reply very quickly.

Well, I was going to tell you my story which was VERY Similar to yours. Wife said I could have a boat but it couldn't be a Bass Boat, So, We purchased a 2012 Nitro Z7 Sport and I had the Trolling motor switched out for an iPilot and I had two HDS Gen2 Lowrances installed with Structure Scan and I'm here to tell you, I'm GLAD I didn't buy a Bass Boat. This boat is all I could ever hope or imagine for. I could go on for DAAAAAYYYYYYS About why I love it so much. Then I seen you had a $2k Budget which that doesn't purchase the Lowrances. Anyway, if I had a $2k Budget, I'd look for a Fish and Ski out there. http://www.nitro.com/boat/?boat=3450

Loving this thread, I'll soon have a tacklebox full of named lures because of it!

Hehe, I knew what you meant, I was just trying to be funny I guess. I swear, I think I’ve become a better fisherman just from this thread alone. There is so much freaking good information here. I can’t wait until Tomorrow!!!!

So what you're saying is for me to establish a pattern I need to Junk fish at least one more time, hehe. Go out, throw the sink at em, catch one, Log it and then try to pattern it.

Thank you guys for the words of encouragement and wisdom, the one thing I'm starting THIS WEDNESDAY, is keeping a Log, I figure I've done this for years, so in years time my Log should teach me enough to catch a few extra fish.

@msolorio - Awesome post man, You got me all hyped up about it now! hehe

I know right? There isn't a defined one that's for sure.

Thanks Tom, I can tell you from experience you don't want to fish the Lake above it during Summer Months. It's filled with Recreational boaters and ski-do's more than any lake around here. I'll definitely keep the Current in mind, if they're pulling water then go to the current breaks, if they're not pulling water then stick to tight cover.