I have to agree. I have many decades experience fishing for bass and years ago, mono was the only choice we had. I caught plenty of big fish with mono and didn't have any knot slippage.
The past 25 years have seen a huge expansion in the types of available lines. So it gets confusing which to use when. Add to that personal style and preferences, and you'll get all kinds of conflicting advice. Fun, eh?
With that in mind, here's my standard setup for jigs and Texas rigged worms:
7' 1" Medium Heavy, fast-action baitcasting rod
Line is usually 15lb straight fluorocarbon line unless I'm fishing vegetation or flooded bushes, then it's 50lb braid - no leader...ever.
Knot: Uni-knot for everything
No snaps or swivel snaps
3/0 EWG Gamakatsu Nano-Alpha superline hooks for most plastics. 2/0 non-superline Nano-Alpha for Senkos, 4/0 superline Nano-Alpha for thick plastics
Drag: I tighten it down all the way, and then back off during the fight if the fish is bigger than 4lbs. Why? You get a great hookset if your drag doesn't slip. A tight drag means a solid hookset. I worry about getting a strong hookset first, and then worry about the drag after I have him. If you pay close attention in my videos, you can sometimes see me adjust the drag while I'm fighting a fish. I want it just loose enough to slip when they pull hard, and not slip while reeling them in. It takes practice to do it during the fight, but you can do it.
Now I can't quite do that with spinning because I use 6lb test fluorocarbon. So I have the drag firm enough so it will slip only if I pull hard enough to bend the rod most of the way. The rod is your main shock absorber, then the drag takes over when the rod is nearly bent all the way. That usually works for me, but sometimes I'll still back off the drag during a hard fight with a big smallie. It is, after all, 6lb test. Also, with spinning gear, never turn the handle while the drag is slipping. That's a guaranteed recipe for line twist.
Hope that helps!