DaveHawkins

All cylinders should be over 100lbs and have no more than a 10% difference in any of the cylinders.

Very nice job!

Good job. It looks great! Are you going to power it with an outboard? I am currently working on an old 1969 14' v-hull Polar Kraft. I love the old Tinny's Dave

How would the sales tax work on something like this? Who would be responsible for it....or maybe both?

I disagree! Most aluminum boats use solid rivets that are compressed mechanically or pneumatically to complete the compression bond. Boats generally do not use blind rivets that are a 2 component rivet consisting of a pin and a hollow rivet. Even if they did, you could simply push out the pin with a pin punch and then cut the head of the rivet off with a VERY sharp chisel. I can normally cut the head of an aluminum rivet off with one easy swing of the hammer and cause little or no elongation of the hole. I have found there to be much more distortion of the hole using a hand drill w/a drill bit. I just thought there may be others out there with similar projects who may need another view point on how to accomplish this task.

If the existing paint is bonded really well, you can just scuff sand it and paint over top of it. If the existing bond is suspect, then you are better off doing what LBH recommended and chemically strip it, then wire wheel it, give it a wash of 50/50 white vinegar and water, prime with zinc chromate, then paint with whatever topcoat system you choose. FWIW, Rustoleum sells a marine topcoat for about $12 a quart. Look up "roll and tip" paint method. Done properly it looks like it was sprayed on.

I use a very sharp scraper chisel with a hammer and just cut the heads off of them. Much quicker and cleaner than a drill bit.

I guess I have a couple of dumb questions...If you are holding the fish by the lip with one hand and then supporting them under the belly with the other hand...how do you get the hook out? Both hands would be busy holding and supporting the fish. Or am I just not getting what's being said? Or is it ok to hold the fish by the lower lip so long as you are not cranking the lower lip at such a great angle that would force the weight of the fish on the jaw hinge?

Another good option is a product sold in Lowes, called Termin-8H20. It is only about $15.00 a gal. It protects from rot, mildew, pests, warping, etc..It says can be used below or above ground great for docks, boats, lanscaping timbers, etc. This is actually the stuff I am going to be using on my 14' v-hull when I get to the transom, deck, and floors. The problem with the department store resin is that it is waxed polyester resin and as it cures the wax comes to the top. Good for a top finish...but needs to be heavily scuffed for any additional coats.

Yes, you can use resin to cover your plywood...and if done correctly, you will have a sealed, waterproof deck. Your 2 choices of resin would be to use either un-waxed polyester resin with cut strand mat fibreglass (CSM) or you could use a low viscosity epoxy resin and just coat it on by itself. The polyester resin will be cheaper than the epoxy.

Rustoleum makes a topside marine paint that I am told works well. I have even found it at local hardware stores for about $12.00 a quart. http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=4

A couple of different options: http://www.iboats.com/Epoxy_Sealer_2lb/dm/cart_id.108502567--session_id.258571696--view_id.169789 http://store.creative-wholesale.com/Home/tabid/118/CategoryID/283/List/1/Level/1/ProductID/1168/Default.aspx?SortField=Free3+DESC%2CProductName

Fiberglass boat restoration can become very expensive and time consuming. Careful inspection of the floor and transom is critical. If the floor has any soft spots, it will have to replaced and chances are the stringers will be rotted also. If the floor and stringers are rotted, chances are the transom wood it rotted too. Take a mallet with you and tap the transom. If there is any hollow sound (especially towards the bottom), the transom wood will have to be replaced. All this will require a fast education on working with fiberglass. Now if the floor and transom are in good condition, most everything else is cosmetic....The boat will probably float safely. BTW...if the trailer is sound....that alone is worth more than the $90.00 you paid for the metal detector. Good luck with it.

If you are going to use PT lumber, a couple of things I would recommend is to buy your lumber and then store in a dry place (preferably indoors) with a fan blowing on it until it is dried out. After It has dried out, any of it that is going to come into contact with the aluminum, I would coat with resin first. The resin will protect the wood from moisture intrusion and also act as a barrier to separate the chemicals in the PT lumber from reacting with the aluminum. Good luck with your project.

It's not as easy as you think. All WR fish get subjected to a wide regimen of testing. The fish is autopsied and they can even tell what Ph it lived in. It better be the same as the Ph in the body you said you caught it in. Just an example, fraud is no joke when you are talking about this may zero's on a possible payout. A WR is a mark of integrity, cheaters will be subject to the wrath of Karma!!! Back to the original question, if you already have sponsors, there may be "record" clauses in your contract. Anyone fishing for a living should have these clauses included in ALL contracts. I wouldn't think it would be easy. I think you took my point of context. Nowhere in my post did I mention deception or dishonesty...I was simply pondering the ability to grow a WR size bass using scientific technology. There would be no reason to not claim it for what it was...a homegrown big WR bass.

I often wondered what would keep someone, most likely a biologist, from growing a world record bass in a controlled environment. With science as advanced as it it today, I bet they could even come up with a food source injected with growth hormones that would make a bass grow exponentially. How many years do you think it would generally take a bass to grow big enough to be a WR?

No, you don't have to register any non-motorized water vessel in the state of Florida. All of Florida's boating laws are available online....if you have further questions.

You guys are teasing us...and we don't like it...I mean were jealous...I mean we can't wait to get them...I mean when in the heck are they going to be able to be purchased again????

Mr. Jones, I would be interested in your fly fishing class. I always wanted to try flyfishing. I live in Ocala and I'm very familiar with the Orlando area. Could you send me a PM or email with details on it. Thanks, Dave Hawkins dhawkins65@yahoo.com

Ocala, Fl. here.

Or more (referring to Florida fishing) Looks like a beautiful place to fish! I grew up next to the Neversink river in NY state and would wade fish different sections of the river...cept, back then I didn't know what a bass was.

I have caught lmb on small water that is very similar to the one in your pic. A good size mouth, decent length...but no girth! I think it's because he was caught it in a tiny pond with minimal forage. I am guessing that fish is older than his weight is telling. He may not have enough to eat to fill out his profile!