Zum

Buy a bigger aH battery lithium, depending on how your fishing doubt you would kill it in a weekend bass fishing.

No electronics(except TM) here but considering a sounder. Id like to map(bottom) the lakes I frequent, more to be able to run a body of water without loosing a prop, skeg or lower unit.

I know this post is alittle old but seen a few ducking boats stacking a jackplate with a kick up plate....gotta be atleast 8"s back.

I think people put top water away to soon. I use them early spring(ice out) till late fall(ice forming). Although,not as good as a jerk bait,they will hit top waterat times when conditions are right(sunny days can be perfect)

I love a 1/8 ounce buzzbait...there light enough that you can fish them right over lily pads,and go slow when you have to.I just get a local guy to make mine. For spinnerbaits I seldom go below a 1/4 but I do have those 1/8 mini strike kings.I find you really have to go slow with them or they roll.

Yes..a goprohero2.I used to use a Olympus tough camera(worked fine)but my wife bought me this for a birthday,still getting used to it. It's a cheap plastic flower box.Good for what you said plus in the summer when it's hot,I can add a bit of water to it so the fish doesn't get burnt/hurt on my aluminum boat.Fishing by myself,good for pictures and verification...I've heard that some fishermen are known to stretch the truth alittle:) Heres on from earlier with alittle water added...under 21"s

I don't stop throwing topwater until the bass tell me. Somewhere around the 30sec mark for the big one. They'll bite topwater at night to... Caught a bunch over 20"s this year,just using topwater but pretty soon the jerk/slash baits will have to take over...brrr

So your saying he couldn't have backed into the water with just a bit of his bunks showing and loaded his boat,like a normal trailer?I'm thinking he could have but maybe I'm wrong. If you offer to help and they don't accept,what happens after...happens.Guess thats one good thing about being in a small town,don't see to many crazy things at ramps or other people actually.

Couldn't watch the whole thing,was getting to ticked. Not a buddy trying to load his boat either but the doorknob filming. I would of had alittle chuckle at the beginning but for sure would of tried to help him out.To say you wish the strap broke is pretty dumb, IMO. I'd feel like crap if buddies boat went off the back of his trailer messing up the new boat/motor,not knowing I tried to help. I'd know I'm not alone or thats what I'll get telling myself anyways.

Why so many holes...corrosion? You may want to use steelflex,try googling it.

Found this diagram,maybe it will help.

I think thats a great deal.The motors running,worry about fixing it when you have to...

I think it might,probably fouled up your plugs. Don't think it's good on a 2 stroke to start with starter fluid.

Not sure how many Ah that battery is? Lets say it's 90Ah;your 30lbs TM at full throttle will draw around 30amp. The math 90/30=gives you around 3 hours(less really)at full throttle. Depends what all day is to you,how long at full throttle and how long not. It might:)bring paddles just in case. Alot of people don't discharge their batteries below 75%.

It was the first time you started it? Was it winterized before? Maybe it was and it takes a bit for it to work itself clean.(thats if you just bought it) How was the gas mixed?

Do you have a console? I'd put it on the port side if you don't...alittle easier to see over(if you sit on starboard side/)

Really?? I always thought you could use the assumption that for every pound thrust,it draws about 1 amp? I doubt a 30lbs TM draws as many amps as a 55lbs TM at full throttle.I might be wrong though. Check around but I think a 40amp braker should do you fine.

That was a good read. Seems like alot of work to clean,remove paint,proper primer,proper paint then cover all your work with treated plywood...that might rub and cause galvanic corrosion is the end:) I know you can also put a barrier to stop the corrosion...that apparently doesnt happen? I have seen some pictures of what treated wood did to a boat where it rubbed the paint off.100 gauge aluminum,half through floor,ribs pretty much all the way through...not good. Anyways,I don't think I'd use it.

I wouldn't use treated plywood. "Standard carbon-steel, aluminum, or electroplated products must not be installed in direct contact with CA or ACQ treated wood".This is a quote from a site I'm not aloud yet to provide. "Perhaps the most important point to keep in mind relating to copper-based wood treatments and galvanic corrosion is to avoid aluminum flashings altogether. Aluminum corrodes quickly in the presence of high copper concentrations"another quote off of a different site Does anyone know if G3(New Orleans)has a class action lawsuit against them because of this? "years ago when the EPA banned the amount of Arsenic used in CCA treatment and they increased the copper concentration to take the place of Arsenic."from another boating forum

jamesriverjets;rockproofboats;mareinc;riverpro-boat;snyderboats These are all good builders,plus theres many more