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Team9nine

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Everything posted by Team9nine

  1. If you want to fix that problem quick, just do what the fly anglers do and clean your line well, then apply some floatant to the end of it: 8-) http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat20431-cat20507&id=0011254319128a&navCount=4&podId=0011254&parentId=cat20507&masterpathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=IJ&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat20507&hasJS=true -T9
  2. This page covers the topic and highlights over half a dozen studies. http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_indiana_bass/2007/10/the-debate-is-a.html It's true, no advantage from a mortality standpoint. But barbless does appear to do much less tissue damage to the fish and is a lot easier and quicker to remove. Largely a personal preference thing at this point. -T9
  3. Expensive - Yes. Overpriced - No. Like anything else, a bait is only worth what someone will pay for it. Just hang around the bass circles and peek in others tackle boxes and you'll see just how many people are willing to pay the current price for them, and for a good reason. That said, I've seen some LC knock-offs that sell for $4-$5 that have produced exceptionally well at times. Still, I'd much rather pay $15 for an LC than $10 for a bag of Yammi's. Your mileage may vary -T9
  4. I installed a rod buckle onto the deck of my 16' aluminum jon boat, just like you see on the larger bass boats. Whether I'm running 15 mph down the lake 8-), or 70 mph down the highway, these have worked flawlessly. Quick, simple, and low cost. http://www.cabelas.com/prod-1/0018118012125a.shtml -T9
  5. BINGO - I've done the same experiment. When I did my experiment though, I kept it up for several weeks to get enough instances of repetition and enough fish hooked to make a call. Any outcome (good or bad) could happen on just a single trip or weekend. After over 3 weeks and 150+ bass landed, I couldn't point to any instance where I thought the barbless hooks hurt me. I smashed down trebles on all sorts of cranks, and single hooks on baits like Chatterbaits, jigs, jigheads and plastic worms. I haven't kept up with smashing down barbs lately, but I certainly wouldn't hesitate or worry about doing it in the future. Most lures with trebles I change out to new micro-barb hooks anyway. I think this is one of those areas where psychology takes over, and change is incredibly difficult for many. -T9
  6. Good advice on the keel weighting with those inline buzz frogs. And the guys are right...the fish could care less whether they are spinning or running upside down. As long as they still kick up a fuss and don't snag any more often, you'll be fine. On things like Spro's, there is a belly weight that acts as the "righter". If you're landing upside down on mats, one trick is to stop the frog from going any further on a cast right before it lands, or even stop it and start pulling it back slightly in mid air. This will force the frog to right itself before landing. Easy to do once you get the hang of it and even easier now that we have braid. If you're fishing light mats or cover, simply pulling them into open water and letting them sit for a second will cause them to roll back over onto their belly most times. On the swinging bit, you have a few options. One is to not give them so much slack, or the converse which is to not pull so hard on the twitch. Another is to play with the length of the legs. Start with a new frog and the very long "out of the package legs" and see what action you get, then trim down to suit your style if necessary. -T9
  7. All of the above is very good advice, and should be read and followed. But if you really want to learn, the best thing you can do is find someone local who is already a really good deep water fisherman and spend some time in the boat with that person. There is simply no substitute for a good learning day on the water with an expert, and no faster way to pick things up. Once you've done that, then you can go out on your own and modify or define your own style or approach based upon your personal preferences. -T9
  8. Like with any other boat, I'd go with the larger 1648. Seems like you can never have enough room to either move around or store stuff, plus the stability of the larger boat will be good. I've got a 1648 riveted Lowe and it does a fine job. It also has the livewell in the center bench and I added a livewell pump to fill up with, so I just use the floor plug as a drain now. Added some decking and storage, some electronics and such, and its quite the little setup. Does incredibly good on gas, too 8-) My average fill-up is less than $7 about once every 4-6 weeks! -T9
  9. Knowledge is certainly important, and everyone can point out an example of someone with lots of confidence but little knowledge and the poor outcome that would result, but that is only one piece of the puzzle (the 'Misinformation' quadrant). You are neglecting the bigger picture. In the larger picture, confidence and knowledge are intertwined. They ultimately help create behavior and trigger action (or create inaction). There is a whole methodology termed Confidence-based Learning (CBL) that covers this subject. In your case, good knowledge but little confidence (in jigs) would ultimately create 'Doubt' and lead to little action or action with hesitation. Every time you hit the water you are faced with a myriad of decisions when it comes to fishing. Lots of baits will work in lots of situations. Sometimes there will be one ideal bait for the circumstances at hand. That ideal bait that fits the situation perfectly will maximize your catch at that moment. What causes you to pick one bait over another given what you're facing? Do you always pick the ideal bait right out of the box every time? What causes you to change baits and why, and after fishing a bait for how long? If you just enjoy the outdoors and want to catch a bass, none of this really matters. But if you want to try and catch a lot of bass, a lot of the time, then you should be paying attention. 8-) -T9
  10. I agree with your definition of the word. My question is why is the above considered critical in one's chances of catching fish? If you've studied sports psychology at all, you'll find your answer. There is a well documented connection between confidence and performance. It's why some people or teams "choke" under pressure and why others excel. It's why Tiger nearly always wins with the lead going into the last round, or why MJ always seemed to pull off the winning shot. Or why otherwise really smart kids score poorly on tests. Anglers and angling is no different. The only way we catch bass is by them biting our baits. That completes the connection. If you have no confidence in a bait, not only will your mental outlook suffer, so too most likely will your physical performance (catching bass). I take you and your buddy to the local pond. You each have the same outfits and are equally skilled at catching bass. I give you a Budweiser beer can crankbait to fish with (you've seen them), and I give your friend a new Lucky Craft crankbait. One of you will be declared the 'World Champion Pond Angler of 2008' ;D, Who do you think will win and why? How much confidence do you have upon each of you receiving your bait for the contest? Simple fact is though that you're both fishing crankbaits, right? If you actually catch the first bass of the contest on that Bud bait, what does that do to your confidence? Do you suddenly think you might be able to beat your friend? How does your friend feel when you have him down 3 fish to none on the Bud can? Think he starts to get a little disheartened and disbelief? Why should he, he has a Lucky Craft tied on. He's starting to lose confidence. He's starting to question his bait or his ability. If you have confidence in a bait, you'll simply fish that bait harder, smarter, and more attentively than if you don't believe the bait is any good, which will frequently translate into the number of bass you're likely to catch that day. -T9
  11. Oops, been down a couple days and just now seeing this. Here is a link to my little jon boat remodel this past winter. http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1209601311/0#0 -T9
  12. Confidence is merely a mental state of mind that may OR may not be supported by data, logic, reason, experience or outcome. -T9
  13. What setup are you throwing? Rod, reel, line, lure... You might just have a mismatch in equipment for that technique. -T9
  14. Used to do it quite frequently, but I don't believe in doing it all the time, or just doing it haphazardly. There was always a mentally stated timeframe and objective. Some days it was just how fast could I put 1 keeper in the boat. Others it was best weight in a given amount of time. Still others it was simply most fish caught in a specified time. The reason for this is because these are all unique situations that should be practiced for specifically. This format also carries over into things such as efficiency. Another rule was never to practice for a real tourney under these constraints. Worse thing I ever saw people do (IMO) was to fish a tourney and use it as practice for another tourney (usually a larger one) the following day. In practice my goal was to eliminate water. Eliminating water frequently means not catching much. You should never put yourself in a position where you are trying to practice and put fish in the boat while money is on the line. You need the freedom to be able to blank and eliminate things, try off the wall spots or off the wall patterns, or do something different than what you normally do in order to try and find something special. It is very hard to do that correctly when $$ is on the line. So I say keep doing it, make each practice done like that more specific so you can compare results and either see improvements or identify weaknesses, but don't do it all the time. You need "play time" to test new baits, check new areas, learn new techniques without any added pressure. -T9
  15. Hard to say without seeing your boat. What material is the deck made out of? How solid is it? I customized my jon boat and built the decking out of PT plywood. To install storage, I cut out the door, trimmed all around by about 1/2-inch to accept carpeting and then installed with hinges (can use piano type like in a bass boat or door type). Will have to have some support underneath though for holding the lid in place. I used L-angle aluminum bracing on mine, but you could use other options depending on your exact setup. Another possibility is to just build an add-on storage area in one corner of the floor of the boat. This would be pretty simple and easy, as long as you have a little room to spare. You can get an idea of these different suggestions that I used by looking at the pics in this thread I posted. http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1209601311/0#0 -T9
  16. Sure it will add weight, but you have to consider the trade-offs. Customizing gets you good looks, carpeted (quiter) floors, lots of little accessory perks like tackle and rod holders, livewells, bilge pumps, storage, creature comforts, etc. But you'll spend money, add some weight and slow down your speed a little in the process. Ultimately everyone has to decide for themselves what the happy compromise is. I went the upgrade route and couldn't be happier. You can get more detail in the following link. Mine was a 16' jon boat (Lowe's). http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1209601311/0#0
  17. No, I think he meant Lowe, the boat company. I've got a 1648 Lowe jon (16' length, 48" width) and I love it. Agree with the other poster that you should look for something wider, more near the 42"-48" range for that length. Narrow is usually tippy. Get online and look at a few manufacturers and see what models they make. Definitely lean toward the concept of wider is better. -T9
  18. Studies have shown that a bass population can frequently be broken down into two groups: 'Homers' and 'Roamers' How large that home range is depends on things like appropriate structure, size of fish involved, numbers of bass involved, and abundance of prey items. A certain amount of movement within a home range is normal, especially over a season which includes things like spawning activity. Some really large bass like in John Hope's studies literally "lived" in the exact same spot day after day with just feeding sorties over a defined hunting area as the only location change. Smallmouth tracking studies in my area have also shown some strong affinity to specific pools from year to year, with most fish never leaving that pool. On the other hand you have the roamers. These are your typical schoolies that run with the shad, following them around the lake and always staying close to their food supply. Additionally, some tourney released bass that have been displaced a good distance from their "home" have been documented to basically turn into roamers, always on the move and never really settling down for any length of time. So it does depend to a certain degree on the lake and the exact circumstances. -T9
  19. I've always teetered on the fence on this one until recently. After reading the study I put on my site a few days back, I'm leaning more and more toward the side of believing in being able to trigger a bite - literally. An unconditioned "bite" response 100% of the time is some pretty strong evidence. I could easily imagine a crankbait or some other lure getting zipped by a basses face at just the right angle or pressure to trigger this response. 8-) Has opened my eyes and my thought process a little bit - got me thinking... Can't really answer this one. I've seen David in seminars and have a lot of his material filed away in my library. If I had to guess based on what I know of him I'd say isolated cover objects like a single stump or rock, etc. are what he is referring to. That said, in cases like this, an "ambush point" is a pretty vague thing and can mean lots of different things depending on the intent and understanding of the user. Not quite as specific as say "cover" and "structure". I try not to over interpret some of the stuff I read, opting instead to put my spin on what I think something means based on my understanding of the subject. May not be right or wrong, but it will at least make sense to me ;D BTW, nice looking water above... -T9
  20. Paul, obviously our "guesses" are all theory based on what and how we catch them, but I think RW's comments above are a good starting point. In a current situation like a river or a TVA type impoundment where they generate water, angles are very important. From a general structure point of view on a non-current lake, then I think you have a few scenarios at play. One is RW's thought about there to feed and just being in close proximity. That works for groups of feeding bass or bass that are what I would call above baseline as to feeding stimulus or mentality. These are the easiest of the situations. Bass, whether individuals or small packs moving up on top of structure or along edges looking to feed can often be triggered just by getting a bait near them. But there are a lot of possible specialized scenarios. One is pressure/conditioning. Bass get used to seeing baits worked from the same direction all the time on certain lakes. One in particular near me comes to mind. Throw shallow and work deep only works on the "easy" days. Most times if you throw deep(er) and work up the break, making more contact and creating more disturbance, you'll catch bass going right behind other anglers. Another is individual bass sitting on individual pieces of cover. A single large stump on the edge of a point as an example. If that fish is neutral or inactive, he is probably sitting in a very specific spot in relation to that stump, facing a certain angle or direction. He may or may not see your bait the first time through. If you're moving along you could easily pass right over with the wrong cast and never know that fish existed. If you know that stump is down there though, you can take your time and slowly move around that stump throwing from different angles and trying to figure out exactly which one will trigger the bite. That "trigger the bite" deal is the whole key, especially for groups of bass. You really need to play with everything from bait types to angles to retrieve styles trying to figure out how to get a bass to react. So many times if you get one bass to bite, that triggers the group and they all start looking. Their baseline attitude goes up quickly. Then it is a matter of speed and efficiency, because often you'll start pulling those other fish away from the structure/cover as you keep hooking bass. Others actually follow or compete, making short dashes looking for the next meal to target. When I post those pics on my site of doubles (or make mention of that), that is a perfect example of this. One bit, another one moved with and tried to outcompete the other for the same bait - both get hooked 8-) There are probably more down there with them. They're not going to go back down though and sit all perfect in relation to a cover object. At that point they're looking to feed and just getting close as in RW's comment then applies. The deal for me is always taking the time to thoroughly graph and understand an area the first time I come across it. I want to know where the bottom changes are, where the cover objects are, which side has the sharpest drop, how flat and at what depth is the feeding shelf, etc. Once you have that compete mental picture, you can then not only formulate an initial approach based on how you think is best to fish the location, but you can also visualize alternatives if that first approach doesn't work. As individuals, bass have certain personalities on any given day based on all the existing weather/water/forage conditions. Some days paralleling the break doesn't get it done, when banging the bottom perpendicular until you fly clear of the break into open water does. SOme days your bait never hits the bottom before it gets intercepted, other days you'll never get bit unless you literally hit the specific "break on the break". That to me is the fun part of deep water fishing. -T9
  21. Not an engineer, but I've owned a bunch of different MK motors. Call it CV, Pulse Modulation or Maximizer, what ever you like, but it will let you run longer at most speeds for a given battery size. The slower you tend to run, the greater the savings. On the speed deal, not much difference on the first 4 levels of forward regardless of which unit (over all thrust), but there is definitely a difference at speed 5. This is because on units like the Endura, the first 4 speeds are roughly equally split over just 50% of the rated thrust. For example, if you have a 40# thrust unit, speeds 1-4 will be about 5#, 10#, 15# and 20# thrust respectively. When you switch to speed 5, you'll get all 40#. May not seem like a big difference just riding along, but put a GPS to it to get actual speed difference and it will be noticeable. Last thought, just my experience, but you will almost never go wrong or regret getting a larger TM. ;D Sooner or later they'll be an occasion where you'll wish you had larger than whatever you get. -T9
  22. Just need to mail it to them with a check 8-) Here's the details... http://www.igfa.org/ScaleCertificationInfo.pdf -T9
  23. Will never happen, but would be very cool. While we're at it, how about making line manufacturers state their actual breaking strength on the package? Don't claim to have the strongest mono on the planet when all you're doing is sticking 17# line in a 10# box ;D -T9
  24. What George (and a few others) & Paul said: Chatillon or Boga; Both certifiable by the IGFA and accurate as hell. I use a certified Chatillon myself. Most probably don't want or need this level of accuracy though. -T9
  25. Oh, the tangent I could go off on ;D 8-) : 8-) ;DOptimal Foraging Theory (OFT) - Say no more! Big Bass Aren't Lazy, They're Efficient That leads us into our couch potato theory on bass and one of the biggest misconceptions that you'll frequently read. What the authors are really referring to in all this talk is what scientists call "Optimal Foraging Theory" or OFT. Unfortunately, most bass anglers and writers screw it all up. OFT does not mean 'eat the biggest thing you can find' and pass on the rest. Nor does it mean sit on your butt and wait for a big meal to swim into your mouth. It is balancing the energy output against the energy gained by consuming something. A few of the core principles with OFT. 1-As the prey size increases relative to a given predator size, capture success decreases. 2-As prey size increases relative to a given predator size, handling time increases. 3-Finally, as prey size increases relative to predator size, profitability increases up to a point. After reaching an ideal point it decreases with further increase in prey size. This is what a bass has to deal with in the environment in which it lives. Bigger isn't always better, as much time can be wasted trying to chase down and eat a prey item that is larger than optimal. This is why a big bass angler in California can get away with throwing a 10" trout lure while a big bass angler in Texas can't do so as easily. It doesn't preclude being able to throw giant things, it just states that you might not be as successful. And even California bass have their limit. I've been hanging out over at Rob Belloni's great website Calfishing reading through the forum archives. Tons of great info in there and Rob has a great sense of "down to earth" approaches and keeping things simple. Back on point, even Rob has stated that he keeps and throws a 16" bait at times but has yet to get bit on it. So even California giants have their limits. As you read more about Optimal Foraging Theory you'll find that things in the big bass world make a whole lot more sense. And the science and research will support it. Another component of OFT states that as forage density increases, diet specialization starts occurring. Bass can afford to be more picky when more food is readily available to them. So a big bass doesn't have to take chances on a big bait when lots of acceptable sized food is available to him. Why try and chase down one giant shiner when you can easily consume 3 mid-sized crawdads with less effort (just an example). Habitat makes a big difference and OFT can be used to explain feeding preferences among bass. There is a cool study that detailed this behavior with smallmouth bass and crayfish foraging. In this study, when crayfish were located on sand bottoms smallmouth bass ate all the smallest craws first. The larger the crawdad, the longer it took for the bass to eventually eat it because it would exhaust the population of smaller sized craws that were the easiest to consume (less handling time) first. However, on gravel/cobble bottoms, small crayfish were avoided and mid-sized crays were preferentially chosen because it took too long to try and root out and consume smaller craws that could hide and escape predation more easily in the spaces between the rocks. Larger craws couldn't hide as well and subsequently, smallmouth bass would target and eat them first. OFT also covers "Patch Use." As I stated, a bass isn't lazy but it is efficient. OFT details and explains why some fish are home bodies and some have to roam more. A big bass wants to use as little energy as possible consuming prey. John Hope detailed in his book/studies Tracking Trophies how giant Texas bass would have a very predefined and definite hunting ground where it regularly searched for food. Big bass usually wouldn't cross over into other bass' territory. As long as all it's food and energy requirements can be met, there is no need for a bass to leave an area. Some times this can be a very small area. Other times a fish either eventually has to abandon it's home range area or increase it's search area for food to meet its dietary requirements. Again, this was also documented well with smallmouth bass, too. The April 1997 issue of In-Fisherman has an article entitled "Homing On Big Smallmouth." It details the tracking research of Dr. Mark Ridgway and Barry Corbett, basically coming to the similar conclusion that smallmouth will stay in an area and hardly move if there is plenty of forage available to them. In less fertile areas, smallmouth have to find several different feeding areas and "make the rounds" as necessary in order to obtain enough suitable forage. So the next time you read an article about bass and their feeding habits, keep all this information in the back of your mind. And if the author starts talking about Big Macs, sirloin steaks and thinking like a big ole' lazy bass, you better run fast! -T9
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