Team9nine

Just another color to have. And to think, just a year or two ago you could go into that same BPS and all they tried to sell you was a bleeding bait with red all over it, because it was THE greatest thing since sliced bread. :-/ -T9

Yes...to all of them ;D Start with a small hole and only make it bigger if you need to to remove the shot/balls. Usually drill in the belly or the throat. Use a small plug of some sort like a rubber T-stop or a small piece of cork to fill in the larger holes. Sand and epoxy as needed. Might be able to get by with just epoxy on the small holes. Yes, you'll ruin some baits by doing this as they require the shot as part of their balance system. Others it doesn't make a difference. Won't know for certain until you try, but that's part of the fun of experimenting. Same with depth. Some will run shallower, some won't be affected much depending on number and weight of shot along with diving bill type (if it even has one). -T9

If I'm reading his post right, I think what he's after is what is referred to as 'hunting", a trait exhibited by some crankbaits as opposed to what baits to use for 'searching' or covering water. A crankbait that 'hunts' is one that is "on the edge" as far as tuning goes. Instead of running in a really nice straight line and rhythm (like a Rat-L-Trap does), a crankbait that hunts starts to run wide and a little off center. Then, just before blowing out completely it rights itself, straightens out briefly and then will frequently repeat the behavior to the other side, always trying to 'hunt' to find center. This erratic action can be a trigger for strikes. Some of the original hunting type baits were things such as Mudbugs and several versions of Bagley baits. The wood baits seem to exhibit this action more so than other material types. I also have some custom D Baits that have the right action. Thing is it is largely unpredictable. You can buy 10 of the same bait off the shelf and only 1 or 2 might have that 'hunting' action. Once you see it in a crankbait in the water, you'll always recognize it. It's one of those things that is hard to describe, but visually pretty easy to recognize. -T9

Not sure where you heard the "rumors" but it is a bunch of bull. It resists twisting better than most other line types and is about as user friendly in terms of "memory" as you could want. Now if it does get wrapped around a tip or you get a wind knot, you'll probably have to cut it out, but a lot of that can be eliminated by just selecting your braid based on the diameter appropriate for your reel and not the pound test rating. In other words, if you typically use 8 or 10 pound test mono, then go with something along the lines of 20 pound test braid. That will also go a long way in helping with "digging" which can happen at times with braid. -T9

Unpegged, no question... -T9

And I thought only a Biosonix unit could accomplish such a feat ;D Thaks for the tip Catt...

Let's compare apples to apples and keep the braid out of it 8-) The diameters don't look all that different until you think in terms of percentages. Using your numbers above, P-line is 17% - 27% thicker than all other lines you list. Here's a more encompassing list of line diameters for spools rated as 10# test by the manufacturer: P Line CXX extra strong, crystal clear .0145 Berkely Big Game Hi Test Electric Green .014 Makima Ultragreen .014 Maxima Chameleon .014 Trilene XT .0135 Gamma Copolymer Competition Grade .013 Stren Original .013 Sufix Tritanium Plus .013 Trilene Maxx .013 Yozuri Hybrid .0125 Stren Extra Strength .012 P Line CFX 100% Floro leader .012 P Line Floroclear Copolymer .012 Cabela's Pro Line Low Vis Green .012 Cajun Red .012 Ande green .012 Sufix Seige .012 Izorline XXX Super Copolymer .012 Izorline Platinum .012 Sufix Elite .012 Big Game clear .012 P Line Evolution .011 Stren Magnathin .011 Seaguar Fluoro 100% leader .010 Any guesses as to whose 10# line out of the bunch breaks highest at over 22# ??? If you guessed P-line CXX, you might be a winner !!! ;D Any correlation to the fact that it is the largest diameter 10# line on the market ??? Most all companies are guilty of doing it to some degree as there is no standard for how you label your line as to breaking strength. It's purely subjective and up to the discretion of the manufacturer. P-line is really good stuff and as mentioned, I use CXX, Fluoroclear and their pure fluorocarbon lines at times. All I'm saying is don't brag about how your P-line is the strongest stuff out there without a little realization and recognition as to why. -T9

I always thought the 'P' should stand for "ploy"-line or "prank"-line. Quite possibly one of the best marketing campaigns ever created in the history of fishing. Slap a 10# label on a spool of 20# line and advertise how strong your line is. Once watched a seminar here where Dion Hibdon tried to explain this to the crowd, and the poor folks just didn't get it. "Yeah, but Dion, I'll straighten hooks with my 15# P-line before the stuff breaks!". ;D Maxima did it first, but P-line did it better! -T9 (Does use P-line from time to time. I'm just saying...)

I'm actually pretty happy about all the attention, because it has put a stop on all the talk about 'RED' and 'Bleeding' ;D I can now go into my local tackle shop and no longer have to look through aisles and aisles of baits trying to find one that DOESN'T have red splashed all over it! -T9

Probabaly depends on your exact hull setup on the jon. I've had some mounted just slightly to one side or the other of center/the nose and it didn't hurt. I personally wouldn't want to go all the way to one side or the other myself, though I can't speak from experience on that one. My current jon boat that I remodeled went right on center. If you've got a slight V to the front you can angle the bracket a decent bit just like on the fiberglass bass boats and still have it drop near center. -T9

You're not dreaming. Larew made such a creature as well as a floating model. Not sure what happened to them but I know they clearanced the heck out of them many years ago when the local sporting goods store closed. Might find them on E-Bay if they're still not made. Several companies do sell just the skirt collars though. You could always buy those and add them to any existing craws you might have to get the same basic effect. -T9

Gammi makes odd sized trebles. I've replaced a bunch of mine. Do a search on the Net and you'll find them. I was thinking I bought mine from Tackle Warehouse. -T9

Here's mine... http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1209601311/0#0 If you need more details, click on my name to view my profile and get a link to my website (or click the WWW. link at the bottom of this post). I've got lots of pictures and details there under 'Custom Jon Boat' in the archives. -T9

x2 - Been doing it this way for years and years (and years) and never had a problem with one in all that time. -T9

I've got a pair of the 2500's myself. I'd get that size of the 3 you listed (the larger of the three), if not bigger. Smaller number = smaller size. -T9

I've posted about it quite a bit, and it varies from water to water, but a majority of the time it seems like fish will hang around the immediate (1 mile) marina/release area for the first 30 days or so. After that, they will continue to disperse, but the largest majority will still stay within a 3-5 mile distance from release in most case. There are quite a few studies and research papers online now detailing this subject, just takes some time to look for them. -T9

As stated, a lot of people will just keep on fishing as usual, but we're definitely losing some anglers along the way. I've documented and posted about our states tourney participation, and there is no doubt that it is declining, at least with the larger state circuits, both team and individual tourneys. We're now down to about half as many boats as what showed up on average just 5 years ago. That's a pretty hefty drop. Our circuits have also increased entry fees, which starts a vicious little circle going. And I keep hearing that sponsor committments have pulled back for this year, although that still remains to be seen since we don't start up for another month. In actuality, a few less boats on the water would be a nice thing in a way. -T9

Depends on make and model, but you should be fine. Ideally you'd want one of the infinitely variable models for your speed control. Lets you always pick the right speed for the conditions and setup. Most models now days are set pretty good when it comes to speed selection. I know on the MK that I have, the 4 lowest speeds are just increments that don't exceed half of the available thrust, so they work fine for fishing. Only on speed 5 does it increase to full throttle. -T9

x2 - I'm not cutting anything off of my high dollar hooks ;D In most cases a simple switch in either bait style or technique wll accomplish the same thing without ruining your trebles. Not all lure designs are created equal when it comes to ability to come through cover. -T9

Pretty much one of those things where once you have one, you'll never go back to not having it. Makes driving a boat no different than driving a car...except no brakes ;D Biggie is the safety factor already mentioned on anything high-speed. Biggest downfall is if you have any stretch of water that has a very long idle zone. -T9

Paul is on the right track with this one. The wording is a very simple analogy that anglers can use based on limnological principles. In fisheries research they use a tool called a secchi disk, a black and white quadrant disk lowered into the water to determine visibility. You can do similar with a white lure. Anyway, the principle in play is at approx. 3 times the level of visibility of your lure is also the level at which light diminishes past the mark where respiration and photosynthesis match. Deeper than that and respiration is greater and likely to lead to oxygen debt or anoxic conditions, making unsuitable conditions for fish life. It is just a simple rule of thumb though to help guide a quick decision, and certainly not applicable all the time. -T9

No fancy stuff here. I use about 1/2-inch of lighter fluid in the bottom of a Dixie cup. Drop the bearings in on their side. Swirl good for a minute or two. Flip bearings over and repeat. Spin dry, oil and replace. I always do this in the garage where I have better ventilation with the garage door open. Not sure how thorough of a technique, but I've got a whole bunch of 10-15 year old Daiwa baitcasters I put through a pretty heavy tourney regimen each year and the bearings have never failed after doing this every winter. Still running original stock in all reels. -T9

Hey, I'm here in Indy also and the upsizing works at times. Basically it is just showing a fish something different than what they are used to seeing. One of the places I've seen this work really well at is the Ohio River. Everybody thinks high pressure, 12" bass = finesse. I've known guys who do really well upsizing baits, like using #1 jumbo frogs on their jigs as trailers, or throwing 5/8-oz spinnerbaits with big willows. Never hurts to try something different on our waters. -T9

This one is the best on the market for non-technical/routine applications: http://www.cabelas.com/prod-1/0012329014907a.shtml If you don't want to drop that much $$ on a unit though, you can get by, albeit somewhat less accurately with any of the digital readout units with a long cord similar to this one, keeping your lakes depth in mind: http://www.cabelas.com/prod-1/0036368018444a.shtml -T9

I've got full access to all the papers listed in their entirety, but that would be a ton of reading and typing on my part to summarize them all in detail Probably wouldn't make much difference. When fish die from being hooked in the esophagal region it is usually because the point punctured a vital organ inside the body cavity that lies along the esophagus, not because the esophagus itself was damaged. Barbs might do more damage, but a puncture to the heart or liver is probably going to be fatal regardless. Shockingly, in cooler water (<75 deg.) mortality is basically zero for the times stated (up to 15 minutes exposure). Probably much higher in warmer water but that wasn't tested in either paper linked below. Here you go: http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_indiana_bass/2008/08/re-examining-holding-your-breath-guidelines.html -T9