Team9nine

Check out this thread if you haven't already seen it over on the Tackle Forum where guys list their 3 favorite cold water baits. Should give you some real good ideas as well as what the "favorites" tend to be. http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1268337352 -T9

Really just depends on your particular lake. Ice just came off the local reservoir here this past Thursday and the bite is already "on" pretty good. Each lake and locale is different and you need to try and figure out what makes the fish "tick" in your lake. One word of advice I would give you though is don't just blindly accept a slow bite regardless of water temp or season. It's frequently a lot better than most guys believe or experience. -T9

The average water clarity on the lakes I'm fishing ranges from 1.5'-3' typically, especially during summer with algae and plankton blooms, but toward the end of the season last year our water cleared up to the point of having visibility in the 4'-6' range. Even with the higher clarity of water in November and December I still had no problem catching bass on the flame green Fireline and red Power Pro braids. I didn't even bother throwing mono or fluoro those last couple months, or using a leader of any sort. -T9

Much like bait colors, it only matters when it matters, which is usually a lot less often than people realize. On my waters I've been catching hundreds of bass with flame green Fireline tied directly to the bait without any leader. I also use regular fluorocarbon, clear, green and blue fluor. monofilaments, and yellow, smoke, green and red braids. I catch plenty of bass on all of the above, so do what seems comfortable or right for your waters or your peace of mind. -T9

You may not see any knicks, but fluorocarbon doesn't like to be pinched, kinked or bent sharply. It damages it internally. Bobby's sol'n is a good one. Another is to first pinch your shot on near the end of your line and then run it back and forth a few times to establish a little groove, then slowly move it up your line to position, cut off the end that you used to wear the groove and then tie on your hook. One last option is to go to a mojo setup with the rubber peg and cylindrical sinker. -T9

Always hard to say without seeing someone elses water. That said, the ice just came off our local reservoir about a day and a half ago and I picked up 3 from the bank this evening after work. There are almost always some bass up shallow, so don't rule that out completely, and don't let the cold water/slow baits mentality fool you either. Traps and cranks can be some of the best baits this time of year, along with the slower drop baits. Mine all came on cranks tonight. Just keep going after them and mixing it up until you figure it out. You'll be a better angler for it after you do -T9

I'd have to go with the BPS Caterpillar Stud Fry, now discontinued. Flip it, texas-rig it, Carolina rigged, wacky, weightless skipped, it does it all and flat catches fish, and good quality fish, too. Found some packs in an estate sale last year and was able to get restocked thankfully. -T9

Hair jigs Blade baits suspending jerkbaits -T9

Depends on your exact definition of "migrate", but studies have shown pretty conclusively that many, if not most, bodies of water have two groups of bass, "homers" and "roamers". Usually the "roamers" are the much smaller segment of the population, but again it varies by lake and species (spots vs. smallies vs. greenies). -T9

At the moment there is nothing in the scientific literature to support such claims for these products, outside of the studies carried out by the companies themselves (which aren't published). They're not just trying to sell this stuff in the bass world either. Several different companies have various "products" on the market, all claiming basically the same thing. Until such time as there is some credible evidence (research) that what they claim is actually occurring, I'll remain a skeptic. There will always be those willing to pay a good amount to have the next "sure" thing or to be one step ahead of the competition. As has been suggested, if they work so well it won't take too long for the market to sort it all out. I'll be watching with interest on the sidelines, still catching bass on my $3 20-ct. bags of non-UV plastics in the mean time. 8-) -T9

If you're going to toss both cranks and spinnerbaits on the same stick, I would default toward more of a moderate action rod, probably MH in either a 6'6" or a 7" (or an odd size in between). You can easily get away with throwing sp'baits on a rod with a more moderate action, but you'll probably pay a price in some missed fish by trying to toss cranks on a fast action rod. I've got a Loomis SBR rod (XF action I believe) that feels great when winging shallow cranks, but it absolutely sucks when it comes to hooking percentage compared to my moderate action cranking sticks. -T9

X2, and line tests back it up. -T9

Speaking of plastics, a few of my favorites from my prized collection of walking worms -T9

x4 or x5 or whatever the count is up to 8-) -T9

I always liked the off-limits period myself. Getting harder and harder to find local circuits that have them though. -T9

X2 - think of it more like the line being coiled, similar to a telephone cord. Its taken a "set".

I rarely use clips as I've had a few issues over the years with several different types. They are very convenient though for those who like to change baits frequently. I know several who seem to use them without incident, just not for me. Additionally, certain lines and knots will hold better with a split ring than a snap due to tying to a piece of metal with a larger diameter. -T9

Larger is always better on a spinning reel 8-) within reason Go with the 2500 -T9

Blow the whistle - personal foul! Distorting the facts. 15 yard penalty. Automatic first down!

I'm a numbers guy myself - always have been, so scenario #1 for me. -T9

X2 - Finesse jigging, dropshot, grubs/tubes, small (<4") plastics 8-) -T9

I pretty much agree with what Paul has stated. There is at least one study that has documented a probable connection between UV vision, YOY largemouth and feeding. As mentioned though, the bigger question is whether this ability carries into adulthood, and from the most recent research I've seen in largemouth bass, there is no indication/mention that it does. As such, I'd be hesitant to lay out that kind of money for a soft plastic bait based on what appears to be unproven science. -T9

Pork will work well in any water temp, just like plastic will work well in any water temp. The determinant for me is how much jig fishing I'm going to be doing. On some trips I know I'm going to have a jig rod in hand, flipping and pitching nearly the entire trip. On those days I'll typically use pork trailers because they are much more efficient. Hook one on and I'm good for the entire trip. No ripped off appendages, no sliding down on short strikes, no tearing and superglueing. 8-) -T9

One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet that will work if you take the time. We will use an aluminum push pole or extendable lure retriever and move along the milfoil mat edge and create our own holes by reaching out and just hooking the surface mat and pulling it toward us. Just need a foot or two opening. Cruise along with the trolling motor and do this every 30'-50'. After making all your holes, give them a little time to "settle back down" while you rig up or try a diffrent section of the lake and then return later. Fish will gravitate to the opening pretty quickly if they're around. -T9

Daiwa's have always been my favorite baitcasters, but I'm to the point of having about an equal mix between them and Shimano's any more. Their (Shimano's) quality has improved quite a bit recently and the Castaic thumb bar is still my favorite baitcast feature. On spinning reels, it's almost all Daiwa's for me, though I have been known to occasionally fish with a Shimano on warm, sunny days without threat of rain 8-) -T9