Team9nine

Your math is off. The 2.6 million angler hours is the total accumulated hours for all study years combined. The 473 bass over 5lbs. is just for the 2010 reporting year. In 2010, there were 70,003 reported angling hours, which when divided by the 473 reported bass >5lbs works out to 148 hrs per 5lb fish, or one every 18.5 tourney days (8 hr days). Several states keep track of this type of information. A few years back, I compiled all the available reports from 6 different states, including Alabama, a data set that was twice as large as the Alabama set alone (nearly 5 million angler hours). The average time across all lakes and states that it took to catch a 5 pound bass worked out to be 495.9 hours per fish. If you looked at just the best lake in any given state for a year that had at least 5 reports for itself, and averaged those across the 6 states and many years, you arrived at a best average of 165.5 angler-hours to catch a 5 pound bass. At the time, several of the states had been affected by the largemouth bass virus. Now that that has largely run its course on many waters, its obvious that bass fishing is only getting better and better. Would be interesting to know exactly what the basis is for the 5/95 stat that has been reported... -T9

I think this whole argument has been blown way out of proportion. Regardless of whatever explanation they (poorly) tried to explain, the point that seems to be getting lost here is that the Elite Series Rules Committee members unanimously voted for and asked B.A.S.S./Trip to not allow it. B.A.S.S. only complied with the anglers wishes. It was a decision by that group, which acts as representatives for all Elite Series anglers, to self impose it on their Series only. It affects 100 anglers in the country fishing a single circuit, and doesn't apply to any of their lower level events. Wouldn't surprise me if they changed the rule to allow it after this one year hiatus. Either way, doesn't affect anybody else throwing it. I don't see what the big deal is... -T9

Of the two sizes you asked about, I'd go with the 12#. NanoFil can be a little knot touchy, and you might have some issues with 6# and shaky heads. I'd personally lean toward 8# or more likely 10# myself just because I like to go as thin as possible with my line diameter. Have used both 4# and 6# NanoFil since early summer (2011) for open hook finesse fishing though and really like the line. -T9

I believe the bait on the left is a Norman Thin N in Zucchini color. Betting the bait on the right isn't a Bagley - don't ever recall them having that type eye. Haven't figured out what it is though.

Contact Terry Anderson at AFS Baits (Google website). He is a local (to me - IN) custom jig designer/tyer that can do about anything for you. I'd say he'd be your best shot that I'm aware of. Tell him T9 sent ya' and maybe your request will get special consideration (LOL - no promises). -T9

Certainly haven't tested them all, but of the ones (mono/copolys) I have tested, Berkley Sensation has always had the least amount of stretch. Next closest was Trilene XT. In both cases though, neither will have the sensitivity of fluoro because it's not stretch, but primarily density that accounts for fluoros better sensitivity. -T9

I keep a 12lb. certified Chatillon (2 oz. incr.) in the boat at all times for guaranteed accurate weights of larger fish. For just normal fun fishing or random tracking, I really like the new Rapala digital scales with the touch screen. Comes with a composite lip clip, tracks, culls and totals on-screen. Really fun, and so far, when compared head to head with the Chatillon, dead accurate. Can't speak to their long term accuracy or durability though. -T9

In most cases, I'd argue that you can get away with a lot lighter line than most guys would believe or try. Ten pound is pretty darn strong when you think of it, especially if it is an abrasion resistant line. Like J Francho said, no way you should be snapping fresh 10 pound line on the hookset unless your setup or your mechanics aren't right. Look at all the guys out deep cranking DD-22's, DT's and Fat Free Shads on ledges using 10# line and catching big bass on a large heavy bait with a pair of big trebles. To me, finesse jigging is typically a lot lighter than a quarter ounce, and I regularly go down to 6# or 8# line all the time on spinning outfits to fish that way; usually going 8# to 10# on baitcasters. Try going light a time or two and see what happens. You might be surprised by the results. -T9

Not many actual brands that label/sell 7lb. as a breaking strain, and it doesn't really matter that much considering that there are no standards in labeling. You're not getting what is listed relative to actual breaking strain (almost always more), so if you're not happy with your 8# line, go with the one you mentioned, or a good brand of 6lb. and you'll never know the difference. -T9

I believe by and large it doesn't matter - fish can see them all. Under any given background, lighting, habitat, surface pres. vs. bottom pres., water color, etc., a given color line could be more or less visible to a fish, so I don't think the advertising/marketing claims are absolutes. Similar to what Wayne P. stated, I've thrown white, yellow, flame green, grey, green and red at one time or another on my local waters, all direct tied, and never seen a discernable difference. It probably matters some time and on some waters, but it's also probably not as often as people think.

One of my favorites. Semi-transparent frosty whitish sides, orange belly, chartreuse insert flash plate that varies in size based upon exact model. -T9

West central Indiana, here...

X2 - Robo's are probably one of the most popular; certainly couldn't go wrong with it. My personal favorite is the 4" Diamond Back Worm from Cache Custom Lures.

While there are no absolutes when it comes to bass biology, and contrary to some of what has been stated, there is enough scientific literature out there, as well as anecdotal observations by anglers, that supports the argument that the largest bass are usually some of the first to spawn, at least in the case of largemouth. -T9

I've got all three that you mentioned, and all have performed fine for me. I've seen some not so great comments on the Exceler, but I've landed a 44 pound flathead on 8lb. line with mine and the reel performed flawlessly. That said, I'd probably pick the Sahara out of the 3. I've owned it the longest of the bunch, and hence used it the most, and it has held up great. The recommendation on the Stradic is good one - they're really nice if you want to jump up to that price point. -T9

You lost me before ever even getting to the main question. I'd almost never sit long enough (diligently) to fancast using different lures, depths and retrieves trying to figure it out Best case scenario, it would be half a dozen to a dozen casts with just 2 or 3 types of baits. They've got to be biting better somewhere else...I'm outta' there in 20 minutes or less. - T9

Have been using it since a little before it became available to the public. Its biggest weakness is definitely knot strength, especially in the lighter tests. You can either go up in pound test to help alleviate this, use a leader, or lighten up on your normal rod power/action. I've been using a flurocarbon leader better than 95% of the time, mostly Toray Super Hard Premium-Plus High Grade Fluorocarbon in 6# tied to both 4# and 6# NanoFil (my finesse outfits). Use either a J-knot, their recommended 11-turn double Albright, or a modified Albright (Crazy Alberto) with extra wraps to link fluoro leader to NanoFil, and test knot good before using. I've been sticking with the J-knot and it's been solid. Sensitivity and handling is great with this line, much better than normal braid IMO - way better than Fireline and quite a bit better than PowerPro. There's no "breaking in" period with this line. It's been my exclusive line for finesse jigging bass this fall, and I caught somewhere north of 800 bass since October using the same 2 spools of 4#, but primarily 6# line without a single breakoff of the NanoFil (only broke 2 off from the leader). The line will show signs of fraying after a while as some have mentioned, but it's never compromised the strength of the line from what I can tell, and I've never gone out of my way to remove long sections from the end of the line. Haven't had any problems with the white color, other than it can be difficult to see at times. My biggest hope for 2012 is that they release this line in a hi-vis version. White shows up good on flat/dark water, but is terrible in the sun or a glare/chop. Again, using a leader and fishing primarily 2'-6' vis water around here, but haven't seen any instances where the line spooked fish. The line is very expensive ($20 for 150 yds), but by splitting spools, I've been able to go since June on 4 outfits using just 2 spools of 150 yd. line. When you add up all the crappies and bass I've caught using this line and divide by the cost of 2 spools, it works out to just pennies per fish. The only other braid I really want to try right now is 832 by Sufix. Heard and seen good things about it and would like to compare to NanoFil. Keep in mind this line has been expressly marketed as a spinning rod line. I still don't think they make it in over 12# test yet. I'm guessing there are some reasons behind this, one being that hooksets with a baitcaster would probably be hell on knot breakage. I also think that line digging, which hasn't been a problem with spinning for me, might become one with baitcasting. This is all purely speculation on my part, but a fair warning for those that take the line in higher tests and might want to throw it on their casting rigs. Maybe you can get away with it, maybe not. I haven't tried yet. -T9

I didn't start the year with any goals because any more, I just like getting out fishing as much as I can. Had enough of that goal stuff when I fished tourneys (25 years). Still, when the season was halfway through and it was obvious to me it was looking like a good year, I decided to shoot for catching 2,011 bass in 2011. Reached that goal on Dec. 3, and thanks to some unusually warm Indiana weather, have now exceeded it by a couple hundred...and still counting. Goals for 2012: Go fishing and enjoy -T9

X2 That said, if I had to break it down in percentages, northern basser has the approx. mix I would follow. You shouldn't have any problem getting a solid setup with a $300 budget, with the $$ weighted toward the rod purchase in some degree. -T9

Have tried quite a few and now pretty much stick to just 3 brands, Toray (SH Upgrade), Seaguar (InvisX), and Trilene 100%. Toray is probably my favorite, but it's expensive and not easy to get hold of (limited online sales). Seaguar is pretty easy to find, and I gained a ton of confidence in it when I landed a 44.6 pound flathead 2 years ago on 8# InvisX after a 1 hr and 45 minute fight. Trilene 100% hasn't given me any problems and is available at most good retail outlets. I could recommend any of the 3 with a clear conscious. -T9

Yep - cover more water, but use everything, fast baits and slow, vertical as well as horizontal as cover/structure dictates. Back in the day it used to be called "junk fishing", but you don't hear the term used near as often anymore for some reason. -T9

Been old schoolin' it this spring with an 1/8-oz. hair jig. Over 325 bass since ice out <30 days ago, and still working. -T9

I've used it. Does handle very well, but has a lot of stretch, to the high side compared to most lines. Think that's the trade-off for the good handling. I've been using the Upgrade for jig work, etc. in the 16-20# range, and the Super finesse for the light weight stuff. Been VERY happy with both. -T9

I've studied this one a bit, and to date, I haven't found any published research documenting the ability of adult bass to see UV light. Therefore, it is only speculation at this point that they might, barring some unknown studies to me. There is some literature that has suggested that YOY largemouth bass might have this ability, similar to some other members of the sunfish family, but it is also generally known that UV photoreceptors are only present in many freshwater fishes during early life history stages and coincide with feeding on planktivory. As for depth penetration, it varies with type of UV wavelength (UV-A or UV-. UV-A typically will penetrate to about twice the depth of UV-B. That said, a lot depends on water clarity which is tied to the amount of organic matter in the water column. In one study I read, where visibility would frequently reach 20' or better, the 1% UV-B light level (only 1% left) reached about 8' in the spring, and was reduced to about 5' in the summer after plankton blooming. In murkier water, these 1% levels would decrease accordingly. -T9

X2 - I fished ENE winds with a rising barometer last Saturday that peaked around noon at 30.5" and caught 63 bass. The next day, with winds turning more southerly and barometer fallling all day back to 30.0, I caught 57 more. Water temps were mid to upper 40's both days. If you can figure out location and presentation and adjust accordingly, there are always some biting bass to be had. There are many other more important environmental cues to be paying attention to in my book. -T9