Team9nine

I think a lot of it is personal preference. I've got a 6'10" Loomis Shakyhead rod that is very nice, and is probabaly about as long as I'd personally want to fish with on my waters, but I've also caught a heck of a lot of fish using the technique with the previously mentioned 6'3" Daiwa length. In clearer waters where longer casts might be necessary, the longer rod might have the advantage. In more stained waters or where you might be making shorter casts around cover options or just shorter casts in general since the fish might not be as spooky, the shorter rod seems to work fine. -T9

Not to belabor the points, but in the interest of clarification and further discussion, since it's hard to discuss a topic if only one side of the issue is being expounded upon, I offer the following: You miss the point with the data in question. First, it wasn't generated by the author of the post in quesion, so he had no control over the methodology used. It was a very high end test though using Instron-like machine that tested 5 lines, 4 of which were monos. The point that was trying to be made was to disprove the argument many make that, 'OK, maybe fluoro stretches as much, but it somehow stretches differently than mono. It stretches less than mono with light force applied'. It doesn't matter which curve you would have selected of the 4 monos tested, they all stretched equal or less for a given force than the fluoro sample. The fact that the company that did the testing didn't/couldn't mention brand names doesn't change the outcome. The othe point to be made is that you have to be very careful in making blanket statements about monos/copolys versus fluorocarbons, because there are so many differences among brands. If you took the time to read through all the mentioned fluoro articles on the site in question, you'd see that the density/sensitivity issue was addressed. It is one of the few places I've seen that does mention it, as it largely gets overlooked by most as you said.

LOL - Skeletor6, you completely misinterpreted the intent of the articles, as well as the specifics behind them. You are trying to hold them to a higher standard than the message they were meant to convey. And the guy who wrote them actually loves fluorocarbon line, especially the Toray brand products and InvisX has it's place as well. -T9

This sums it up nicely. It has advantages, and it has its place in my arsenal. I've now used Vanish, Trilene 100%, P*line fluoro, Stren fluoro, Toray Bawo finesse fluoro, and Toray super hard fluoro. Toray is my favorite without a doubt, but I can't say I've had any problems out of the ordinary with any of them. Also use them as leaders with braid in many situations. Good stuff with some limitations just like every other line type. -T9

One of the biggest reasons is simply because the two Tours have a bad habit of overlapping at least one event during the season, if not more. As tough as it is out there, a pro can't afford to miss a single event if he expects or hopes to fish in the year end championship of each circuit, which is where the largest prize money is at to be won. Until the Tours stop overlapping, you won't see many guys try both circuits in the same year. Several have in the past, including Ish Monroe and Steve Kennedy and Ike. You'll see a couple guys do it this coming year though since there is only 1 minor overlap. Another factor is that even though you might be a "pro", while the FLW Tour will accept about anybody with the money to play, the Elite Series is just 100 guys, and getting entry is much more restrictive. I know one FLW pro who called and asked about getting onto the Elite Trail in 2013 and was told they couldn't. You pretty much have to qualify your way into the Elites through the Opens. That said, numerous pros have fished both circuits over their careers. Even KVD fished the FLW Tour for about 4 years. Many pros who do fish one of the pro circuits full time will fish the other circuits lower level events. There were at least 10 or more Bassmaster Elite guys (DUCKETT, HARTLEY, REEHM, HACKNEY, REED, ELIAS, CLUNN, KENNEDY, OMORI, T. MARTIN) who fished the FLW Rayburn event last week, and numerous pros have fished either the Opens or the Everstarts of their opposing circuit. -T9

I've yet to find an independent (peer reviewed) study that supports the ability of adult bass to see in the UV spectrum, and even further to suggest that if they could, it was somehow related to a feeding advantage as opposed to some other reason for having the ability. Several species of fish when first born can see UV/polarized light since they feed on the tiniest of planktons, but the studies I've read suggest that as soon as they reach juvenile stage, the eyes adopt a color vision advantage and lose this UV ability. Plus UV wavelengths being on the short end of the specturm, they get scattered and absorbed pretty darn quick in all but the clearest water. But it's your money... -T9

If all the big fish bit at a certain hour, there'd be no need to fish any other time If I make it to the lake by noon, I'm doing good and ahead of schedule. Around here, all the tourney guys eat up the dawn til 3 time frame. I've got no interest in "fighting" them on the lake or at the ramp. I like to sleep in, launch after lunch, see where the pressure is at, and then fish as late as I feel like. Most bass guys that start really early are off the water by 3 or 4. Kind of surprising how quiet the lake can get after that. Plus, the evening topwater bite right at or before dark can be nearly as good as the morning bite. Works for me. -T9

If your drag is good and heavy cover isn't a problem, you shouldn't have any problem with 4lb. line. You might even consider moving up to 6lb. if you don't feel comfortable with the 4. Ned and other "Midwest Finesse" practitioners typically use either 8-10lb. braid with an 6-8lb. fluoro leader, or just straight 6-8lb. mono or fluoro for most of their fishing. The system is pretty fun, but you might also add some 1/16-oz. jigheads into the mix, as the 1/32nds are awefully light and good only for pretty shallow water. -T9

Most everything I've seen is what South FLA posted...through the bottom and the top loops (#1), just doubled in your particular scenario. -T9

Gear ratio should have nothing to do with casting distance, to my knowledge. On most all reels, everything disengages on the cast, so only the spool is spinnning, controlled by whatever degree of braking system you have in place. -T9

Alberto is a great knot, but as you found out yourself, its strength can vary depending on how careful you tie the knot. I've actually migrated over to the J knot, which is nearly as strong, but doesn't require the level of attentiveness to maintain its strength (read: I can tie it more easily and consistently). -T9

Certainly don't use it for everything, but over half my bass every year come on spinning outfits, not to mention a load of crappie and other panfish. Just like everything else, it's a great tool in the right situations, and it's as efficient/good as the time you put in learning to use it. If you don't like it, don't use it. Fishing is supposed to be fun... -T9

I'd be surprised if it's a mix of the two, because Sensation has less stretch than either XT (by a little) or XL (by a lot) lines individually. I actually haven't found a mono/copoly or fluoro line that stretches less, though I certainly haven't tested everything on the market. I've been using it quite a bit lately as both a regular line when I want a mono/copoly with minimal stretch, or as an inexpensive leader line. Pretty good stuff, and the blaze orange is a great color for line watching. -T9

No scent... -T9

Good plan - the knot and line difference should largely be irrelevant, because you should never be casting to the point of reaching that connection, nor have a fish be able to take you into the backing line IMO. -T9

Triple Surgeon's not bad in mono and coploy's, but it is not a good knot to use in braid. The testing I've done with a couple different brands has shown that knot to be the weakest link and break in braid, mainly because the braid cuts into itself too easily. That said, given a high enough breaking strength of braid used to counter the weaker knot, the connection is surprisingly strong. -T9

It'd be a toss-up between Al Lindner and Rick Clunn...decisions, decisions. -T9

Interesting - I'm just the opposite. I want limpness right out of the box. The two lines I mentioned have been the best in that regard. Still early in the weekend, but I was very happy with the first run last night using the 6# 832 with 1/16-oz jigheads. Limp enough to satisfy me, good handling, and I really like the line color. Bite detection was very adequate. I'll try and really put it through the paces this weekend, though I don't have anything close to 4# smallies to test against Did manage crappie, bluegill, largemouth and white bass on the first go, just nothing really large. Still a huge fan of NanoFil, more so for all the open water crappie fishing I do, but has also been great for finesse bassin. The 4# is my favorite, but even after a lot of use, it breaks too easily when tied direct. Even leader knots have to be checked well and sometimes tied several times to get it right, but once you do, life is great. Still haven't found another superline that comes close to its casting distance and low tension feel. Once you hit the 6# and up versions, knot issues seem to become much less a problem. Now, if the previous post about the new colors is correct, and it's something close to flame green FL or neon lime 832, I'll be one happy camper. More details to come hopefully if the fish cooperate... -T9

I also bought spools of 10# and 6# 832 as the next braid to try after NanoFil. I was pretty disappointed with the 10# straight off the spool, as it wasn't near as limp as I was hoping for. I removed it from my shakyhead outfit until I get some more time in with it, as it appears it needs to be "broken in". I've used friends outfits that had it on and was impressed with it, but theirs had been well used. Respooled with the 6# 832 yesterday and plan on giving it a good workout starting tonight. I'll report back in after some thorough use. Hoping I won't be disappointed, because I really like the lime green color vs. the white. So far NanoFil and Spiderwire InvisiBraid running 1-2 in my book, with PP an acceptable 3rd. -T9

Yep - He was throwing it for much of his bite, too, along with a locally made bait - finished 13th. He's tried most of them. He yelled at me good when I bought a Kelly J's this spring Check the pic: Wheeler -T9

Brian's Bee - Know a guy who fished the FLW Cup on Ouachita last summer and he said the Brian's Bee was tied on most everybody's rod that was fishing that pattern, whether they had a competing sponsor product or not. It runs truer with better action than the Kelly J. -T9

Andrew - If you're still into coarse fishing, you're in luck living there. Check out the Indiana Bank Anglers fishing club (Tony Forte & the guys). Also a very strong contingent of such anglers in the Chicago area. Otherwise, the St. Joe is a very good smallmouth river, and parts of it also have good walleye and a salmon/trout run from off Lake Michigan. Lots of very good natural lakes up in the area, also. -T9

Roughly 3.5 million years ago, though the entire Micropterus lineage goes back about 7-8 million years. -T9

Randall nailed it from my experience. It's one of the overlooked things when companies and individuals first started making knock-offs haphazardly just to compete in the market and capitalize on the craze. The head shouldn't be that heavy relative to the jigheads, otherwise you get exactly what you describe. In fact, my favorite versions have very lightweight resin heads. It's the equivalent of casting a crankbait with a weight transfer system. If the design and balance is correct, wind isn't an issue. I've thrown properly balanced rigs in 20-30 mph winds for hours without any problems. -T9

Short answer in my opinion is yes, you are limiting yourself for no good reason. There are no standards in rod ratings, only suggested weight ranges. Don't fret over a 1/16-oz. Buy a ML rated down to 1/8-oz. and you'll be fine. I've got 5 such outfits now that I use and all of them are pretty cross functional when it comes to light tackle applications. Action (fast, x-fast, mod.) will be more important. -T9