Team9nine

LOL - that wasn't meant as an absolute statement/post of the only things we know about bass vision, Paul but it is one of the few published studies carried out directly on largemouth bass eyes and not inferred from the eyes/research of other similar fish. As such, it gets heavily cited. So while generalities certainly apply such as the rods and cones function you mention, one still needs to be careful about stating anything specific to a bass that hasn't been proven otherwise. A good example of this overgeneralization would be UV vision in juvenile sunfish members, where one published study found that juvenile pumpkinseed do use UV vision for some degree of feeding advantage, while another (different) study demonstrated that juvenile bluegill do not. So where would a juvenile bass fall, being in the same family? Schrodinger's Cat? -T9

Short answer is most of them Here in Indiana, the DNR has done population studies on many of our popular reservoirs, and it's not unusual to find an average of 20-30 8" or larger bass per surface acre of water. Thought of another way, when they do electrofishing, the typical catch rate range is 50-200 bass per hour (CPUE). So the simple answer is there are almost always a lot more bass swimming around where you are fishing compared to what you are actually catching. -T9

The problem, of course, is that most of this color discussion (as has been already stated) is merely speculation. So while fun to discuss, it likely has little relevance to whether or not we each experience successful fishing, witness the differences in personal experiences shared on this forum topic. There is some stuff we do know, provided by detailed examination of the largemouth bass' eye from studies such as the 2002 Kawamura & Kishimoto paper which appears to be the most recent and heavily cited example in literature. From that study we know the following: The occurrence of C-response provides direct evidence for the possession of color vision. In this study, therefore, it is concluded that the largemouth bass can discriminate colors. The dominant L-response with a maximum at 673nm and three variations in C-responses might indicate a better color analysis at longer wavelengths, implying that the largemouth bass is able to discriminate red better than blue. In the largemouth bass, the visual axis is found in the nasal-temporal direction and the near point is 13.5 cm, indicating that sharp image formation is not performed when an object comes closer than 13.5cm from the eyes. This near point is slightly shorter than those of other teleosts. The retina of the largemouth bass is specialized to both movement and form perceptions. Part of the problem is that while science can determine things like optimal color sensitivity (red) of a bass' eye, that doesn't necessarily indicate that the color red is therefore more attractive to bass, since attractiveness is determined only behaviorally, and behavior is largely an adaptation to (specific) environment. As such, it wouldn't be unexpected to see angler color experiences that seem to contradict each other (or the research), and it therefore shouldn't suggest that one example/person is right and so the other must be wrong. Then there are the areas of inconsistent opinion or (dis)agreement amongst even the researchers themselves on subjects like UV perception by bass. Of course, this is all part of what makes bass fishing so interesting. Ultimately, each angler has to determine for himself how important (or not) any of this "color stuff" is to his own fishing. -T9

While those conditions don't preclude bass from using such structures for a variety of reasons, on cloudy days and at night, the relative visual advantages offered by them (docks) on brighter days are decreased considerably, and hence studies have shown a corresponding decrease in the attractiveness of such overhead objects. It's been suggested that bass and similar predators are actually more likely to move down and away in the water column to be better able to silhouette prey against a potentially lighter background (sky) at night, as well as to use a "flushing" behavior (Doug Hannon, John Hope) during active low light feeding periods (see: http://www.bassresource.com/fish_biology/ambush_bass.html). -T9

Another must have cold water bait IMO that I always have tied on. Often referred to as blade baits, they (there are many different versions by various companies) have a pretty big following down in TVA country as a smallmouth killer, as well as a decent following through the northern and NE section of the country as an all-around catcher on natural lake systems. It tends to get overlooked by a lot of our flatland reservoir counterparts, but if the water has some clarity to it there is no faster way of covering decent amounts of deep structure searching for bass, largemouth included. While we don't have too many Indiana tournaments late in the year when these baits shine, they have helped me cash several nice checks in very early spring tournaments focusing on pre-spawn bass, not to mention just catching a bunch of good bass "fun fishing" late in the year. Retrieve is like everything else, vary until you figure out what the fish want - sometimes long pulls and other times short hops. Even done well at times with a slow steady retrieve. Also a great multi-species bait, so you won't just catch bass on them. Crappie, white bass and walleye love 'em, too. -T9

This subject has actually been studied rather extensively in fishes, both freshwater and salt water. The penchant of fishes to use shade being a pretty universal behavior. As such, the answer like most things in life, is not so cut and dried, as the research shows that it depends on whether you are the predator or the prey, solitary or in a group, or are more active during daylight or at night. All that said, the generally established conclusions are that light and shading is the most common reason fish use such objects as docks, either to hide from a (water based) predator or to use shade to your predatory advantage. I would have to believe this is the primary reason for such use by bass, especially adult bass. However, the research also suggests that for some fish (bluegills, etc., and I might assume to some degree even small bass), reared in a hatchery environment and later stocked into lakes, that the "raptor effect" is likely a very real behavioral response. -T9

Yeah, I've tried it. I like doing little "fun" on-the-water tests like this. My conclusion: As C & G said, color only matters when it matters, which is a lot less of the time than most people probably realize. If you stick with the basic "tried and true" colors in any given bait, you'll catch your share of fish more days than not. Here was the set up: I jumped into my buddies boat after work and go bass fishing. I only brought one rod and reel, but two tackle boxes. One of those tackle boxes was completely empty. The other was filled with a myriad of crankbaits, mostly shallow runners and squarebills - about every bait and color I owned. Here's the test. I fish from the back of the boat only. I only use 1 outfit the entire time, spooled with 10lb. line and using a snap tied to the line to facilitate quick lure changes. Pick one crankbait to start with and fish it until I catch a bass, any size. After catching a bass on the bait, I immediately remove that bait from the snap and place it into the empty box. Reach back into the main crankbait box and grab another (different) bait to add to the clip and try and catch another bass. Repeat. More rules: I could use multiple same baits from the same manufacturer (for instance, several different Bandit 100's), so long as I use a different color pattern every time and don't repeat any one color pattern for that bait. I can also use multiple similar color patterns (for instance, several different firetiger colored baits), so long as they are from different manufacturers and not repeated. When all was said and done, I managed 25 bass on 25 different baits in about 150 minutes. However, I did actually have 2 baits I tried that I couldn't get bit on. Doesn't necessarily prove anything, but if you try the same thing sometime, you might not worry so much about color or brand the next time you're out on the water. -T9

Used to do it all the time with the old wooden crankbaits like Poes, etc., but unless you still fish those, paint technology and lure design (transparency, etc.) has become so good that it's really not necessary any more, IMO. -T9

As far as I'm concerned, any bass that is a "keeper" (over 14" on most waters around here) is a 'decent' fish. For my area, I also consider 4 pound bass to be a very nice (above average) fish, and that usually happens just at or over the 19" mark. A "big" bass for here would be 5 pounds or better, and that is usually around 20.5" -T9

I'm a spinning "backreeler" and a baitcast "free spooler" ('thumb-barrer,' if that is a word - LOL) with any fish of large proportions. Not near as critical with the small guys though. Certainly in the minority of anglers these days, though. -T9

Buzzbaits will run on their side for the same reason that spinnerbaits will do the same, or even "windmill," and it usually isn't because it's bent. How the bait runs is a simple function of physics. You need to match retrieve speed with weight and mass of the "body" and the torque of the blade. Larger blades create more torque that will try and roll the bait over. A slower retrieve speed or heavier head weight will help offset this. Lighter heads simply don't have the same keel effect to keep the bait running upright as heavier heads. More skirt and trailer mass works against the head weight to try and roll the bait over. Consider thinning things down, going to a smaller trailer, or even no trailer. Faster retrieve speeds also tend to potentially roll the bait. If your bait rolls on its side, first try slowing down your retrieve speed. Lastly, angle between head wire arm and the blade wire arm makes a difference - the smaller that angle, the more stable the bait. So, in the future, if your buzzbait or spinnerbait doesn't run right, it is usually because these factors aren't "in synch" or matched properly for that particular bait.

Uni-Uni obviously works for many, and is a popular knot, but I won't use it for line-to-leader connections. Alberto/MA is what I use, though I've heard the reverse of that knot (forgot the name) might be better in the higher pound tests. Alberto/MA crushed the Uni-Uni in head-to-head Knot Wars competition (~24% stronger). -T9

The last really detailed tracking I did from a couple years ago for the entire year showed: Trips: 82 Hours fished: 260 Average trip: 3 hrs, 10 mins Bass caught: 2,305 Average # bass/hr: 8.86 Average # bass/trip: 28 # of trips with >50 bass: 17 -T9

I've played around a lot with knot testing, and have pretty much settled on the MA/Alberto as the best all-around. That said, I'd read several recommendations recently for the Seaguar, so I used it this weekend and ended up experiencing the exact same thing - that being that the Seaguar knot connection failed nearly every time as opposed to the knot at the hook/lure going first, which usually happens with the MA/Alberto. If you believe the "Knot Wars" data, the MA/Alberto crushed the competition back in 2010, though not every knot was tested, obviously. -T9

^^ Another braid/fluoro shakyheader, usually 8-10# braid with an 8# fluoro leader. -T9

I customized a 1648 jon 7 years ago this month. Still fishing out of it today. Posted a pic below, but you can get a lot more details here: http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_indiana_bass/boat_project/

Ditto - PP yellow, along with lines like 832 'neon lime', Fireline 'flame green' and Nanofil hi-vis chartreuse are all very good lines for line watchers. I've used them all regularly. I think the next easiest color to see for line watchers is pure white. Beyond that, the reds, greens, and smokes are the hardest to see well in most conditions, IMO. -T9

Sounds like angler error in this case. Many good suggestions already. Always check your leader knot before a trip, and even at times during a trip. Knots are not forever - they all wear out eventually for a variety of reasons. Best advice though is to simply replace with a fresh leader and knot before every trip, or at least every other trip. Cheap insurance, IMO. -T9

I always keep several reels spooled up with Toray. I like their Super Hard Upgrade (worm/jig/spoon) and Super Finesse (finesse spinning) the best. I always have some of their fluorocarbon on hand to spool. Also have their braid and mono. Not a big fan of the braid, but the mono (Polyamide Plus) is pretty good stuff. -T9

Haven't tested them all by any means, but of all the ones I have, Berkley Sensation has always come out as the mono with the least amount of stretch. -T9

See Weld's Largemouth link below, those were the studies I was referring to...and yes, one was largemouth specific, the other was on both smallmouth and largemouth...and no delayed mortality in either case. -T9

^^^ This, but studies have shown bass are a little tougher than some people give them credit for. The guideline about only as long as you can hold your breath is just that, a guideline. There are studies suggesting that even 10 minutes out of water won't harm them. I'd have to believe that shorter is always better though. -T9

Absolutely. Trolling is the "teacher". Certainly not near as common these days given the tournament mentality among most bassers, but definitely still effective. Best "tips" I could give for most would be to utilize the technique for its strengths, that being A.) mapping and interpretation, as well as, B.) determining proper depth and speed controls for the day. -T9

Back on the two originally proposed questions: Does Flourocarbon Matter As Much As Companies Say It Does? - NO - Does fluorocarbon really make that much of a difference in the amount of fish you catch? - In some instances where you take advantage of its strengths, yes. IMHO... -T9

Haven't tried any of the ones you mentioned, but I do have a couple Denali's (crankbait rods) that have been really great rods. Several different models well within your budget. Might be worth looking at if someone near you carries them.. -T9