Team9nine

Thanks, Dave! Saw those two referenced in a post about the name, but couldn't tell from context if they were the ones who coined it or were just a couple of the first to adopt the name. "Ned Rig" is simply too short and easy to reference, so I'm afraid Ned is stuck with it whether he likes it or not - LOL. The name on the packages must have really thrilled him Jig heads are working great so far! -T9

Ned considers the late Chuck Wood as the father of finesse fishing for bass. Chuck always used spinning tackle for everything he threw, finesse or otherwise. I believe part of it stems from that history which dates back to the late 50s and early 60s. Additionally, part of Ned's Midwest Finesse Modus operandi is frugality, so not only does he use only spinning gear, but it is old and inexpensive spinning gear (LOL). He uses 1970s Cardinal 4 reels that he bought for $20 back in the day (but are still widely considered to be some of the best spinning reels ever built), along with cheap $20 Shakespeare Synergy rods. He even cuts the bails off his spinning reels. Ned fishes the lightweight jig/worm baits almost exclusively, and frequently makes casts less than 40 feet long, so he has no need for baitcast gear, or even fancier spinning equipment. As he has stated, he shuns versatility. -T9

Thanks for the clarification. Not certain who exactly coined the name "Varmint" (or "Little Varmint"), but I do know that many of the guys on the Ozark forums refer to the "Ned Rig " by that name, and that didn't start happening (at least publically) until after Ned had written a couple stories calling the bait (ZinkerZ/mushroom head jig) by that name last June. -T9

My general rule of thumb is that if it is windy, I fish the windy banks - at least until the fish say otherwise. It can be a great trigger for feeding activity. What lures depends on the direction of the wind relative to the bank, the overall layout (angle) of the bank being hit by wind, as well as any cover that might come into play. On steeper banks, mid depth or deeper crankbaits get the nod. On flatter banks, squarebills, traps and spinnerbaits can work well. I usually prefer to throw directly into the wind, regardless of angle. Sometimes that's not possible. Crosswinds can be the toughest to fish in. Keep in mind that on some banks, a good undertow can develop where fish will be pegged toward the bottom facing the shore (into the undertow). In those cases, pitching a heavy jig or worm into slightly deeper water off from the bank can be the ticket. -T9

Yes, Ned Kehde is the one who has popularized and developed the main concept and rig, what he refers to as "Midwest Finesse" fishing, but the name "Ned Rig" was basically given to the bait by his readers and followers. I don't believe Ned even liked it referred to as such, and I can't ever remember seeing him use that name in his many writings. He has tried giving it other names such as "Little Varmint," but they never really "took." Ned Rig is what has stuck. -T9

Use whatever you can tie best, and that works best for you. Trilene knot is solid, and pretty much matches the Palomar with fluorocarbon and mono, but the Palomar excels against the Trilene knot with braid. Been using the Palomar exclusively for about 25 years now and have never seen a reason to change. Closest thing to an all-purpose/all lines knot I've found. -T9

You can order them direct from Z-Man via their website, or use one of the many similar style jigheads from Outkast (TW), BPS, Gopher, etc. Just order the 3/32nd to match the 1/10. If you can't get that, go 1/16th (a little lighter might lessen snagging), or 1/8th (a little heavier but very close to your 1/10ths). -T9

^^ Pretty much this ^^ It's only "revolutionary" or "new" if you have no idea of the history behind it. It is Ned's way of resurrecting (and paying tribute to) the original concepts (the Beetle, using only spinning gear, frugality, fishing small waters, etc.) developed by Chuck Woods and a few others in the 1950s and 1960s. Ned's only spin on it is the newer material baits that help with his 101 fish per trip goal, and perhaps the dedicated retrieves. -T9

MBR783 does all kinds of things well. No problem with small jigs and Texas rigs. This weekend I used it to nab a bunch of bass on Super Spook Jrs. A truly multi-purpose rod if ever there was one. -T9

River smallmouth guys are starting to catch on to the rig. Obviously every river is different, but the following link detailing the experiences of one river angler who has seen it's effectiveness should get you started: http://www.in-fisherman.com/midwest-finesse/tactics-for-smallmouth-bass-in-ozark-creeks-and-rivers/ Can't tell what jighead you are using, but if it's a Gopher (preferably), or something similar with a good lead keeper, simply take a piece of monofilament and make a slip knot, similar to what you might use to attach your line to the spool of your reel. Push your Elaztech body up to the head of the bait, then loop the slip knot over the head, but in front of the lead keeper. Now simply cinch the loop knot really tight, then trim the excess line. If you're good with knots, you can even finish it off with a whip finish or a couple half hitches before doing this. It will hold the bait pretty well. The current Ned Rig I'm using has well over 75 fish to its credit right now without slipping once using this technique. Not quite as good as superglue because you will have to rotate the body straight after several fish, but solves your immediate problem. -T9

It works just fine on bedding fish. Been catching quite a few that way here in Indiana for the past week and a half. A few more thoughts I'd like to share based on what I've been reading on the forums to help clarify a little about what the bait and technique is or isn't. Seems the more people post, the more confusing it ("Ned Rig") becomes at times. Don't make the Ned Rig into something it isn't. The primary concept behind it is to assist in the task/goal of catching 101 bass a trip (4 hours). Yes, you can expand on that basic concept as others have shown, but that is the main theme behind using it. See: http://www.deseretnews.com/article/700241837/Bass-101--its-the-target-not-a-course.html?pg=all As such, it's small size is geared toward picking up numbers of bass, but as others have posted, if a big fish gets in the way, it will entice them too. They're a bonus - not the primary goal. Ned caught and released what many considered to likely be a new state record class smallmouth (Kansas; 6-10) on it just a year or two back, and recently tangled with another that size already this spring (got off boatside before being lipped). "Ned Rig" is a generic term for the mushroom head/small plastic/spinning rod/braid/leader fishing concept. It is not just a 1/2 ZinkerZ or TRD bait on a jig head. There are actually about 8-10 different plastics Midwest Finesse anglers (the broader term for anglers using the rig and it's counterparts) routinely carry and use, some of which aren't Z-Man baits. The Z-Man plastics are simply preferred for their durability and efficiency. Some days the fish want a different shape. We use small craws, leeches, finesse worms, shad-shaped and lizards also. However, all baits are 4" or less in length. Obviously, the bait isn't designed for fishing in and around heavy cover. In fact, the concept was designed to specifically avoid such areas. Most all regular bassers get drawn to heavy weeds, laydowns, brushpiles, and other obvious pieces of cover. Midwest finesse anglers specifically target more open, unattractive banks (rock banks, clay banks, sparse weeds, open flats, etc.) because we feel the bass in those places are less pressured. We leave the heavy cover stuff to the masses of anglers with power gear. Stained or silted waters aren't an issue. Midwest finesse is as much an off the bottom presentation as it is a bottom presentation. Swimming the bait slowly just above bottom with shakes and pauses can be just as, if not more effective, than letting it sit on bottom. Even what we call a "straight swim" retrieve can be exceedingly effective when the bass are active. Don't think of this as a bottom bait - big mistake. Also, one reason we like the gopher heads so much is because they come in a variety of colors including fluorescent red and chartreuse. In stained water, we frequently use bright colored jig heads. Does it really make a difference? Depends who you ask, but it is the equivalent of dipping your plastic tails in bright dye, just on the other end of the bait. Elaztech doesn't take dyes well, if at all. This is our workaround. If we feel we need extra flash or vibration, we simply add a tiny spinner blade to the existing set-up. -T9

^^^ This ^^^ Most filler spools will fill 2 reels (use cheap backing line), and the line is usually good for the entire season. I don't see it as much of a cost issue unless you're filling up an entire arsenal of reels. Do what's best for you though. -T9

Regular knots won't hold with this line. I tried both a clinch as well as an improved clinch and both slipped easily under pressure. It did seem like a Palomar would hold, and their recommended 'NanoFil knot', which is actually a double Palomar might be good reassurance. For straight ties to lures though, I actually liked a double-line 5 turn uni knot best. For line-to-leader knots, I tested a few. • Triple Surgeon • Uni-Uni • Seguar knot • Alberto • Double-line Albright (~11 turns); Berkley Recommended • J-knot The first two were horrible; the next two were OK, but would cut themselves with a bit more pressure; but the last two are the best! Use either a J-knot, their recommended 11-turn double Albright, or perhaps a modified Albright (Crazy Alberto) with extra wraps (since so many people like it). Whatever you use, be certain to test knots well before using. I pretty much settled on the J-knot, and it was solid. One word of caution - the key is to tie a good clean knot. This line does not like to be crossed over itself under strain. Test all leader knots with an appropriate tug before fishing to make sure everything seated down correctly. One final comment. I also checked a loop knot with this line. There are several versions of loop knots, but I quickly tested a triple surgeons loop on a crappie jig and found that it broke too easily to be recommended. Again, I think it is in the way the line crosses itself with certain knots. Take your time, cinch everything down slowly and with lubrication, and then check the knot under strain before using. I might revisit this line again this year in slightly higher pound tests, perhaps 6# or more likely 8#. We'll see. It does have some great properties, and a friend has been using it with success in the 10# version. I like going much lighter usually. -T9

1/4-20 stainless nyloc hex nut...easily 1/3 the price of most regular dropshot sinkers, and 50X cheaper than tungsten. Only a nickel each if you buy in bulk. In deep water, just add a second one to the line. The nylon insert protects the line. The fish are watching the worm, not the sinker... -T9

I really liked the stuff when it first came out. The feel (through the line/rod) was better than normal braid in my opinion, it casted better/farther than normal braid, it handled great, and they even made it in that awesome chartreuse color after the first year. I really liked its positive attributes, figured out knots that wouldn't slip with it, etc., but in the end, the overall knot strength, either direct or with a leader, was just a killer for the way I fish. I really wanted to like it. Can't say I didn't give it a fair shot though -T9

And mine makes the third strike - it's outta' here...but I did give it a more than fair shot, using it almost exclusively for a year and a half. In the end, the few negatives simply outweighed all the positives. -T9

I'd just as soon they not add any scent to the plastics, but it doesn't stop me from buying and using a particular brand of bait if they do. I don't worry about it too much 'cause I don't put much stock into it's effect on my bass fishing outcomes. -T9

I didn't know anybody still read Field & Stream. With nearly 70 views and no responses yet, you might be the only one. Any chance there is an online link to the story? Hard to comment without having read the piece in question. -T9

I've fished out of a 16' jon boat for the past 8 years. Very easy to imagine 3 adults in that size boat with just a 15" transom getting swamped by a good wake. Some pontoon boats on my home lake run up to 300hp or with twin 150s now days. A pontoon coming in and turning into and then away from the jon boaters, or running by at a very close distance, could easily accomplish this. Sadly, many people I've observed in pontoons have no clue as to the wake their boats make, or to safe boating distances. I routinely took a wave or three over the back of my jon on many trips from careless boaters or being turned in a bad direction when a large wave hit. Sad... -T9

While you will find some variation among regular Ned Rig users depending upon their location and water being fished, I think you'll find most guys would pin the 1/16-oz. head as the standard. If you only go with one, choose it. Keep in mind the original concept is based upon finding bass in shallow water (usually 8' - 10' or less) year round. The 1/10-oz or 3/32-oz (depending upon brand) is like a rock to most users except under very windy conditions, when fishing deeper than 15' (a rarity except in some very clear Ozark waters), or when straight swimming a grub. We own them "just in case," but rarely ever go that heavy. Much more likely to throw a 1/32-oz before we'd throw a 3/32-oz. in most instances. Remember, "no feel" - the lightest you can get by with is best in nearly all instances. -T9

Umm, well kinda', sorta...could be -T9

Yeah, try skip casting small, subtle baits or even throwing your bait onto the shore and then pulling it off slowly into the water. This will largely depend upon the exact layout of your pond though. Also, fish into the sun when possible, or focus on the side of the pond receiving the most wind. -T9

Here's an old thread that goes into some discussion on the topic: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/6510-jig-as-drop-shot-weight/ In my case, there are too many negatives to worry about. Are you working the jig, or working the dropshot worm? Are the bass you're trying to catch feeding on the bottom, or suspended up in the water column some? When you get bit, do you know which bait got bit? Are you going to set the hook like the little finesse worm got bit, or like the jig got bit? Does it make sense to drag around something on the bottom with a hook in it and likely increase your snagging potential, or collect moss and weeds? If they're biting baits on the bottom, why not just toss the jig by itself? If you're pitching your dropshot around cover like docks, logs or weeds, again, why have the extra hook to hang on stuff? If you use a jig with a weed guard, won't you have to set a little harder on the chance that the bass picked up the jig and not nose-hooked worm? Not saying it won't work, and likely depends on the exact situation (lake, cover, etc.) you're fishing. I simply don't see any real advantages to doing it. Too many unknowns for me. If it works so well, why not use a jig/punch weight/skirt for your Carolina rig weight, too, because you occasionally get a sinker bite there, also. -T9

You'll still catch fish on your somewhat similar rig, but at some point you'll definitely want to track down and purchase some of the original components to try. BPS now carries their own branded version of the mushroom head jig. -T9

You can do what you want, but I don't recommend combining the two - bad idea IMHO. Throw one or the other, just not together on the same outfit/setup. -T9