Team9nine

Graph it thoroughly first (if you have a boat), then go back and fish it. You'll find that most long stretches of riprap have certain sections that are simply more productive, more often than others. Beyond that, let the water and weather conditions dictate presentation. If no boat, then you simply have to fish it enough to learn the best sections. -T9

Ned used to use Gulp before he switched to Pro-Cure, so I'm sure it is safe to use. -T9

Not much to add other than you either aren't reading all my posts on the topic, or you are failing to understand the point I've been trying to make. See one of my quoted posts above where I state it is not new or innovative. I'm agreeing with you. The Ned Rig is simply a resurrection or reincarnation of the simple approach and basic finesse methods and baits developed by Chuck Wood and a few others in the 1950s and 1960s in this country's heartland. It is more than a bait - it is an approach or style of fishing (Midwest Finesse) that simply takes advantage of some newer bait technology (for frugality and efficiency) along with Ned's added "101 bass" philosophy. Everybody keeps missing this point because they fail to research the history behind it. Instead, they all just want to focus on the "new", "hot" bait. -T9

Practice, practice, practice - about the best advice I can give. Who cares how many brakes you have on or off? Unless you're in some type of competition, or trying to toss really light baits (or pitch small lures really long distances) use what works for you. Every reel is different and will likely require a different brake setting. Sure, very good casters can run with minimal or no brakes - so what? -T9

Bingo! This is what most everyone who wants to jump on the bait's bandwagon is missing. Not just a bait - a system; an approach; a mindset. -T9

We've pretty much already established that a "dink" is any bass under 12". See the following thread: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/148117-what-do-you-consider-a-dink-in-terms-of-largemouth-bass/?hl=dink As for a "quality" bass, I believe Indiana DNR defines that as any bass over 18," which for this area I would tend to agree with. -T9

Alberto and J-Knot both work fine for what you are wanting to do, as does the Seaguar knot. I personally don't recommend the uni-uni, though many use it without issue. But any of the 3 mentioned will work well. I've used them all with much lighter line/leader connections than what you are proposing. -T9

No new name because nobody throws or promotes the split shot rig anymore. If you wrote a few articles on it for your local newspaper, then did a few more for In-Fisherman, Bassmaster, or some other national mag, maybe even post a YouTube video or two, we might have a new rig - the "Big Bill" Rig. Just think about all those striped bass anglers who threw a fit when someone "invented" the Alabama Rig - LOL. Seriously though, there is nothing new or innovative about the technique (Ned Rig). Ned would be the first to tell you this, I imagine, and anyone who says otherwise is new to the game (IMHO). Unfortunately, so many people have jumped on this bandwagon that the original concept and specifics have been lost to the masses, and the marketing. If anybody took the time to do a little digging, they'd find the truth, and everything would then be clear. -T9

Hate to be the one to break the news, but I'm afraid it is so. Even says it's the NED rig right on the package...Won't beat the crowd, so you might as well join them -T9

Sounds like a spun hub to me, but you won't know for certain until you take it off and have it checked. Basically when spun, most will work fine in forward or reverse at just idle speed, but the minute you try and gun it, the prop slips and you don't go anywhere. Relatively simple and cheap fix. Always carry a spare prop and tools to change it onboard just for such situations. -T9

^^ This ^^ Went to a TM only lake just the other day strictly to avoid the jet skis, water skiers, wakeboarders, and various other drunk, loud and partying people who only launch their boats twice a year and have no sense of common courtesy or general water safety. Already seen video of one vehicle at the local big lake that floated off the ramp and sunk. Managed to catch 80 bass in just 4 hours while only having to fish among 8 or 9 other fishermen mostly chasing bluegills and catfish. Saw two big bass boats and a nice Lund there, too. Very enjoyable trip. Our lakes will return to normal beginning Tuesday. -T9

Not quite - they're both very similar in that regard. Check out the following video that will answer all your questions on the matter. Oh, one quick tip...when you start with a new bait, grab the head just behind the hook and stretch the heck out of the back half of the bait. It will help dislodge the salt and make it dissolve faster. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bd-YvSXhnmw -T9

Don't worry about TRDs too much and instead look for Z-Man ZinkerZ (the Senko-like bait) or the Strike King 3X Zero (both made of the same material), then simply cut them in half. It's what we all used before they created the TRDs, and what many of us still use instead of...It's even cheaper to do it this way. Might want to grab some 3X SK Finesse worms while you're at it. too. -T9

Lots and lots of info out there already, as well as what's been written above. One thing I will add is that it's not a magic bait. There are times when larger lures will simply outfish the Ned Rig badly. These are usually pre-spawn trips with conditions that most bassers would consider to be ideal - cloud cover, heavy wind, warming trend. Doesn't always happen, but it's been noted by MF regulars several times. It is just another tool for the arsenal, albeit one of the most consistent fish catchers you'll find under the right conditions (i.e., when following directions). In the sense that a shaky head and a Ned Rig are both just versions of jig-worming which has been around since the 1960s, then you could say they are at least all similar. However, Midwest Finesse (Ned Rig) anglers consider shakyhead fishing to be a form of "power finesse". It uses larger hooks, larger jigheads, and larger baits. It also is based around at least a semi-weedless (Tex-posed) presentation. Midwest finesse is small hooks , small baits, light jigheads, and a generally open hook presentation. To quote Ned: -T9

Braid works perfectly fine - it's what Ned uses, though we do use a short leader of fluorocarbon with it. 8# to 10# braid with a 6# or 8# fluoro leader is the standard with this style of fishing. http://www.in-fisherman.com/midwest-finesse/midwest-finesse-tackle-bass-rods-reels-and-lines/ -T9

It's all a game of probabilities. Most days, I don't worry much about color. I simply start with certain baits in intelligent/popular color patterns and then go fishing. If I start getting bit on a particular bait, then I might change up color to see if they'll hit another color better - but I just as likely might not. After all, changing to another color has the equal chance of being the wrong move instead of the right. I rarely waste time changing color if I'm not getting bit in the first place. More likely in those cases I'm simply throwing the wrong bait, not the wrong color in that bait. If two of us are in the boat with the same type bait tied on, then we always make sure to have different colors tied on as a simple test. If you really want to have some fun, as well as see how important (or not important) color is, go fishing with just one bait style all day, but bring as many colors as possible and switch after every fish or two. The results might be enlightening. Every once in a while we'll stumble on a particular color pattern that just seems to work, but it's mostly been dumb luck more than intelligent design on our part. Many, many more days that it hasn't seemed to matter. -T9

Hard to say without knowing exact details. You always seem to lose a couple with the small hooks, but shouldn't be too extraordinary. I really prefer to bump up to #4s or small #2s most of the time. Also, you'll lose more bass on small jigheads with sickle hooks. I frequently open the gap slightly with my thumbnail on these small hooks. Also, make sure the plastic you're fishing isn't overpowering the small hook (again, gap). Then there is simply getting your rod/line/hookset dialed in. Every combination is different, so play around with different types of hooksets and amounts of pressure with whatever you're using, or consider changing out one of the components. For example, I mostly use light braid with a leader for these small jighead & plastics, but I won't use an XF rod, instead going to a more moderate-fast taper. Lets me lay into them pretty good if I want (think long, sweeping Charlie Brewer hookset). I usually let them load up before swinging.

Used to keep detailed records like that, though not any more. Every once in a while a lake around here will get really good for a short spell before everyone else catches on. For example, June 8, 2011 I fished a small public reservoir. The gate ticket registered 12:19 when I entered, and I was launched and headed to my first spot at 12:30. Turned out to be my only spot that day. Dog groomer called at 2:39, so was back at the ramp at 2:45 and headed out. Anchored on one structure spot for the entire time and caught 51 bass without ever moving the boat in 2 hrs and 9 min. Every single fish was a keeper (>14"), all on the one same rod/reel/bait. 5 were over 4# with another 3-14 to go with it. On that same lake a different time, I once had a pair of good friends sit and watch me catch 26 keeper bass in a row off a single spot on a deep crankbait. They couldn't believe it at the time. One of the two later invited a popular tv fishing show host to come out and film one of his shows there with him because of that. Stuff like that doesn't happen often, but it sure is fun when it does. Can't recall ever having the weird number alignment though. That's the stuff of conspiracy theorists BTW, that particular lake is becoming tough as nails now, so it's time to wait until another lake peaks one of these days. . -T9

If your water is conducive to swimbaits and A-Rigs (when seasonally appropriate), don't rule these baits out. If you watch the pro tours closely, you'll see soft swimbaits in particular play a part in a lot of the bigger sacks. -T9

Once upon a time, when the Color-C-Lector first came on the market, most all the major manufacturers jumped on board, both soft and hard plastic manufacturers. It created a slew of "unusual" colors in hard baits. I remember the "pumpkinseed revolution" (LOL). Bagley baits in particular, but several others. We couldn't hardly sell those things no matter how hard we tried...but they were labeled as a particular Color-C-Lector color. We got all kinds of purple, black and blue crankbaits back then. If you do an eBay search for some of the old lures you'll probably be surprised at what was made. After that "fad" kind of wore off, and people simply stopped buying the weird colored baits, manufacturers had to discontinue them from most of their lineups, simply because they wouldn't sell. It's all in the minds of anglers. -T9

Others might disagree, but if you've never tried fluorocarbon before, InvisX is probably one of the best lines a guy familiar with mono or coply can buy to try. It handles much more like a nylon/copoly, and has some of the best knot strength of any fluorocarbon, plus it is relatively inexpensive (from a FC point of view). Another area where people go wrong (IMO) is in buying the same pound test fluoro as they currently use in nylon/copoly. Nearly every brand of nylon/copoly is severely underrated on the spool, whereas most fluorocarbons are just a pound or two different. Therefore, if you're used to using 12# copoly, that actually might have a breaking strength of 16-17#, don't buy a 12# fluoro to try as a comparison. Buy a 15# fluoro if you want a better "apples to apples" test. -T9

Pretty much...Sniper is the more easier handling and manageable line, Shooter is the more stiffer, abrasion resistant line - a bit tougher to handle. Haven't messed with Defier yet, but it appears to be along the lines of a Yozuri Hybrid type line, a next gen co-poly that resists UV and doesn't absorb water. On a separate note, I'd be shocked if 6# InvisX tested much greater than 7 pounds or so actual breaking strength. I'd guess nowhere near 10#. Most fluorocarbon lines tend to break within a pound or two of their stated values. I've thrown a lot of InvisX over the years and it is pretty soft stuff. I've never felt like it's strength was that underrated. Probably the extra stretch that makes it's strength a bit deceiving. -T9

Can't say I've ever seen that one before. It has a very unique fin arrangement. -T9

Z-Man just posted a brand new video about the "system" as they referred to it this evening. Some nice underwater footage, along with several different versions of their baits. Keep in mind that in shallow water, things like tiny brush hogs and 4" Zoom lizards can be killers on the little jigheads, also. They just don't hold up quite as well. Anyway, -T9

Yes, I consider it cheating. Unfortunately, very common on our two major lakes. Been going on for more than 25 years, so I don't expect it to change. Most large events have a general statement or two about "cheating" or "violations," but nothing literally prohibiting the action of running in an idle zone. Comes down to someone has to officially protest and force the issue, otherwise everyone just considers it acceptable action around here. Most times CO will ticket you if caught, but if they don't stick around and submit the report to the tourney director, nothing happens. They usually don't unless you really upset them when they pull you over. Plus the idle areas are so large, they simply can't be everywhere. Most always get away with it. -T9