Jump to content

Team9nine

Super User
  • Posts

    6,223
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    61

Everything posted by Team9nine

  1. They're biting, guys Skipped the Boat Show last weekend to go fishing. With the current forecast, I might skip it again this weekend, too - LOL...
  2. Whatever fits in this little bag, which is a lot more than you'd think. Guessing maybe a couple 2-3 pounds worth of plastics. If I can't catch bass on what I can carry in this little worm bag, I'm guessing the bite for the day is likely better on something else, and carrying and sorting through a couple dozen more pounds of plastic isn't going to be the answer. -T9
  3. I think I've thrown every color of braid made at this point, both with and without leaders. Even though I personally prefer to use a leader, I can honestly say that it has been a rare day where I thought I got any less bites tying direct to braid. Perfect example was just this past weekend with yellow braid. A dozen bass landed in ice-out conditions with a jig, and 9 of the 12 came on a straight tie using yellow braid. -T9
  4. Do a search (top right corner of page) for FG knot as there has been quite a few posts the past couple months talking about it. It is likely the strongest, thinnest "regular" freshwater connecting knot you can tie. Alberto and J knot practically being tied for the #2 spot. Takes a little bit of practice though, and not always the easiest knot to tie out on the water. Great for initial setups done at home/in garage though -T9
  5. Everything I've read and been able to test has stated an exact 1:1 ratio, each wrap back crossing over just one initial wrap up, gives the strongest knot. That said, I usually tie mine with one less wrap back down (7 up, 6 down) to try and decrease the likelihood of an errant wrap. Two other knots that test out as good or better than Alberto that you might play with are the J knot and the FG. Uni-uni is the easiest to tie correctly IMO, but I can't get myself to use it knowing the raw strength data I've seen (plus that knot doesn't like big differences in diameters). -T9
  6. Special J I noticed it only took three K-Pink pieces before the opinion disclaimer hit the page Tournament bass fishing appears to be stuck about where it is now. As you mentioned in your piece, you put the ideal model into play and the pros didn't realize (or care). Along a similar line, overall, the PAA failed miserably as not enough pros wanted to support the right (necessary) moves/changes. When ESPN couldn't get the marketing and eyeballs to budge enough and finally sold it off, that was a sign that things weren't going anywhere fast, and that growth (expanded markets) was going to be a problem. Mr. McKinnis had some nice ideas when he bought it, but he has failed to act on them, so no progress as of yet. Thankfully, the industry has received an infusion of new blood courtesy of marketing to HS and college anglers which will keep the status quo going for another decade or so, at least. I've run the numbers much deeper than K-Pink has and it's a Ponzi scheme that starts at the ground up, and relies on numbers of members and participants at ground zero (at least to a significant degree) to funnel the money to the top to make the Pro payouts look as good as they do now. MLF is the only place where I still see a glimmer of hope for true progress of the sport. -T9 (Brian)
  7. On one hand, it would seem like more wraps just means increased likelihood of incorrectly crossed braids and a weaker knot. On the other, perhaps adding more wraps actually decreases the importance of any one wrap??? Would be fun to test with the proper equipment This is why it is always the knot you tie best that works best, and not just any one given knot over another... -T9
  8. At least for me, it seems like low to mid 50s in the spring is when they start getting good, but you want to be throwing them into a "warming water" situation. Interestingly in the fall, you can sometimes get them to eat it all the way down to the upper 40s. Your mileage may vary. -T9
  9. The leader/line is going to break at the weakest point. In your case, you have two knots tied in the 8 lb. FC. One tied to your bait, and the other tied to your braid main line. Apparently, the weaker knot in your system is your Alberto, which generally I wouldn't expect to happen. For example, compared to the Uni-Uni, the Alberto is about 20% stronger. I'm guessing there is something not quite right in the way you are tying the Alberto. If the braided lines cross back on each other incorrectly, it will weaken the Alberto. That might be what is happening. I use the Alberto extensively and have never used more than 8 wraps in either direction. Might try the extra wraps though to see if it helps correct your problem. -T9
  10. I don't know about "best," but Rat-L-Traps and spinnerbaits are two good ones. Tactics: fish the windblown banks and weed flats. -T9
  11. Not certain why they are short of just being something discontinued, but after reading this post, I thought I'd throw a pair of my NIB RC1.5s on Ebay just to see what would happen. At $41 for the pair and still 2 days to go. Think I'll throw a couple more up there for sale at that price point Thanks for the heads up TxHawgs - LOL. -T9
  12. You'll get lots of opinions on this one, I'm sure. As to your questions: 1 - I use pure fluorocarbon on most everything with the couple exceptions you've mentioned, so yes, I consider it the best line for most applications. In particular, I like the increased abrasion resistance and "feel." 2 - Have never had any trouble with fluoro, and I never use any of the conditioners, so not sure what to recommend in your situation. While I haven't thrown Sniper, one recommendation to get started might be to try a spool of InvisX and see what happens. I think it fishes about as close to mono as any fluoro, so it might be an easier transition line for you. The other thought is you mentioned trouble throwing anything light. Being more dense, fluoro will have a higher startup inertia than mono will. This might be causing part of your problem depending upon your definition of "light." It could be a setup issue in this regard, or just trying something too light initially. -T9
  13. No doubt - raw materials is obviously just one component, but likely playing some part in the price increase. I think your theory on seeing what people will actually pay because of higher end baits in the market certainly plays into the mix, too - Like having the low cost house on the block which moves up greatest in price due to normal appreciation of the higher end neighboring houses...or a rising tide lifts all boats Once anglers got used to paying $9-$25 for a high end crankbait, Bandits jumping from $4 to $6 isn't such a big deal, because they're still cheap compared to the competition. -T9
  14. No, but jigs do, and that was what the subject of the thread was about ("What has happened with jig prices?") -T9
  15. Don't forget about the price of lead...basically up 3X-8X beginning in 2004 compared to historical values
  16. Despite being a boat owner for the past 25 years or so, due to time constraints and convenience, I probably still log 50-75 bank days each year. And before that period, I always fished from the bank because it was my only option. As such, I've likely caught thousands of bass from the bank, so here are a few of the observations and conclusions I have made during these endeavors. NOT CASTING TO OR ALONG THE BANK – This is far and away the biggest mistake I see most bank bound bassers make. The old observation about noticing ‘bank fishermen cast out towards the boats’ and why ‘boat fishermen cast in toward the shore’ is really true. Bass, by nature, are largely shallow water fish. They are also very cover oriented. When you combine these two concepts you have the basis for the start of an approach. In most of the lakes I fish, the best cover is along the bank. And the best way to fish that cover is to cast parallel, or nearly so, down a bank. Sometimes, just short pitches are all it takes. Why waste your time throwing out into the middle of the lake when so many fish are at your feet? The only time I throw out into deeper water (say >45 degrees off bank) is if I’m fishing a point or a known piece of structure. Other than that, all casts are within 10’ of the shoreline. The clearer the water or the more open the shoreline, the longer and more parallel the casts. In heavy cover or small openings, small pitches and flips will suffice. Any piece of cover, no matter how insignificant gets a cast. Rocks, drains, washed in logs, weeds, lay downs, docks, you name it. Just be quiet and still and you’ll be surprised how many fish you’ll catch within 10’ of yourself. COVER WATER – Mistake number two IMO is standing in one spot for half an hour or more and making cast after cast. Have you ever noticed how most bass boaters are always on the trolling motor covering water? If you accept the fact that most fish you’re chasing are shallow water object oriented, then probability says that the more water and spots you can cover the greater your odds of running into an aggressive (read biting) fish. This is especially important when first learning a body of water. The more water you cover the more spots (holding areas) you’ll discover. I will typically make 3-5 casts from a given area on the bank and then move 20-40’ down the bank for the next 3-5 casts. On and on it goes. You can easily cover a couple miles of bank in just a few hours. Remember, you're trying to find as many spots and as many bass as you can. Don’t wait for them to come to you, go to them. USE ONLY ONE LURE (but carry backups) – How many times have you seen this mistake made? Someone bass fishing from shore with a big tackle box, casting a lure for 20-30 minutes then digging into his box and changing to another lure, only to repeat the process. At this rate you might only fish 2 or 3 spots in a day because you're spending all your time sorting through tackle options. The largest tackle box I ever carry with me is a tiny, flat drop-down that goes around your waist and attaches to your belt. Often times it is only an old lure box with a couple extra baits or a Ziploc bag stuffed into a shirt or jacket pocket. Less can really be more. There are several advantages to this. One, it lets you cover water by not wasting time changing baits, thinking they’ll hit something else better. Another is that it makes you more mobile. Anymore, I’ll frequently fish an entire trip without a lure change. As long as you pay attention to retying when appropriate, you’ll rarely lose too many baits. Remember, you’re fishing shallow cover close to the bank. Most times, even if you do hang, you can reach out and unsnag lures that get stuck. As a side note here for those of you fishing small ponds regularly, use a different lure each trip. I once had the good fortune of having 5 ponds located within my subdivision. The theory of fish becoming conditioned is definitely true, especially in these smaller bodies of water. I can’t count the number of times I’ve proven this to myself. Day one I’ll go out and catch 30 bass. If I go back out the next day with the same lure, my results will be cut in half. By the time I try this a third or fourth day, I might only catch a few. These fish get used to seeing the same bait day after day, so change up! Try a crankbait one trip, a topwater the next. Jigs on the third trip and maybe worms after that. After a week or two of not seeing the same bait twice you can usually go back in with the original bait and they’ll bite it well. FISH THE CONDITIONS – At first, this might not make much sense. Or maybe it’s too obvious. I’m referring to choosing the bait you throw based on the weather and water conditions you are faced with. It is usually best to not randomly select baits. Base your lure choice on weather conditions first, water (lake) conditions second while always keeping seasonal patterns in mind. For example, if you are getting ready to head out and you’re dealing with a sunny, frontal day, choose baits like jigs, worms, tubes, or "Ned." On the other hand, if you have cloudy and windy conditions, maybe pack spinnerbaits, swimming jigs, shallow crankbaits, buzz baits, etc. Once you get to the lake, or if you already know what conditions to expect (water and cover), then use those to fine-tune your selections. Things like brighter colors, larger baits, or noisemakers in stained water and thinner, natural colored baits in clearer water. Likewise, if you are fishing open water conditions use grubs, crankbaits, top waters and such versus baits like jigs, worms, Senkos, single spins and so forth for heavy cover situations. TIME YOUR FISHING – This is another one that may slip by most people. The best time to go fishing is whenever you can, no doubt about that. But whenever possible, choose the days and times you get to fish based on conditions. This little tip will truly maximize the number of bites you’ll get in a day. For example, everyone knows that bass generally seem to bite best first thing in the morning or right before dark, typical low light conditions. But they also bite extremely well on a good cloudy day with an approaching storm. Days with a dropping barometer come to mind, as do windy days. Try and avoid those nice, sunny, post frontal days if you can. This tactic also increases the odds of having more room for you to fish, as most bank fishermen don’t like to put up with inclement weather. Another example of this tactic relates to time of year. Those extremely tough clear water lakes and ponds will give up some surprisingly good fish in the cold-water period or at night through the summer. Vice-versa, inherently murky water lakes usually aren’t all that great real early and late in the year, but can be great with the warmer weather and water conditions. If you have your choice of a couple different types of water to fish, choose according to which fits the given conditions and seasonal patterns best. Finally, those odd times that create short windows of opportunity. The perfect example of this is a couple of the small ponds I fish. Almost without fail, one of the most consistent patterns is fishing the incoming flats or drains after a good rain. While you can always seem to count on one or two fish from these areas, they become incredible spots when you are able to coincide your trip with fresh, incoming water. Spots that only give up a fish or two now may give up 5 or 10 fish without moving, sometimes more. The bass realize this is a temporary feeding opportunity and act accordingly. You should too. FISH SPOTS (the exception) – Earlier I said covering water is my preferred tactic. This is true, especially when fishing a new body of water that is not familiar to you. However, with enough time on a given lake or pond, certain spots will seem to consistently give up a fish or two most every trip. These areas or spots are worth taking a little extra time on before moving on. As I mentioned, small drains on my ponds always seem to hold bass consistently and I will frequently spend up to 20 minutes or more fishing these areas. The general rule of thumb is if you catch a bass on a spot, it is worth taking a few extra minutes to thoroughly scout the area. Sometimes the reason is obvious such as the drain example. Many times though you won’t be able to identify what it is about the particular location or bank. Some just seem to hold fish better than others. Your job is to be aware of these areas as they unfold to you and fish them appropriately. Then feel free to keep scooting along the bank between these hotspots. -T9
  17. I'm sure Catt can chime in on this one with some good details. That jig with worm trailer has been around almost as long as the jig has. I believe Larry Nixon was the first I ever heard mention it way back when he was guiding. I think it might have even originated from down around the Toledo Bend area. Larry still mentions it in stories to this day, usually as one of the better summer alternatives to traditional jig trailers. -T9
  18. Absolutely done intentionally - been doing it for years and years myself. Black sharpie, or spray paint specially formulated for plastics; even make our own out of black closed cell foam. We refer to them as "stealth buoys." Orange or yellow buoys are only good if you want to make friends and meet new people... I keep my mouth shut -T9
  19. I had a friend (now deceased) who was a custom crankbait maker, and he would send me pictures and stories of these MegaBass and Lucky Crafty knock-offs. He had a huge belt sander and took great joy in shearing these high dollar baits in half to see what made them tick, then do the same for their knock-offs. Here is a sample of a couple of his comments/conversations we had over this exact subject: "Luck is about all you have going for you on most of the knock-off baits I have seen. After cutting apart a whole lot of knock-off baits, it is rare to find even one that is made right. Mismatched halves, enough internal casting flashing to alter the rattle weights, weights and rattles that do not return to the same position from cast to cast, leakage and weight balls that do not stay in their track (weight transfer type baits). On one bait I found plastic shavings (drill bit) used for rattles. If you want to find out why a bait won't work, look inside. If a picture is worth a thousand words...well, you know the rest. Here is a Megabass Griffon Knock off." Pic 1 (Top) - It looks like the real thing from the outside. Pic 2 (Middle) - The weight in the front is contained in the front section, but the weight in the center should move back and forth in a channel, but it will not stay in the channel which allows imbalance between casts. Pic 3 (Bottom) - The ball in this pic is to the rear, as it would be on the cast, but the ball is so small that it makes little difference, plus it can fall out of the track and go off to the side or to the bottom. Try to tune this puppy. "A word of caution when buying KO baits, especially anything with a weight transfer system. Make sure you put hooks on the baits and run them in the water before painting. On the Megabass bait pictured the weight transfer ball rolls easily while its in your hand, but after a few casts the ball falls out of the groove and puts the bait off balance. Without paint you can see it and can sometimes get the ball back in place by holding it upside down and banging it in the palm of your hand. Once its painted, you can't see it. Of the five I had, I also had 3 that leaked water, but hopefully your topcoat will correct that." "Guys, forget all about the look and finish of the Lucky Craft (LC), the real difference is on the inside. I have cross sectioned a lot of baits and I can tell you that the knock-offs don't measure up internally. Sorry, I could not find the Lucky Craft crankbait, but I did find an LC pointer for comparison (left). The second picture (right) is a knock-off (KO) deep diver, pretty much the standard of most knock-off baits." "The LC will have a wall thickness that is smooth and even, very little variance in thickness from end to end, about .006" max. The weights are molded into place and there are no rattles. On the knock-off bait, the wall thickness varies by as much as .045". You can see in the picture the interior is very uneven. The small bar-like features in the rear are the weight transfer system. The ball in this bait will not stay in the channel, making the weight transfer system usless. The ball at the front is used for the belly weight and the rattle. Tuning one of these things is next to impossible. Some of the KO baits that use weld spatter or drill shavings for rattles, well, you can imagine it never is in the same place from cast to cast. So if you ever wonder why it runs left on one cast and right on the next, there is your answer. With all the decent cranks out there at a reasonable price, Bomber, Norman or Bandit to name a few, why mess with a KO? You can put a dog in a tux and teach it to dance, but it's still a dog." -T9
  20. I agree completely - my "system" has nothing to do with performance, sensitivity, etc. It is a very good predictor of overall balance and feel, though, regardless of the reel being used/added. Those rods that start out with the best balance ratios always seem to end up being the most "comfortable" and easy to fish with. Those with the worst just never become great sticks from a "feel" standpoint (subjective, obviously) regardless of how I may weight them. As an example, I have an old Lightning Rod that has better "out of the box" balance points than any other rod I own, and as such, from a balance and "feel" standpoint, it compares right up there with my most expensive custom builts or Loomis'. Not the lightest, not the most sensitive, not the highest quality, but an absolutely great balanced rod that is a joy to fish with. The numbers support/translate to the experience. Interestingly, different models from the exact same line can be drastically different in this regard. As for total weight/length ratios, that is just an interesting stat to compare overall rod builds from different manufacturers. My custom builts are right at the top of the list in this regard, and the list pretty much follows a most expensive to least expensive progression. Not in every single case, but the trend in this regard seems to be that you really do get what you pay for when using that metric for comparison. -T9
  21. If its a good quality hook already on a plug out of the box, then I don't do any changing. Simply sharpen as needed. Most stock hooks are pretty decent on the majority of baits these days. I will sometimes upgrade hooks sizes slightly on a few specific baits though for a variety of reasons (balance, better bite, etc.), but nothing too drastic. Otherwise, I only replace worn out trebles. Actually, I have been known to remove all wide gap trebles on the few baits that come with them As for red hooks - pfffftttt -T9
  22. Good answers from DVT and iabass8. There is no standard. That said, I have my own system I use with every rod I own. I simply measure the static balance point (what iabass8 labeled the "neutral point") without reel from the end of the butt to that exact balance point (BL). I also measure total length (TL) and get actual weight (Wt). With these three numbers I can now assemble a variety of meaningful calculations to compare rod against rod. One is the ratio of balance point to overall length expressed as a percentage (BL/TL *100) Another is the distance from the balance point to the center point of the reel seat A third is the overall build length to weight ratio expressed as inches/ounce (TL/Wt) These measurements and calculations allow me to compare rod against rod with a good degree of confidence. It becomes quite easy to see which rods are going to have the best balance "out of the box," which will feel top heavy, and which ones are actually built the lightest for their length. I have all these plus a few other stats for every rod I own stuck in an Excel spreadsheet, spinning on one worksheet and baitcasters on another. I can them simply sort by any one particular column in whatever order I want to rank or compare rods for any given attribute. It also becomes incredibly simple to walk into a tackle store and can get these measurements for any rod I'm interested in, then simply plug them into the Excel sheet and see exactly where that rod will fall in my lineup compared to every other rod I own. I've found this system to be very useful. -T9
  23. Sounds like that rod might be perfect. I'm not sure I'd go much lighter. A Flash Mob Jr with 3 1/8-oz heads and 2 teasers, rigged with 3 Keitech 3.8s and 2 smaller Keitech teasers weighs 1.75 ounces. I throw it on an XH 7'4" rod rated to 1.5 ounces and I can tell I'm pushing the upper limits of the rod on the cast when it loads up. If your state allows a full 5 hook rig, or you use heavier heads, you could easily push up toward the 3 ounce mark. -T9
  24. 18.2 - 21.7% accurate -T9
  25. Who dug up this old post??? All those charts, graphs, and apps remind me of the old saying, "Even a broken clock is right twice a day." -T9
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.