Team9nine

Never heard of one being caught here. They are actually not overly common on most waters. We do have some big carp though.

Put it off and put it off because I thought the worst. Optometrist had been telling me I could use them for years. Finally got to the point where my vision was affecting my fishing (hard to tie knots, thread eyelets, etc. doing things close-up) as well as everyday things like reading labels, books, etc. so I broke down and bought a pair. Went progressive like you did, and realized I'd been a dumb a** for putting it off so long. Fastest pair of glasses I've ever adjusted to that I can remember. It does take a week or two before you will naturally develop the right distance and perspective to view various things, but the more you wear them, the better that should become. Thought I'd be walking into walls and tripping over my own feet, but that passed quickly. I know everyone is different, but I'm sold on wearing them at this point. Had the same thing with getting tired of switching between regular glasses, reading glasses, computer glasses, etc. Now, one pair for everything -T9

Buffalo...

Yep, but they get away with some poor design or QC by marketing their baits as, "...the right erratic action with the wandering and searching motions...", something I would simply refer to as, "doesn't run right." -T9

Depends upon your age and whether you are concerned with being able to successfully reproduce at some point in the future Plastics tend to release VOCs (volatile organic compounds) when heated/melted. Cooking food in a microwave that has had these compounds released (and likely coating the inside of the microwave) isn't the brightest idea in the world...but then again, some people also eat fish out of the White River -T9

Like all other line types, there is no standard with braided line ratings, as such, labeled ratings are somewhat subjective. You need to keep in mind that braid is rated differently than other lines. Most superlines are very strong, actually testing 2X to 3X their labeled strength. So why the lower rating? It is because they typically lose 50% (+/- 10%) of their strength when a knot is tied in them. As such, they label the test rating of braid based on the approximate breaking strength of a knot in their line, and not the line itself. And, since they have no clue which knot an angler will tie, or how well they will tie it, they have to make an educated/arbitrary guess as to what pound test rating to put on their packages. That leads to much of the variability you see (and pointed out). -T9

Maybe in California, but with all due respect, I can assure you the bass here in Indiana will chase down and try to capture dragonflies. It happens so fast, you never know if they actually catch them or not. I have sat on the front deck of my boat and watched for long periods of time, fascinated by the behavior. On one particular local lake, the specific dragonfly species is small and yellow, and very prolific, and a yellow hollow-bodied frog fished fast across the shallow open water moss edges will draw big numbers of strikes from bass versus other colors because the bass are so keyed in to them. -T9

At least until a few years ago, you could still purchase the Hover Lure, King of Bass even comes in a complete kit...

Using an old Ugly Stick works perfectly fine with the technique, and is why Ned himself uses and prefers $20 cheapo bargain bin graphite composite rods (from Shakespeare). "No feel" is a pretty self explanatory term. Keep in mind the majority of the retrieves are performed with the lure off bottom where you want your rig to perform and swim along more like a neutrally buoyant jerkbait or a weightless wacky rig than a Carolina rig Many bites you will still feel regardless, but many others will simply be your line moving off or your rod starting to load a bit more than normal (think spider-rigging crappie). "Feel" in the traditional sense is over-rated with this technique, and more a matter of personal preference. Yes, it works, but no better than the traditionalists. -T9

Just my experience, but this is the best all-around solution to the problem ^^ My favorite overall Midwest Finesse rod is a 7' ML built on a popping rod blank. That action also serves the purpose of making reaction times to bites slower since the feel aspect is delayed...which also addresses your second point. That latter point is the reason Ned states the technique is best accomplished using a "no feel" retrieve, and why he can fish with a $20 cheapo graphite rod and catch thousands of bass each year. High end, super duper modulus rods with x-fast actions provide no real benefits to the technique when carried out as espoused by Ned. That aspect really only comes into play when you go outside the realm of traditional MF depths. -T9

A thermocline is nothing more than a breakline, and the best breaklines are usually those that are somehow connected to structure. So don't just "fish the bottom," but instead fish the bottom where the thermocline and structure meet. Either find several areas like this to rotate around on, or just find one good one and wait 'em out. Either way the result is usually better than chasing fish suspended out in the middle of nowhere. -T9

I only weigh a bass if it looks like a legitimate 4lb. plus bass, otherwise, just eyeball it. Will occasionally measure a fish or two out of curiosity as to whether it exceeds legal length limit if it looks close. Large majority go back quickly to where they came from -T9

I use 3# and 5# on most of my spinning outfits, with my heaviest outfit spooled with 8#. The advantages are just like any other line - the smaller the diameter, the better the bait fishes and the better your line control, assuming you simply aren't overpowering the line with a big bait. So for Ned, dropshots, jigworms, inline spinners, weightless trick worms, wacky, shakyhead, and anything crappie, etc., this is all I use. Allows me to fish something as light as a 1/16th oz. bait into 20' of water comfortably and with good feel and control. I can bump up to a 3/32-oz and go to 30.' Almost no (depth) limit to what I can do with a 1/8-oz or heavier. -T9

Yes - not unusual and will vary based on exact specifics of the rod (guide size and spacing) and reel (esp. spool diameter)....fish on

My old Lowe 1648 Modified V jon boat was 15 feet, 10 inches in length (not including engine or trailer tongue) with a 70-inch beam, 48-inch bottom and a transom depth of 15 inches. Trailers usually run a bit wider in most cases than the boat beam because the wheels/wheel wells tend to stick out slightly wider on each side for better stability. -T9

Dan is an old Indy area native who grew up just a couple miles from me. Used to read about him in the local paper all the time. He helped form one of the earliest bass clubs in the area, the Indianapolis Bassmasters. Another really large private collection belongs to a man named Karl White. His personal collection is valued around $4 million and includes some old boats in addition to old lures. Wife and I just got back from a visit to the Branson area where he recently opened up a museum in order to showcase his collection and make it available to the public (for a fee). It's called the "History of Fishing Museum" and you can Google up a lot of info on it easily. Worth visiting if you're ever in the area. -T9

I pretty much stick with 65#, but know a couple guys who've bumped up to 80# for the best performance in certain situations - go ahead and do it -T9

Thanks for saving me all that typing J I was feeling a bit lazy today and not quite into typing up a long response -T9

Best advice I've found for any topwater (or really most ANY bait for that matter) was from Bill Plummer, inventor of the Super Frog: "Retrieve the lure as if it really was what it is supposed to look like."

You find it at the link I posted a few replies up It didn't come up when you searched because you didn't put the entire statement (Ned rig resource) in parens. The search function on this site doesn't like three letter words. -T9

Try this link.... Ned Rig Resource -T9

^^ THIS ^^ The only thing I'd add is to also ask yourself, "What problem are you trying to solve by using braid?" -T9

Generally speaking, anytime you go lighter in line and smaller in diameter, you gain casting distance and better bait presentation. You might not notice it in general usage with typical plugs, but it is very apparent on the margins. -T9

If you just want to try one, I'd start with the Super Spook Jr. Great size that will get bit most everywhere. Another point that hasn't been made yet; if you're new to walking baits, the "knock" of the Spook Jr. will make learning a piece of cake. You have the sound reinforcement beside just the visual coordination - remember the kid learning to fly fish with a metronome in "A River Runs Through It?" You can learn and get good at "walking the dog" with your eyes closed -T9

Rapala touch scale comes with both a hook and a clamp. I just use the clamp all the time. If you don't have the clamp and have to add one, simply add it before you turn the scale on as the scale is self zeroing upon activation and doesn't have a tare function. -T9