Team9nine

If the 8# mono was the Big Game you mentioned, you should be set. That is pretty much the same as many 10# monos, which is what I consider standard around here for most regular sized jerkbaits. I will throw a lot of 8# fluoro though when dealing with totally open water situations, especially if the water is a bit to the clearer side. -T9

Plain old Google Maps does it too, over water or land, straight or winding routes. -T9

Fissure_man for President!! That response will teach people not to ask simple preference questions here on the forums ever again -T9 (anxiously awaiting the results of the science experiment tonight from the 9 y.o.)

And a measurebator says, "How will that difference affect my fishing?" -T9

I think the terminology might be getting in the way of understanding , but you can do a couple easy experiments with the kid to see what we're trying to explain. Here's a simple test you can do with a reel with no line on it. Set the drag at whatever moderate setting you wish. Make sure though when its set you can slip drag by simply applying pressure with one finger to the outermost rim of the spool. Now take your finger and move to the inside edge (where you'd tie your line) of the spool near the axis and try to slip the drag again. Either it will take much more force to rotate the spool or your finger will slip and the spool will not turn. This is similar to the door experiment I mentioned. Another test. Fill that same empty reel full of cheap line. Set the drag using a scale to what you would typically do if going fishing. Now peel off half or more of that line from the spool (for effect), reconnect the scale to the line, and test again. Don't touch the original start drag or setting. You should see that it now takes a little more force to get that drag working at the same setting compared to your original full spool setting. -T9

fishballer06 got it, but yes, it makes a difference in several areas. So yes, if a drag is set at 5lbs for however much line you have on your spool, then you will have 5 pounds of pressure. However, the minute you make a cast and line comes off your spool, you no longer have 5 lbs of pressure. You now have more than that because the effective spool diameter has decreased. It is similar to the amount of force it takes to open/close a door at the middle of the door vs the end of the door. The door hinges and pressure haven't changed, but it's always easier and smoother from the end - more and easier control. As line spool diameter decreases, the amount of drag goes up because you are now pulling off line from closer to the center of the spool (keeping in mind you set the drag with a full spool). The angler who overfills a spool, will have a smaller overall decrease in spool diameter for any given line length out because one revolution of his spool will encompass more line than someone with an underfilled spool.. See fishballer06's calculations for an example. As such, he will have less variation in drag pressure across a range of line lengths, and have better overall drag control. NOTE: After typing all this up, I see fissure_man has beat me to the explanation. Maybe one of our two examples will make sense BINGO - underfilling vs overfilling basically changes the effective gear ratio of the reel, and this will occur over all lengths of casts as Tom points out. -T9

We're "measurebating" now as J Francho likes to put it but the diameter of the line on your spool (effective spool diameter) is related to the pressure exerted by the drag via torque. Spool width also comes into play here (say two identical reels. but one wide spool and one narrow spool version). The more line spooled on your reel, the more consistent the drag pressure will be. Also, you bring into play spool turning speed, though this is probably much less an issue with bass and bass gear - but you never know when you might unintentionally hook a big striper or catfish (LOL). Just how noticeable or important eh -T9

Yes, assuming we are comparing equal casting distances/lure velocities, but most under-spoolers are not going to have near the same casting distance as a correct or over-spooler will, and will suffer if they try to. They will have slightly better control of their spool speed though. Someone above mentioned cutting back spool amount significantly for skipping - short range tactic where controlling spool inertia would help with overall control. Same would apply for those with not quite as much experience with baitcasters who want a little easier time initially. It really depends upon what you are trying to accomplish, I think. Hard to have it both ways, though one might make the case for JDM shallow spools - all the benefits of full spools plus the added benefits of less mass -T9

I'm a classic over-spooler, much preferring the benefits of such. I would consider the pic above to be under-filled, though correct by manufacturers standards. Certainly you can adjust properly, and that is pretty much a requirement, but under-spooling additionally takes advantage of less mass on the spool, therefore less momentum/inertia to have to deal toward the end of the cast. Another option was the old Ryobi/Lew's V-spools which allowed a maximum amount of line at the beginning of the cast while the lure velocity is at its greatest. Then, as lure velocity decreases toward the end of the cast, the “V” design reduced the available line to leave the spool per revolution. This automatic reduction acts similar to a spool speed governor. -T9

I've had no issues with the P-Line 100% fluorocarbon, really like the one spool I've tried, but I'd personally never recommend Fluoroclear to anyone -T9

The eggs to feathers thing has been studied enough to know that the likelihood of this happening is extremely small . That said, there are other means of transport that have been documented that make more sense, such as actual fish being dropped or regurgitated alive by fish eating birds, as well as fish being transported to other waters via typhoon/hurricane type events. Others posting above have touched on the reasons for not allowing live transport of certain species of fish. -T9

^^ THIS ^^ ...End of discussion -T9

jigs BPS Stud Fry buzzbait shallow crankbait Zoom Centipede Pop-R Took a bit to track down the old data sheet. Top 3 accounted for 72% of all keepers. Lure #4 brought the total to 82%, #5 to 89%, and #6 to 92%. -T9

This is one of the few times when a detailed fishing log would be beneficial. If you are familiar with, or have heard of the 80/20 Rule, also referred to as the Pareto Principle. It basically states that about 80% of effects/outputs are usually derived from about 20% worth of causes/inputs. One example of this that would apply here is what I found from my logs for a particular tournament circuit (on a single lake) I fished over several years. I had every catch recorded over that time frame, for more than 75 events, and what I found out was that just 4 lure types accounted for 75% of all the bass I and my partner caught that resulted in a cashed check. Adding the next couple baits (6 total) brought that total up to 90%. It made it pretty easy going forward to stock a small box with just those baits and not feel bad about bringing little else. -T9

Looks pretty generic to me - should be able to easily duplicate if you can track down the skirt... -T9

I agree that something isn't right, but it's hard to diagnose exactly what over the Internet sometimes. I'd second the recommendation to reset the defaults to factory settings, then next time you are out on the water, take a couple pics while running around and post on the site so we can have an idea of just what you are (or are not) seeing. I think that would be very helpful in this situation. -T9

"His gray matter is cluttered with the whereabouts of "bulls" (male bluegills 9 inches or longer), and it’s this knowledge that is so coveted yet hard to come by. Waters that harbor pie-plates (giant ’gills) are rare. Their names are seldom uttered publicly, to anyone, anywhere, especially at bait shops, where the walls have ears." - In-Fisherman, "Cult of the Bluegill" -T9

So many variables, but most frequently 16# straight fluoro for both unless I'm pitching short range (<35'), then 15# or 20# Big Game most times. -T9

You win

Another vote for September here in Indiana. Not that it is horrible or anything, but most waters go through turnover process during the course of September here, and the lack of stability, I believe, makes for a very sporadic, if not unpredictable bite that usually gets better right around the end of the month. Thermoclines are dropping and oxygen concentrations are usually the poorest during this same time period. -T9

Every one I've fished falls off eventually. Would have been better to add a separate wire that ran into the lead head mold, like VMC Mooneyes or similar. Have never had one of them fail. I like them (wire keepers) because I don't like dealing with the glue, but overall glue does hold best, but you lose convenience. I just save the ones where the keeper has come off to use later with glue. -T9

I've tried a bunch of different rods over the years. Presently, my current favorite is the Cabela's TZXC-69M, a 6'9"Jerkbait/Topwater rod, fast action and rated for 1/4-3/8 oz. Lightweight with great balance, great grips and very affordable - a tad to the crisp side, but that has turned out to be a good thing in regards to hook ups. -T9

Agree with your observations, and braid is more similar to fluoro in that regard (cut ft. vs inches). The point I simply wanted to make was that ALL lines are damaged to some degree in the immediate area of the break, and it is wise to trim off some portion of that broke end to regain most of the original line strength you think you have. -T9

Studies show that this happens to all lines to some degree, just not fluoro. If you break off regardless of what line you are using, you need to clip off a portion of the remaining end because it has been damaged to some degree whether you notice it or not. This applies to braids, mono/copolys and fluoro. -T9

Logan S summed it up nicely. If you choose not to use fluorocarbon and instead use braid or mono for whatever reason, that's your choice. Sure mono is more forgiving, but that doesn't mean there is a "problem" with fluorocarbon because many of us use it for a range of techniques, in a range of sizes, and never have issues with it. All lines have their unique properties, their positives and negatives. As an example, look at past posters who have complained about braid wedging in their spools and causing casting issues or lure breakoffs. It would be easy for me to say get rid of that braid and just use straight fluoro or mono and you'll solve your braid "problem" Others might tell you to instead buy a more expensive 8-strand braid that won't dig in as bad. We can play this game with any line type... -T9