Team9nine

If you do a simple Google search for Shimano Reel Maintenance, the first link that shows up (Reel Maintenance Instructions - Shimano) has a variety of great PDF files showing basic step by step instructions with good pictures to cover all basic maintenance, regardless whether you own one of their products or not ? -T9

Good stuff. Seems to run a bit larger in diameter for the same labeled breaking strength, at least the few lower wt. spools I've bought did. More strands in the weave if I'm not mistaken compared to base PP, which makes it rounder and smoother overall. Gore fiber built into the mix which PP doesn't have. Seems to be pretty popular and well liked - no complaints from me, and I'd certainly buy again. -T9

Lol - Humminbird got on my bad side today Guess I'm just taking it out on their apparent $$ greediness since mine was a mapping issue also. Would be much better if they integrated all these separate applications at least to some degree so you didn't have to lay out good change for every little thing they come up with. - Rant over - -T9

lol - Sorry, but I'm not dropping $140 for a program to suggest fishing spots to me ? They already gouge you enough just on basic mapping applications. -T9

You are on the right track with what you've highlighted. Focus more main lake in winter and summer, and more cove/embayments in the spring and fall. The area down toward the dam produces a lot of bass at times. Plan on working what you have marked (which will take a while) so you don't end up marking so much you skip through them too quickly and never really learn each spot. -T9

Huge topic - use the 'search function and find previous threads on the subject. That said, I'd go heavier than ML unless a Shad Rap will be the extent of your trolling. M or MH for larger plugs. Typically you have the rod parallel or slightly tip up for most single rod trolling. 'Where' could be anywhere, but around structure, breaks and breaklines if you want to concentrate your efforts. As for other baits, almost everything can be trolled with a little adaptation. Crankbaits, jerkbaits and spoonplug are the most common items I'd guess. Buy and read Buck's 'Spoonplugging' book as it covers much of what you're asking. -T9

Sounds pretty close to a near 6:1 ratio reel (baitcast) which is pretty universal to a wide variety of techniques. You should be fine. -T9

Mark as many as you need to. Oftentimes it is lake type more than lake size that correlates with higher number of potential spots. On some lakes I have over 250 spots marked. How you break a lake down will vary by individual. There is no one set way. Some like seasonal patterns, others will do it by depth, cover types, sections (size or area), or structure. Sounds like you are starting out right to me. -T9

Paul, No one is "biting" on your trick question ? Seems the obvious answer would be, if he's catching fish, then he's not wasting his time. If he's not catching anything, then I'd say he is wasting time ?

Anxiously awaiting your results to see if I missed my true calling in life... -T9

You can go to that BirthdayFan website and see all the recent December birthdays I'm thinking if you really look in-depth, there's likely a correlation between the Solunar Periods published in Bassmaster and the pros skill level also, like maybe the best pros were born on the best fishing days as determined by the Solunar Tables...maybe even born during THE BEST hours that day! I mean, these tables have to be good for something, right? -T9

Buck was "old school." Keep in mind he didn't pass away until 2005, and fished pretty regularly up until the final few years before his passing. Still, at least on his own boat (or boats he'd rent - very frequent), originally he only used his own needle unit. I've posted a pic below (top), poor quality and all. In his later years, he did have a modern flasher on board, but he only rarely used it, mostly just for checking stuff. Note in the second picture the flasher isn't even mounted - it's just laying on the deck He much preferred to put one of his lures downstairs to learn all he needed to learn that way. He also wasn't a fan of LORAN/GPS. Didn't believe they were accurate enough when compared to line sights. He did use maps to see what he could and mark general areas, but beyond that, he made his own detailed maps (hand drawn) of the exact areas once he fished them thoroughly with his lures. Mapping is another very important aspect of Spoonplugging. Here's a few words from Buck on the subject:

Hard to say for certain what you are talking about specifically without a picture or example to see, but my first thought is what you are referring to isn't actually "structure," at least as defined by Buck - which goes back to an earlier point I made about knowing what structure really is, and isn't. It sounds more like a break or breakline to me. This is also why nomenclature and definitions can start murkying the waters when we all talk from a personal perspective and not from an agreed upon set of definitions. -T9

Apologies - I told myself the minute I saw this thread I wouldn't reply, and I did manage to hold off until it had progressed onto page 2

Some years white, some years black (with minor variations of secondary color). They do occasionally show a preference some years, it seems. -T9

They had a friendly relationship, but not a direct working one. Buck has stated that he made his first depthfinder shortly after World War II, one of the "needle" locators. He even sold his own units through his company for a while. Carl Lowrance began work on the first portable/affordable "flasher" units back in 1956, and had a working model by 1957. Lowrance and Perry didn't officially meet in person until 1960 in Minneapolis. Buck later went to MO where Lowrance was headquarted, and Lowrance to Florida to fish with Buck several times, but they were just friends. Carl built his first units to find fish, especially white bass, crappie and channel cats, and also took regular trips to Canada for lake trout. Buck was actually "opposed" to the concept of "fish finders," as he believed it was the bottom of the lake and the changes thereof that dictated the locations of fish, which is why the "needle units" were all Buck needed, and that wise anglers didn't go out into open water and randomly "look for fish" while ignoring everything else. Buck himself rarely ever used flashers, especially during those early years, but many of his friends and even some of his instructors did. -T9

^^THIS^^ No offense to anyone on the site or elsewhere, but the only interpretation/definition/explanation of these terms and subject that I care about, came from Buck himself and what he wrote. There's an entire book as Catt referenced above, as well as a whole study guide series, and over 100+ articles he wrote for Fishing Facts magazine to get you started that explain and define it all, what structure fishing is and what it ISN'T -T9

Once again I'm in the minority here it appears, but I've never been a fan of F/XF rods for jigs. I prefer to have just a tad more flex down the blank when jig fishing. As WRB stated, there is no real standard in ratings, so you have to just use what feels right to you. Several rods I've liked were actually labeled as 'fast' yet still had that slightly more flex down the blank. -T9

Very few single arm buzzbaits run straight due to the torque/rotation of the blade - a physics issue. They either torque left or right depending upon blade spin direction - perfectly normal and can't usually tune it out. You typically have to go to counter-rotating blades or twin arms to offset this...and yes, Cavitrons are nice buzzers. -T9

Would depend on how the wire arm is attached to the hook eye which all occurs inside the lead head. I personally haven't seen one built from scratch, so can't say for sure. Lead is a soft material, so with enough pressure on both the wire and the hook at the same time, you can eventually wear a hole in the nose where the wire enters. Usually takes dozens and dozens of bass, if not hundreds for this to happen in most cases. Have had it happen to several brands I've used in the past after enough fish. Guessing if you throw on straight braid that might also speed up the wearing process, along with how careful (or careless) you are with your baits and things like snags, unhooking fish, etc. -T9

Built to fish right out of the pkg. crimped large rivet, plastic bait holder on shank for frogs, toads, etc. but comes with skirt included if you want to go that route. Blade is anodized, and comes in two models (large or small blade). Wheeler prefers the larger blade while I like the small blade. Large blade fishes slower and has more bulk, but small blade casts better/further for covering water. Only thing we didn't add from the custom is an old school O'Shaunesy type hook - believe they went needlepoint round bend with larger gap.

They're all fun when you're getting bit ? But if I had to pick one, I'd go with a buzzbait. Put the trolling motor down, cover miles of stained shallow water and cover, and anticipate a bite on every cast - never gets old for me. -T9

Yep ? it was designed around a custom buzzbait several of us tweaked and threw locally. I even had input on the design My favorite "stock" buzzer these days. -T9

Upping the weight will actually make it worse. The only way to completely eliminate it would be to have the bait weigh more than the weight - it's a physics thing. With that short of a leader, if distance isn't a huge issue you could pitch underhand. You'd gain a bit of control for accuracy but still wouldn't solve the helicoptering. Another thing that might help is when you do cast, stop the spool or line with your hand/thumb before it hits the water. With a little practice, this will force the rig to lay out properly right before it splashes down, and helps with tangling. Last, the wider and slower the arc of the lob cast, the less helicoptering you should have. -T9

For most long leader presentations I can think of, accuracy isn't of particular importance - just get the bait to the general area. If you need accuracy for some particular reason then simply shorten your leader. On the cast mechanics, I've always just used a lob type cast. Google some float and fly videos for the extreme end of things, or check out some of the old Bassmaster footage from the 80s and early 90s when Carolina rigs were the deal. -T9