Team9nine

Braid diameter is usually a close measurement, but not exact. Most people use a particular pound test of braid because it mimics the approx diameter of the nylon/fluoro they would typically use, or they go heavier because thicker braid tends to handle better on a baitcaster (less digging, etc.). As for your diameter difference (.004), one could argue a matter of opinion, but why not treat braid like you would other line types and assume the thinner diameter will deliver some presentation benefits (longer casts, less line drag, better lure action, etc.).

THIS ^^ I'd just about guarantee it's the Zeebs. Not much you can do other than suck it up as you suggested. It's generally suggested by many who fish around them frequently that fluoro stands the best chance (use a tough one), but you coukd also try Tom's suggestion of a high abrasion mono, too. Braid usually isn't the way to go.

If I'm reading it correctly, they did test for brightness/intensity and opponency. I believe this sums up their findings in that regard. If you haven't tracked down the study yet, shoot me a PM and I can forward in its entirety.

Haven't studied it a ton, but as I understand it, studies suggest it is a combination of the loss of one of the three cone photopigments (faulty cone, either genetically or due to some type of damage...medical condition, injury, etc.), and/or a breakdown in the visual pathway from the cone to the brain. There are three visual pathway subsystems. The three subsystems allow three kinds of discriminations: light from dark, yellow from blue, and red from green. With cone damage, some studies suggest that no other aspect of vision other than color are actually affected. In the bass study, there is a complete loss/absence of the blue cone leaving only red and green and making them dichromatic (people are trichromatic). How a basses brain interprets that relative to a persons brain with color blindness due to a faulty cone, I can't say.

Excerpted from the paper:

Somewhat surprised no one has jumped on this one yet, but a study published just last month in the journal Current Zoology confirmed some interesting details on bass vision that have been suggested by others over the years. These included the following; Bass have dichromatic color vision, with green sensitive single cones and red sensitive twin cones, along with a rod cell. This has been compared to seeing the world through a yellow filter, which would give the poorest vision (color discrimination) toward the blue/purple end of the spectrum. As far as bass are concerned, chartreuse yellow is indistinguishable from white. Also, the behavioral assays indicated that blue is indistinguishable from black. Red and green were the most easily identified and distinguished colors. They saw little if any difference in outcomes when comparing Florida strain bass to northern strain fish. Obviously, there are no absolutes in terms of making definitive statements on bass vision and what their interpretation in their little brains is. It can be especially difficult when comparing lab analysis to field conditions. One thing you can count on...manufacturers will keep selling and profiting off chartreuse-white and black-blue baits, while bass anglers will keep believing in these color combinations and continue to buy them. However, the accumulating science (going back to 1937) is beginning to suggest perhaps we've all been 'fooled.'

Been fishing under frontal conditions all weekend. Brilliant blue skies, and today, no wind. Like fishing in an aquarium. Still managed around 4 dozen over the three days fishing just an hour or two in the evenings. Had somewhat of an "aha moment" earlier this week that has completely changed my fishing outlook...more to come later in that regard.

Can't answer the question until we agree on what "finesse fishing" is. That won't be easy. Better to regionalize the answer(s) than to blanket statement them in this case, IMO. It's not dead, but it's not as prevalent as some would have you believe. That's my short answer for now

Neither I refuse to throw any crankbait with an EWG hook on it. Have replaced them all on every bait they came on. That said, if you're going to use them, I'd agree with the reasoning above of putting them on the front.

Indiana; Jennifer Schultz; 14-12; 1991, Pop-R. Will never be broken in my lifetime, maybe ever...

Lake is fishing absolutely horrible this year, which is why the only advice I could think of when you asked was, "don't go."

This ^^ Anyone who tells you otherwise, well, we won't go there lol. Some are much better at interpreting situations and lakes better than others, but nobody gets it exactly right all the time.

Channel locks

Old thread, but it doesn't matter what bait you switch to, or is your "go to," because by definition, when the fish "won't bite", they won't bite ALL lures...so I just keep doing what I'm doing until they decide to bite

I like it You have the potential to learn a lot about the baits and yourself by going this route...Are you banking it or boating it? There are some nuances you could add to keep it fun and varied while doing this. Go for it!

On auto sensitivity the unit will probably self adjust, but you usually can't manually run as high of sensitivity settings in muddy or summer waters. Muddy water is nothing more than suspended soil particles, often clay, and in summer, both phytoplankton and zooplankton blooms act similarly. Most good units will pick all this stuff up, forcing you to back off sensitivity somewhat. In summer, you can even watch zooplankton rise in the water column as night sets in, to the point where your unit will often look like it's completely blacked out and you can't read anything. Pretty cool to see

Sometimes it depends on the specific waterbody. Those that are naturally stained and just become more stained or muddy, big and loud seems to work fine. But in some normally very clear waters that suddenly become muddy, big and loud can sometimes be a turnoff, seeming to scare the fish more than attract them. Whatever you choose to fish, slow and steady often wins out in muddy water.

From the bank, absolutely. From a boat, not so much...

From the sounds of it, it might be too heavy. A lot depends on the depth of water, the amount of current, and how rocky or snaggy the bottom is. Usually a 1/16, 1/20 or 1/32 oz head works best for smallies in small rivers. You typically want your bait to drift and swim just above the bottom much of the time. The type and size of plastics will also play into this. Start with what you have, but don't be surprised if you end up having to go lighter.

^^THIS^^ Slide them over the head of a grub (insert grub head on one end and pull skirt down until completely seated) and then rig however, most frequently on some type of jig head. Use a modern Hula grub as a model. Old school

Not for casting. The most forward has the best balance but the least vibration and is for vertical jigging. Lessens line wrapping in hooks. Middle hole is good all around, the one I use for winter casting deep holes with a pump and drop retrieve. Also works on a straight retrieve if fishing a little deeper. Usually if in doubt, start with the middle hole. Back hole is most vibration at slowest speed. Great for murky water, slow retrieves and shallow water. I can run some of my lighter blade baits in just 10-15" of water over flats pretty comfortably with the back hole. The nose hangs down so the bait actually lifts. Can slow lift and drop with this setting, too.

Doesn't come in red, though a craw pattern of some sort would be really cool. Rattles are overrated, and they cast like a bullet in the wind.

I start throwing them in late fall and usually don't put them away until water hits 50 or so in the spring. This year, due to not having my usual tackle with me after a move, I started using them after water warmed up above 50 where I would typically throw lipless or shallow runners over emerging weeds and algae and have been surprised at how well they've worked. I have both 42 and 55 and use them based upon depth fished. I've also had great success in ponds using an even smaller blade bait by Johnson Fishing (30 mm). Silver Buddy is a specific brand of blade bait, and I have a bunch of those, too, but is used by some as a generic term for that style of bait. I prefer not to though.

Why not just a traditional blade bait fished just like a lipless? Thinner than any lipless on the market, and has been my best bait so far this year. Something like the Damiki Vault which comes in some great colors.

Needed a little rain to pump some fresh water into the ponds and put a stain in them. Didn't get as much as I wanted, but got enough to get them biting better. Managed 31 in a couple hours walking banks in 57-59 degree water. Surface temps had jumped about 7-8 degrees, helped by both a warm rain and a few days late in the week that topped the 70 degree mark. Last pic is my standard tackle when banking it: One rod/reel, a small box with a couple extra baits tossed in my pocket and a pair of pliers.