Jump to content

21farms

Members
  • Posts

    1,187
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 21farms

  1. heh-heh. yes, but spinning longer without a load means that they'll spin longer with a load too, right? i agree that spinning a spool with your finger doesn't tell you how it will fish but i'd still rather have a reel where the spool spins more effortlessly than not. to me, it's not any different that doing a mod to my car's engine and then having it dyno tested...let's say the dyno results show my mods added 20 horsepower...that doesn't tell me how the car will drive differently but i'd still rather have 20 extra horses than not.
  2. sure, but they tell you something. i mean, who wouldn't want bearings that spin longer rather than shorter? x2!
  3. 40s are huge but you can definitely use it for bass. i use a 9530 and think it is perfect but i know some people like the bigger spinning reels to help balance the rod, the stronger drag, and the bigger spool which helps some with line memory and twisting.
  4. just a couple of more things to consider: abu rods inexplicably have metal buttcaps...if you stand them up on end on a hard surface, they'll slide out from under themselves and come crashing down . abu rods also have a metal locknut which has a tendency to scratch the heck out of the front of your reel foot...never mount a magnesium-framed reel on an abu rod because that locknut will scrape off the protective layer and expose the magnesium to corrosion. on the other hand, the metal nut holds the reel in place very well and does not need tightening throughout the day like some other rods. on the crucials, be careful about overtightening the rear handle when mounting a reel. mine broke free with not a whole lot of pressure (shimano replaced it with a brand new rod).
  5. congrats! the exsence DC is my favorite reel to fish with...you'll love it.
  6. i have two of the 7' medium/mod-fast veritas casting rods. the first one i bought 3-4 years ago and it quickly became my favorite lipless crankbait rod, even over other rods i had costing 2-3 times more. it was light (4.1 ounces) and handled great and closer to 'fast' than 'moderate fast' i'd say. it could even cast my 07-size rapala shad raps decently. however, last year while fishing it with braid, my line got caught in the trolling motor and pulled my rod into the spinning prop, snapping off 3" of the tip. since i loved that rod so much, i bought another. however, the second one i got felt different from the first, i noticed it immediately...just not as 'crisp'. i plopped it on my scale and it was 0.3 ounces heavier but, more importantly, didn't have the same 'feel'. i will have to check to see if the spline alignments are different. pretty disappointed. personally, i think it might be okay with chatterbaits and 1/4 to 3/8-ounce spinnerbaits but i wouldn't just that rod for t-rigs or jigs.
  7. i think it's more important to hold the ROD in your strong hand since that is what is controlling the fish...turning the handle is just for taking up line. that being said, i use both. i'm right-handed and prefer working moving-type lures with right-handed reels and bottom-contact lures with lefty reels. try 'em both and see which you prefer. now before you get used to one way or the other is the perfect time to choose.
  8. japantackle is just jun and his wife. i've ordered from them several times and jun has been extremely helpful whenever i've emailed him. i think you may be right that your emails may be getting blocked either on your end or his. anyway, i got the yumeya 32mm BFS spool. here's what it looks like on the scorp: i like the yumeya spools over the avails because yumeya is a division of shimano so i know they were made specifically to fit the reel instead of reverse-engineered to fit. also, the yumeya come standard with the brake assembly.
  9. the only time i'd step up to braid heavier than 50# is for punching or tossing big lunker punkers and maybe, maybe for frogs. japantackle is where i got my scorp...i love how the japanese sellers meticulously package their shipments. every reel i've bought from a U.S. seller was just thrown into a box with an air bag or some newspaper. every reel i've bought from japan comes individually wrapped in bubble wrap and secured inside a bigger box suspended from the edges.
  10. i'm with tomustang and am a full braid guy myself...i think it will actually save you money in the long run. here's why. let's say you spool on 75 yards of braid and the remainder is cheap backing. since braid will last for years and years, eventually due to breakoffs, wind knots, etc., your length of braid will get progressively shorter and will get to the point where your cast will be longer than the amount of remaining braid you have...probably about the 45 yard mark...at which point, i'd toss that entire 45 yard piece away and tie on another 75 yard piece of braid. but, with a full spool, you can always add backing as you lose line. by the way, i use a chronarch 50E for pitchin' with 30 to 50 lbs. braid on the california delta where some big girls live...never had a problem and love it. i also have a scorpion 1001XT (JDM version of the curado/chronarch 51E) and put a shallow spool on it (filled with braid) and, man, talk about a pitchin' machine ;-)
  11. that's gotta be the funniest topic title i've read in a long time...well done, webertime even before opening the thread, i already figured it was about cabela's new house-brand reels. i'm not excited about the baitcasters but that verano spinning reel sure looks good.
  12. if you like to tune your reels, get the fuego...so many options and possibilities. i regret ever selling mine.
  13. i killed two birds with one stone. bought my wife an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner under the pretense of "i want your diamond ring to really sparkle". then, when she's not looking, i steal it way, fill it with 100% simple green and, voila! wife is happy, i'm happy.
  14. my top two things i wish i knew then that i know now: 1) buy quality first. the single most important thing to look for is a solid, one-piece metal frame...those will last longer and feel smoother and smoother longer. 2) don't overlube. in fact, even on new reels, remove the bearings and see if they spin freely on the tip of a pencil. if they don't, flush them of grease and lube with just one drop of a quality reel oil. you didn't ask but if this question were about spinning, i'd wished i knew the advantages of braided lines on spinning reels.
  15. i have yumeya shallow spools on my scorpion 1001XT and my 13metaniumXG. let me tell ya, the shallow spools transform the reels, allowing me to cast light lures and pitch regular lures with new-found ease. the reason i chose the yumeya spools over avails is because the yumeyas come with brakes whereas you have to either pull the brakes off of your old spool and put them on the new spool or buy the brake assembly separately. besides, yumeya is in-house with shimano so i know they're not reverse-engineered to fit. now, all that being said, you shouldn't need a finesse spool to cast weightless plastics like 5" dingers or 4" super flukes...those should cast fine with the scorpion 1500/1501 stock. as others have mentioned, you're probably much better off putting your money toward a longer, medium to medium-heavy powered rod with a fast action.
  16. spinnerbaits are a reaction bait and line visibility isn't too much of a concern. KVD uses straight 15-20# fluorocarbon. i use 50# braid with a 20# FC leader (braid is too limp and has a tendency to foul the blades so that is why i use a short length of FC for leader).
  17. deeper, wider spools hold more line. fishing line is relatively heavy, adding weight to the spool. more spool weight equals more inertia (resistance to startup) BUT also equals greater momentum once in motion. more spool momentum means it will continue peeling out line longer, equaling greater distance. so, when casting big, heavy lures like deep-diving crankbaits, you'll get more distance on the cast. also, wider spools typically allow the levelwind to lay your line down at broader angles than with narrow spools. the wider crosswraps resist line digging better.
  18. my champion 734C with the full handle was 4.94 ounces. the reported weight of the split-handle version is 4.72 ounces. the savvy version of the 734C with the split handle is reported at 5.2 ounces.
  19. ben, that looks incredible...thanks for the pics and the additional narrative. i bet your heart was beating pretty fast while drilling those holes, eh? the only question now is, where are you gonna find black fishing line to go on it? as for your next reel, how about a stormtrooper (white with black) theme to go along with darth vader. as you do whatever mods you choose, it'd be great if you could photodocument it along the way and post those pics [hint] tight lines.
  20. awesome! can post more pics and list everything you did to it? maybe under a new thread. man, i'd love to see more of that.
  21. i just looked at the schematic for the chronarch 50mg on the shimano website's parts ordering page...it shows the handle assembly as one-piece. if you remove your current knobs, you'll be able to tell if you can install ball bearings or not...just look for plastic bushings inside the knobs and order the same size bearings. however, if it were me, i'd just replace the entire handle assembly with a longer 84mm handle with the larger, power septon knobs off of the chronarch 200E.
  22. actually, back in the day, lew's came out with the first ergonomic casting reel (i won't say low profile because, by today's standards, it's not). lew childre actually contracted with shimano to manufacture the reels for him, which is how shimano gained a foothold in the reel market. but, the company pretty much died along with lew childre when he was killed in a plane crash. the lews name was revived by a family friend who bought the rights with a pledge to continue the lew's tradition of innovation and quality but it's not really the same company. i will say, however, that the "new" lew's is trying very hard and the new BB1 really does pay homage to the original with some excellent modernizing.
  23. only the BB1 and the BB1L don't have instant anti-reverse; the rest do, including a 5:1 model called the BB1Z. as for the advantage, it is mainly sensitivity. since most crankbait fishing involves constantly turning the handle, when a fish strikes, the handle actually moves a little bit backward and you will feel that more through your fingers on the handle knob than just through the reel in your hand (if you palm your reel) or a tug on the rod (if you hold the rod via the trigger). the other advantage is that it allows fish to "eat your bait better" before you set the hook and possibly miss because you swung too soon.
  24. oe, i have the chronarch 50E and the regular tatula. for "smallmouth fishing in mostly clear lakes throwing baits that are primarily on the smaller size" at "some distance away from the boat" and using "20lb. braid or less", i'd choose the chronarch every time. the 50E handles smaller diameter lines great, palms better in your hand, and is lighter. you'll also have a variety of ways to upgrade the reel for even better performance. i put in a lightweight yumeya shallow spool on mine which transforms it into a finesse fishing machine while also being an incredible pitchin' reel. regarding your stated desire for something reliable, the shimano is well-known for that...the tatula's T-wing? well, that's a pretty major moving part there and it only came out so it has not been time-tested yet.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.