21farms

for overhead casting, it'd make no difference. but for pitching, a shorter rod allows the fisherman to start the arc of his pitch further back without the rod tip dipping into the water. also, i don't want to be slapping the water constantly when doing tip-down techniques like walking-the-dog, popping, or working a jerkbait.

perfect for close quarters pitching, especially if you're 5'8" or shorter

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i was a big seaguar guy...i've used invisx, abrazx and red label. seaguar was great with communication when i emailed them with questions about their line. however, my last spool of 10# abrazx was bad...it kept snapping me off repeatedly, even with freshly-spooled line and freshly lubricated and carefully tied knots. when i emailed them then, i was totally stonewalled. that opened the door for me to try sunline and i haven't looked back since. i like sniper FC so much better...softer, more supple, doesn't kink as easily and have yet to have a problem with the line...i have it in every test from 7 to 20...great line.

the trilene knot has been my primary knot for 35 years...love it. i do 6 wraps. as for the palomar, my problem with it is the amount of wasted line required to tie it.

the new saharas and symetres have the M compact bodies and they're pretty small. in fact, some people complain about the rotors hitting their knuckles because the stem is shorter as well. i personally will never buy another 1000-size spinning reel to be used with mono...the spool diameter is just too small and causes tight coils of line memory. i had the 2500-size symetre FL which is the lowest i go simply because i dislike cast handles like the one on the sahara.

the lew's replacement handles come with a right-handed handle nut. if you already have a lefty handle nut, you don't need anything else and the carbon fiber handle will fit your reel.

i agree with the others about the ned rig...almost impossible to fish wrong and she'll catch lots of fish. on my boat, i also rig beginners with a dropshot rig. i show them how to gently shake the worm while keeping the weight on the bottom, wait, move it a few feet and repeat. i tell them if anything feels different at all, start reeling. works like a charm.

the daiwa accessory power handles are 100mm and fit revos. they're $50 and available at TW in both gunmetal and blue

i normally use 15# white power pro connected to a 4-to-5 foot length of 7# sunline sniper FC with an alberto knot. i like #1 gamakatsu dropshot/splitshot hooks tied with a snell knot and about a 12-inch dropper line. if you're casting your dropshot rig a long ways, you generally need a longer dropper than if you're fishing straight under the boat because the steeper angle of the line back to you puts the bait closer to the bottom.

i had a quantum catalyst PT from that same era (very similar to the two reels you're looking at)...i only used it for one outing before returning it. performance was fine but the way the ACS dial on the palm side plate sticks out and into my palm drove me completely bonkers...very uncomfortable for me. also, the line guide quantum uses has to be THE tiniest of any casting reel out there...i was concerned about my braid-to-fluoro connection knot being able to pass through cleanly.

AFAIK, shimano's super ship and X-ship are not the same thing. super ship used fattened-up, wide gears for increased contact area between the main and pinion gears and shifted the supporting bearing closer to the gear teeth. X-ship, OTOH, incorporates an additional bearing so that both ends of the pinion gear are supported. new2BC4bass, the scorpion 1000 that you have is based on the same platform as the USDM curado 100D but with a 4-step externally-adjustable centrifugal braking system. it was right before the trend of slinging the gearbox below the reel foot became de rigueur. the scorpion 1000XT shares the same platform as the 50-size E-series reels like the curado and chronarchs.

i don't think it's currently physically possible for a rod that is 7'5" long and weighs less than 4 ounces to NOT be a little tip heavy UNLESS the handle portion was like 20 inches long

the single-most important thing about tying the alberto is to make sure the tag end of the line goes through the loop at the beginning of the knot in the same direction...if not, it will slip and fail almost every time.

i use braid with a fluoro leader almost exclusively tied with an alberto knot almost exclusively. fluorocarbon is extremely sensitive to any kinks in the line so avoid those at all costs; if i get any, i immediately cut off the fluoro right there and retie as it will break there. also, make sure to lubricate your line with some saliva before tightening your knot or you will "burn" your fluoro there and create another weak spot. fluoro can be a pain in the you-know-what but the advantages it offers make it well worth it for me...just make sure you use a good-quality fluoro (e.g., sunline sniper FC).

that makes three of us! the solid tip is actually very interesting to use for dropshotting. you can literally see the tip dancing when you get a bite before feeling anything. by the way, i really do like tatula rods...daiwa did an excellent job with these.

yes, the TAT6101MXB has a solid graphite tip, just like the TAT6111MLXS spinning dropshot rod. it is extremely thin and flexible...and fragile. the tip on my TAT6111MLXS splintered on a hard cast...i sent it back to daiwa and asked them to replace it with another rod with a standard tip but they sent me a new one of the same rod. IMHO, it's fine for vertical dropshotting but that's about it. even so, there are better dropshot rods. i traded mine in during THUT's NRX trade-up promotion.

yes, super easy if you're comfortable opening up a casting reel...just swap out the main gear and the pinion gear. it will be a good opportunity to examine your drag washer for wear too. now, before you do it, you should be aware that the curado/chronarch gears are brass while the core gears are aluminum...you'll save weight with the aluminum gears but they won't be as smooth feeling.

get them directly from shimano at https://fishshop.shimano.com. the parts you want are from the core 50MG7: the main drive gear is BNT4046 and costs $12.84 and the pinion gear is BNT4050 and costs $8.56. that's it. there are two optional parts: the key washer (BNT3941 for $4.94) and a larger drag washer but i never changed those myself. shipping used to be $3.00 for your entire order but i've heard it is closer to $6 now. (for the curado/chronarch 51E, get the equivalent left-handed parts from the core 51MG7)

hey darrenM, you should drop a set of core 50 gears into your chronarch 50e to get the 7:1 gear ratio you want...i did it on my chronarch 50e and my scorpion 1001XT...it was easy.

crankenstien, as far as i know, the tatulas are magnetic-braked only. to the OP, i'm assuming you're coming from using all spinning gear? if so, you should be aware that line retrieve rates are much higher than they are with baitcasting gear. for example, my 2500-size 6:1 gear ratio spinning reels pull in 35 to 36 Inches of line Per Turn (LPT) of the handle whereas many 6:1 baitcasters only pull in 24 to 26 IPT. even 7:1 gear ratio baitcasters only pull 28 to 31 IPT. so, if you're used to turning the handle at a certain speed, take into account the differences between the two.

oh man, where do i start? 1) watching the host of a fishing show hold a fish out of water for a loooong time while explaining the bait and technique used to catch it...it's almost as if he feels he has no credibility unless he's holding a fish in his hand to prove that he knows how to fish. geez, if you're gonna release the fish, then just release it and then explain the technique, etc. 2) when anglers make a big show out of releasing a fish...they kiss it, touch it all over saying what a beautiful fish it is, then hold it by it's belly as they lower it into the water, caress the fish as it swims out of his hands (all the while stripping the fish of the slime coat that protects it from infections, harmful bacteria and parasites).

not sure if you're being facetious? it's been daiwa and shimano and then everyone else for awhile now.

such a test assumes that it's all about sensitivity. on the water though, there's so much more to taken into consideration...there's also: handling (weight, balance, handle length, loading), castability, ergonomics, durability, component quality, warranty, and aesthetics. i look at the complete package. after spending just a little bit of time with a rod, i know whether i like it or not and it often has little to do strictly with sensitivity. maybe it's just me but i don't think it's that hard for any company to produce a rod that's sensitive. however, it's very difficult to produce a sensitive rod that is also light, has the ideal taper and loading characteristics, and is durable and handles and casts well, all in an attractive package with a competitive price tag and warranty.

braid for wood and grass, fluorocarbon for rocks and open water