21farms

i think i know exactly what you're experiencing. the key to what you say is that it doesn't birdsnest and that it happens near the boat. my guess is that you have a fairly fast casting motion. what's happening is, at the beginning of your cast, your spool is turning faster than the line is paying out. you can verify this by watching your reel as you cast normally...you will see the line forming multiple loops that sometimes work themselves out but sometimes catch onto themselves. after the lure hits the water, continue pulling out some line by hand and i bet it comes out smoothly but sometimes the spool moves backwards over a loop. if it were line-digging causing your problem, the line wouldn't pay out smoothly and you'd be able to see it rubbing against small ruts in your line. i experience this problem occasionally on some of my magnetic reels too. my recommendation is to modify your casting motion so that your backswing is not so violent. smoothness is the key with mag reels.

i've fished with numerous lamiglas rods but not the XC704 specifically. generally, i like the certified pro rods. they all seem to have slower tip than other manufacturers (which i like) but fish lighter than their rating (similar to g.loomis rods). they're kinda heavy by today's standards but sensitivity is not a problem. warranty-wise, they answer emails very fast. however, they do NOT have an over-the-counter exchange program...all rods must be sent back to them and they will make a determination on your claim only after inspecting your rod.

perfect for paddletail swimbaits like basstrix, big hammers, money minnows, etc. i also like them for lighter spinnerbaits (1/4 to 1/2 oz.).

first of all, MANY lines break at higher than rated. if you normally use 6#, stick with 6# yo-zuri hybrid. the diff between regular and ultra soft is regular has more fluorocarbon in its mixture while ultra soft has more nylon. therefore, regular doesn't float or stretch as much but is stiffer.

i find that balance on a spinning setup is rarely a problem since the hand holding the rod is right over the pivot point (the reel). i've heard a few pros recommend the 4000-size reels too because it really does help with line twist...i tried it and it was just too big and bulky for me.

yeah, same here with the gear ratio. i find it interesting that it has a swept drag star but a straight handle :-?

the color of the line you choose should depend on the color of the water you fish. smoke is just a better match for me but clear or green might be better for you. as for the second part of your question, i can't really figure out what that reviewer is trying to say. the only thing i can think of is perhaps he is used to fishing with an ultra-low speed reel with more torque? otherwise, he may be confusing the role of the rod versus the reel.

bdubb, don't be turned off...i think there's just a little bit of shimano fatigue on this board. because of shimano's popularity, it is rather polarizing...people seem to either really love them or really love to hate them. as for the 6:1 gear ratio, it is as you said a good all-around ratio...you can do anything you want by varying your retrieve. that being said, i personally use 5:1s for cranking and swimbaits, 6:1s for spinnerbaits, and 7:1s for plastics, topwater, jerkbaits, jigs. the different ratios just make my fishing a lot easier. for perspective, 20 years ago, 6:1 would have been considered absolutely blistering.

the transition from the bail to the bail arm is smooth so there is less line snagging when you flip the bail against tension. i'm not sure exactly why either but i get less line twist with daiwas with this feature than other reels. finally, it feels really good.

start out with the factory settings (3 brakes on/3 off) and you should be fine. as for the latest citica, the current citica is the E, the previous was the D. it should be pretty obvious which one you have (unlike the revos...it's hard to tell which one you have with those...they went from stainless steel bearings to HPCR bearings and then from aluminum frame to x-craftic frame, all without changing the nomenclature on the box :). the *** site is wrong...the gear ratio is 6.3:1.

that's 15# yo-zuri hybrid in smoke color which i really like for spinnerbaits. i normally prefer fluorocarbon but haven't found that it doesn't make much difference when it comes to spinnerbaits, and the difference in price is significant.

yes, yes they do. how they match colorwise is a happy coincidence for me as i was focusing on what worked best for the way i like to fish. i didn't think too much of it until two different guys i fish with commented on how purty it was

$40 for a tierra is a steal. i have an advantagewhich is the same frame size as the tierraand they are definitely on the wide side.

i have lots of reels to choose from for my loomis SBR-813C and the fuego is my choice. i think the IPT is perfect for the way i fish spinnerbaits (burning them just under the surface)...not too fast and not too slow. tosses 3/8 oz. to 3/4 oz. spinnerbaits just fine. very smooth and the magforce braking system on the fuego is effective and reliable. the combo feels great together.

one more thing. at the $70-$80 price point you're looking at, you should consider the bass pro shops-exclusive daiwa TD-PRO. it is on sale right now for $79.94 (christmas 2009 catalog, page 88). the TD-PRO has daiwa's air bail which, until you fish it against a normal wire bail, you never realize how nice of a feature it is. but, here's the gotcha. you have to call in your order and specifically request the sale price in order to get it even though it is on sale (it is $99.99 on the BPS website and $119.99 in the printed catalog). BPS is so lame this way > i hate BPS...i have ranted many times in the past of their less-than-ethical business practices but that is another story...

rooster, i have the daiwa-made cabelas tournament ZX as well as daiwa tierras and fuegos. in terms of fit and finish and practical fishability, i cannot tell the tournament ZX from a straight daiwa. in other words, excellent. i would almost argue that house-brand reels can pack more features at a given price point since the OEM manufacturer doesn't have to carry marketing costs for those products and the warranty is covered by the big box retailer, not daiwa.

there are 10 casting rods in the vendetta lineup and all BPS carries them all. yes, you should keep the rod...it will do everything you listed fairly well except for cranks. also, keep in mind that there is no ratings standard...one manufacturer's MH/XF can be another's M/F.

the best way of all is to not let the line ever get past the line guide. i recommend these line retainers from bass pro shops:

matt, i have a one of the new quantums and they are BY FAR the hardest to thread line through the line guide; the line guide hole is small, the distance between the line guide and the accessible top of the reel is far and the top of the frame is low and wide...i have trouble and i have good vision. if some of the other suggestions don't work out for you, consider changing reels. the new curado/citicas are very easy to thread because the top part of the reel is very open. the daiwa fuego and zillion are also easy to thread because the line eye very tall.

primus, i doubt very much that the rod's power rating will have any effect on the crankbait's wiggle. in fact, if it did, i'd argue just the opposite: that a softer rod would absorb more of the wiggle. when i was first shopping for a loomis crankbait rod, i posted a WTB for the 843. two people PM'd me and told me the 843 was lighter than i thought and that the 845 was the better choice. i ended getting the 845 and after having fished it for several months now and, especially comparing it to my other crankbait rods, i have to totally agree.

i have found the loomis ratings to be optimistic. i would take whatever they say and go one power up. for example, here's the description from *** for the CBR843C: CBR843C, Line Weight: 8-14 lbs. Moderate/Fast Action. The perfect rod for medium sized cranks, even deep divers like the Fat Free Shad, and the 843 will throw the 1/2oz rattle trap a mile. Also effective for buzzbaits. if this sounds like what you're looking for, go for the 845. now, here's the description for the 845: CBR845C, Line Weight: 10-20 lbs. Moderate/Fast Action. Our best selling Loomis Cranking Rod, the 845 is what you need for larger deep diving cranks with the power to move them away from deep, line cutting cover. Great for medium to large cranks. if this sounds like what you want, then go for the 847. i know this doesn't make sense but loomis is funny that way. i have found the same to be true for many of the different loomis rods. IMHO, the 845 is far more versatile and the better choice.

other differences are: graphite sideplates (which i actually don't mind as they are much more rash-resistant), single-disk drag (another thing i don't mind; i like the simplicity and consistent smoothness of single-disk drags), and a new 6-pin centrifugal braking system (three of which are spring-loaded).

no worries like i said, the 4.2 oz. reading i got was with the tags on it still and i realized i also had a little fuji EZ keeper II hook keeper installed...i only guessed that it would weigh 4.1 oz. without the tags. without tags and the hook keeper, it could very well be 4.0 oz.

my zillion 7' M XF just arrived. it weighs 4.2 ounces WITH TAGS. i want to savor the "new rod feeling" for awhile longer so i'm not gonna cut the tags off just yet ;D my guess is that, without the tags, it would weigh 4.1 ounces. that, my friends, is light!

not necessarily. the 200DPV was 5:1 but the 100DSV and 200D are 6.2:1. to the OP, 6'6" to 7'0" MH with a F action is fine for spinnerbaits. are you fishing tip up or tip down?