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A-Jay

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Everything posted by A-Jay

  1. Hasn't been much of a 'winter' up this way so far. Warm air temps and nothing close to measurable snow. But living in 'the snow belt' our average first snow is usually somewhere around mid-October. Forecast is straighten out though . . . . Here we go . . . A-Jay
  2. The Duo Realis G-Fix Vibration Tungsten Lipless Crankbait has shown up in the productive baits thread for several years running. At 3/4 oz it's very thin (compact) casts like a ROCKET, gets deep fast and stays there. Comes in several wildly effective colors and patterns. Don't buy any. 😎 A-Jay
  3. To start, I fish the 3/8 oz. and the ½ oz. almost exclusively. Reserving the few 3/4 oz. baits for casting into a heavy wind. These baits are so versatile and yet unique, they can be fished on just about any thing you’d like to throw it on. Is one type “Better” than another? Who Knows? I use what I like and what I have confidence it – that goes for all my fishing and I’d encourage that mind set to anyone & everyone who is willing to listen. What one angler uses and even has success with, may not be right for another. So use what you like. Here's what I like – I totally prefer moderate action rods for single hook moving baits. (And many treble hook baits for that matter). And well before I settled on the ones mentioned below, I was like many anglers in that I was totally unsure what to use or what I would prefer. So after ‘reading’ and watching too many videos, I just went ahead and purchased and then fished a graphite (St Croix), 100 % Glass (Lamiglas) & a Composite stick (Quantum). Needed to be able to compare them- side by side. Only way I could expect to answer the question. As for the gear (rods Specifically) the way I fish a vibrating jig or chatterbait usually determines what blank material I favor. Glass rods are just a no - go for me in any chatterbait application. They work, but there are so many trade off, it's not worth it for me. When I fish the bait early/late season, low & slow - very much like a jig, I use a graphite jig rod. - 7'1" MH/F The bites are coming when the bait is barely crawling along the bottom or even stopped completely. Very much like a jig, so for me the graphite's superior sensitivity wins this one. After that it's composite all the way, all day everyday. When I'm fishing a chatterbait in a more traditional horizontal moving fashion, Composite stick excel in every category for me. Long casting, effective hook setting and fish landing properties. I use 15 lb FC line on every chatterbait application where I am hunting plus size brown bass here. Final note, IMO, ripping a bait out of grass, which we all know gets bites, is a different deal depending on the blank material. (and line type) IME, and because I fish in clear water and can easily see my bait, snapping a bait up & out of soft cover with graphite, although easier I suppose, launches the bait forward a much greater distance than with a Composite stick. How much depends on a few things but it can be a significant difference and one that might change the number of bites I get in a day. A bait caught in the grass with a fish looking right at it, suddenly moves or jumps out and starts to 'get away'. Now if the bait moves say a foot or 18 inches, the bass can often make up that ground in a flash. Boom - fish on. But if the bait rockets forward 4 or 5 feet, the bass might not even see it or realize it's moved. It's just gone; vanished. And by then I've resumed my retrieve and the fish is left 10 feet back wondering what the heck just happened. Something to think about and perhaps try out for yourself. You might be surprised at the difference. A-Jay
  4. Nope ~ I'm sticking with Prevent and Impossible on this one. A-Jay
  5. Look at the diagrams on the package. Prevents knot slide which might damage the connection knot . A-Jay
  6. LOL ~ Don't tell anyone. Quik-Mart is my go to. btw- the pictured baits are 'just for display' I'm not actually allowed to reveal my entire collection as it has been deemed 'too dangerous', by the bait monkey. A-Jay
  7. I can totally see the convenience of a snap. However what I'm not a fan of, is that the few times I have used clips, it's almost like the clip itself prevents me from re-tying the connection knot. So I end up fishing that connection knot, cast after cast, fish after fish; meaning WAY longer than I normally would. When I HAVE to re-tie to change lures or after a few plus size fish. I have had clips open up on me but I will admit it's a super rare occurrence. Happens with the same frequency as having a treble hook split ring stretch out or even fail. SO I don't consider clip failure as a problem, but old, worn and or frayed connection knots lose fish, especially big fish with FC line or leader. So, I am all about re-tying to that oval split ring whenever I feel the urge. Yup, I might have a problem. 🤓 A-May
  8. I fish a jerkbait now and then, even some Vision 110's. For the line tie ~ I do not do clips or ROUND split rings, on anything. I will forever be an OVAL split ring guy. A-Jay
  9. Workout Day 5 today. I was motivated by the Spartan #borninfiftynine A-Jay
  10. Hello Michael and Welcome to Bass Resource ~ Hope you can be feeling better soon. A-Jay
  11. Not since 1934 I think. I'm not really a fan of the team but I do have MAD RESPECT for that fan base. A-Jay
  12. Not me. Unless it's the Pats, I love it when the road team wins. Of course the networks probably prefer it the other way. A dead quite crowd after the first half is probably not a ratings booster. Btw, The Detroit Lions are looking good again. A-Jay
  13. Nice rods for sure. But there's a decent chance your previous purchases paid for at least one replacement 10 times over. A-Jay
  14. I rarely even acknowledge the warranty until I've already purchased the rod. Sad part is we are all paying for a warranty when we buy the rod. Whether we use it or not. If I snap a stick (and I've blown up a few) I don't expect the company to pay for my mistake or inappropriate use of the rod. That's on me. I'd love it if there were no warranties and gear prices came down 50%. There's always a few bad blanks around and they blow up first use most of the time. So 30 days of coverage is fine for that. But a 10 - 15 year warranty is meaningless to me. There ya go. A-Jay
  15. 1/8 oz jig head and fish it slow, but keep it moving & out of the muck. A-Jay
  16. For DS MF ~Light braid to FC leader. For Ned - 7'6" ML ~ Light braid to FC leader. Here's some Ned action. https://youtu.be/KuPRtdajOLU?feature=shared&t=116 A-Jay
  17. The paddle tail or boot tail swimbait can be a very effective deal for just about any kind of bass and in a super wide variety of applications. Not news. At this point its common knowledge that sliding one on a jig head can and does get bites pretty much anywhere in the country. Whether it be a solid or hollow belly bait, small, medium or even the larger versions, these baits seem to have some serious strike drawing power at times. I’ll start off with ‘The when’; and this may be the easiest aspect of this one. Seasonally, as soon as there is open water here and straight through to hard water, I almost always have a swimbait on a jig head rigged up & ready to throw. This is the deal I’ll be discussing here and I’ll get to the where and how in a bit. But yea, when the local brown bass population is on the feed, they almost always seem fairly eager to choke one of these things. Now let me get into some of my more common ‘where’ scenarios. Right off the bat, the versatility of these things does lend them to be effective in a wide vary of ‘wheres’. So it can literally be one of those 3 feet to 30 feet deals. However for me, up in this clear water, regardless of season, time of day or body of water, a swimbait on a jighead is an effective way to cover water and it’s usually ‘deeper’ stuff. I’ll quantify that by saying I’m throwing them up on to or off of mid lake humps, up & off points, as well as drop-offs and into saddle areas. Usually targeting bass in 10-20 feet. Bottom composition and cover can vary but in super heavy soft cover (weeds) I am not probing them with this bait. I might swim one over and around it, but IME, they don’t fish very effectively through the slop. Great way to cover a big mid-lake flat though. Slow rolling one over the weeds can help find biters (and a bunch of Pike, unfortunately). On a hard bottom, I like the lift & fall technique, on both a tight & slack line, as well as the cranking it along slow and letting it deflect; trigger deal. On a sand bottom I am all about grinding the bait. Reeling it along in such a manner, and at whatever speed I need, to maintain constant contact with the bottom. This is one of my more productive approaches that also gets me a ton of by-catch; walleye mostly. A Football head is a solid choice. Now for the gear, and it’s really nothing special. I use spinning & casting gear, pretty much interchangeably. Almost always using 7 ft Medium action in both blanks. Spinning gear is done with 10-15 lb braid and an 8 – 10 lb FC leader. And the casting gear is straight 10-12 lb FC. I will say that the spinning gear is usually selected when I’m looking to keep the baits deeper, say below 10 – 15 feet and the casting gear often gets the nod in anything shallower. Incidentally, this is the same tackle I fish a tube with. The Jig heads & Baits ~ There is a plethora of good quality swim baits and matching jig heads to choose from now. On line vendors literally list what seems like hundreds. I’ve fished a dozen or so types & brands. To keep it simple, I’ve pretty much settled on two; listed below. I do prefer softer baits in the 3 to 5 inch size range, with something close to 4 inch being a big player. While clearly less durable, I seem to get more bites. Along with that, having the right action, especially on the fall, is a must for me. When it comes to jighead shape, design and the all-important hook, again I like to keep it simple but here I am fairly particular. Brand Name is my desired direction but will go with a Lesser-known deal when there’s merit. I am eternally looking for jigheads with a quality medium and medium light wire hook that is also The Right Length. Too stout here can be tricky to sink on the medium gear I use; especially on a long cast or very deep running bait. Additionally, too long of a hook seems to ‘mute’ and can even over power a bait. I seem to get the best action when the bend is coming out the top of the bait no more than half way back of the baits overall length. More than that is No Bueno. My favorite heads match up to baits when they only go in about a third of the way (if that makes sense). Colors I keep close to the bait color and my default is just a plain lead, black or tungsten. Head shape & design includes where the line tie placement is located on the head itself. The right local will allow the bait to swim nicely, especially along the bottom and on the glide without forcing the bait to pick up unwanted & bite killing debris. A decent keeper helps; a couple of different ones work for me. In a pinch (meaning I ran out of a certain weight size) I’ve even used my tube jigheads with decent success. Jighead weights range from 1/8 oz for the smallest and shallowest presentations up to ½ oz for the other end of the spectrum I’d say I use ¼ oz and 3/8 oz the most though. Before I wrap this one up, I have two final thoughts. First, a bait type that has been deliberately omitted here, are the ‘pre-rigged’ deals. Not because they don’t get bites or that I don’t use them, because they can be killer at times and I do throw them. Storm Wild Eye Shad and the Megabass Dark Sleeper are two of my favorites. The Dark Sleeper sees local action and the Storm bait is an international Rock Star performer for me. While I fish them in much the same way, I didn’t include them here because comparatively, I only recently started using them. For me they seem like a separate deal, one that I may cover in a future Brown Bass Tools installment; especially that Dark Sleeper. And second, and I sort of hate to add this but it is relevant. Virtually every bait I have covered in this thread, has accounted for at least a handful, if not more, 5 lb plus Brown Bass; except this one. There are few things I enjoy more than adding a too close to the lens pic of a brown fatty to the end of one of these write ups. But alas, I cannot do that, because despite my best efforts, it hasn’t happened. Instead, what I will say and where I find myself throwing these swim baits the most, is to cover water & find biters. Done it a ton of times; plenty of 3’s & 4’s. Can be especially helpful on new water. This style of swimbait is as close to a ‘confidence bait’ for me as I have. Pretty sure this approach has indirectly led to a few tanks, by showing me areas that the bass are using. Strike King Rage Swimmer ~ Keitech Swing Impact FAT Owner Ultrahead Football Jig Head ~ Owner Ultrahead Round Jig Head Gamakatsu Round Jig Head ~ Dirty Jigs Tactical Bassin' Finesse Swimbait Jig Head Fish Hard A-Jay
  18. Nice Tanker of a Bass ! Bet it was on a Shpinnah-Bait ! Congrats A-Jay
  19. What did you say your address was again ? j/k A-Jay
  20. techniques that you have moved away from Glide baits. Large Huddleston type Swimbaits. Super Deep Diving Crankbaits. Finally, I had to stop using TriNitroToluene. Too many legal issues. 😎 A-Jay
  21. Started out Workout Day 4 with the Cable Sissy Squat. Always gets my attention. Prior to adding this movement to my training, I had been having some minor but nagging Knee pain. At this point, it has completely resolved. I am a Big Fan of that ! #borninfiftynine A-Jay
  22. Pre-Frontal bassing has some risk. During a career on the water, it was part of my job description, but not anymore. Mostly. A-Jay
  23. Wasn't sure, but apparently A few mushrooms can still be found on Maine's forest floor. Might be a long winter. A-Jay
  24. If two of my most productive patterns, GG Perch OB and M Western Clown could be crossed ~ M ENDMAX might be the result. A-Jay
  25. A-Jay

    M ENDMAX ~

    From the album: A-Jay's Stuff

    If GG Perch OB were Crossed with M Western Clown ~ M ENDMAX might be the result
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