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help! i was going to check the impellor and i couldn't figure out how to get it completely seperated. it seemed like either the drive shaft or shift linkage was holding it together. i was reading various sites and some suggestions were check inside the trim tab, take out the 2 water inlets, put it in forward. none of these helped. i removed the starter and could see the shift linkage where it goes down to the gear case but i couldn't figure out how to detach it anywhere. i noticed if i put it in reverse i could get about an inch between the lower and mid section so i was able to at least look at the impellor. (everything was fine). so im' going to order a service manual since my local library didn't have one to look at. in the meantime, can anyone tell me how in the world to get this thing apart in the event i need to go back into it? oh ya, it's a 2001 thanks steve

Cool thanks for the help! i've done some 2 stroke work before. small things though, like lawmowers, weed eaters, RC cars. I've been so busy lately with work at everything else I haven't had time to work on it yet. i'm hoping that i can work on it this weekend. Thanks again, I'll PM you if I run into a problem. steve

Mayassa, what motor did/do you have?

cool deal. thanks for the suggestions. It does have a fuel filter on it, the strainer isn't clogged and there aren't any air pockets visible when i pump the bulb. tomorrow i'm hoping to replace the bulb/fuel line. I'm also going to replace the plugs while in there. i haven't seen a bleeder valve but i'll double check. i'll see what happens soon! thanks steve

The other day i was out and went WOT once for about 20 seconds. a few seconds after that the boat started stalling any time i gave it anything more than idle. even at idle it wasn't all there but i could limp back to the dock. it doesn't vibrate real bad or anything or feel like misfire and i don't hear any odd or 'bad' noise. if I don't put it in gear and just give it gas, it'll rev up ( i didn't go higher than about 3500), and feels like it'll rev a little higher but it still feels like it's missing power. i did notice that if i squeeze the primer bulb the power comes back and it feels like it should. so i suspect the problem is in the fuel delivery. the first thing i checked was the tank, the vent was open. i also noticed that primer bulb is harder than normal to squeeze, regardless if the fuel filter is empty. so actually i think the problem is within the hose or primer. anyone ever has this kind of problem before? or have any suggestions? by the way this is a 2001 25hp mercury OB 2 stroke thanks steve

if you're lurking around here still, personally, i too would buy a used boat. only you can decide if you can budget a new boat on top of everything else. i'd say that if you can do it, still pay off everything else go for it. but i do feel that school should be the first priority. When i purchased my boat i didn't realize the extra expenses, such as registration of the boat and trailer, fishing license(s), PFD's, gas, bait, fishing gear, maintenance for the boat/trailer ect. These are just a few other things to think about. I've seen some nice setups for $5-6K. def not trying to deter you from a nice boat or anything. good luck with whatever you choose!

i agree with this. i waited and saved money and i bought my boat in cash, granted it was only $1400, but i'm so glad i don't have a loan or another bill to pay on it.

great deal! i just recently finished my boat and i think i got a killer deal on it so i know how you feel. it's a great feeling, especially when you get a good deal. i don't know about you, but all i want to do is go out on the boat lol. i don't care if fish or not or if i even get a bite. as for the other two sorry i can't be of assistance. i know there have been a few threads about insurance but i can't recall who is using what. it may even be on page 2.

I just reread that. are you using a 4 wire plug or more? if its 4 wires, the brown wire is the one for the running lights. it sounds like that is where your problem is if all other lights are working ok except the running lights. you may have a poor connection in one of the connectors or even where the connector is sliced into the tow vehicle. i would start by seeing if the brown wire on the tow vehicles is getting power. if it's not, the problem is on the tow vehicle wiring. if it is getting power, then connect it to the trailer, probe the brown wire and see if you're getting power on the brown wire. if you are, keep moving down the wire until you get less than ~12v. it sounds like your ground is good if the brake lights and turn signals are working. but i've seen some wierd stuff happen when there is a bad ground. so definately check for good ground, specifically near the running lights. hope this helps. good luck!!

awesome thats exactly what i was looking for. thanks

hello, i have a 2001 25 hp mercury that's manual tilt and a quicksilver control box. it has the ability to control a trim/tilt. i've been looking around and haven't found much info about trim/tilt systems for this small of a motor. i don't HAVE to have it, but it would be nice and eventually i would like to get a 40 hp. i've seen a few T/T systems for 40's. anyone have any info on what i would be looking for in a T/T system for a 25 hp motor? is it something i can just add to the motor or would i have to change the mounting brackbet on the motor as well. also, any idea if it would be compatable with a 40 hp? thanks steven

this isn't really help on launching a boat, more courtesy, but this drives me crazy. if your launching/recovering at night, please turn off your headlights while you're at the ramp. it's so difficult to find a ramp when someones headlights are blinding you. personally, if i use lights, i try to only use my parking lights. last week i was launching and this guy has a lifted F150 was just sitting in the ramp trying to recover his boat but was having trouble. he must have been down there for about 10 minutes with his lights on the whole time. > end rant

oh man. thanks for the great info. this isn't the best FF anyways. i was mainly going to use it for depth anyways. unless i can get a transducer for next to nothing, i think i'll look at getting a new one. i've been wanting GPS too ;D

come to think of it, after i hooked it up i went to the transducer and i didn't hear a thing. i've heard people say that it's loud enough if you stuck your ear by it you should hear it. i'm going to double check the wiring (previous owner cut the wire for the transom) and see what happens. lets say i do hear clicking, typically, what would the depth show if it was out of water? thanks again!

Hello, I have an older humminbird wide 100 that came with the boat. i got it all hooked up last night and it comes on fine, the transducer is hooked up correctly, but all my depths are between 195-250. this is any time, whether i'm anchored or moving. last night it was smooth as glass. i don't think it's been used since about 2002. i tried changing the sensativity up and down, has no effect. any other suggestions other than buying a new one? thanks steve

cool thanks for the replies! now i just need to find a plug for it. maybe over the fall/winter i'll put in an electric one.

i was curious how people's livewells drained out of the boat. mine appears to just use a stopper. didn't know if this was normal, or what options i have if i want to make an electronic drain. would it be possible to put a fill pump on the drain end? or would water still 'pass' it and empty the tank? oh ya, and how do most people add oxygen to the tank? recurculate or use an aerator? after reading some info it seems that aeratation is the best? thanks steve

I've really been looking at getting some kind of boat for about a year and half but haven't had the time or money until recently when things started falling into place. about a 4 weeks ago my friend called me up and said he would give me $20 to haul off his hold boat trailer to dispose of it for him. He said he had the title, it needed some work but no boat. instead i asked him if he would let me have it instead of paying me to get rid of it, he said yes. the trailer itself was in pretty good shape, very very few places with surface rust. the trailer looks like it was painted over a few times, actually i believe i have counted 4 layers including the original. everything was painted over, the lug nuts, hubs, nuts, bolts, rollers...you name it. i started taking off all the old bolts, pretty much every single bolt broke due to too much paint or surface corrosion. needless to say, this took a lot longer than i planned, not to mention the weather wasn't cooperating sometimes. after talking to some friends who used a roll-in bed line on their 4x4's i decided to go ahead and paint the whole trailer with 2 coats (some areas with 3) of plasticoat roll in bed liner. everything on the trailer is now replaced except the hubs,fenders, axle, springs and bunk/roller supports. most of the nuts and bolts are galvanized accept a few odd sizes that i could only get in zinc. the only thing i've got left to do is carpet the bunks and bolt then in place, adjust the roller height and bolt on the winch. i probably wouldn't do this again, it's been a lot more work than i anticipated but it's been fun. i've got roughly about $200 tied into everything including new tires and wheels. so far the bed liner has held up well, actually better than i though. i've dropped a hammer and drillbit on the trailer and it didn't chip it or anything and today is day 3 of straight rain and doesn't seem to have any trouble with moisture. the trailer is pretty heavy duty, it's 3" square tube for the main section, the areas that are 'C' shaped are pretty heavy guaged. I also recently purchased a 15' spectrum that i will transfer to this trailer because it's in much better shape and stronger. soon i'm hoping to get some pictures of the boat up. i've got some better 'before' pictures that i can't seem to find right now, so here's what i got..hope everyone likes it particially painted bottom side. birds like to poop on my tailer for some reason > almost complete lights wired up (they look crooked in this pic for some reason). this is pretty much how it sits right now except i've got the jack on it now. here is a scrap peice of metal i had, so i make an offset spare tire carrier. still needs to be drilled out and painted. i think i'm going to tack a wheel stud to the back of the smaller peice to hold the tire on. don't be too harsh on my welding, i'm still learning. and finally here is the boat that i got for $1350, ill try to post more pictures on the boat as it comes along. thanks for looking, let me know what you think! steve

Hello, I've searched around and found many types of carpet and i saw someone on here used indoor/outdoor carpet on their boat. i was wondering if anyone has any first hand experience how this holds up. his boat looks real good (sorry, can't remember who it was). i haven't found anywhere real close that has marine carpet in stock and i'd like to start on it tomorrow if i can. thanks! steve

aaahhh that makes a lot more since. so far everything that i've looked at on the boat has been in good shape so i'm probably missing something or overlooked something. it started getting dark so i couldn't really mess with it too much. if anything i'll either get some kind of stopper for the bottom of the livewell. if i wanted to make some kind of electronic drain, could i just 'flip; the fill valve and wire a switch to it on the console? are there specific electronic valves to buy? thanks again steve

So i've just purchased a newer boat and it has a livewell. I don't quite understand the fill/drain situation. It's got a pump to fill it, and a drain in the bottom. I don't see any type of valve or anything to keep the water from coming out. it's pretty basic, there is a fill pump located below the water level and there is a drain. I'm assuming there should be some kind of valve or something on the drain? if not all the water would empty out while moving or going over waves right? also there is no overflow. it would be pretty easy for me to install one, but would it be necessary as long as i keep an eye on the water level when it's filling? thanks for the help steve

i used Kleen Strip in an arisole can. it was about $5.50 from walmart. for the Paint, I used just a regular rustoleum. Gray primer, with semi gloss white. nothing special for that.

in the past i've used this stuff from rustoleum that bonds with the rust and turns it black. of course it's only for surface rust. you clean the area and apply then inhibitor. it's sandable and paintable. it's worked well for me but i haven't used it personally on a trailer or anything that could be wet for a prolonged period of time. if you went pretty heavy on it, i think it would last for a while. i did use it on a steel wheel and the insides of a fender for a tailer and painted it pretty heavily. it's held up real well so far, that was a few weeks ago. i think that good prep work is key though. also, i've never tried POR15 personally, but my friend has and he loved it. granted this was on the rear end of a car.

I've been so busy lately, i'm sorry i haven't got back to you about it. Im at work right now for a little longer then i'll be able to tell you exactly what products it was. I didn't sand anything, but i used a wirebrush, in some spots I used a paint striping wheel that was about $7 and works real well if you have a high speed drill or angle grinder. I forgot to mention about the paint striper, it burns a bit if you get it on your skin. wear a long sleeve shirt lol.

LBH, interesting info about the bedliner material. All else aside, how did it hold up being constantly wet? did it ever 'peel' or come off? Here's my experience with rattle can paints: I started with cheap primer and paint on a steel wheel. i striped all the old stuff off, painted it with 2 or 3 coats of primer then 3 coats of white. i accidently left the wheel (after it was dry) outside by my trailer for 2 days when it was raining. after it stopped I could see rust coming through the white paint. So i put gas on the wheel and lit it on fire and burned everything off and the next time i used rustoleum primer and white rustoleum paint with about the same number of coats. I haven't seen a hint of rust or discoloration and it's rained a few times. Granted I haven't left it out for 2 days straigth yet. As for aluminum, I started repainting some parts of an old john boat and used the same paint and primer. I started painting the inside bottom first, the paint dried thoughly. since then it's rained a lot and had about 4-5 inches of water in the bottom of the boat for 3 days straight. I had no issues at all. just my .02 when i get home i'll see if i can get the exact type of paint and striper. I used a few different stripers and found 1 from walmart for about $5.00 that worked the best. it was strong, but didnt' go as far as i hoped. on the otherhand, i found an 'aircraft striper' from an autoparts store which wasn't quite as strong but i could use it more sparingly. both however did better than BIX Striper. I would not recommend that. My friend told me that a local paint shop has an 'aircraft striper' that you brush on, it works in about 30 minutes and eats up everything. it's about $30 a gallon. I haven't personally used this, but he has.