dmac14

1- 7" roboworms 2- 7" power shaky worms (I don't think they make these anymore though) 3- 5" *** trick sticks 4- Zoom finesse worm

or a bad knot...

Give a big 1/2-3/4oz white spinnerbait a try, burning spinnerbaits has produced me my best smallmouth. Also try a pop-r those have produced me fantastic fish in the morning, and nothing wakes you up like a 3# smallie three feet in the air.

Use Stick Jackets, I do not own a boat so I have never actually used a rod locker, but whenever I go as a non boater all the rods in the rod box have stick jackets. As for bending that shouldn't make the slightest difference on rod life.

I was reading another thread and a few mentioned which order dictated whether you had fish or not. A few factors I was thinking are location, cover, structure, bait, color, presentation, time of day ect. I would like to see how everyone stacks up their order of importance. Mine would be: 1. Time of day 2. Location 3. Cover or Structure (depending on location) 4. Bait + Line type 5. Presentation 6. Color

I don't know of any out of Cape Cod. But if you are willing to go out of Rhode Island then you should look into Frances Fleet. They offer plenty of different trips and always are able to catch fish. http://www.francesfleet.com/ Any questions send me a Pm.

Here is exactly what they are talking about, this was a study I did during late September early October. Although this was not in the heat of the summer you can still see that the Conesus graph has oxygen below 6 mg/l below 10 meters, further into the fall the lake will become less stratified and thus "turn over". This lake is heavily eutrophic, with almost no light penetration past 9 meters, with Secchi disk visibility of about 2.25 meters. So to answer the question yes they do migrate to deeper water but you need to know your lake as to where O2 levels get to a point where bass cannot be sustained. This lake would have productive "deep-water" between 20-25ft.

I think the classic is a bit too much for them, I am in college as well..not nearly as talented a these kids though. Maybe instead of the classic just admittance into the elites, then if they are indeed good they can qualify through there.

http://www.***.com/Comfortroll/descpage-COMFTR.html Take a look into this, if you dont want to buy it just look at the dimensions.

I just bought a walmart 29, if you are truly worried about the battery dieing you could always buy two and run them in parallel. If you look at my post "batteries completely dead" ann-marie made a comment about how much the battery life span is cut down if you run the batteries below 50%. So in theory if you bought two batteries and paralleled them they would most likely last longer than if you buy two separately. Especially seeing as you might possibly drain the one completely on a trip, if you had two you would only drain each to half, thus greatly increasing the life span. Just a thought.

Awesome thanks ann-marie, looks like I will do that then.

Its just a lone battery, not in series. Down the road I might buy another and run them parallel but for now it is just one. Edit: Is it bad to run in parallel if they are not the same?

Alright I believe I determined one of my trolling motor batteries to be shot, it reads 12v+ but it is definitely not powering the trolling motor like it should, it is a huge difference. So I plan on purchasing a new battery but I want to make sure I am doing it right this time. What are some basic tips to keeping a battery in good condition? So far I have heard to charge it directly after use, keep the water levels at the correct level, don't discharge it fully, and when storing keep it charged. Anything else I am missing? I don't want to kill another $100 battery. Thanks

I own a 7'0mh vendetta, and I love it. I use it for everything from 3/4oz spinner baits to 1/8th oz tubes, handles all well. I have it with a curado and 12# mono and I have found myself using that combo the majority of the time. I recently purchased the veritas and an awaiting its arrival, I'm hoping it is similar to the vendetta. And with a vendetta @ $80 you can't beat it

Alright, hooked up the voltmeter, at each of the three charger outputs, one was at 14.2v and the other two were at like 13.5v. Put it on the charger today and I will let them sit tonight and test it tomorrow morning. Quick question though, when charging are you supposed to crack open those top plates? The acid inside seems to be boiling over and around the caps is wet.