bilgerat

Oh, you must be talking about Skinamax... :-*

2" to 3". The 3" will weed out smaller crappie and 'gills. I've caught BIG bass on small baits. Happens for me every season, it's no fluke. Go with a light power spinning rig. 6 # test. You'll have a blast.

I've read that smaller buzzbaits outfish the larger ones at times. I've got some 1/8 oz Strike Kings and Booyahs in solid black and solid white lined up to put this theory to test. Can't wait for the warm weather to try them out.

The sale ends on 4/9/11

I'm looking at the flier and it says catalog and internet orders only. If I'm not mistaken, the first segment of the spring classic was in-store only. It couldn't hurt to try. There are some good deals.

I don't know about the ones you have, but the ones I got from Dick's on clearance a few years have the most toxic smell I've ever, well....smelled. Never caught anything on them, they're in my bait bin of shame.

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_29847_100005001_100000000_100005000?cm_ven=bazaarvoice&cm_cat=RLP&cm_pla=29847&cm_ite=productname_link I'll tell you what, I'm the worst crankbait fisherman you've ever seen but this is the third weekend in a row that this little booger has got it done for me. Forget that it weighs 1/8 oz and is under two inches long. Forget it's marketed as a pond bait for panfish. Bass have been inhaling these things, as well as dinner plate sized crappie. I'm not talking dink bass either, my biggest so far this year was over 3 lb. Ghost and charteuse/blue back have been the hot patterns for me. At under $4 a pop, they're a steal. I have found them for as little as $2.50 at Wally World. Have not had any run bad out of the box. Some of my older ones will occasionally tangle the front and rear trebles on the cast. Strike King must be aware of this as my newer ones have a short shank treble on the rear which eliminates this problem. You'll need no heavier than a light power rod to throw these. My setup is a 6' 8" Fenwick Elite Tech River Runner UL spinning rig. 10/4 braid with a 6 lb mono leader throws this quite a ways and zero hookup issues. If the bite is tough, don't be afraid to downsize.

The same reason aliens only visit morons.

Check your pm's.

At least it's not like when my first daughter was born when the hospital power went out and the backup generators didn't kick in. Best wishes for you and the girls. She'll have you wrapped around her finger in no time.

"Whining"...

I'd rather be a smart feller instead of a fart smeller.

Oh yay, France says they're with us and Britain. That'll last about four minutes. They'll probably let Gadhafi live there after he gets overthrown and protect him until he dies.

A 12' aluminun jon I got from a buddy's dad for $50. A couple of truck mudflaps for floor panels and a dinky Minn Kota and I was on my way...

You're going to get 50 different opinions. The best thing is to go with braid. If not, do this: Spool it any way you like. Then, preferably in a large open space, open the bail and lay the rod down. Pick up the line and walk it out until it's down to the spool or close to it. Now walk back to the rod, pick it up and close the bail. Pinch the line between your thumb and forefinger to keep tension on it. Reel it all back in. The twists and coils will work themselves out. Now soak the line with a generous dose of KVD Line and Lure Treatment. You'll be good to go.

These...http://www.***.com/descpage-OMOS.html They're so sharp your eyes will start to bleed if you stare at them too long :

They blow. Couldn't catch a cold on 'em....

Thats wasting money. You are literally spending double the amount of money on oil over the life of a car. The truth is most conventional oils can normally go up to 5K. Synthetics twice that. I was told by an valvoline rep at a service station I worked at in HS that "most can do 5k with ease. The 3k reccomendation is to sell more oil" There are lot of variables involved, and some engines need to be changed more often than others. Visually inspecting your oil can tell you alot about your engine. yeah, I guess so. But my 1990 civic is really hold up, it takes me from home to work and that's all Im asking from her. But I also own a Q7, and a GS450 which I change oil every 5k. Visually inspecting your oil tells you nothing. An oil analysis done by a certified lab is the only way to properly anylize oil. Oil change intervals can vary greatly. Around town stop and go driving is the worst on an engine. The engine never gets hot enough for long enough to burn off the condensation inside the engine. Every 3000 miles should work for this type of driving. Highway drivers can go 5000+ before a change. My 2011 Honda doesn't go by mileage, the computer figures % of life left in the oil.

No. A heavier oil will do more harm and no good. Mileage will suffer as a heavier oil will cause more friction and resistance in the engine. Use any oil with the API http://www.aa1car.com/library/API_donut.gif symbol on it. Don't get sucked into additives either. They're a waste of money. Just change the oil when it's due.

Wow! I think that kids leg snapped! Big Kid is strong! Thats my friends--- sons--- friend he got suspended for protecting himself Your friend from Australia ?....http://technolog.msnbc.msn.com/_news/2011/03/15/6275007-kid-bodyslams-bully-becomes-instant-web-hero?gt1=43001

Stopped into Dick's today to pick up a folding grapnel anchor for my kayak. They didn't have any on the shelf so the Lodge manager calls me over to a store computer and says "If you see the one you want on our website, we'll ship it free to your house" They had it, so I bought it. I thought that was pretty cool of them. I wasn't aware that they did things like that.

Most of my fish this year have come on a Strike King Bitsy Pond Minnow crankbait....1 1/4" long and weighs 1/8 oz. Ghost color (all white, except for black kill dot) Blue back/chartreuse has done equally well. Same murky cold water. Go figure....

I was quite the mouthy little bast*rd when I was young, but even then there were lines I wouldn't cross. These kids skateboarded way past that line... About four years ago I had a run in with a 14 year old wannabe gangster in my neighborhood. Apparently they teach law in middle school as this this little peckerhead knew what buttons to push to try and get me to hit him (I didn't) Two nights later we came home to find the side of our house spray painted with the same "gang logo" this little a- hole had posted all over his My Space page. A real criminal genius. I told the cops that if they didn't find the kid, I would. I don't know what happened after that, but that kid and his friends avoided my street like it was filled with alligators. The family got tossed out of their house about a year later, he's someone else's problem now...

pissant, shmissant... ;D that's a nice fish.

If you are serious about this, you will need to invest in some basic tools. If you have a decent hobby store in your area, you can find precision pliers, screwdrivers, etc. similar to what's on this site... http://www.micromark.com/?gclid=CJ7U3a30yacCFcfe4AodZSvLEg For screwdrivers I would suggest these...http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26199-Slotted-Phillips-Screwdriver/dp/B000NZ5QG0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1299963475&sr=8-1 They are the some of the finest made and they will last a lifetime. You should also have a small pick set in addition to good screwdrivers and a variety of pliers. A 1/4" drive socket set (metric) with shallow and deep sockets is helpful also. You could have walked that clip out with a tiny flat bladed screwdriver or a pick. ALWAYS keep a finger over clips as they will shoot across the room never to be seen again. You're on your way, just keep your head and learn to walk away for a few minutes when things get **itty. One more thing I do is note the orientation of every single piece. Often there are subtle differences between, for example, the two sides of a gear or washer. Schematics usually don't show the detail of smaller parts. Some guys take pictures, I sketch them on paper. Details are everything when it comes to working on reels.