SimonDM17

That distance seems really good for only 3/8ths of an ounce. Unless you're using the rod for cranking, though, distance isn't really as important as accuracy. (Although, I guess if you're throwing a carolina rig distance is kind of important too.) If you can hit small targets(pockets in pads, edges of trees, etc), consistently, without a large splash, from 20 yards, that's about as good as you need to be in most situations, IMHO.

I started with a P.O.S BPS reel, which was a mistake. For less money than the Citica, you could go with the PQ (set the centrifugal breaks to 3 on, 3 off to start, then play with the magnets) or the Extreme, which just has magnetic breaks but is cheaper and a fine reel for casting heavier (1/2 oz+) lures. I hear good things about the Daiwa Exceler too, and if you could find a used Advantage or Tierra either of those are great reels. Whatever reels you get, make sure you adjust the spool tension knob so the lure slowly drops when the reel is in freespool. Once you get more practiced you can back it off a little. Probably the easiest lure to practice with would be a crankbait, a DT-10 or something, or a big topwater. And if you've always used spinning gear, you might feel more comfortable with a LH reel...

Yo Zuri 12lb Ultra Soft blows 12lb Suffix Siege out of the water. Additionally, for some reason i've never really explored, since I stopped using Siege, the knot strength goes absolutely awful in very cold (39-45 degree) weather.

12' canoe

Dick's does have some good sales. Several of my rods are Shimano Convergence rods, which are a great value for what I paid for them (about 20 a pop). Fuji components, IM-6 graphite, decent sensitivity...if you can find them, they're great value rods, as is the Clarus line.

I agree with Nate. Edit: Except I use PowerPro braid. The red is a lot easier to see than the green, but I don't like tying direct with the red.

As was said above, I think there are a couple different jig bites. Sometimes they absolutely kill it. I find that if I'm jigging through or over lily pads, my jig will get absolutely hammered--there's no mistaking that bite. On the other hand, if I'm fishing the jig next to or around wood, I get the "thump" bite a lot, where the bass will inhale the jig, hold it, and not move. I solve the "wood or fish?" problem by using braid--when I bump wood with braid, there's a hollow sort of impact akin to rapping on a plank, while a bass inhaling the jig doesn't have the same hollow feeling.

You guys (Capt. O) need to re-read the TT reviews. IMHO, the Cumulus shouldn't be in their contest--it's unfair to put a high-end stick into a general-purpose competition. They should have a price cap on it. Anyway, the Cumulus won out on: Weight Component quality Balancing torque Sensitivity And the Vendetta won out on: Value for the money Design (which is even more inherently subjective than sensitivity) Further, and please correct me if I'm wrong, the Vendetta is publicized as using 30-ton graphite. Isn't that of good, but not great, quality? There's also the warranty (2-year, $10+S&H versus lifetime over-the-counter). In terms of value for money, the Vendetta is obviously superior. In terms of absolute performance, the Cumulus is equally obviously superior.

I have a Tierra (which you can often find on eBay, at least in RH, for a lot less than retail), but not a Citica or PQ. I haven't really been pleased by BPS products in the past, even though the PQ has had rave reviews. Contrary to the posts above, I love my tierra and I think it's a fantastic caster. It's very hard to backlash, I really like the breaking system (and the Magforce-Z is the highest end Daiwa one, I believe). It casts better than the Curado101D I had. I don't like centrifugal brakes, though. I actually like being able to adjust my breaking to whatever kind of casting I want to do, and whatever the conditions are. Also the drag on my Tierra is just fine, and smooth throughout its range.

1. Yes. Mono. 2. No. Same diameter as the braid or less. I use a 1/4lb spool of 6lb line I got for $1.99. It's junk. But if you want to save braid/money, you can fill the spool halfway with mono and then use braid just on the top half. 3. Yes, if you: Want more abrasion resistance Less line visibility A little bit more stretch in your line otherwise, no. For braid-lure connections, use a palomar knot. For braid-backing or braid-leader, a uni-to-uni has always worked for me, although I hear good things about the Albright/Alberto.

I have the 7' H casting rod, I got it a couple weeks ago. I like it a lot. It's a little bit tip heavy, I think that's to be expected at its price point, but decently light and sensitive. Good frog/c-rig rod. Could probably also do small/hollow-body swimbaits, but I haven't tried that yet.

I'll use a leader for: Visibility Abrasion resistance (or pickerel resistance) Getting a lure to run shallower or deeper Giving a walk-the-dog lure better action A C-rig I don't generally use leaders longer than 4' bass fishing. I'll use up to 7' for trout. I also like to use a leader if I'm fishing a treble hook lure on braid, I feel like the extra stretch keeps the hooks from coming out as often.

P-Line Spectrex for spinning, PP for casting. I think the Spectrex has more body, and I noticed it got fewer wind knots on spinning gear, but the PP handled better on casting gear. Also, I couldn't pick out a backlash of Spectrex for the life of me.

My P-line Spectrex, 20lb and 30lb, has definitely lost some color. However, I think less than the PP. (On a slightly related note, I think Spectrex has more 'body' to it than PP, or maybe PP just lays on the spool better. Either way, I stepped down from 30lb PP to 20lb Spectrex on my spinning setup, and I was happy with the change. The Spectrex has yet to cause one wind knot on spinning gear, which is my biggest peeve ever. The PP will wind knot on spinning gear, but I think it's better for baitcasters.) I just spooled up a reel with 40lb PP in Phantom Red, and I got absolutely zero gunk on my hands, guides or levelwind. I was very impressed. Maybe the green is the worst?

Yeah, I love the stuff too...just picked up a spool of 40lb (at Dick's too) for my frog/c-rig rod. I have 20lb, 15lb and 10lb on spinning rods too. If you used PP on a casting rod, you HAVE to try it on spinning gear too...it's awesome. Go with 10 or 15lb for casting distance, unless you use spinning gear for jigs like I do.

The rod you want is going to be heavy or medium-heavy. Braid is necessary, especially if you ever want to fish any hollow-body frogs (like the Spro) with it, which I'd highly reccomend. I think the best budget combo would be an Abu Vengeance 6'6" H, or any heavy action rod you can get for cheap, since sensitivity doesn't really matter with topwater, and your favored reel. Maybe a BPS Extreme? also, you need minimum 30lb braid.

Although I've heard the Clarus is definitely the best value, I have a couple Shimano Convergence rods and I love them for the price. I think I payed $22 for my 6'6" MH rod, and I have a 6'M and a 6'6" M as well, payed 18-25 for those. If you can find them on sale, they're an awesome buy. Fuji components, IM-6 graphite, reasonable sensitivity, etc...only problem is finding them new and on sale.

As everyone has said, palomar. But if you can't do a palomar on a lure, like if it's a really big spook or something, I use a double improved clinch. two loops through the eye, and then tie like a regular improved clinch.

I'd go with a 6'6" MH. Flukes aren't light, and with the right line (I'd say 15-20lb braid) you should be able to bomb them out there. Plus the MH will make setting the hook a breeze, and let you fish the fluke in between pads without fear of getting hung up.

Is that the Stren invisibraid, the fused, white one? I think it got discontinued, and for a good reason.

I don't want to upset the Shimano crowd, I love their spinning reels, but I've been only moderately impressed by the Curado 101D I have. I've heard very good things about the pro qualifier, and I definitely like magnetic brakes more than centrifugal.

Braid. I haven't really thrown a lot of buzzfrogs, though--anywhere I can throw a buzzfrog (rage tail or horny toad) I can throw a buzzbait and get a better hookup ratio. But, absolutely braid for buzzbaits--I'm usually throwing them either alongside or in pads/weeds, and I don't want the fish to have a chance to dive down. I will add a heavy mono leader sometimes, though. Like if there's a lot of wood or thorns, or pickerel, or the bass are absolutely crushing the buzzbait and ripping holes in their mouth. The last one I add a mono leader because I feel like it helps absorb shock and keep a hole large enough to toss the hook from forming.

I'd have to agree with the ElazTech 4" worm, or perhaps their Z-Too. It had a tendency to run a little crooked and misbehave, but with a 3/32 oz. weighted gammie, about 2/3rds of them had a fantastic action; walk-the-dog underwater, wide or tight, and then an amazing wobble on the vertical fall. plus they were close to indestructible, I had one bait on for over 30 fish. Next to that, I'd have to say the Yum Craw Papi. It's a huge favorite of mine, but I've never seen anyone else use it. Great clear-water bait on a light jighead.

Fast works just fine too, especially if you want the rod to pull more duties. But yeah, x-fast is nice for moderate cover too.

something i've been starting to do is use a 2-part leader for c-rigging with braid. 20lb braid to 1-2' of 20lb yo-zuri hybrid to swivel to 10lb leader. that way the 20lb hybrid can do abrasion resistance duties but not mess with the sensitivity.