@ScottW: you just need to take a break for now. Reels are tools so as an angler, it behooves you to be proficient with both. A basketball player who can only dribble with one hand is only half a player.
that said, I can relate as I too came from a spinning background and unfortunately, mechanics are much more critical with bc reels than spinning reels.
1) there is no such thing as a birdsnest free bc reel. No fancy schmancy electronics (ie, dc or other) replaces the thumb … period. ?
2) bottom line, assuming the reel is properly set, your thumb has to stop the spool from spinning before your lure hits the water. That is right, stop it cold turkey. Feathering the spool with your thumb bearing the end of the cast may be used as needed.
3) one of the hardest things spinning reel users must overcome when adding casting reels to their arsenal is making note of the timing and position of when the thumb comes off the spool at the beginning of the cast. Unfortunately, with a bc reel, the thumb comes off the spool much earlier than the forefinger does on a spinning reel. For the overhand cast: Picture a clock with 12 above your head and 9 directly in front of you. Your thumb needs to come off the spool when the tip of your is somewhere between 1:00 and 1:30. If you release at or before 2:00, that will likely result in a cast that goes higher than it goes forward. If you release after 12:00, you risk having the lure slamming down about 10’ in front of you. If this happens, refer immediately to number 2. Stop the spool from spinning completely NOW! If your thumb fails to react before the lure hits the water that = birdsnest. Sidearm casts? They are exactly the same but your rod is in a different plane.
4) stick with lures that are at least 3/8oz for now. Also, don’t write off bc reels until you try a good workhorse. Others here will agree that if you choose the workhorse class reel from SHIMANO, Daiwa, or Lews, etc., your experience and learning curve most likely going to be “easier”
5) casting mechanics - sometimes we spinning fishermen know we can get away with bad mechanics with spinning gear and it’s a bad habit. Casting gear won’t tolerate this. Ensure that on every cast the lure’s weight loads the rod and this will pay you dividends in excellent casts and in efficiency. Maximum casts with minimal effort and therefore less fatigue.
6) take the time to understand your reel. Figure out its traits and limitations. When something goes wrong on a cast, ask yourself why it happened and what could be done to rectify that.
Example #1 from personal experience: Why in the #*#+}£} world is my lure always slamming down right in front of me? Solution - releasing the thumb too late. Learned that the release point is as I described above.
Example #2 my first cast ever with new 30# braid slams into the ground in front of and the spool is spinning what seems to me to be way too fast. Why? Because no brakes were “on”. You idiot, and you wasted a brand new spool of braid. ??. Solution - turn on some brakes and use mono in between 10-14# test to learn on. Way more economical while learning.
This mindset really helped me to learn how to use bc reels much more quickly than if I didn’t take this approach.
I’m recommending you keep trying until you tame this beast. I use both reel types and I am not biased toward either. Both can do some applications fairly equally, but you will come to learn when and where one might outshine the other, regardless if it is by just a little or a lot.
You can do this, young padawan ?