SCBASS

If you are set on an autoloader, this is about the cheapest they come for a new one. It is actually a Russian made gun (Baikal) that Remington imports. They are not the most refined guns but are very reliable and will shoot 2 3/4" to 3 1/2" shells. http://www.remington.com/products/firearms/shotguns/SPR_models/SPR453_autoloader.asp Check out this video

I have a few of the 3770's and probably 7 or 8 of the 3771's. Compared to the regular 3700 series, they are molded much thicker so they aren't as flimsy. I really like being able to create the perfect size compartment for each bait and these boxes allow me to. My only complaint with these boxes is that they are heavy. I would bet that one 3771 box weighs as much as two 3700 boxes. If your keeping them in a boat there is no need for concern but if you carry a bag full of them you can definitely feel it. I got mine from Tackle Warehouse because they were half the price of my local shop.

Here is what I would do: 1. Check the compression with a compression gauge. 2. Check to make sure the motor has spark. 3. Look inside the gas tank and check for water or rust. 4. Check the lower unit oil for proper level and contamination. 5. Make sure it will go into forward, neutral and reverse. If those all pass the test, you should be able to get it running without spending too much money. A carb rebuild kit is cheap, a motor rebuild isn't. It may be very simple to get going or it may not. If it was stored properly, you may only need to drain the gas and flush the tank. If the gas was not drained out of the carb and prior to storage, you will likely have to get a carb rebuild kit. Let me know if you have any more questions.

Are you using a metal tank? I know you said that the tank was clean but what you are describing makes me think not. If you just filled the tank there is a good possibility that you stirred up some rust or debris in the tank. I am unfamiliar with that particular motor but these steps should help you diagnose where the fuel flow stops if there is a clog. Start by making sure that the hose and primer are not clogged. Disconnect the hose end from the motor and use a screwdriver to depress the valve on the hose connection. If gas squirts out when you squeeze the primer then at least you know they are not the problem. If there is no clog, reconnect the line so you can check if the fuel pump. The easiest way to check the fuel pump would be to disconnect the fuel line on the outlet side of the pump (the line that goes from the fuel pump to the carburetor). With the primer bulb firm, turn the motor over. When you pull the rope, gas should pulse out of the fuel pump. If it does, you have narrowed it down to a carburetor issue. Hope this isn't too confusing and it helps you diagnose the problem.

I suggest you check out the Shimano Compre Crankbait rods since you plan to throw trouble hook lures. I have a cpc-c66mb and it works great for light cranks. There's a big difference in action between the crc-x66m your using now and a medium power crankbait rod. If you want another Crucial check out the crc-c66m. IMO the difference between the Crucial and Compre is not worth the extra $40. Hope that helps.

I don't think they are discontinuing the Saros, Stradic or Sustain (the $100+ reels) since they were just redesigned. The Symetre and Sahara should be going on sale within the next few weeks.

If you do not need a new reel right now, you may just want to wait until after ICAST. There is something going on with the models below the Saros. My guess is that they will be getting the same updates as the higher end reels did last year. If you're set on the current models, they should be going on sale within the next couple weeks as companies start to clear them out.

If I'm interpreting you correctly, you're asking about the actual utility boxes. I use the 3700, 3701, 3770 and 3771 boxes from Plano. The 3700 is just their basic box and it works great for storing all sorts of baits. The 3701 is the thin version of the 3700 and it is great for storing thin baits. The 3770 and 3771 have a unique adjustment system that can be set up exactly how you want it. I really like the 3770 and 3771 because there is no wasted space and each compartment can be the exact size you want. The only downfall is that they are heavier because the plastic is molded thicker. I would suggest you go to your local tackle shop and check out a bunch of different boxes to see what will work best for YOU. Pay attention to the latches and dividers on the different boxes because they are not all equal. Hope that helps. Here's a link for pictures. http://www.planomolding.com/tackle/products.asp

It sounds to me that the rods you are using have poor quality guides. Trilene XL should not be damaging your guides. Just out of curiosity, what rods are you using?

I normally texas rig them. You can also use the treble and bullet weight for open water rigging. There are directions for rigging on the inside of the back of the package. The cardboard is folded in half so it's easy to miss.

WRONG! Yo-Zuri Hybrid and Hybrid Ultra Soft both float, all sizes, all colors and in all water. They are not so buoyant that sinking baits are affected, but the line itself floats. RW, Matt is right. The line will stay on the surface due to surface tension, but it does sink once it breaks the surface.

I have the crc-x70h and I like it a lot. The 7'2" should work great for pitching into heavy cover. I have use mine for flipping and pitching but it should fulfill your other needs as well. I have never owned a Kistler rod so I don't know how it would compare to the Crucial. Hope that helps.

mono

I use 8lb Seaguar Invizx Fluorocarbon and have no issues. If your looking for a product to condition your line, I would check out KVD Line and Lure. Their product works very well and they are a sponsor of this site.

You are absolutely correct! I got my wording a bit mixed up. What I meant to say is that there was only a 100b model and that the 200b was the only one not to incorporate the SF technology.

I'll take a stab at it. The curado 100d and citica 100dsv are very similar and have the same profile. The curado has one more bearing than the citica and also comes in many more options. The bearing absent in the citica is a shaft support bearing for the handle. This means that cast performance are virtually the same. The citica only comes in a right hand, deep spool version where as the curado comes in both right and left hand models for the regular and deep spools. The old curado model your thinking of is either a 200 BSF or the 100b. The 200BSF has a similar bearing lay out as the new 100d but the profile and components are different. Lastly, the 100b is the smaller version of the regular 200b but it utilizes the super free design like the 200BSF.

What they just said.^^^^^^^^ The biggest difference is that one is six inches longer. With a 7' rod, you can potentially make longer casts compared to a 6'6". That being said, a shorter rod will potentially be easier to make more accurate casts. The more important factors are the power and action. To me, an ideal plastics rod would be medium heavy power with an extra fast action. If the rod is not powerful and the action too slow, it is much harder to set the hook. If your set on the medium power, that's fine, just make sure the action in fast or extra fast.

I like the Fuji EZ Keepers. http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_58449_999034012_100000000_100004000_100-4-2

I bought a few T-2's last year because the titanium wire was intriguing. The blades and skirts are nice but the many problems were disappointing. One swivel froze up within the first hour of fishing and another fell apart. Also, the eyes fell off easily and two of the four I bought did not run true. Needless to say, I won't be buying them again.

It's hard to say without knowing what your using the rod for. I think you would be happy with one of these three choices: 10-15lb Seaguar Invizx Fluorocarbon, 10-14lb Sufix Elite or Siege Monofilament, 30-50lb Sufix Performance Braid. Those are the three that I choose to use on my baitcasting equipment and they fill my needs. I use 3 different types of line because I feel each one has a place where it shines. I use braid when fishing heavy cover, fluorocarbon for deeper water techniques and mono for topwater, cranks and other shallow presentations. Again, it's hard to say what type of line will suit you best when we don't know what the combo will be used for. It does not matter what other people think about a line as long as you like it. Try some different lines out and see which ones YOU like best. My .02 on line choice.

For me the larger Okeechobee bag that holds 8 370 boxes was a little too big for my needs but the next smallest (4 370 boxes) was to small. I decided to go with a Bill Dance Plano bag that comes with and holds 6 3750 boxes. So far it has worked out great for me and for $30 it's also a deal. Just trying to give you another option if you are looking for a bag that's in between the two Okeechobee Fats sizes. http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_58088_100011010_100000000_100011000_100-11-10

You should just be able to go to your nearest Shimano dealer and do an over the counter exchange. I have never had a problem getting a new rod even if it was obviously my fault. Also I have never brought in a receipt or the warranty paperwork. The worst that can happen is they say no. Good luck!

I don't know of any reel that can held and operated with the same hand. Instead of trying to design a one handed reel, I would make some sort of straps that would secure to the rod and his right arm. The straps would hold the pole to his right arm so he can reel with his left. For casting, his left hand could grab his right arm and pole to help swing the rod and cast. I think that this could work as long as he has enough strength/ control of his right arm to be able hold it still while reeling with his left. Even if he didn't, you could make something that he could rest his right arm on after he casts and while he's retrieving the lure. I sure you guys can figure something out so he can get back out on the water and enjoy fishing again.

IMO braided line diameter is more critical than the actual tensile strength rating. A bass probably wont break 20lb braid in open water but if its living in brush or heavy cover, you may need a bigger diameter to up the abrasion resistance. I would not worry about hurting your gear because a properly set drag will slip before rod or reel damage would occur. Example :If the reels drag is adjusted to say 10lbs, it does not matter if you had 15lb or 85lb line. The fish will start pulling drag after it overcomes the 10lbs of force protecting your rod.

$100 for a Symetre