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_tyler_wright_

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Everything posted by _tyler_wright_

  1. Whatever you do, keep that fron't deck piece as a stencil for your new piece of wood. Otherwise you might ruin alot of plywood.
  2. Hey guys, i've been looking ans looking and come come up with any jon to bass boat rebuild threads that are new. Could somebody give me a link of atleast just some pictures of some? And i can't find anywhere except for myjonboat.com where you have to buy their book on how to remove your bench seat properly. Could somebody help me out!
  3. Lookin good man! Keep us posted!
  4. Yeah you'll need a 3 way switch. You can get one at your auto parts store and get one. Very simple to hook up. Just know what wire has current going from it and know which one the current is going through
  5. Oh sorry didn't i didn't make myself clear. You can get some seat plates and seat pins to use on your seats and use the rivets to hole the plate down
  6. Well unless you want to put a hole in your seat so you can put some nuts on the other side of the boat you can drill i pilot hole and put some 1/2 inch rivets in it or whatver size you want
  7. Mine is a 1974 fisher with an older model 9.9 Johnson
  8. PM me the serial number and i'll try to find out who makes it.
  9. Haha that's so funny Just Add Water, i just read what you said and in the PM i sent him it is almost word for word what i told him. 2 great minds think alike lol
  10. Yes it get's more stable to a certain point. But under my deck is flotation foam which supports the extra weight. What I'm trying to say is you need to try to keep your lowest center of gravity when you built the sunk deck when at the same time it is adding stabilty. I can give you some pics if you want
  11. I built a sunk-in deck and floors and transom cover on my 1432 and it is VERY stabls. Not as stable as a 1436 but a whole lot more stable than when it was just me and some paddles in the boat.
  12. That is very nice. Great attention to detail. Now take her out fishing!
  13. Haha you just answered alot of future questions with that simple post. Thanks alot!
  14. Don't worry about the picture i think io got it figured out. I'm just waiting on the guy to call me back that has that boat
  15. Hmmm.. As far as i know you should be alright. But i would look and make sure you motor will be okay. Your carpet and fiberglass will be fine though...
  16. Haha yeah but that's where about a month down the road you decide it was stupid to buy it and can't sell it to anybody without lowering the price you bought it for about 50% lol... Been there, done that
  17. Well looks like you migth have messed up. Take the staples off the back, assuming you put staples, and see if the glue gives a little bit. If it does come off, sand the glue off good and put some poly on there and you should be just fine.
  18. Never heard of it, but if you decide to buy it inspect it VERY closely because sometimes plastic don't like the elements which means if you hit a stump at the slowest speed it might break the plastic. If you see what i'm saying
  19. Irrelevant, i have no idea how to answer your question, but what part of mississippi do you live?
  20. Man that thing looks good! How bout that new truck?
  21. See if you can take the carpet off without damaging the carpet. If you can't then it depands on how much glue you put on under the carpet wether or not it will keep water out of the wood. If anything you could put ALOT of scotch guard on it. Not sure if the scotch guard will work but it's a start
  22. I'm using just regular indoor/ outdoor carpet. It's got a kinda tough back to it, not the rubber stuff.
  23. Thank you VERY much! I thought i would have to use a heat gun or blow dryer and use it. But if i form it and don't get it glued down but for a couple more days, will the carpet flatten out again?
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