J Francho

That's my question too. None of my bass boats made much of a wake at when on plane.

Anchoring from the stern faces you downstream or downwind, and neither are ideal ways to present a bait.

I've had my stuff a lot longer, lol. AFW has a reasonable starter crimp kit at $20. Or you can go all the way up to a HiSeas for $130.

I like the flavored seltzer waters. Pack them, along with some ice packs in my Hobie cooler. I've tested completely full of ice sitting in the hot sun on my porch, and there were still ice cubes after two days. Sushi anyone?

This is THE deal.

Oh my goodness....

Bummer! Can you try to get a warranty exchange?

It won't matter a bit since it's stuck in the plastic. Use whatever to add weight. How much depends on wind and how fast you want it to sink. Personally, at 20', I'm drop shotting.

I've done this as well. Works nice when you want to switch between wacky and weedless, depending on the cover.

You didn't describe what power you are matching with what baits. YOu might be over powering the fish. I use AC Avid 6-3 MLXF and 6-3 MXF for tubes and do not have an issue with losing fish. I probably err a little on the heavy side for weights of the baits, and the rod rating. I also use straight fluoro. Much simpler than braid to a leader for a beginner.

6# Tatsu has always worked just fine for me.

Seems like we're talking about two different things: tubes or kick boats. Pros and cons to both.

That's fine. I'm good with fluoro. Get it? Yours is not the ONLY answer. Go get a root beer float.

You use mono, so no it isn't a good idea. You can if you use fluoro. I completely trust it. Caught over 30 fish on two seperate days last week, including this girl with 6# line I spooled up in 2018. I have a 1000 yard spool of 6# line, so I'm probably gonna change them all out soon. Just haven't had time, and I know and trust the product. Seaguar Tatsu, literally the best there is in my book.

More that isn't really debatable: In the end, fluoro and braid are less expensive than mono because they both last so much longer. Pretty sure I have 10 year old braid on a couple reels and have gone as long as 6 years with fluoro. Both are more expensive up front, but pay off in the long run.

You generally have to go over 60# to get decent protection. As was mentioned, that can kill the action. A tieable steel leader is an option as well. I've used Cortland Toothy Critter with success.

That's pretty light! I've crimped my own leaders from 80# and 100# for targeting northern pike.

Keen Newport H2O.

But wait! Everyone says fluoro is delicate and breaks easily when nicked, and you're using it in a harsh toothy situation. Another myth perpetuated. BTW, what diameter do you find prevents breakoffs from picks?

This especially well put. I'll go one further on the stretch bit. My largest brown trout (22 lbs.) was caught using a 4# Seaguar Blue Label leader, attached to a 6# Blue Label shot line, attached to 8# P-Line CXX. The attachments were all made with Raven 20# micro swivels using uni knots - 5 knots in total. The entire terminal rig is about 13' long, which is about as long as my centrepin float rod. Pretty sure this dispels the many points of failure, stretch ruins fluoro, or that it isn't for big fish. I doubt anyone encounters this extreme in bass fishing. Oh, the "bait" for this is a little bead, pegged just above the hook with a broken toothpick. Toothpicks don't harm your line either... For the OP, check your reel settings. Coiling doesn't cause backlashes. You can use KVD L&L to help with the issue, but really, a few casts and a fish or two mitigates the problem.

In most cases, yes. I fish straight fluoro on many of my set ups. There are several that are straight braid. I do carry and use leaders occasionally. There have been a very few occasions where I was not getting bit, while others in the boat were, so when in Rome... Other times, when fishing wood, want to be able to break off, without leaving a ton of line in the water or ripping the cover from lake, but still want minimal stretch that offers lightning fast hooksets. That's a good use case for braid and leader. I prefer actual leader material and use Seaguar Gold Label in 8 to 15# size.

I fish 3/4 tubes on a MLXF, so I'm the wrong guy to ask that, lol. I know- it's a quirk and not a recommendation. The rod did fine with weedless wacky so I think it will handle all that. I'd step it up for a finesse jig with a brush guard, but I bet you'd be fine with it using braid.

You can. But unless you really know what your doing, don't. Unless you plan on eating them, then it doesn't matter.

They only allow using theirs was my point.