J Francho

For wading, just one.

Let’s see some pics!

I’ve only had Mercs, that is the only brand I’ve used. I had Mark Croxten work one of my props - repair and cup - and he does great work.

No clue. I moved it to tackle. Makes most sense there.

I have dupes of SC AVS63MLXF and AVS63MXF. I use the ML for anything up to about 5/8 oz. and the M for up to an ounce. These probably sound heavy, and they are. This is for the primarily vertical DS I mostly use on the GL. If you are casting, obviously, a somewhat stouter rod is necessary. I have played with using a MLXF casting rig for DS. It's fine for somewhat shallow stuff - less than 10', but any deeper, it's far easier to flip open the bait and let it drop. A casting rig can work well for pitching, similar to this situation: https://www.bassresource.com/fishing/dropshot-bedding-bass.html As far as the rest of the gear goes, I find a 2500 size reel works well with the straight 6# Tatsu I prefer for this rig. I don't use any funny hooks or swivels either.

Trash Pandas!

How much torque is enough? Anyone willing to do a little test with me? Heh. "Hold this hook, and wait until I get a cast length of line out...." I don't disagree that there is more torque, and I definitely feel like there's more power with a longer rod, but I don't think it's as big a deal as it's made out to be. It's like the distance casting thing. My shortest rod casts the furthest. It's my topwater rod. I can tie the same bait on a 7' rod, and it won't go as far. I can't even use the same cast with the longer rod, so it's even more complicated than just rod length. It's more important to be able to adapt to what you have. Maybe that's why despite having a huge pile of rigs, I have very few specialized set ups. Outside of cranking and swimbaits, most of em can do anything within their weight range. I fished with a dude that said he couldn't throw a spinnerbait on a 6-8 rod, it had to be 6-9. Seriously, it must be miserable to be that focused on specifics.

Nope.

Seems like an aftermarket prop might be more expensive than an OEM prop. I bought a used prop years ago, to get me by while my good prop was being cupped and polished, and that became my spare. You might even be able to pick up an aluminum prop as a spare. Stainless are heavy.

Crazy story! He speared a wave at speed, which is how they got tore off. Water is a force of nature. I've been to a few tournaments on Oneida, Erie, and Ontario where some have made long runs and paid the price in gear.

Night/day before.

I'll add this tidbit: 8' rods are an absolute pain in the butt. I have four or five (one might be 7-11), and the care to move them around, inside the house, garage, into a rod locker, walking through a store, is orders of magnitude clunkier. I wouldn't be without them, but they're real bother. Not buying into the line pickup thing. By the math (a2 + b2 = c2) means .07' (less than an inch) difference, and that's not accounting for rod bend. I agree, it sure feels better using a longer rod to set the hook on a long cast, so there has to be something there, but I don't think it's line pickup. Some other reason exists for why. Could be my geometry is a bad representation.

I wish I still had my 18' Hyperlift. That boat was laid out well, and had fish mojo.

Catt's boat turns my screws. Love it every time he puts up a pic of it!

Took my fiance's son out in the Commander to catch his first bass on the City Dump. Third cast, stuck a nice one. They're all hanging in the grass around 12-15 FOW. Hardest part is waiting for the bait to get down there.

In the case of the Bullet, there is NO PLACE to hang an outboard without a setback. It's not a luxury, but a requirement.

And I was agreeing. Good point. My last boat was 25 years old, and insurance cared little about the age. It was in fact a higher premium due to the HP, and brand of the boat hull.

It's on the dash, like the trim gauge. 1. Two boats had jack plates - 18' Xpress 6" setback and a 22' Bullet 12" setback 2. I have no idea, doesn't really matter 3. Both were manual, which was fine. They boats that were set up for optimum performance for me, and left there. 4. Bob's 5. Yes. 2. I would be looking at a hydraulic because I will need to be able to raise and lower while running with the style of boat I'm looking at. I'd likely stick with Bob's because they work. This! Since my next boat will be a bay boat, and will go offshore in the Great Lakes, and see some lumpy water.

Agreed, not following the depreciation argument made. Either they aren't a good value used, or they don't hold their value. Can't be both. Everything takes an initial hit on resale, and it isn't the minute you drive off the lot, like many are quick to say. The usable life of a decent boat is decades, unlike cars, which seems like it's only a few years. This is clear from the term limits on boat loans verses car loans. I'd like to add that with all the different vessels I've owned, I never quit using the kayaks. They will always be something I enjoy and employ in my search for big fish. There's something about them. Another argument was made that you have to fish alone. I have three, and often go with others. No one has to settle for the back of the boat position either. There's a plethora of clubs and so many people are kayak fishing, there's plenty of opportunity to partner up. Just a couple more viewpoints on boats and kayaks.

We've ventured far enough into verboten territory.

Litter

In my collection, I have more 7 to 7-3 rods than anything else in MH and H. It's a comfortable length for most fishing.

I don't know. I had a canoe, rowboat, 14' tiller, 17' deep-v tiller, kayak, 18' aluminum bass boat, 22' fiberglass bass boat, then back to kayak. Looking at a 25' bay boat as my next and last boat. The vessel is just a tool to get you off shore. Decide how you want fish and the budget you are willing to set for it.

Grind it out. You'll catch some numbers, but keep working them and upgrading. Good luck!