J Francho

Okay, that helps. You're gonna hear a lot of, "don't buy a boat with 20 years of issues" advice. I think you know the caveats, buying used so I'll spare you. Do the obvious stuff: compression check documented, inspection by your mechanic, and a lengthy on the water test where you test every single function while in the water. In the water is important. You're looking for any hull damage or rot, weird handling on plane, any mechanical issues with the motor, steering, or throttle, and any issues with the switch gear. Livewell/plumbing issues are usually not too hard to fix, but sometimes difficult to locate. Last thing check the trailer, bearings and lights. Lights are an easy replace, but it's a bargaining chip. I've had a few used boats, one that was almost 30 years old. Aside from crummy gel coat on the top cap, it ran like the Millenium Falcon. Good luck, and post in the Show My Ride thread if you pick it up.

There’s rail mount rod holder from RAM and Scotty that are easy to find, but you’ll probably have to do the homework. Instead of mounting the rod holder to a rail on a boat, you’re mounting it to a chair.

Never had a boat?

Former smokers are often sensitive to the smoke and the odor, even at long distances.

It doesn’t. I cannot think of any position other than not attached to my truck that I could not see the trailer in one of my mirrors. Can you take a picture of it?

I’ve had a few receivers stolen, and caught someone trying to hook up to my boat once.

https://www.google.com/search?q=bank+rod+holders&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS871US872&oq=bank+rod+holder&aqs=chrome.0.0j69i57j0l6.4330j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Rapala Original F5

The current situation has had me getting my money's for my Prime membership, lol.

You can get them at West Marine, Home Depot, Lowes, UHaul, and online. I recommend the locking pins.

Yeah, I've trailered kayaks, same issue - small trailer and obscured view. I put a couple sticks with flags on the corners of the trailer. Problem solved there. I don't think this a small craft problem the OP is having, though.

Don't use steel. Cortland Toothy Critter is better choice. And I wouldn't call it a drop shot rig. It's more like a weight on the bottom live bait rig that has been used for generations. If you use an inexpensive sinker, the dropper can be mono, so you can break off if you hang up up without losing the hook. If it were me, I'd use a loop or snelled hook off the main line to allow some natural live bait movement. See this for the history, and rig: http://www.richz.com/fishing/articles/dropshot.html

Dredge line.

I don't think I've ever run into this. Can you explain? If the trailer is not one mirror, it's most certainly in the other. The only time I can think of where you can't see it, is if it was an extremely small trailer, like a popup camper, and a very wide and tall vehicle, like a truck with a cap or a van. Anyway, I have a sketchy back, and don't turn around. With a pickup, it isn't a problem. I am using the stock mirrors.

Who in their right mind would waste perfectly good bacon on a crawfish trap?

Jig

They look good, and they should work - hand tied is a plus. Wish I knew what hook they use. My Sieberts all have Owner hooks.

Rage Bug, Menace, Zoom Super Chunk, and any non boot tail frog. Yum Tiptoad has been what I’m using lately.

Get some brush jigs and arky jigs in 3/8 and 1/2 oz. find a chuck trailer you like. Pick out colors that look good to you, and get fishing.

It’s more about the trailer for me. Some skip better then others. Something with wide body works well. An Arky style head skips well for me when doing pitch skip casts.

Almost all my cranks are the same pattern: MS Am. Shad. I have some red craw color baits I throw in early spring, but for the most part the above works well when the cranking bite is on.

Any raw meat will do. We always used sunfish and perch carcasses left from the fillets. Bait goes inside a trap.