J Francho

Palomar or Uni when a Palomar is impractical will be best with braid.

What kind of braid? What rod? Are there grooves in the inserts? Is this the first time you've used braid?

Everything you ever wanted to know about the c-rig: http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1120348381. As far as DS from a boat, both stationary and dragging while on a drift. I often employ a drift sock, both in a boat and from my kayak.

Whatever you use, pull out the typical cast you make, plus 10 or so feet more and tape the spool. Reel in that line over the tape. Now your backlash can only go a cast worth of line. I like the idea of mono in the 12-15# range to learn.

True, but your only comparing two rods. When is the last time you caught a fish on just a rod? It up to you, the buyer to test the rod with the reel and line you intend to use to see if its balanced or not. The rod manufacturer may have already positioned the reel seat with balance in mind, or the split grip solves a balance issue on a particularly long handled rod, like a flipping stick. I'm not going to argue you with you here, since you are a TV star and obviously know more than me, but I will stand by my original statement that split rear grips are about weight, balance and cosmetics. On a entry level rod, it is probably about cosmetics, and there might be balance issues - but that is always going to be a problem with crappy gear. On a high end piece of gear, its going to be about functionality. On a custom rod, its going to be about whatever the customer wants. Don't agree? Ask a professional rod builder.

Balance would depend on the ENTIRE package - rod reel and line together. I own several split grip, solid grip rods and ones with no fore grips and split and solid rear grips, and none of them are garbage. Balance along with the blank has a lot to do with sensitivity.

I use many knots, but mostly Palomar and Uni knots. For spinnerbaits and buzz baits I use an improved clinch because its fast and simple to tie. Plus, break offs are pretty much a non issue using 15# P-line CXX as SOP for these baits.

Weight considerations, balance, and cosmetics.

I agree with that 100% Raul. Its more about hours of usage than anything else. I probably fish about 20-30 hours per week, and I'd think that is maybe average or slightly above average for most people here. Some reels get more use than others. It works for me.

I use a right hand retrieve for everything but pitching and flipping. For that I have two TD-X HSDL flipping reels that are left hand retrieve.

They appear to be similar to many other quality football jigs. I don't see why they'd be any better or worse than similar baits. Jigs catch fish, plain and simple.

P-Line 100% or XPS 100% FC are two reasonably priced FC lines. I do not like Flouroclear. It does not sink as fast as pure FC (since its a coated monofilament), and its the sink rate that I'm after. It also breaks off a lot easier.

I think you misunderstood Raul's sarcasm. Where he lives there no seasons, as he likes point out frequently, LOL. Anyway, there are times when a quick addition of oil is all that's necessary. I generally add oil to spool tips and spool bearings after every few trips. If a reel gets swamped or slopped up with green snot, especially the worm gear, I'll disassemble, clean, and relube that reel. Generally, I completely break down my reels once a year. Some get the full treatment more often through out the year.

Are they wind knots? Braid can twist, despite its inherent low memory, and wind knots can be a problem.

It depends on the weight of the bait. A small Pop-R is easier to throw on spinning gear, but I have no problem chucking a Chug Bug on BC gear.

This going to have a lot more to do with location, as the biggest bags from Maine will invariably smaller than the biggest bags from So Cal. or elsewhere. My biggest "5-fish bag" was rec. fishing for LMB in a small bay off Lake Ontario. 23 lbs., including this 6-2 lunker. All on a jig .

Temperature itself isn't very useful. Finding a trend in data from readings taken over a longer stretch of time may be slightly more useful.

The bait size I use changes based on what the fish are biting that day, not the season.

I use dressed treble hooks for this. Cast, settle, sweep up fast, settle, repeat. I haven't tried these newer vertical jigging spoons - I thought they were for deep salt water fishing. Hopkins Shorty spoons are another option for a more vertical presentation.

The steel and tungsten weights are all steel alloys. The problem with calling the True Tungsten brand weights "steel" is that its confusing since Bullet brand makes a lighter product labeled as "Steel." I use both brands of weights, and each has its advantages. Tungsten literally means "heavy rock," and due to both its higher density and smaller profile, a comparable tungsten weight will sink in the water column faster than lower density weights. They are a great way to balance a heavier weight with a smaller profile plastic. Ever fish a 4" worm with a 3/4 oz. worm weight? Tungsten makes more sense here. I also use the steel weights for the exact opposite reason. I may want a slower fall with a very large profile bait, and the steel allows me to match up the size. Another good reason to fish steel is in very snaggy situations. There are some spots I fish locally where you'd be better off using rolls of quarters to weight your rig than tungsten, since it ultimately save you a few dollars, LOL. In New York State, there is a ban on the sale of lead, due to issues with waterfowl, specifically loons. I still use lead weights, as I have a pile leftover from the ban many years ago. Lead is soft, and therefore somewhat pliable which also makes it ideal for fishing chunky rock snag fest areas. Popping the line like a guitar string before the first guide, several times, will usually free your bait from the jam up. You'll also see where the weight got caught, if you get it back. There are some cited side benefits to tungsten, specifically that fact that it transmits more feel back through the blank and that it slides around in the fish's mouth making hooksets easier. While both may be absolutely true, I don't see what advantage either offers. How much do really need to feel for it to be an advantage? For me, inanimate obstructions go bump. Fish are either nearly undetectable, smash your bait, or somewhere in between. Any way they strike - they are alive, and totally different than rocks and weeds. That's my take on it, take it or leave it

I use DS horizontally, sort of. A side effect of have the weight below the bait is that you can impart movement to the bait while keeping it pinned in place. I've DS'd with everything from little 3" baits up to 12" worms in pads. Obviously, use suitable rods and line for the cover. Don't be afraid to experiment. I had great luck "cannonballing" a Super Fluke in new pads for prespawn fish using a 3/4 oz. weight to keep it pinned in place. Its also a great tool for bedding bass. One final thing I do with it is drifting in Lake Ontario for smallmouth. Tubes and football jigs are the usual, but a DS helps keep your bait off the zebes and quagga as you drift across a shoal, ledge, or hump. I've even heard about people using x-tra long drop lines for suspended fish. It's not my primary go to rig, but it is effective and can be applied to solve specific issues during finicky bites.

Mine came yesterday, already caught fish on it. Thanks Bobby!

My PB was on a t-rigged 10" worm. This year's season's best was on a grass jig.

I remove the split rings and use a Duolock snap.

RM and L&L couldn't be more different from each other. I've used RM for years and years, but after trying L&L just once, was converted. It has nothing to do with the age of the line either, as I initially treated brand new line. It is one of those products that REALLY does what it says it does. That it is non toxic to the environment is a huge plus. That said, I still buy RM, but not for treating the line. RM on cork handles, cleaning the guide rings, and treating the interior of your reels still works well.