J Francho

Sounds like you'll have fun. Ask him what he'd like you to throw and where. I'll bet he's more interested in catching fish, and the more the merrier. If he's really working some shoreline structure or a dock, and you can't get in there, just keep a jig or t-rig worm and work the deeper water. That way, you'll be complimenting his approach. If you have to fish "used" water, try something a bit smaller, subtle in those spots.

Try to carpool with your boater, and discuss places and tactics. Work as a team. We always keep all our fish, and only cull after we both limit. Check your rules on that last one. Most importantly, have fun, and if you bet back boated, just remind your boater that you're a team.

That synthetic looks pretty good. Thanks, I'll be trying it out on the next batch.

Great, I'll build a fire, and you bring the books : This is where censorship starts.

Nice work, Dave. I was able to dig up my copy of Our Native Fishes by John R. Quinn, 1990 Countryman Press. Quinn used to be editor in chief at Tropical Fish Hobbyist magazine, and was considered one the foremost experts on keeping native species in aqariums. Two snippets: About the only surprise to me was the mention of dim lighting. I imagine they may be skittish at first, but will adapt well, like most other sunfishes, to aquarium life. Good Luck, and take some pictures!

Excellent camera work and nice double!

I have two spinning reels that I use for bass fishing. Since I have extra spools, I have one with 20# Power pro, another with 15# Power Pro, another with 8# FC, and another with 6# FC. Braid is great when in low visibility water, and FC for those tough clear waters. You can also use a FC leader with the braid as well - just use a uni to uni connection.

Simple Green for just about everything. Naphtha for the tough stuff, but be careful, its flammable and has nasty fumes. You need to find a suitable place to dispose of it as well. DO NOT simply pour solvents down the drain.

For slip floats, Rod'n Bobb's pre rigged system is nice. I like Thill Wagglers for windy days, and Bett's Pears for float and fly.

Kinami are REAL Senkos - there's just 7 in the bag instead of ten. They are made by GYCB. I believe that part of the company is run by Gary's son.

Nah, they're just dumping snakeheads up here. >

If you go the aerated cooler route, then by all means, use a livewell treatment. If you go with my shipping method, DO NOT ADD ANYTHING BUT THE WATER THEY CAME FROM.

Join the Immodium Pro Staffers ;D

The term "F1" means first generation from the crossing of the two strains. The next generation would be refered to as F2 and so on. This isn't reserved for just hybrids. take two fish from the wild, spawn them, and their progeny will be "F1".

If you use a floating worm, the shaky head doesn't fall over. I like Berkley Power Shaky Worms, and Roboworm Straight Worms.

Is it a team format, or are non boaters competing against eachother? How many fish are weighed in?

In general terms, I'll use the DS to either get the bait in the zone and keep it there. That means either fishing deep and vertical, or casting out, and keeping the bait in place while adding some action. The shaky head is a slow, horizontal approach, and the bait stays closely related to the bottom, in contrast to the DS, where the bait is anywhere you want it. I generally use this when fish are scattered on a flat or ledge, and aren't taking larger offerings. And just so you're clear, you can fish a DS horizontally, slowly bringing it back to the boat, and you can fish a shaky rig vertically, popping below the boat in deeper water. As with any rig, each is a solution to the problem of how to get the bait to the fish, and entice them to bite. Try to imagine all the variables of where you are fishing, and determine what bait will be the best for the job.

There are some pretty big herring fed girls that have been reported caught in Mass. Bigger than most of the surrounding waters where alewife are the forage.

Give me a the situation, and I can answer. Otherwise, its the same as asking jig or t-rig, or whatever. I use them both, and both are sure fire fish catchers.

Go to a local tropical fish store, and have them save a bag (two bags is better since they are spiny little devils) and a shipping cooler. You want a "full box" size, not a half. You only need as much water as it takes to cover their backs - about 4" - the rest is a air. You quickly grab the top of the box bag, capturing as much air as possible, and twist the bag. Tie a slip knot around the base of the twisted section with a rubber band, and fold the twisted section in half. Then make several wraps with the rubber band to lock in the air. You might want to add a couple more rubber bands as insurance. Close the box, and keep it somewhere dark and cool. DO NOT OPEN IT UP AND PEEK!!! When you get to class, open the box, and immediately net the fish, placing them in the destination tank. This routine is somewhat different than the typical acclimation process when you buy fish at the pet store, but works. I've shipped fish air freight all over the country with less than 1% mortality this way. We've also done this to transport pygmy sunfish from the NJ Pine Barrens to our facility in Rochester, NY. Yes, we had special permits for this. Here is the science behind it. There is plenty of oxygen in air trapped in the bag to support two small fish for more than 24 hours. As the fish respirate they create CO2 and Ammonia. You probably have learned that ammonia is toxic to the fish. Here is the catch: as the CO2 levels increase, the pH level decreases. As pH decreases, so does the ill effects of ammonia. Pretty neat? Now, when you open the bag, the water will immediately be exposed to fresh air, and CO2 will leave the water, and O2 will go in, raising the pH, and increasing the toxicity of the ammonia. This is why you forgo any temperature/water chemistry acclimation, and get them into the tank as quick as possible. Its easier to deal with the stress of a sudden change into clean water, than a sudden change to toxic water, with a gradual change to healthy water again. One last warning. I'm not up on my Centrarchid behaviors when in confinement, and know next to nothing about warmouth, other than they look like our rockies. If they are aggressive to each other, you will want to box them up seperately, but add them to the tank together. If you have any other questions, or need explanation, PM me with your number, and I'll call you and describe the process over the phone.

A small loop of string through the tip top and a hook eye in my basement works fine for me.

I find that's very true for me the past few seasons, since becoming addicted to flipping mats. In spring though, I do well with a pegged 10" worm in the pads.

My answer was too short above. A couple of differences between pegging and not pegging. The fish can take the bait, and not detect the weight when it grabs on the fall. Popping the bait seems to work better with a free sinker, dragging with it pegged works better. Add a glass bead to a free sinker weight for sound. If you use a buoyant worm with a free weight, the worm stands on end at rest. There isn't any right or wrong, except in the case of pads, lay downs, or extra heavy cover. Then its pegged for me.

I generally run free, unless working pads or really thick slop.

Bought one a couple of years ago, never caught a single fish on it. Gave it to some kids shore fishing. They probably caught a lunker with it.