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Paul Roberts

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Everything posted by Paul Roberts

  1. That one's easy: The top colors and patterns DO help catch bass!!!! That window dressing on top sells the lure to the angler, so that he will take it where the bottom finish can catch the bass!
  2. Bass will slurp in the whole worm. The hook only needs to extend no more than a 1/3 the length. Depending on shank length of hook style you choose: 4' #1 6" #1/0 or 2/0 7" #2/0 8" #3/0 9" #3/0 or 4/0 10' #4/0 or 5/0 For slim worms I like a standard worm hook. For fat worms I like a wide-gap.
  3. Luhr Jensen cranks are very good. They are designed by Tom Seward.
  4. It's one of the hollow-bodied swimbaits like the BassTrix. The Bass Magic is made by Luck-E-Strike.
  5. You do not NEED a lot of worms configurations, but different options can help at different times. Every winter I go through and decide what I can get rid of to lighten my load. I just went through my worm box with a critical eye again and found little (two worm configurations) I was willing to remove one a recent whim and the other a holdover from a really great daylessseee30 years ago). Admittedly there are some potential redundancies, but a lure box evolves over time and not only does each lure have a niche but some simply get my adrenaline pumping when I tie one on. The separate compartments help keep worms from bleeding into each other and make all easy to see and get at. So, here's my worm box exposed!! My worm box is a 10x7 6-compartment poly box and weighs 1# 14oz. ready to fish. Compartment 1: Low density stick-worms for a slow fall. I fish them weightless, often wacky-rigged. I have them in two sizes (4, 6), and two colors an orange for low visibility conditions (so the bass, and especially I, can see them), and a pale translucent for very high visibility conditions when bass are apt to reject the bright opaque worm. Compartment 2: High density stick-worms for a faster fall rate and/or deeper water, also fished weightless, often wacky-rigged. Again, two sizes (4, 6), and two colors a dark (opaque-ish), and a pale translucent. Compartment 3: Black 6 swimming-tail worm for darker days and active fish. These worms trigger bass really well and can be fished relatively fast with a bullet sinker. I use them for active bass where only a worm can go through algae and heavy cover. I've also discovered a couple neat triggering strategies to sighted fish with these. I also have in this compartment, in a plastic bag to protect them from bleeding, 8 black/pearl swimming-tail for flipping dark shady hides in dingy water that subtle flash is a deadly trigger. Later in the year I'll add some 9 swimming-tails for warm summer water where there are large bass. Large lures do select and attract larger bass. In the past I've targeted and caught larger than usual bass using worms up to 13. Compartment 4: Black straight tails. I have two: First, a very slim and subtle 6 for educated and/or skittish fish under darker conditions. Second, a 6 heavy bulky worm that can cast a mile to spooky or distant fish. This one could be interchangeable with the stick worms but they are a holdover from my youth andwellI couldn't not have them there if just for the memories (the pulse of adrenaline I get when I tie one on). Compartment 5: Translucent worms, both 6 straight and 6 ribbon-tails, same as Compartments 2&3 but translucent. I believe they out-fish opaques in high vis. waters. Compartment 6: Finesse worms. I have semi-translucent, slim 6 straight tails, and semi-translucent slim 6 swimming-tails. I believe these out-fish larger opaque worms for skittish/ pressured fish especially in high visibility conditions. They land quietly and are subtle in the water. The slim bodies allow me to fish a Texas-rig with lighter line. The extra kick of the swimming-tails can be a great trigger that works on the drop, or when either swum or accelerated. Do I catch fish on all of them? Yes. They are selected for conditions, mostly. OK, applying the 80/20 ruleIf I had to choose one worm to cover the most circumstances, it would be a 6 semi-translucent straight-tail. A sandwich baggie full of these and I'd be set to go. Thank goodness I have a large back-pack so I don't have to just bring a baggie! No, 4-inchers?, you ask? They're in my finesse jig box. But that's another whole box of stories.
  6. Finally someone jumped on this hole in the market: http://www.bringitbaits.com/scripts/prodList.asp Up to 8/0 and 1/2oz. As for the odor: I let them air out for a week and the odor has dissipated. Since it's a horizontally fished bait I doubt the remaining scent will be an issue.
  7. I really like the Mango jig by Nichols.
  8. JnP =Pork Swimming =twister SB =twister
  9. Here are some basics: Basic controls are depth and speed. You control them by jig weight, line diameter, and trailer bulk/buoyancy. Start with proper line diam for the given situation (depth, clarity, and cover, mostly). Then decide how deep and how fast or slow you need the jig to run at. This will take some experience as there are many permutations possible. Want to slow a given combination down or speed it up? Add a bulky trailer, or trim it down. Choose a head style for the cover you are fishing: Cone-shape for weeds, bulbous (Arky) for wood, football for rock. Choose a hook matched to your line strength. Don't go Flippin with 50# braid with a light wire hook. Don't try to stick a big bass with a heavy iron on 8# mono. Choose a color that either mimics (imitation is impossible) prey, usually fish or crayfish. Or, just choose one you LOVE and fish it with confidence.
  10. I'd do some reading on these first, and then try one or two. Then ask a more targeted question.
  11. I bought -ONE! I fish topwater jumpbaits a lot. Sometimes bass just can't be coaxed to break the surface. MAYBE this will help. But I'm not convinced -yet. Since it is a slow sinker it may operate as a shallow jerkbait as well. And maybe it'll be relegated to the has-been pile. Most videos mean little. There are a lot of waters and conditions out there that can make any lure look good. I dis-liked the Rapala video. I don't need the hype, just the information. And, better, some time on the water with that bait.
  12. I invested in a couple high quality scales made by Chatillon 20 years ago. They are still perfect. Easily calibrated and solid. But not cheap. I have the IN10 and IN30. The key to accuracy regardless of price is in calibration, and re-checking every now and then. I use known weights -like dumbbells and check at 1#, 2#, 4#,6#, etc... A really good scale should not deviate at different weights. If it does, say at high and low end (common in lower priced scales) than you should know how much and make mental adjustments.
  13. Thanks, JOF. I've make my belly weighted hooks a bit more complicated. I use lead wire, tied on with tying thread, then epoxy. More durable that way. Cheaper than buying them at this point. It's only a matter of time until someone jumps on this and they'll become readily available. Unless the BassTrix etc... craze wears off. Where I live I'm not expecting many bites -just looking for a few big ones. We'll see.
  14. I have the 6-1/2" LuckEstrikes and 5/0 is too short, I think. That's a lot of plastic, even semi-hollow as they are. Don't want 'em balling up at the point. I'm going to have to make my own I guess. I'm looking at a Kahle-style in 8/0 which I'll re-bend and belly weight. Wish me luck...
  15. I fish Sawhill/Walden, Pella, and a few others. I fish from shore and from a float tube. Feel free to post to chat.
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